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07-08-2015, 06:01 AM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1973 Argosy 20
Alpena
, Michigan
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 41
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POR-15 and steel endcaps
I am going to bite the bullet and start doing some work on my 1973 20' Argosy. I am wondering if anyone has a reason to NOT use POR-15 on the rusted steel endcaps... According to their site, POR-15 will bond to aluminum and galvanized metal as well...
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07-08-2015, 06:59 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
Currently Looking...
Benton
, Arkansas
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 5,868
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I cant think of any reason not to use it, I would sand before using ANYTHING though.
__________________
The fact that I am opinionated does not presuppose that I am wrong......
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09-01-2015, 06:22 PM
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#3
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4 Rivet Member
1975 Argosy 24
Malakoff
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 490
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What I did...
1. Paint stripper
2. Sand for HOURS
3. using a mixture of dirt and liquid laundry soap and water ...scrub wash
4. rinse as good as you can
5. towl dry - in the sun...do not touch w/oily fingers....no touch with fingers.
6. use automotive primer..a very fine 4inch roller and tray...roll on primer generously.
7. allow to dry (IN THE SUN)...the heat expands the metal and enhances adhesion.
crude method but highly effective...WORKZ
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09-01-2015, 10:00 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland
, New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
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The por 15 won't dry nice and smooth. So if you're planning on getting a nice automotive paint job later on I'd probably follow kennethowens advice for the most part.
A random orbital sander with 80 grit should help get rid of most of the rust pretty quick.
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09-01-2015, 10:26 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia
, Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
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On the three different Argosy's I have striped the end caps on, this is the process I used. I know it sound strange.
A razor blade knife! And lots and lots of time. I literally took off the original paint by chipping, slicing, whatever you would call it with a razor blade. Hold it at an angle, push it into the paint and it will peel right off down to the original primer. I advise wearing a mask. No sanding necessary.
Then rattle can primer, many thin coats until you build up a reasonable total prime.
For the final color coat, I have had very good results with rattle can Krylon paint. Not the paint for plastics Krylon, the regular type.
My '74 Argosy lives under cover but in 5 years has shown no re-rusting of the end caps. I live next to a river, so high humidities get to the rig, sometimes it sweats badly when it is cold. I am happy with my results.
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09-02-2015, 07:43 AM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1973 Argosy 20
Alpena
, Michigan
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 41
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Eight weeks of no replies, and suddenly I hit the jackpot yesterday
I have already put por15 on the front end cap, and am in the process of stripping off rear end cap paint and rust. I will try the razor blade to see how that works - thanks Idroba! The method used by Kenneth sounds good as well, but I already purchased the por15 for this, so I will probably go ahead. HiJoe, I wish I could afford a proper automotive paint job, but this is a project on a severe budget - I have to do everything outside, so the finish is not going to be nice and smooth anyway (dust, bugs, etc). As long as it isn't looking ready to fall apart, we will be happy
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09-02-2015, 08:32 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia
, Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozy6205
Eight weeks of no replies, and suddenly I hit the jackpot yesterday
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Sometimes posts get lost in the shuffle. I usually find them when I check in via the Portal which gives the new and active posts right then. But if you post and no one responds, your new post sort of scrolls off the end and is only seen again if someone is looking at the specific Forum Topic area it was originally posted in. Then it is re activated and you can hit the jackpot.
Don't live in the Pacific Time Zone and put a new post up at 10 pm or later, no one will see it.... LOL.
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09-06-2015, 09:59 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1972 Argosy 20
Snoqualmie
, Washington
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 503
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Idroba, I'm happy to read your use of Krylon rattle can! I changed the tail lights on my '72 20' Argosy and sanded the back lower panel, then painted with Rustoleum rattle can. I'm pleased with the results and am thinking of finishing the rest of the trailer with matching paint. Can I ask why you chose Krylon over Rustoleum or another rattle can paint?
More importantly, did you escape damage from the wild fires?
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09-07-2015, 12:23 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia
, Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
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Thanks, yes, I am at home now, and we have had some rain and the fires are mostly out, and did not get my home. I did take a ride today and saw many places which were not so lucky. I only saw one flaming log tonight.
On the choice of Krylon vs Rustoleum, I chose it by color shade available. On the 74 Argosy there is a two tone white with the bottom being darker and the top being lighter. On the top the best match was Krylon (I could dig out the exact color if you are interested). So the Krylon was used for the end caps. On the bottom, the best match was Rustoleum (I think) and that is the paint I have used. Again, I can give you the exact one I used if you want it.
It may seem like a waste, but it is amazing how much rattle can paint can be purchased for $100. I think I may have $300 in my entire paint job and it is very satisfactory to me. No, not automotive gloss quality but no one has ever commented that it was ugly or anything remotely close. It is also very easy to patch or touch up if it gets dinged.
Oh, I used a gray metal flake paint on the banana wraps and tongue and rear compartment. That was a rattle can automotive paint. The metal flake looks very good.
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