Our 1976 28' Argosy (Gussy) renovation

[dhbinkley]

Still a long long way to go, but here are the pics with it lifted. Keep in mind that everything is gutted so there is very little weight, I'm sure it will come down once she's done.



On another note, 2 more questions:
1. I have a steel top step and an aluminum top step, thoughts on which one is better? the steel feels a lot more substantial, but the alum will match the 2nd step.
2. Has anyone found an alternate supplier of all the screws that go into the steps? I don't want to reuse the old screws if possible, but I don't want to pay $200+ for all new screws

Feels good to get working on here again...just wish it wasn't 95 and 90% humitity….

[dhbinkley]

Still a long long way to go, but here are the pics with it lifted. Keep in mind that everything is gutted so there is very little weight, I'm sure it will come down once she's done.
Attachment 349852
Attachment 349853


On another note, 2 more questions:
1. I have a steel top step and an aluminum top step, thoughts on which one is better? the steel feels a lot more substantial, but the alum will match the 2nd step.
2. Has anyone found an alternate supplier of all the screws that go into the steps? I don't want to reuse the old screws if possible, but I don't want to pay $200+ for all new screws

Feels good to get working on here again...just wish it wasn't 95 and 90% humitity….

[dhbinkley]

Looking for opinions:
Thinking about attaching the banana wraps differently than the OEM way.
1. Screw 1/16" x 2" Aluminum bar onto the bottom portion of the channel that goes around the shell/floor. Silkaflex between the two.
2. Attach the banana wrap to the alum bar using pop rivets.
3. Silkaflex where the shell skin meets the belly wrap.
4. Use 2" 3M VHB mounting tape that will overlap the skin and belly wrap.
5. Mount the belt trim to the 3M tape.
This should allow for a near water tight seal and allow for banana wrap repairs without removing the rivets attaching the shell.
See attached...
Also do you think there would be an issue attaching the belt trim with 2" 3M VHB Mounting tape?




These things keep me awake at night!

[Eric 26 Argo]

I installed the wrap first then lapped the shell over the wraps so that water wouldn't get behind the wraps and I didn't want to have to rely on a perishable membrane that would require additional maintenance. i will still run a bead of Sikaflex along the belt trim.

[Kcdaniels]

Looking great ...I have a 1973 22' Argosy but don't think I am going this far..lol..but if I do I know where to come for guidance....thanks for posting your restro...

[perryg114]

I would not get too complicated. The factory method works ok. Sometimes the wrap is on the outside of the main skin but it is covered by the trim. Caulk under the trim then again on the top side of the belly trim strip. I used screws for much of my skin attachment on the bottom of the trailer. This way stuff can be removed to check for leaks and corrosion of if you need to get in there to run wires etc. You can leave side wraps attached to the belly trim and remove the screws holding it the the frame member and still access that area. I added drains to my C-channel to drain water below the floor. You are going to have some leaks so figure out how to get water out of there. I also made the C-channel water tight so water would not come into the trailer or leak into the floor. Biggest leak issue is at the back where the plate goes under the back of the trailer. I got rid of that plate back there.



Perry

[dhbinkley]

Thanks Perry...how did you do the drain holes in the channel? Do you have a pic?

[perryg114]

Here are some photos of the front. I did not put drains in the back because I was under time pressure to get it back together in two months to camp in.









Here are some of the rear floor repairs and added stiffeners for the C-channel. This is a weak connection back there so anything you can do to improve that is a good thing.









Here is the rear skin with no bumper water funnel plate. Made a storage box using 1x1 angel to mount existing hinge on.










There are some olders posts with these in there as well in frame and floor forum.



Perry

[dhbinkley]

Perry....Thanks for the thoughts, I do tend to overthink things
What did you use for the drains, just alum tube and created a flange on top?

Well I finally finished 2 things...not big... but DONE!
1. Rebuilt the stabilizer jacks. Torn them down and had the legs made with heavier gauge steel, replaced all the hardware and either painted or powder coated all the parts...they will out live me!
Before:


After:



2. The Steps, I rebuilt the step, replaced some of the alum connecting rods and added a second step since I added the lift kit for the axles. I had to replace almost all the screws (way too much $$$), cut new non-skid treads and added some nylon washers so that the steps work a little smoother.
After:


I have an extra top step and some stabilizer parts (Enough for 3 complete) for sale if anyone is interested, just PM me.

Tomorrow, starting to replace some damaged panels and making some patches.

Time for bed

[dhbinkley]

With the help of a good friend we were able to get the front end cap back on after removing the rust and painting with PO15. I'll still need to fix the holes where it rusted through but it's attached again


We also built a movable platform to access the top as needed...much better than stretching on a ladder.

Sunday worked on putting the other front panels on in the front that were damaged. Lots of trial and error, don't want to drill holes until I'm sure everything will fit together again. With the curved panels cost ~$500 I didn't want to screw it up!!!!!


Hopefully I'll finish getting the panels fitted this weekend and then start on the rear endcap, I can't wait until all the panels are on again!!!
I got the panels at ODM and took a pic of the P/N's of the panels. (couldn't get them right-side up). Be cautious of the P/N's, I'm not sure that the numbers on this are 100% correct. I bought the front curbside and the rear roadside and they are both P/N 14452-02....take your old panels and match them up if you can.
https://www.airforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1585013113

[my3sonsdad]

Looks good!

[my3sonsdad]

Rewinding: can you post the part info for the Dexter lift kit when you have a chance. Did you use with new axles, also from Dexter?

[dhbinkley]

I haven't posted for a while now, but I have all the exterior metal back on. Over the last year or so I've replaced 2 of the curved panels (1 in front and 1 in rear), the rear middle panel all 4 of the panels at the edges of the panoramic windows, a couple of patches and had to add some metal around the wheel wells as well as made some new trim pieces to go around the wheel wells.
I just finished taking apart the 2 compartment doors and rebuilding them with new insulation, seals and new locks (to come after I find the correct cam locks).


I'm currently working on the main door. Since I've decided to replace the lock assembly I went ahead and took the door completely apart and rebuilt it with all new skins inside and out. I like the idea of using the original KT lock but the cost of parts seemed a little crazy and if I'm doing all this work I don't want to get everything rebuilt only to have something else in the lock break and not be able to find parts. The replacement lock is a standard size so it can be replaced in the future if needed. The issue I was going to have is the length of the striker and deadbolt being too short. I looked around and could by a lock with custom length striker and deadbolts for around $300. That seemed crazy so I bought a set of end mills and an X/Y table for my drill press and made my own. I haven't cut to them to length yet I wanted to wait until I get the door hung back in the frame and can see exactly how long the need to be. I was very happy the way they came out and am confident that it will work well.
https://www.airforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1622946118

Top are the originals and on bottom are the ones I made.
https://www.airforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1622946118

Since the lock is held in place by squeezing the door I cut a couple pieces of PVC board to make sure there was enough substance to hold the lock secure.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1622946118

[dhbinkley]

I was trying to separate the window frames and decided to build some jigs to help. So far they are working really well.


https://www.airforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1636686584

[rugjenkins]

It’s looking great! Keep up the good work. I put the same door lock assembly on mine 8 years ago. It works great. Love the pics and progress. I’ve followed your thread since the beginning.

[dhbinkley]

I just finished repairing my 4 vista view windows and thought I'd share what I learned.
1. I made a couple of jigs to split the frame halves. See previous posts.
2. Once the frames are split make sure you mark the window and frames so that they go back together the same way they came apart. Clean the windows and frames and make sure the frame channel is cleaned and any burrs are removed. Clean the hole that the roll pins will be inserted into as well.
3. I used the vinyl window glazing from Vintage Trailer supply. Cut a section of the new glazing a few inches longer than you need to circle the window.
4. Put 1 half of the frame on to the window and mark on glass where the frame seam will be.

5. Start putting the glazing a few inches past where you marked the middle of the window and use painters tape to hold it on. It is much easier to work with the glazing if it's warm vs. cool...I put it in the sun for a few minutes.
Carefully wrap the glazing around the frame a few inches past the mark at the bottom of the window and tape it in place.

6. Spray the grove in 1st half of the frame where the window and glazing will be with silicone spray.
7. Slide the frame over the glazing and window and stop before the glazing is all the way in the frame at the end of the window. At this point with the window/glazing partly in the frame, you can gently push the glazing into the frame as you push the window in. This makes it easier to get the glazing in place before it's all the way together. In the pic I have worked the one side in the frame and then will work on the other side.

8. If part of the glazing is still not seated, you can use a plastic tool from harbor freight to help get it in place.
9. Insert the new roll pins in the 2nd frame half before starting reassembly. I was able to just tap them in place with a small hammer.
9. Repeat the same process for the other side but stop about 3 inches before the 2 ends of the glazing meet. I didn't align the glazing seam and the frame seam on purpose to hopefully minimize chance of leaking.
10. Cut the long side of the glazing so that it will meet the other end, better a little bit long than short. I used a vinyl cement to bond the 2 ends together.
(HH-66 PVC Vinyl Cement Glue) play with some scrap pieces to get your cuts good and square and figuring out how to apply the cement before doing it for real. I used painters tape over the splice and left it for about 10 minutes before moving on.
11. After the cement is dried, follow the same process to work the glass and glazing into the frame as you match up the frame ends. make sure you are paying attention to the alignment of the roll pins.
12. Once you have pushed the frame together as much as you can by hand, use a rubber mallet to try and close the gap between the frame halves. Makes me nervous pounding of the window frames
13. I then attached the frame jigs and used a clamp to pull them together.

Have a beer if they all came together without breaking anything! Have 3 if you something did break!