Another Equal-i-zer question

[lafla]

We have a RAM 2500 4X4 Cummins 6.7L with payload rating of 2250 pounds and tow capacity of 17,000 plus pounds. It has a class V hitch. We are waiting on our new 2017 Flying Cloud 25' twin to have some delivery bugs worked out and will go the path of least resistance and allow the dealer to put on an Equal-I-zer hitch. The 10K is the recommendation but I wondered if putting on the 6K hitch would reduce stress on the Airstream frame and still control sway. Any input is appreciated.

[joshjack]

You need to go with the size above the gross of your trailer. If you want to reduce strain on the AS frame you can just not set the WD as tight.

[wulfraat]

You need and want 1000lb bars for that trailer. 600lb bars won't transfer weight.

I've got 20,000 miles or so towing with my equalizer with my 25' and it works fine, no poped rivets etc ....

[tjdonahoe]

With a 2500 ram 31' classic, I use 800 lb bars with the Reese duel cam..works out good..

[Mrjkq]

Suggest 1000 lb bars, the stress factor is negligible.

[wulfraat]

For the equalizer hitch, your choices are 600lb bars, 1,000lb bars or 1,400 lb bars. Choose the 1,000lb bars.

[SeaLevel]

Originally Posted by wulfraat

For the equalizer hitch, your choices are 600lb bars, 1,000lb bars or 1,400 lb bars. Choose the 1,000lb bars.

There are also 1,200lb bars, which is what I am using with my GMC 1500 with Max Trailering and our 25' FC. It's been very stable and we've had zero popped rivets.

[dkottum]

I didn't like the Equal-I-Zer we had because of the stiff w.d. bars, so we got one with more flexible round tapered bars large enough (1400 lb) to transfer enough hitch weight of our Airstream plus whatever gear we load in the truck behind its rear axle to have full braking and steering control.

[wulfraat]

Originally Posted by SeaLevel

There are also 1,200lb bars, which is what I am using with my GMC 1500 with Max Trailering and our 25' FC. It's been very stable and we've had zero popped rivets.

I stand corrected!

Looks like there is also a tiny 400lb version too

[Al and Missy]

I used 1000# bars to tow my Safari 25 with an F-150. I traded the truck for a Ram 2500 diesel. I had read all the posts on here about the Equalizer bars being too stiff. One post suggested how to modify them by grinding. I happen to have a friend with access to a NC milling machine and we milled my bars down to about 750# rating. I couldn't really tell any difference in the response of the trailer between the unmodified and modified bars, either with respect to sway control and weight distribution or vibration to the trailer.

Al

[jcanavera]

Here's my analysis on the Equal-i-zer bar weight situation as I understand it. In my opinion I believe the load rating for an Equal-i-zer bar really doesn't have much effect on the stress on the trailer. Here's my thinking on this after 13 years of use with my Equal-i-zer and 14 years of using a Reese Dual-Cam.

The bars on the Equal-i-zer don't operate like the spring bars found on other hitches like the Reese for example. The bar itself is much more rigid and doesn't flex like other hitch bars due the fact that the bar at its end closest to the trailer is sitting on an L bracket platform. The support to the bar is coming from that bracket platform which is at a constant position and is positioned when the hitch is installed initially. Contrast that to typical spring bars which hang from a chain stirrup assembly. The chain applies the force to lift the trailer and transfer the weight to the trailer axle and front end of the tow vehicle. As the hitch weight increases you can change the number of links on the chain which increases the lifting force at the end of the bar.

If you look at a properly hitched Equal-i-zer system, the bars are designed to be parallel with the ground. Chain loaded bars many times are not level and will exhibit a bend when they carry their load.

So what this means is that the mass of the Equal-i-zer bar offsets its bending and the bar's ability to stay straight on the level platform (L bracket) provides as much support as necessary to keep the trailer level. So technically the bar has to be rated heavy enough to resist the force that attempts to bend the bar.

With all this in mind if the tow vehicle is sprung heavy enough to resist the load on the ball, the amount of force on the bar is minimized. Thus in many cases a properly installed Equal-i-zer hitch may need a much lighter bar due to the fact that the tow vehicle suspension is not as compressed and therefore the stress on the bar is minimized. In some cases I would dare say that in a heavy duty tow situation, where the tow vehicle is not deflecting much, there would probably be no difference in the ride quality of a lighter Equalizer bar vs the heavier bar since the bar is not having to resist the downward pressure of the hitch weight.

In my case I'm using the class V Equal-i-zer with the 1400 lbs bars. My stated high weight by Airstream is 1,280 lbs, but with full propane tanks and load, I'm probably closer to that 1400 lb mark. My 3/4 ton van does deflect a lot if I were carrying dead weight on the ball. Especially as it has aged those rear springs don't exert as much force as they used to. The van needs those bars and putting lighter ones on could have subjected those bars to potentially breaking. Again it all depends on the tow vehicle and it's ability to apply or resist force. Even with a spring bar hitch, lighter bars in many cases are appropriate.

One thing to remember is that spring bars may be integral to the sway control system used by the trailer. In some cases load is necessary on those bars to provide sway control. Too big a bar might reduce the amount of flex on a spring bar which in case would reduce the effectiveness of the sway control. I don't believe this is an issue with the Equal-i-zer since sway control is handled by a bracket housing which holds the end of the bar next to the ball. That housing is torqued to provide friction and resist sway. In addition the opposite end of the bar sitting on the L bracket also provides a friction point that resists the movement of the bar thus also keeping the trailer in a straight line. Those complaints about the loud moans from the Equal-i-zer hitch in low speed turns or backing is actually the friction from the bar on the L bracket.

Jack

[paiceman]

F350 - 1,000# bars on 30' FC no pop rivets, rode terrific, perfectly level. Now same set up 2017 30' Classic, same results but only 2,000 miles to date.

Bud

[lafla]

Very helpful input everyone, thanks!

[KJRitchie]

i have a 2015 Ram 2500 Cummins with an Equalizer 1000lb bars with my 2008 Classic 25fb, with about 950lbs of tongue weight. Seems to work fine. Get the 2 1/2" shank. I had to purchase the Equalizer with the longest shank because the 2500 rides so high. I didn't want to mess with the adapter and a 2" shank. The 2 1/2" shank and Equalizer head is heavy so purchase a Hitchgrip. I also use a 4 wheel dolly so I don't have to carry the heavy shank/head assembly.

Kelvin

[JimGolden]

Like some of the other guys on here, I use a 14,000lb Eq with the 1400 pound bars. From what I've read, the 1400 pound bars are the same as the 1200 pound bars, but the headshank is beefier on the 14,000lb hitch. I pull an Avion 34' triple which actually measures an inch under 36 feet and my hitch weight can get up there pretty good. The big Eq has been a good setup over many miles. That being said, Inland Andy who I consider a very wise sage once explained it thus: For a heavy tow vehicle (RAM 2500), you don't need as much weight distribution, so use lighter bars to still get the anti-sway. For a light tow vehicle ('64 Cadillac), you need more weight transfer, so use heavier bars. The folks above may be right about the Eq not working like the Dual Cam. Both are good hitches, and I've used both. I prefer the Eq because I don't like messing with the chains and all the grease. For your truck, you could probably get by with lighter bars, but it's nice to have the beefy hitch. You can machine the load bars down so that they have an hour glass shape somewhere around the middle of their length, so that you use the heavy ones that match the beefy hitch head, but are more flexible. One gent on here (name escapes me) did just that a few years back and said it worked great. I will note, the Avion is built a little beefier than the Airstream, and so I've not popped any rivets. I can't honestly tell you if my super heavy rig would pop them on a 25' or not. But with your Ram, you don't need a lot of weight distribution, but anti-sway is always good. One of these years I will pony up and get a Pro-Pride (or just make my own...we en-guh-neers always like to reinvent the wheel) or some other projection hitch. I really do like their design. But for now the Eq has served me well and I'll keep on running with it. Best of luck,

[lafla]

This is such a great forum! After all the input, We are going with the 1000lb bars. While I had to read the post by jcanavera 4 times before it all sunk in, it really made sense. Thanks Jack! I think by going with the 1000 lb setup, I can always adjust down or have the bars milled if it proves too stiff.