2021 Ford F-150 owners thread

[LNBright]

Not being a Ford fan, I can’t get deep into specifics to them, but some generalizations:

The chassis probably isn’t where the differences come about: axles, hubs, suspension, tires, that’s where they vary in specs, leading to differences in what they carry. One suspension on one trim package is more comfortable than another trim level, but that other level can carry more than the other.

[bowling]

a few questions for the experts: is there a way to secure the bed of the '21 F-150 with a cover while at the same time keeping one's trailer connected to the onboard inverter? Can you bring that power out to the hitch while keeping the tonneau cover closed and the tailgate locked? Also, how hard is it to add an additional shore power connecter to the front end of the airstream? thanks for your answers!

[BarryN]

What are the experts thoughts on electronic locking differential?

Must have? Nice to have? Not necessary?

I appreciate any input. Thanks!

[KK4YZ]

Originally Posted by BarryN

Hello,

Total newbie here. I've been reading some of the posts for a while now, but just joined the forum today. We are getting close to a decision on an AS. We also need a tow vehicle. After exhausting various options with SUVs, we've decided that a truck is really the best option. Most likely going with an F-150 XLT or possibly Lariat.

I'm curious what peoples thoughts are concerning 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive with respect to towing. I have no interest in going off road. It does snow here occasionally and when it does the roads are clear in a day or 2. Basically, I don't need to drive in the snow. I used to tow a boat and understand the advantage of 4 WD on a slippery boat ramp.

As far as towing an AS on the road, is there any advantage/reason to consider 4 WD? Wet weather?

I did do a search for this subject and couldn't find anything. If there is an existing thread, please point me to it.

Thank you for any input or advice you can offer!

I’ve used my 4wd on a number of occasions while camping....and none of them had anything to do with snow.

With a lot of rain you might find yourself having to pull out of a real muddy spot. Or you might be maneuvering on an incline with loose gravel. It happens. 4wd is something that you don’t need very often, but when you need it, you really need it!

[KK4YZ]

Originally Posted by BarryN

What are the experts thoughts on electronic locking differential?

Must have? Nice to have? Not necessary?

I appreciate any input. Thanks!

I believe I used my rear locker one time in the past 15 months that I’ve owned the truck.. Depending on the situation it can make a difference. My truck just came with it. It wasn’t a custom order, so I didn’t go through the value of each item like you are. Don’t know what it cost but if it’s not too bad, I’d just go for it.

Prior to my F350 I had a Tundra 4wd. Toyota’s approach to limiting slip is to detect when a wheel starts to slip, then apply the brake on just that wheel, sending torque to the other wheel. When it engages you know it because the brake really bangs hard on that wheel. It’s a different way of accomplishing a rear locker. I’ve noticed the “rear locker” on that truck kick in on a few occasions as well.

Think of it this way, you’re buying a truck to pull a camper out into the sticks, not just cruise downtown. These situations I described can even present themselves in decent campgrounds.

Good luck.

[LNBright]

Originally Posted by BarryN

What are the experts thoughts on electronic locking differential?

Must have? Nice to have? Not necessary?

I appreciate any input. Thanks!

Both of my Sierras have had GM's automatic locking diff; but my 4Runner had an electronic locking diff.

Thing is, with an open diff, you get tire slip. With a limited-slip diff, if a tire starts slipping, it throws the power to the other tire on that axle. You still have one tire w/ power to it, but it should be the one w/ traction. When you have a locking diff, you can have the power split and both tires on the rear axle turning. A 4wd w/ a rear locker can have three tires pulling.

It's a good thing to have, but, if you have 4wd, IMO, it's not as critical as having it on a 2wd (where w/o it, you've only got power to the one wheel that's slipping).

The locking diff is really helpful off road; but you don't want to run a locker in paved conditions. However, if you were in a damp grassy field w/ a bit of a slope, the locker might make the difference in getting out of the field w/o having to be towed.

I'd rather have the locker and not need it, than have skipped on having it when I had the choice and then regret not having it later.

[ddruker]

Originally Posted by bowling

a few questions for the experts: is there a way to secure the bed of the '21 F-150 with a cover while at the same time keeping one's trailer connected to the onboard inverter? Can you bring that power out to the hitch while keeping the tonneau cover closed and the tailgate locked? Also, how hard is it to add an additional shore power connecter to the front end of the airstream? thanks for your answers!

What a great product idea, an in use bed cover for the F150. If someone doesn’t already make one, I’m sure someone will.

It’s not too difficult to add a second shore power connector to your airstream. At least in mine, It was pretty straightforward to route wiring through the length of the body for both solar panels and for batteries in my rear compartment. The same raceways are available for line voltage power, So it is a matter of connecting the new shore power receptacle to your existing one, or you could connect the two at the circuit breaker panel.

I would also recommend being careful to never connect both the truck and shore power simultaneously to your airstream.

[Ultraclassic]

Originally Posted by ddruker

It's an easy purchase...


My older Airstream is designed to run off of a 3 wire 120 volt / 30 amp circuit.



Newer Airstreams with two air conditioners are wired to run off of a 4 wire 50 amp service that can supply both 120 and 240 volts simultaneously at up to 50 amps.



Trying to keep things super simple - you can think of a 240 V circuit being made of up 2 120V circuits that are added together. Internally, there are two hot wires, each carrying 120 Volts. If you connect either of these hot wires to the neutral wire, you get a 120 volt circuit, that will deliver up to 30 amps. So as you noted above, the F150 can supply up to two 120 Volt circuits at 30 amps each. If you connect both hot wires together, you will get a single 240 volt circuit that will deliver up to 30 amps.

Hence you don't need a voltage converter or anything fancy or expensive to plug either kind of airstream into the back of the new F150. You just need an appropriate adapter for your plug to make it fit into the socket in the back of the F-150. Internally, the plug will connect either one or both of the hot wires from the F-150 to one or both of the hot wires used by your airstream.


The socket in the back of the F150 is a NEMA L14-30 locking socket. Sockets are also known as female connectors. This type of socket uses two hot wires, a neutral wire, and a ground wire.


My airstream power cord has a NEMA TT-30 plug. Plugs are also known as male connectors. This type of plug uses one hot wire, one neutral wire and a ground.



The newer 50AMP airstream power cords have a NEMA 14-50 plug. These use two hot wires, a neutral wire, and a ground wire, just like the socket in the F150.


So for my Airstream, I need a NEMA L14-30 Female to TT-30 Male adapter. Internally, this will connect one of the hot wires from the F-150 to my Airstream hot wire, and it will also connect neutral to neutral and ground to ground. One of the hot wires from the F150 is not used - and you are correct, this unused power is available for other uses from the other sockets in the rear of the F150.

Here is one such adapter-> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Conntek-...309278616-_-N&



For a newer Airstream, you need a NEMA L14-30 Female to NEMA 14-50 Male adapter, that will connect each of the four wires coming from your F150 to their counterpart in your Airstream.

When looking for an adapter, ask questions here or read the instructions carefully to make sure the adapter you choose meets your requirements - for example the one I linked to above that specifies adapting a 240V generator to a 120 Volt trailer plug, and it has a capacity of 30 amps or greater.

So an adapter is all you need and you are good to go. The only other thing to be aware of is that for a newer airstream with a 50 amp service, you will trip the circuit breaker on the F150 if you turn on so much stuff in your Airstream that you exceed 30 amps of demand on either of the two circuits. So try not to run your welder and your air conditioners at the same time... [emoji38]

I am subscribed to this thread for many reasons.

-The plug adapter picture is golden information. Thank you

- I just changed my tow vehicle from a 05' Lariat F150 to a 2012 GL350d, may have questions (2000' 30' Classic)

- Curious about the New F-150 hybrid

[Ultraclassic]

Originally Posted by Phjimfitz

I too am researching and about to order a 2021 F150. Regarding the heavy duty payload package - It is only available on XL and XLT trim vehicles (301a mid level option package). It cannot be ordered on and XLT 302a high trim option or any trim level above XLT (not on Lariat, King Ranch or Limited). I have asked numerous Ford dealers why this limitation exists and have yet to receive any answer. The pricing info contained on this forum is very helpful. For those who have researched or purchased a new F150 I have a question about the spare tire. The max tow package automatically upgrades the tires from 18" to 20" at a $1395 MSRP price jump ($1270 invoice). The price jump from 18" wheels and tires to 20' wheels and tires cannot possibly cost anywhere near what they are charging. More importantly, although the max tow package truck will be equipped with 20' wheels and tires, the spare tire is also 18". This would seem a problem in the event of a flat. I don't want to roll down the road towing my trailer with unmatched tires. Does anyone know more about the spare tire quandary than I have been able to find thus far? Also, must one have a Costco membership for any length of time prior to ordering a Ford truck? I have a BJ's membership but getting $1000 below invoice would be worth the Costco membership price. I have not been able to get a dealer to talk about sub-invoice pricing yet. Thanks

Jim

The 18" spare tire and the 20" tire have the same (or close enough) rolling diameter, example if you put them side by side they are the same height, the difference is the rubber is fatter or taller on the 18" rim than on the 20" ( another way to put it) the donut whole is bigger on the 20" tire

[Kevin245]

Originally Posted by BarryN

What are the experts thoughts on electronic locking differential?

Must have? Nice to have? Not necessary?

I appreciate any input. Thanks!

We have rear ELD on our 2016 F150, it is nice to have. Seldom used, but there have a been a few times where we needed that little bit of extra traction.

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by LNBright

Jim,

All of the features that are added on to higher trim levels end up adding weight to the vehicle, thus leading to a lower payload. Add a sunroof, you lose a hundred pounds of payload, etc. That's why they start w/ a lower-optioned version to build a larger payload version. If you start w/ one that has all the bells and whistles, it's already eaten into the payload enough that the end-result numbers aren't as impressive.

I'm fairly certain that this is a business decision on Ford's part... pushing buyers of higher-priced higher-capability trucks into the still-higher-priced SuperDuty range.

The HDPP only comes on the longest wheelbases for a particular cab and doesn't seem to be an item normal dealers stock... like an F150 with tow mirrors, it's an odd duck. Ford probably ran the numbers and presumed most F150 HDPP trucks would go to fleet buyers, and most consumers looking for the high-payload capabilities with air-conditioned seats and a sunroof would just get an F250 and a stepladder. HDPP adds more than enough payload to still be useful even if you could get Platinum levels of equipment, but the more utilitarian wheels and LT tires probably don't appeal to enough Platinum 150 customers, etc.

[dmatzinger]

Originally Posted by ddruker

What a great product idea, an in use bed cover for the F150. If someone doesn’t already make one, I’m sure someone will.

It’s not too difficult to add a second shore power connector to your airstream. At least in mine, It was pretty straightforward to route wiring through the length of the body for both solar panels and for batteries in my rear compartment. The same raceways are available for line voltage power, So it is a matter of connecting the new shore power receptacle to your existing one, or you could connect the two at the circuit breaker panel.

I would also recommend being careful to never connect both the truck and shore power simultaneously to your airstream.

Regarding adding a second shore power receptacle to the AS:
I'm also buying a '21 F150 hybrid with the 7.2KW option and I've also thought about adding a second (male) shore power receptacle to the front of my trailer (2017 Sport 16). I wanted to note the other thing to be careful about is having a means of having only one of the receptacles active at a time; otherwise the one not in use would be a dangerous live male plug. If your system is 30 amp, here's one solution:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now, being a relative newbie myself, I have a related question for experienced AS modifiers: as I said I'm intrigued by the idea of installing a shore power outlet in the front of my Bambi, while the original outlet and interior converter are in the passenger side rear. How do I get access in the interior to route AC cables from the converter to the front (presumably to the electrical compartment which is under the dinette seat in the front driver's side). Is there any easy way? Barring this, is it acceptable to route waterproof AC flexible or rigid conduit under the bottom of the trailer?

[ddruker]

I just bought a new external power inlet to add to the front of my Airstream. It's a heavy stainless steel casting - seems very well made.

The idea is to enable me to connect the Airstream to the F150's cargo bed 7,200 watt power outlet while towing, so for instance I can run the refrigerator and or air conditioner and or instant pot while in motion.

I've already run wiring for my solar panels from the front to the rear of my Airstream, so I know there are internal channels I can use for 10 gauge Romex or SOOW/SJOOW cord to run from this new inlet in front to the rear of the trailer. I expect your mileage will vary depending on your year / model of airstream as to whether you can find a clear path to route wiring internally from front to rear - in my trailer this was straightforward. I don't see why you couldn't run wiring underneath, as long as it is protected by either conduit or your belly pan, but I think internal is much much easier and cleaner if you can figure out how to make it work.

I will also need to buy a 10 gauge locking generator extension cord and adapter to run from the F150's L14-30 power outlet to the locking L5-30 receptacle on this new inlet.

Still to be determined is how I will switch between the existing power cord and this new inlet. As the prior poster noted, they really should be isolated from each other, so they both are not hot when either one is plugged in to line voltage. I will post further once I figure this out. Probably will end up installing a transfer switch in the hot water heater access or in the rear cargo compartment... This one looks promising --> https://www.amazon.com/Peissy-Change...739465011_1_11

I also might get fancy and replace the existing hardwired power cord in the rear of my trailer with a second one of these inlets in the rear - then I would only need to carry a single power cord and also it would be impossible to plug in two line power sources at the same time.

This is the inlet I bought -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by ddruker

~~
I also might get fancy and replace the existing hardwired power cord in the rear of my trailer with a second one of these inlets in the rear - then I would only need to carry a single power cord and also it would be impossible to plug in two line power sources at the same time.
~~

Stick with the transfer switch. Having 2 inlets hard-wired in would mean that your 2nd inlet's connectors would be "hot" when the first is plugged into shore power, which is not a safe arrangement.

[DCPAS]

Originally Posted by Kevin245

We have rear ELD on our 2016 F150, it is nice to have. Seldom used, but there have a been a few times where we needed that little bit of extra traction.

I don't pretend to know how it helps, but Ford claims the ELSD helps during towing to limit oversteer and enhance control. My guess is that it would send power to inside wheel in an oversteer situation in order to attempt to get the truck from spinning. It came as part of the tow package on our SUV.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nxFStsvr2g

[SailorSam205]

Originally Posted by ddruker

I just bought a new external power inlet to add to the front of my Airstream. It's a heavy stainless steel casting - seems very well made.

This is the inlet I bought -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I were buying a new connection port or replacing an existing one, I'd get a Smart Plug. Twist locks are old technology originally intended for machine shop plugs. Smart Plugs have larger conductivity surfaces, and are easier to connect correctly.

https://smartplug.com/


Looking forward to see how you isolate the two connections.

[pjshier]

For what it is worth, our 17 27FBT 30amp has two electrical connections - one in the front, one on the side. We boondock a lot, and use the front connection most of the time to connect the generator in the bed of the truck.

So when I upgraded the power center in anticipation of a future lithium upgrade, I did not reuse the relay located in the old power center that prevented one connection from remaining "live" when the other was plugged in, and insulated/capped the wires from the side connection. The side connection is now useless, but could be reconnected with another relay some day.

Those relays are not complicated and would be effective for those adding a second electrical connection.

[dmatzinger]

Originally Posted by ddruker

It's an easy purchase...


My older Airstream is designed to run off of a 3 wire 120 volt / 30 amp circuit.



Newer Airstreams with two air conditioners are wired to run off of a 4 wire 50 amp service that can supply both 120 and 240 volts simultaneously at up to 50 amps.



Trying to keep things super simple - you can think of a 240 V circuit being made of up 2 120V circuits that are added together. Internally, there are two hot wires, each carrying 120 Volts. If you connect either of these hot wires to the neutral wire, you get a 120 volt circuit, that will deliver up to 30 amps. So as you noted above, the F150 can supply up to two 120 Volt circuits at 30 amps each. If you connect both hot wires together, you will get a single 240 volt circuit that will deliver up to 30 amps.

Hence you don't need a voltage converter or anything fancy or expensive to plug either kind of airstream into the back of the new F150. You just need an appropriate adapter for your plug to make it fit into the socket in the back of the F-150. Internally, the plug will connect either one or both of the hot wires from the F-150 to one or both of the hot wires used by your airstream.


The socket in the back of the F150 is a NEMA L14-30 locking socket. Sockets are also known as female connectors. This type of socket uses two hot wires, a neutral wire, and a ground wire.


My airstream power cord has a NEMA TT-30 plug. Plugs are also known as male connectors. This type of plug uses one hot wire, one neutral wire and a ground.



The newer 50AMP airstream power cords have a NEMA 14-50 plug. These use two hot wires, a neutral wire, and a ground wire, just like the socket in the F150.


So for my Airstream, I need a NEMA L14-30 Female to TT-30 Male adapter. Internally, this will connect one of the hot wires from the F-150 to my Airstream hot wire, and it will also connect neutral to neutral and ground to ground. One of the hot wires from the F150 is not used - and you are correct, this unused power is available for other uses from the other sockets in the rear of the F150.

Here is one such adapter-> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Conntek-...309278616-_-N&



For a newer Airstream, you need a NEMA L14-30 Female to NEMA 14-50 Male adapter, that will connect each of the four wires coming from your F150 to their counterpart in your Airstream.

When looking for an adapter, ask questions here or read the instructions carefully to make sure the adapter you choose meets your requirements - for example the one I linked to above that specifies adapting a 240V generator to a 120 Volt trailer plug, and it has a capacity of 30 amps or greater.

So an adapter is all you need and you are good to go. The only other thing to be aware of is that for a newer airstream with a 50 amp service, you will trip the circuit breaker on the F150 if you turn on so much stuff in your Airstream that you exceed 30 amps of demand on either of the two circuits. So try not to run your welder and your air conditioners at the same time...

This is vey good information. I just want to emphasize that anyone attempting to adapt the 4 wire 240V outlet in the hybrid to a 120V trailer system should be sure they know what they're doing and be very careful. I was talking with Airstream tech support this morning about adding a second shore power plug to the front of my AS. The very first thing he said was this could be disastrous - he had just talked to someone who plugged their AS into the 240V outlet of the hybrid and fried their (4 wk old) trailer's electrical system. Be absolutely sure you aren't using both of the truck's hot wires - just one hot, neutral and ground. Don't trust an adapter without verifying its connections. Check with a voltmeter before you connect the trailer to be sure you're getting 120 across the hot and neutral - not 240.

[rmkrum]

Instead of a relay to switch between my front and side electrical inputs I used a Blue Sea Systems shore power selector switch on my 30 amp Airstream. The switch also has power and polarity LEDs to let you know what’s going on. It feeds a hard-wired EMS/Surge protector mounted behind my power center that will not apply power to the Airstream systems if something is out of wack.



I use the better EZConnetor stainless steel connectors in both locations.

[ddruker]

I ordered parts today to convert my Airstream from having a single hard-wired cord and plug in the rear bumper to having two automatically switched stainless steel 30 AMP power inlets, one at the front and one in the rear.

I also ordered a marine grade 30AMP power cord, plus adapters for both standard 120V 30AMP RV outlets found in trailer parks, as well as the 240 V 30AMP outlet in the back of the F150.

The setup includes an automatic transfer switch, which will sense which of the two power inlets is energized, and will automatically switch to the active source, and will isolate the unused source. It will also never allow both power sources to energize to the Airstream simultaneously - only one can ever be connected at a time.

Parts are:

Stainless steel power inlets (2) - > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hole saw for power inlets -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wiring for Inside Airstream -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...S12FR6OS&psc=1
Automatic Transfer Switch -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Power Cord -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
F150 dogbone power adapter -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
RV Park power dogbone adapter -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hope this shopping list helps. I will post pictures as I perform the installation.