1-7/8 inch crowfoot

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

Maybe all the more reason to ask mfgr how they do it.

I think the manufacturer would give you an answer similar to the information given in this video. (near the end, at about 6:45 where it is shown how to calculate using weight and measure)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XaqBA-xSGbc

[GCinSC2]

I’m not concerned about understanding torque, I get that but I am curious as to what the hitch mfgr uses for the “socket” to turn the nut.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

I’m not concerned about understanding torque, I get that but I am curious as to what the hitch mfgr uses for the “socket” to turn the nut.

A 12 pt. box end wrench will be easy to tighten the nut. Just not measure the torque.

At some point we all ask ourselves, "Do I want to tighten the nut or measure the torque?"
"How much torque is on that nut?" "A boatload."

BTW, I'm almost certain Equalizer sells their hitches without the ball attached.
Here's Amazon's blurb:

Equal-i-zer 4-point Sway Control Hitch, 90-00-1000, 10,000 Lbs Trailer Weight Rating, 1,000 Lbs Tongue Weight Rating, Weight Distribution Kit Includes Standard Hitch Shank, Ball NOT Included

[Al U. Minium]

No ball with Equalizer hitch. But with them, you can get a socket and breaker bar on the nut.

Torque is applied via approximate weight and length of the cheater bar used.

When we picked up our Airstream at dealer I asked how they torque the ball nut. Same way -- no torque wrench involved. Just get it tight with big long bar and if the bar is about 4ft and you pull at least 100 lbs on it, it is close.

[GCinSC2]

Folks,

On trips I carry a 40” 3/4” breaker bar, 3/4” X 6” extension, replacement ball, several lock washers and a 1 7/8” socket just to share it with any fellow Airstreamer that needs a helping hand checking or replacing a damaged ball.

I haven’t run into this setup that I remember and I’m just curious how the mfgr does it correctly (tool wise) to tighten it to spec and leave behind a professional looking installation.

The offset torque adaptor looks like best shot but do they exist in 3/4” drive? My quick look this am, didn’t see one.

Last time I reached for any torque wrench was last Tuesday when I installed a new clutch and flywheel in my 2005 Dodge Ram Cummins.

Got torque? Yes in my tool collection and under my hood thank you.

Gary

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by Decatur

attempting to torque my hitch ball it is impossible to get a 1 7/8 inch socket (even the shortest socket i can find) connected to my 3/4 inch torque wrench to fit in the trunnion head space with my hitch ball shank and nut. Has anyone found a 3/4 drive 17/8 crowfoot?

I have a 12000 lb e2 trunnion hitch

a 450 lb tourque wrench

Decatur,

So what was the final tool solution? Sharing the solution is how folks learn.

Gary

[Decatur]

Follow up on Crows Foot

Many members suggested I contact the mfg. so I did. The reply

Mike,

Thanks for the email. If a standard 1-7/8" socket does not fit, you will need to use a 1-7/8" thin walled socket. If you are having trouble getting the required torque values, I would recommend going to an auto shop or machine shop that would have a torque wrench that can reach the higher torques.

Thanks,
Jacen C.
Fastway Trailer Products

I sent the phots posted earlier in this blog and a detailed report that my torque wrench with any socket would not fit into the available space. The response use a 1-7/8" thin walled socket shows he either did not read my email, just posted a stock response or does not give a hoot. Stating I would recommend going to an auto shop or machine shop that would have a torque wrench that can reach the higher torques. shows he did not read the email that stated I do have a 450 lb torque wrench so do not need a higher torque wrench.

Thank you Fastway for nothing. HOWEVER with the help of members of this post I did come up with a very workable solution and it only cost $35. What I did in the next post

[Decatur]

Suggested by members of this post I made up a 4 foot pipe with an attached 1 and 7/8 machine wretch purchased from Northern Tool for $35. I measured up the pipe in one foot units and marked off the weight required to hit 450 ft pounds of torque to the center of the wrench jaws from the marked off points on the pipe

This next part part was over kill but to get as close as possible to the correct amount of applied weight did it. I torqued to 450 ft pounds a one inch nut on a bolt placed in my vice. I then applied various amounts of my weight to the tightened nut with the torque wrench till I could apply 112.5 pounds of weight mostly reliably. I weigh 230 so to hit the 112.5 was easy.

Placing the hitch side ways in my truck receiver, using the extended wrench, a pipe wrench to hold the ball shank and my hands at the 112.5 on the pipe mark I can tighten the ball nut to very very close to 450 ft lbs using info sent in by Alan and several others
112.5 lbs of force at the distance of 4' from the center of the bolt to create 450 ft lbs of torque.
(lever length in feet x pounds of force) = foot pounds
or
2' x 225 lbs = 450 ft lbs
3' x 150 lbs = 450 ft lbs

Conclusion
Fastway the mfg. did not help.
I may not be getting the torque to an exact 450 ft pounds but it is dam close.
Thank the members of this site for their knowledge and willingness to share it.

[GCinSC2]

Decatur,

Innovate
Adapt
Overcome

Well done and boo hiss to hitch mfgr not being more knowledgeable about what is needed.

Thanks for the follow up.

Gary

[GCinSC2]

Folks I have never worked with this exact hitch that I remember but taking a second look here is a video from Fastway and Dave shows the short socket at 5:00 and then at about the 7:08 mark installing the hitch ball and nut using a short socket, extension and torque wrench.

Dave even has an Equal-I-Zer shirt on, same parent company?

If the mfgr has a video and shows the install and their tech support doesn't know about it!

Tech Support should have advised you the caller yes, we do have a video can I direct you to it? It will show you the installation and if you are having difficulty finding a socket here is how short we recommend the length to be.

And I bet Decatur could have modified standard socket made it shorter and used his existing torque wrench.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_kbKyXRZTM

That's a bit of a boo hiss to Fastway Tech Support from an Equal-I-Zer owner.

And if this info doesn't match what Decatur has, I'll contact a mod and ask to have this post removed.

Gary

[Jammer]

Hi Decatur


As shown in the video there should be enough clearance to get an extension on the socket so that the larger head of the torque wrench does not hit the hitch head. That is what I would do. I have not seen crowfoot wrenches or torque adapters (which are the similar tool that is more like a box end wrench) in 3/4" drive.

[Decatur]

Gary
Thank you for the video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_kbKyXRZTM

I dis see this a way back and completely forgot about it. I watched a few times the ball installation part, slowed it down and zoomed in. The e2 hitch head is a new one mine is an older one.

The lower trunnion head has a curved space between the connection points for the trunnion bar, mine does not. See attached of the head shown in the video and mine. Very different and i think a modification over the years to accommodate an easier method to torque the ball bolt.

This says a lot when it comes to understanding the comments from the supplier however I would think they would see the difference in heads (send photos to them) mine older than instructions given for a newer style head.

[GCinSC2]

Decatur,

I think these pics really show the issue you were dealing with. Yours is a no access their “newer” one has access and the video shows no huge deal. Got it.

But I’ve worked tech support and taken countless calls about the product line I worked for.

It was our responsibility to have the best possible answers and information to the best of our ability and the callers information they provided for us to reply to.

E2 should have had a here’s how to do THAT one and maybe even slipped the older head design into this video for if you gave this design do this.

You figured out a solution that worked for your situation.

Gary

[mkcurtiss]

I would not have thought those u-bolts would take that much force! Whatecer works !

I was replacing a heater core on an antique Corvette a year or so ago.....I had to invent a tool that was very thin, had enough strength to hold a nut in place while I got the bolt started, but not too much strength, because it needed to break off as I tightened it down.....the right amount of superglue, on a popsicle stick.....crazy.....but it worked perfectly !

[sarge12212]

Really? I've never seen anyone put a torque wrench on a hitch ball! Seems like an excess of caution and needless anxiety over a simple issue. It's not rocket science, so don't overthink it!
Put some Blue Treadlocker on the bolt. Put a new lock washer on and screw on
the nut. Put a large Crescent wrench on the flat edges of the ball. Put a 1 7/8 short socket on a 3/4 breaker bar and crank the crap out of it! Put a cheater pipe on the breaker bar, if you really think you need to, but that's overkill. I've never had the ball loosen up, ever! Getting it back off later? Well, that will require the cheater, lol!

[ITSNO60]

You need these, then do the math for the extended length, and pray that it does not slip ,or break at 450 lb/ft:
Option 2 would be a 1-7/8" box wrench with a 3/4" drive socket welded into the open end, again do the math for the added length.
Option 3 would be what sarge12212 said, put a long box wrench on it (like a hitch ball wrench) and a pipe, or a BFH. Personally I use my BFB. (Big Freakin Boot)

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by ITSNO60

You need these, then do the math for the extended length, and pray that it does not slip ,or break at 450 lb/ft:
Option 2 would be a 1-7/8" box wrench with a 3/4" drive socket welded into the open end, again do the math for the added length.
Option 3 would be what sarge12212 said, put a long box wrench on it (like a hitch ball wrench) and a pipe, or a BFH. Personally I use my BFB. (Big Freakin Boot)

That crows foot is the right idea but specs shows it's 1/2" drive. Not sure it or the extension would take the 400+ Lb-ft that the hitch nut needs.

Williams have a 3/4" drive?

Good search ISTNO60

I've seen the results (loose hitch ball, not a total disconnect) from not getting the hitch nut tight even one so loose the owner tightened it with a small pair of channel lock pliers while I was walking back with my 3/4" drive tools.

Gary

[ITSNO60]

I missed post #28 in which the OP describes how he solved the problem. Hats off to you Decatur for your persistence and your abilities.

[MSL]

Great chart! Thanks for posting.