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Old 04-12-2020, 11:54 AM   #41
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I have the same logistical situation. I simply don’t open the tailgate when the airstream is attached to the truck.
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Old 04-12-2020, 01:23 PM   #42
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We had the same issue and bought an eTrailer receiver tube adapter. It extends the hitch so the AS is back about 6. Not only can we now get the tailgate down, but I now have enough room to step over the hitch without whacking my knee. And it makes turns easier.
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Old 04-12-2020, 01:28 PM   #43
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My solution may not be yours as I have Blue ox WD hitch. It was set up by the dealer and my tailgate would hit the lift motor too. I noticed though that my setup was ever so slightly low at the ball so I moved it up one hole position. Made everything level, solved the tailgate issue and didn't affect towing at all.
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Old 04-12-2020, 02:21 PM   #44
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Quote:
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You should be able to rotate the head 45 degrees for clearance.

Dennis
^
Yes....And the open side of the chain hooks should face toward the rear.

Bob
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Old 04-12-2020, 02:55 PM   #45
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Quote:
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Yes....And the open side of the chain hooks should face toward the rear.

Bob
Bob.

Why have the hooks face up and back?

Wouldn't it be safer to be pointed down
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Old 04-12-2020, 04:15 PM   #46
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Yes....And the open side of the chain hooks should face toward the rear.



Bob



Correct!
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Old 04-12-2020, 04:44 PM   #47
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Bob.

Why have the hooks face up and back?

Wouldn't it be safer to be pointed down
Look closely at the latch up position.


If you do disconnect the open side faces up, the hook is pulled level with the closed side taking the tension.
Plus it's less likely that the hook could drop over bumps and when turning, because the spring that holds the safety latch cannot be bumped open. 👍

Bob
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Old 04-12-2020, 09:25 PM   #48
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I did have to add one washer to the hitch head when I switched to a longer extension shank. When hitched I have 1 inch squat in the rear and 0 inch rise in the front. My F250 diesel and Serenity28 tow without any sway
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Old 04-12-2020, 11:23 PM   #49
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Hi, the best match for a replacement shank, for my set up, was an 18" shank. I had a new hole drilled 2"s back. Later I had another hole drilled 2"s back and the excess end cut off. So my shank would fill the length of the receiver, the first time it was re-drilled I had 1" cut off of the end. When I had it re-drilled a second time, I had 2"s cut off of the end.

From hole to hole, if I could find a good match, a 14" shank would work. Mine ended up being 15"s because I wanted the shank to go all the way into the receiver.
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Old 04-19-2020, 09:21 AM   #50
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I have a Ram 2500 with ARE cap. Both have sliding windows that match up so that air from cab can pass to bed of truck. Just squeeze some foam roll insulation around the windows where cap and cab come together.
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