Breakaway Switch — How to Hook Up the Wire?

[21Airstream]

Originally Posted by TRizzuti

I replaced one of the screws on my license plate with an eyebolt and hook the trailer brake switch to that. Most campers who notice it think it's a great idea.

+1 I did the same thing.

[John Geisen]

So I don't understand. What is wrong with routing the breakaway cable through the chains. If the hitch fails you catch the trailer with the chains. If the chains fail the breakaway switch activates. Isn't that how it is supposed to work? -John

[rmkrum]

Most people anchor the breakaway cable to one of the eyes on the hitch receiver along with the chains not a good practice.

The reason for the separate eyebolt in the license plate mount for the breakaway cable is that sometimes hitch receivers and their frames break off the tow vehicle. That means the chains don't catch anything, and if the breakaway cable is not anchored to some other part of the tow vehicle the switch does not function, and the trailer is now free to kill other people. The breakaway cable should not be anchored to the hitch receiver structure because of that. Besides, for me it's easier to reach the top left eyebolt in the license plate holder above the bumper step than crawl under to put the cable around the vehicle frame cross member.

It's just safer and easier to use a stainless steel eyebolt for the breakaway cable. I don't remember who came up with the idea, but it's a darn good one, and I use it...

[Overloaded]

Originally Posted by John Geisen

So I don't understand. What is wrong with routing the breakaway cable through the chains. If the hitch fails you catch the trailer with the chains. If the chains fail the breakaway switch activates. Isn't that how it is supposed to work? -John

Two reasons for this. The first happened to my uncle, his breakaway cable somehow got pinched in the chain. When leaving a gas station, making tight turn chain pulled breakaway out, in the middle of intersection. We found flat spot in cable where it was pinched. Second reason; if chain can pinch the cable in a turn, it could sever cable in two if safety chain were needed to catch trailer. This may cause breakaway to not activate.

[blkmagikca]

About 4 or 5 years ago I bought a coiled breakaway switch Camping World. They now sell the cable with the breakaway switch - http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...4-length/57847 The coiled cable keeps the wire from getting tangled.

[thiel]

Originally Posted by blkmagikca

About 4 or 5 years ago I bought a coiled breakaway switch Camping World. They now sell the cable with the breakaway switch - http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...4-length/57847 The coiled cable keeps the wire from getting tangled.

I have one of those cables. Works great. Available on Amazon.

[Roger S]

I wrote a detailed article for the Sept 2015 issue of Airstream Life that explains the ins and outs of breakaway switch safety. Some highlights to consider:
1) Do NOT weave breakaway cable through chains - they can never activate if needed.
2) Do NOT attach breakaway cable to the same hitch loops on your tow vehicle where your chains go - if there is a breakaway and sudden jolt on the chains, it could cause the hitch loops to snap or break (and they DO), and the breakaway connection to come free and never activate your brakes.
3) Do NOT use the aftermarket coiled breakaway cables - they can stretch beyond the fully extended length of your chains and never activate your brakes if your chains stay connected to your trailer.
4) Ensure that your breakaway switch will activate BEFORE your chains are pulled tight - if there is a hitch/ball failure you want the brakes to drag your trailer (and you) to a stop rather than having a 7500 pound monster breathing down your neck out of control.
5) Contrary to a previous post, Dexter designs their brake systems so that a fully energized brake(s) cannot lock up the trailer's wheels above 30mph.

Stay safe.
...Roger

[WhereStream]

Thanks, Roger (and others).

This is very helpful.

[Rich W]

I agree with you on not attaching the cable to the hitch but a brief search of the Internet says otherwise. Of course, if it's on the Internet......

I have always attached the cable so that the chains must fail before it engages the trailer brakes. There is very little room between the hitch and trailer chains. A sharp turn might engage the brakes if I clip to either side of the TV. There is nothing between the sides and the hitch except the hitch and spare tire. In the event the hitch ball breaks off the tongue should drop to the crossed chains. The umbilical should still be attached and activate the brakes when I slow down. Even if the umbilical breaks off, with the tongue on the chains I still have some degree of control in stopping, albeit not a sudden, emergency stop. (my thinking, untested)

On the other hand, if the brakes engage before the chains fail, the sudden stop of the trailer could break the slots that hold those chains to the hitch. Where I might have had some degree of control before, now there is none, the trailer is free but yes, the brakes are engaged.

Personally, I prefer my way.

-------Internet brief search results--------
State of California: https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/?1dmy&urile=wcmath:/dmv_content_en/dmv/pubs/dl648/dl648pt12

Breakaway switches are also required for any trailer having a gross weight of 1500 pounds or more and manufactured after December 31, 1955. They are designed to activate trailer brakes if the tow vehicle becomes separated from the trailer. One end of the breakaway switch is attached to an electrical switch on the trailer frame and the other end is looped around a stationary hitch component on the tow vehicle. If the two vehicles become separated, the cable pulls a pin inside the breakaway switch and applies full power from the trailer battery to the trailer brakes.

UK pdf for caravans, endorsed by several organizations:
http://www.al-ko.com/shop/media/uploads/NCC_breakaway_cable_advice.pdf.pdf
Where a designated
attachment point is
provided on the towbar:
Either:
a) Pass the cable through the attachment point and clip it back on itself
Or:
Attach the clip directly to the designated point (if approved by the Mfg.)

Where no designated attachment point has been provided on the towbar:
Loop the cable around the neck of the towball.

[ManCave]

Also, make sure your trailer battery is fully charged before traveling. If the battery is drained or disconnected and the umbilical separates, the brakes will not activate.
Most people assume the TV will charge the battery as you drive, but this is not always the case.

[Tiffin]

my question is if you pull out breakaway cable and leave it off fore a couple hours, this will drain you house batteries. Can someone answers this question. This is on 2018 Flying cloud tsk

[nvestysly]

Originally Posted by Tiffin

my question is if you pull out breakaway cable and leave it off fore a couple hours, this will drain you house batteries. Can someone answers this question. This is on 2018 Flying cloud tsk

Yes, it will drain your batteries. I see no need to ever pull the plunger out on the breakaway switch unless you are testing the system.

A friend of ours unwittingly pulled the plunger out every time he disconnected the Airstream from the tow vehicle. He was a newbie and didn't realize the ramifications of pulling the plunger out. The way he "tied" his breakaway cable to the tow vehicle necessitated that he unplug the switch and he simply left it unplugged until he hooked up the tow vehicle next time. If he was plugged into shore power he didn't know anything was wrong. It was only when he boondocked a few nights and he wondered why his batteries were dead, and I mean DEAD, every morning. Pulling the breakaway switch plunger on his double-axle trailer drew right at 10A!

[rmkrum]

I installed a stainless steel short shank 1/4-20 threaded eye bolt in place of one of the license plate screws with a fender washer backing it up and a nylock self-locking nut holding it on.

Buys me two things: Improved theft resistance for the license plate, and a point to attach the breakaway cable that is not part of the hitch assembly.

It has been know to happen that the hitch assembly either works loose, breaks, or becomes deranged in some manner, and the chains, ball, and all depart company with the TV. If the breakaway cable is connected to some other point on the TV, it has a better chance to work. Besides, it's now up higher where it is easier to verify that I connect and disconnect it properly...without having to crawl under the truck...

Not my original idea, but I disremember which forum member came up with the idea some time ago.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by WhereStream

Can anyone please advise how the wire should be connected to the hitch?

Here's what my dealer recommended. Not claiming it's bible....
He unplugged the battery end (I know) made a loop through the safety chain loop on the hitch. He then made a large knot in the cable so it didn't touch the ground (It's long) and then plugged it back to the battery switch.
I've changed it somewhat by adding a carabiner to the end, then I make the loop knot (just a large overhand knot, maybe 12").

I've considered replacing it with a coily one, but this works for me.

[Roger S]

On page2 of this post I replied and referenced an article I wrote for Airstream Life (Sep 2015) in which I did a ton of research with trailer manufacturers, the California Highway Patrol, DMV, brake controller manufacturers, axel (brake) manufacturers, and more. The disparity of information was amazing, but a few things are clear:
1) You do NOT want to weave your breakaway cable through the tow chains. (The brake cable must do its job independent of the chains.)
2) You do NOT want your breakaway cable attached to the same body loop that your chain hooks attach to - and certainly NOT to one of the chain hooks. It must go to a separate point on the tow vehicle's body. (Should the loop(s) on your frame break, the cable will come free and be useless.)
3) You do NOT want your cable to be longer than your chains. (Should the ball or hitch fail and your trailer falls back on the chains, you want the brakes to engage immediately. You don't want an out-of-control 6500 pound trailer breathing down your neck - better if it drags the trailer and the tow vehicle to a stop. A good reason for NOT using those springy-expandable after-market cables.)
4) At road speed, your trailer brakes are designed to not cause trailer wheels to lock up. (per Dexter)
5) Pulling out your brake cable is a great thing to do if you are on a hill, forgot to put in your chocks, and your trailer begins to roll. But, do replace it once your trailer (and you) is settled.
--
Hopefully you will never need to call into action any of these points, but it is prudent to be properly set up!
Roger

[DreamStreamr]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

I installed a stainless steel short shank 1/4-20 threaded eye bolt in place of one of the license plate screws with a fender washer backing it up and a nylock self-locking nut holding it on.

It has been know to happen that the hitch assembly either works loose, breaks, or becomes deranged in some manner, and the chains, ball, and all depart company with the TV.

+1 here. And yes, a friend with a big 2500 TV dropped factory receiver and trailer both, without warning. Had the breakaway cable been attached to the chains or hitch the trailer's brakes wouldn't have engaged. Pretty simple fix, despite Calif and UK mistaken attempts at regulating this.

[featherbedder]

I was always under impression if brake away plunger pulled activated brakes and with fully engaged for time would fry magnets in brake system then loss of brakes. Some one w/knowledge not some one that is not expert please say if true or untrue w/facts. A few yrs ago some one pulled mine on equip. trailer and did fry magnets.

[Roger S]

Featherbedder... The electromagnetic coils will get hot, but would most likely not "fry." They are designed to take the batteries' load, and the batteries would run down before the coils were damaged. However, if you were plugged into shore power (i.e., constantly charging the batteries) it is possible that long-term damage could occur. Consider also situations where you are going down long endless grades where you are constantly applying the brakes - the coils are being energized similarly for long periods of time and are designed to take this kind of continuous use without failing. R