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Old 08-18-2019, 06:21 PM   #41
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1976 Argosy 28
Terrell , North Carolina
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 70
Still a long long way to go, but here are the pics with it lifted. Keep in mind that everything is gutted so there is very little weight, I'm sure it will come down once she's done.
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On another note, 2 more questions:
1. I have a steel top step and an aluminum top step, thoughts on which one is better? the steel feels a lot more substantial, but the alum will match the 2nd step.
2. Has anyone found an alternate supplier of all the screws that go into the steps? I don't want to reuse the old screws if possible, but I don't want to pay $200+ for all new screws

Feels good to get working on here again...just wish it wasn't 95 and 90% humitity….
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Old 08-18-2019, 06:22 PM   #42
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1976 Argosy 28
Terrell , North Carolina
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 70
Still a long long way to go, but here are the pics with it lifted. Keep in mind that everything is gutted so there is very little weight, I'm sure it will come down once she's done.
Attachment 349852
Attachment 349853


On another note, 2 more questions:
1. I have a steel top step and an aluminum top step, thoughts on which one is better? the steel feels a lot more substantial, but the alum will match the 2nd step.
2. Has anyone found an alternate supplier of all the screws that go into the steps? I don't want to reuse the old screws if possible, but I don't want to pay $200+ for all new screws

Feels good to get working on here again...just wish it wasn't 95 and 90% humitity….
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Old 01-21-2020, 07:05 PM   #43
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1976 Argosy 28
Terrell , North Carolina
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 70
Looking for opinions:
Thinking about attaching the banana wraps differently than the OEM way.
1. Screw 1/16" x 2" Aluminum bar onto the bottom portion of the channel that goes around the shell/floor. Silkaflex between the two.
2. Attach the banana wrap to the alum bar using pop rivets.
3. Silkaflex where the shell skin meets the belly wrap.
4. Use 2" 3M VHB mounting tape that will overlap the skin and belly wrap.
5. Mount the belt trim to the 3M tape.
This should allow for a near water tight seal and allow for banana wrap repairs without removing the rivets attaching the shell.
See attached...
Also do you think there would be an issue attaching the belt trim with 2" 3M VHB Mounting tape?




These things keep me awake at night!
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Old 01-23-2020, 07:21 PM   #44
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Knoxville , TN
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I installed the wrap first then lapped the shell over the wraps so that water wouldn't get behind the wraps and I didn't want to have to rely on a perishable membrane that would require additional maintenance. i will still run a bead of Sikaflex along the belt trim.
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Old 01-31-2020, 06:05 AM   #45
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1973 Argosy 22
Lake Wales , Florida
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Looking great ...I have a 1973 22' Argosy but don't think I am going this far..lol..but if I do I know where to come for guidance....thanks for posting your restro...
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Old 01-31-2020, 06:53 AM   #46
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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I would not get too complicated. The factory method works ok. Sometimes the wrap is on the outside of the main skin but it is covered by the trim. Caulk under the trim then again on the top side of the belly trim strip. I used screws for much of my skin attachment on the bottom of the trailer. This way stuff can be removed to check for leaks and corrosion of if you need to get in there to run wires etc. You can leave side wraps attached to the belly trim and remove the screws holding it the the frame member and still access that area. I added drains to my C-channel to drain water below the floor. You are going to have some leaks so figure out how to get water out of there. I also made the C-channel water tight so water would not come into the trailer or leak into the floor. Biggest leak issue is at the back where the plate goes under the back of the trailer. I got rid of that plate back there.



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Old 02-03-2020, 12:02 PM   #47
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1976 Argosy 28
Terrell , North Carolina
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Thanks Perry...how did you do the drain holes in the channel? Do you have a pic?
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Old 02-03-2020, 01:39 PM   #48
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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Here are some photos of the front. I did not put drains in the back because I was under time pressure to get it back together in two months to camp in.









Here are some of the rear floor repairs and added stiffeners for the C-channel. This is a weak connection back there so anything you can do to improve that is a good thing.









Here is the rear skin with no bumper water funnel plate. Made a storage box using 1x1 angel to mount existing hinge on.










There are some olders posts with these in there as well in frame and floor forum.



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Old 02-08-2020, 09:44 PM   #49
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1976 Argosy 28
Terrell , North Carolina
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Perry....Thanks for the thoughts, I do tend to overthink things
What did you use for the drains, just alum tube and created a flange on top?

Well I finally finished 2 things...not big... but DONE!
1. Rebuilt the stabilizer jacks. Torn them down and had the legs made with heavier gauge steel, replaced all the hardware and either painted or powder coated all the parts...they will out live me!
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2. The Steps, I rebuilt the step, replaced some of the alum connecting rods and added a second step since I added the lift kit for the axles. I had to replace almost all the screws (way too much $$$), cut new non-skid treads and added some nylon washers so that the steps work a little smoother.
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I have an extra top step and some stabilizer parts (Enough for 3 complete) for sale if anyone is interested, just PM me.

Tomorrow, starting to replace some damaged panels and making some patches.

Time for bed
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Old 03-23-2020, 07:30 PM   #50
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1976 Argosy 28
Terrell , North Carolina
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With the help of a good friend we were able to get the front end cap back on after removing the rust and painting with PO15. I'll still need to fix the holes where it rusted through but it's attached again


We also built a movable platform to access the top as needed...much better than stretching on a ladder.

Sunday worked on putting the other front panels on in the front that were damaged. Lots of trial and error, don't want to drill holes until I'm sure everything will fit together again. With the curved panels cost ~$500 I didn't want to screw it up!!!!!


Hopefully I'll finish getting the panels fitted this weekend and then start on the rear endcap, I can't wait until all the panels are on again!!!
I got the panels at ODM and took a pic of the P/N's of the panels. (couldn't get them right-side up). Be cautious of the P/N's, I'm not sure that the numbers on this are 100% correct. I bought the front curbside and the rear roadside and they are both P/N 14452-02....take your old panels and match them up if you can.
https://www.airforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1585013113
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Old 03-28-2020, 08:25 PM   #51
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1975 Argosy 26
1979 30' Argosy
Vienna , VIRGINIA
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Looks good!
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Old 03-28-2020, 08:33 PM   #52
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1975 Argosy 26
1979 30' Argosy
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Rewinding: can you post the part info for the Dexter lift kit when you have a chance. Did you use with new axles, also from Dexter?
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