1-7/8 inch crowfoot

[Decatur]

attempting to torque my hitch ball it is impossible to get a 1 7/8 inch socket (even the shortest socket i can find) connected to my 3/4 inch torque wrench to fit in the trunnion head space with my hitch ball shank and nut. Has anyone found a 3/4 drive 17/8 crowfoot?
I have a 12000 lb e2 trunnion hitch
a 450 lb tourque wrench

[GCinSC2]

I looked at the E2 manual online, nothing detailed for real special tools req’d.

Any chance for a pic or two?

Is it similar to the Equalizer head? I have that one and I use a std socket but a previous socket that I lost reqd a bit of thinning the OD of the nose to get a good bite and I use a 6” extension and breaker bar.

I also have to rotate the trunnions out of the way for access.

Gary

[Al U. Minium]

This is not a preferred solution, but I have put my air hammer with chisel on a hitch nut to tighten it up. This marked up the nut, but not so much that the correct socket wouldn't later fit it.

And it tightened it down.

Found loose ball upon pre-trip inspection and could not find correct socket in my tools or at local auto parts store.

That ball and nut were retired upon full rectification of the issue, but I would do the same thing again in the same situation. It works at least temporarily. And replacement is cheap.

[Mollysdad]

I see the problem. I think.
The E2 trunnion head has a plate under the ball nut for the trunnion support.
However, I can't imagine a crowfoot on a torque wrench would be accurate anyway. I guess I'd shoot for a 1 7/8 box end and a 4' section of pipe over it.
First, I'd remove the bars and flip the shank over in the receiver, so you can assess the problem. Or once you have the wrench, turn the shank 90 degrees so you can push down on the "torque amplifier" (Pipe).
Have you tried putting the socket on the nut and then inserting the wrench?
Sometimes that gains you some clearance.
Or a universal with an extension so the wrench is outside the plate?

I can't imagine you're the first to have this issue. I'd give Fastway a call. Aren't they part of Equalizer?

BTW, This socket looks short.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-460-Sta...03&s=hi&sr=1-3

[Mollysdad]

From the manual:

Hitch balls require a 1-7/8” socket and a torque wrench capable of approximately 450 ft-lbs. torque for installation. Your nearest Fastway e2 dealership will have the tools needed and will usually install the hitch ball for a reasonable fee.

[Decatur]

attached photo showing torque wrench , ball w/shank and e2 hitch. this is why I am looking for a 17/8 crowfoot.

I have been using a pipe wrench and a 4 foot pipe, turn the hitch side ways in the receiver and pull like hell but I have no idea how tight I am getting the nut.

I now did find the 17/8 crowfoot but only in a kit with 7 other wrenches $120.00, a bit much for only needing one of the wrenches

[Farmer Dan]

I know this isn't the best way to tighten your hitch ball. I notice your ball has the flat sides against the trunnion head. Wedge a bar or something similar into the nut and turn the ball instead. This would probably not be the best idea to leave after tightening - but may be a stopgap help.

Dan

[A W Warn]

Insert the hitch into the to vehicle so that the ball is horizontal.

Use a boxed end wrench or pipe wrench, then use something that slips over the wrench handle to extend the length (a pipe) to 4'.

It will require 112.5 lbs of force at the distance of 4' from the center of the bolt to create 450 ft lbs of torque.

(lever length in feet x pounds of force) = foot pounds
or
2' x 225 lbs = 450 ft lbs
3' x 150 lbs = 450 ft lbs

I use my body weight and an extension to approximate (actually I exceed) the required torque when tightening a hitch ball. I have never used a torque wrench to measure. I'm heavy enough to be sure I have surpassed the minimum torque required. I've not had any hitch ball come loose in the 45+ years I've been towing.

ps:
I learned this simple math from a structural engineer when a job specification required me to torque some bolts to a minimum 2,000 ft lbs. (stabilizing a building foundation wall that was collapsing) I used a 10' lever with 200+ lbs (me) hanging on it. That satisfied this engineer's torque test.

[Decatur]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

I see the problem. I think.
The E2 trunnion head has a plate under the ball nut for the trunnion support.
However, I can't imagine a crowfoot on a torque wrench would be accurate anyway. I guess I'd shoot for a 1 7/8 box end and a 4' section of pipe over it.
First, I'd remove the bars and flip the shank over in the receiver, so you can assess the problem. Or once you have the wrench, turn the shank 90 degrees so you can push down on the "torque amplifier" (Pipe).
Have you tried putting the socket on the nut and then inserting the wrench?
Sometimes that gains you some clearance.
Or a universal with an extension so the wrench is outside the plate?

I can't imagine you're the first to have this issue. I'd give Fastway a call. Aren't they part of Equalizer?

BTW, This socket looks short.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-460-Sta...03&s=hi&sr=1-3

Have you tried putting the socket on the nut and then inserting the wrench?
See photo below , using a 450 lb / 3/4 drive torque wrench their is no room for the socket

I have been using your idea above but with a pipe wrench instead of a box wrench and 4 foot pipe but have no idea how tight I am getting the nut. So purchased the torque wrench to get the nut confirmed it is at 450lbs.

[GCinSC2]

I vote for a call to E2 Tech Support and ask, OK how do you tighten this?

[Decatur]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

Insert the hitch into the to vehicle so that the ball is horizontal.

Use a boxed end wrench or pipe wrench, then use something that slips over the wrench handle to extend the length (a pipe) to 4'.

It will require 112.5 lbs of force at the distance of 4' from the center of the bolt to create 450 ft lbs of torque.

(length in feet x pounds of force) = foot pounds
or
2' x 225 lbs = 450 ft lbs
3' x 150 lbs = 450 ft lbs

I use my body weight and an extension to approximate (actually I exceed) the required torque when tightening a hitch ball. I have never used a torque wrench to measure. I'm heavy enough to be sure I have surpassed the minimum torque required. I've not had any hitch ball come loose in the 45+ years I've been towing.

Thanks Allen. Been doing the pipe wrench and 4 foot pipe but now with your math 3 foot pipe and apply 150 lbs to get 450 ft pounds. I weigh in at 230 Lbs and if I apply my full weight I should hit well over 450 ft lbs. I do not think it is possible to break the shank with just my weight.

Sure would be nice to use the torque wrench to know just how tight it is but I have several other uses for the wrench so not a total loss on investment.

[57Vintage]

I think what you're looking for is a torque adapter. I found a couple at McMaster Carr that are 1-7/8", but they're 1/2" drive.

https://www.mcmaster.com/torque-wrench-adapters

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by Decatur

Thanks Allen. Been doing the pipe wrench and 4 foot pipe but now with your math 3 foot pipe and apply 150 lbs to get 450 ft pounds. I weigh in at 230 Lbs and if I apply my full weight I should hit well over 450 ft lbs. I do not think it is possible to break the shank with just my weight.

Sure would be nice to use the torque wrench to know just how tight it is but I have several other uses for the wrench so not a total loss on investment.

If you think about it, using the lever length multiplied by the force is a more exact measure. This is how a torque wrench would be calibrated.
230 lbs x 3 = 690 ft lbs.= PLENTY tight!
Since retiring I hardly ever use my most of my tools. I only use the torque wrench on lug nuts, where too tight is as bad as too loose.

[Decatur]

Originally Posted by 57Vintage

I think what you're looking for is a torque adapter. I found a couple at McMaster Carr that are 1-7/8", but they're 1/2" drive.

https://www.mcmaster.com/torque-wrench-adapters

Harold & Rebecca, thats it. I have been looking for a crowfoot but the "tight clearence offset" is what I have been looking for. Think the term crowfoot is only used for smaller wrenches/sockets
THANK YOU

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by Decatur

Harold & Rebecca, thats it. I have been looking for a crowfoot but the "tight clearence offset" is what I have been looking for. Think the term crowfoot is only used for smaller wrenches/sockets
THANK YOU

If you use that offset extension, you have modified the lever length and introduced a different torque angle (leverage). So, the reading on the torque wrench will not be accurate or equal to the actual torque on the nut.

But, it would be "close enough".

[Decatur]

Thank you all for your suggestions and information. This is realy a great site with great members. Happy Trailering

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by Decatur

Sure would be nice to use the torque wrench to know just how tight it is

Yes, but a torque wrench measures the torque at the pivot, so adding a crowfoot is moving the axis of effort away from the pivot.

Excellent pictures. I retract my idea of putting the socket on first.
1. breaker bar with a 4' pipe and a little math. Use your body weight, calculate the length needed.
2. Take it to a hitch place and let them do it, although they won't have your answer on torque.

[GCinSC2]

Try this

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/re...la_main_en.asp

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

Try this

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/re...la_main_en.asp

The crow foot at 90 degrees does solve the length issue, but in my humble opinion, a crowfoot will not be able to turn enough to clear the side casting. Remember, you have a 6 sided nut, so will you have more than 60 degrees to work with? It won't help if you turn it 50 degrees and can't get the next "bite".
The OP photos, I doubt will clear a socket with any universal adaptor.

[GCinSC2]

Maybe all the more reason to ask mfgr how they do it.