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Old 10-16-2014, 02:35 PM   #1
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Breakaway cable

Just purchased a new 2015 F-250. Trying to find a place to place to mount a eyebolt for the breakaway cable with not having to drill a hole. Any ideas out there?? Does not have to be an eyebolt.
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Old 10-16-2014, 03:31 PM   #2
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I put my eye bolt in the license plate bolt location, with a fender washer and nut on the back, so it won;t pull through. Works good, and no holes to drill.
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Old 10-16-2014, 03:37 PM   #3
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Most folks that I know hook it to one of the chains up close to where they hook on to the receiver.

I suppose you could put a small hook on the cable and hook it to the receiver.
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Old 10-16-2014, 04:02 PM   #4
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I don't know this and I should: is the break away cable suppose to engage the breaks if
1) the trailer disconnects from the hitch but is still connected to the TV with the safety chains
2) only engages if the trailer is completely free from the TV (chains and hitch have broken)?



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Old 10-16-2014, 04:03 PM   #5
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I like the license place idea. Some people will jam the cable (with an appropriately sized thing attached so it doesn't slip out) in the trunk or door to their truck's cap.

The problem with attaching this cable to any part of the receiver or hitch assembly is that if the hitch or receiver fall off (not at all impossible) the emergency brakes will not be triggered.
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Old 10-16-2014, 04:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landrum View Post
I don't know this and I should: is the break away cable suppose to engage the breaks if
1) the trailer disconnects from the hitch but is still connected to the TV with the safety chains
2) only engages if the trailer is completely free from the TV (chains and hitch have broken)?



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I would want the brakes to engage if anything went wrong. If the trailer remains attached to your TV by the chains, braking the TV would cause the trailer to plow into the TV. Unfortunately, if the trailer remains attached by the chains, it may not "pull the plug" on the emergency brake actuator.
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Old 10-16-2014, 04:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBWELL View Post
I put my eye bolt in the license plate bolt location, with a fender washer and nut on the back, so it won;t pull through. Works good, and no holes to drill.
This is the best method. We have done it this way. Thank goodness, never has been needed. The cable needs to be attached to the vehicle to have the break-away function as designed.
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Old 10-16-2014, 04:39 PM   #8
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We use a stainless steel carabiner (S-Biner, a few bucks at Lowes) that clips into existing holes on the underside of our Silverado bumper. Couldn't be simpler. Click image for larger version

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Old 10-16-2014, 05:16 PM   #9
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Hate to tell you this, but in a bad accident, like where the Airstream rolls and takes the trucks with it .3 seconds later, the chains break or the hooks straighten OUT (ask me how I know!). You may want to replace those chains and hooks with better quality ones that the ones that came from the factory ... or not ... the breakaway switch SHOULD stop an upright trailer from carooming all over the road.

So do you want the break AWAY cable to go off if the Airstream pops off the ball but is still stuck on by the chains? Yes I think it's preferable to get the big "jerked to a stop" signal from the trailer.

Mine, I've hooked to the bumper too. But what are the odds that the bumper could fall off? At the same time as the hitch? OK nothing is perfect, but best practice is still best practice.

BTW I just realized I haven't TESTED my breakaway switch lately. Thanks for adding to my Saturday chore list.

Luv ya'all, Paula
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Old 10-16-2014, 07:17 PM   #10
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Break away cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by terryV View Post
Most folks that I know hook it to one of the chains up close to where they hook on to the receiver.



I suppose you could put a small hook on the cable and hook it to the receiver.

The cable should be hooked to a anchorage that is independent of the chains, hitch head and hitch structure. The idea is to have brake activation in the event any component of the hitch line should fail. We use tabs (holes) in the bumper support framing but I really like the license plate eyebolt idea.
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Old 10-16-2014, 07:47 PM   #11
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I like the idea of the breakaway activating even if the chains stay attached. Mine is too long to do that as it is now. I guess the trick would be to adjust it to just the right length so that it pulls the plug if the coupler releases but not so long that it pulls in a sharp turn.
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:23 AM   #12
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I like the idea of the breakaway activating even if the chains stay attached. Mine is too long to do that as it is now. I guess the trick would be to adjust it to just the right length so that it pulls the plug if the coupler releases but not so long that it pulls in a sharp turn.
And that, FollySteve, is indeed the trick! Short enough but not too short!
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:49 AM   #13
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My '06 F-250 had a separate hanger above and to the left of the hitch for this purpose. I'd be surprised if Ford is no longer putting them on.
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Old 10-18-2014, 09:17 AM   #14
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The breakaway cable should not be attached to any part of the hitch receiver. I had originally swapped out one of the bumper bolts on my TV for a stainless steel eyebolt. However, after having issues with the OEM bumpers on the TV, I replaced the bumpers with a set from Iron Bull, and attached shackles to which I clip the breakaway cable. The bumpers BTW are made of 3/16" steel plate and are bolted to the frame.

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Old 10-18-2014, 09:48 AM   #15
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Our 2015 F-250 has a small hole in the bumper next to the plate, so we put a carabiner in it and attach the breakaway cable to that device. Due to the dark colors, the attached photo is not very clear, but should communicate the general setup. Also, you will need to mentally rotate the photo clockwise 90 degrees.
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Old 10-19-2014, 07:33 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkmagikca View Post
The breakaway cable should not be attached to any part of the hitch receiver. I had originally swapped out one of the bumper bolts on my TV for a stainless steel eyebolt. However, after having issues with the OEM bumpers on the TV, I replaced the bumpers with a set from Iron Bull, and attached shackles to which I clip the breakaway cable. The bumpers BTW are made of 3/16" steel plate and are bolted to the frame.

Wow, those are certainly hell-for-stout bumpers. How much do they weigh?

I had a winch bumper made from 1/8th" steel once, and I thought that was heavy.
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:32 AM   #17
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terryV - A bit of history that led up to these bumpers. .

I was at a rally where I was parked on lush grass just as rain stopped. In trying to get to my allocated spot, I got stuck. The host had a farm tractor and an appropriate strap. However, the TV had no tow hooks, so he wrapped the strap around the middle section of the front bumper and hauled me with the AS to the designated parking spot - about 100 feet or so from where I was stuck. Unknown to me was that while the bumper face was metal, the backing was all plastic, and it cracked. Before long while I was driving, the plastic was flapping in the wind. When I priced replacement OEM bumpers, the cost was just slightly less than getting the Iron Bull ones.

The bumpers were shipped in on a pallet. It took 4 guys to attach the front one - they are welded 3/16" steel plate - no piece is bent or curved, the whole bumper is flat plate cut and welded to shape. Since the front bumper had provision for a winch, I bought a 12,000 lb winch and had it installed. The TV is only a 2WD, so the winch ensures if I get stuck again I can haul myself out. I also found a neat stainless steel flip-up cover that holds the front license plate.

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Old 10-19-2014, 10:45 AM   #18
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terryV - A bit of history that led up to these bumpers. .

I was at a rally where I was parked on lush grass just as rain stopped. In trying to get to my allocated spot, I got stuck. The host had a farm tractor and an appropriate strap. However, the TV had no tow hooks, so he wrapped the strap around the middle section of the front bumper and hauled me with the AS to the designated parking spot - about 100 feet or so from where I was stuck. Unknown to me was that while the bumper face was metal, the backing was all plastic, and it cracked. Before long while I was driving, the plastic was flapping in the wind. When I priced replacement OEM bumpers, the cost was just slightly less than getting the Iron Bull ones.

The bumpers were shipped in on a pallet. It took 4 guys to attach the front one - they are welded 3/16" steel plate - no piece is bent or curved, the whole bumper is flat plate cut and welded to shape. Since the front bumper had provision for a winch, I bought a 12,000 lb winch and had it installed. The TV is only a 2WD, so the winch ensures if I get stuck again I can haul myself out. I also found a neat stainless steel flip-up cover that holds the front license plate.

Cool. Any idea how much net weight you added to your TV when you did this?
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Old 10-19-2014, 02:13 PM   #19
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No, no idea.
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Old 10-19-2014, 03:10 PM   #20
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No, no idea.
If it were me, I'd be concerned about how much of the vehicle's maximum payload capacity had "used up" with the heavier bumpers? If this is a 1/2 ton pickup, you might be unpleasantly surprised. Less of a concern if it is a 3/4 or 1 ton unit (but will still reduce your carrying capacity.)
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