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Old 11-15-2017, 08:59 PM   #1
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New paint job

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Old 11-15-2017, 09:06 PM   #2
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Wow, you did that at home? There's hope for me yet. Please share details if you would.

1. Sanding process
2. Prepping
3. Primer
4. Paint
5. Technique - roll brush or spray...
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Old 11-15-2017, 09:28 PM   #3
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few more pics

Chemical strip first. Sanded bare body with 320 grit. Im going to call this step one from here out, washed with soap and water let dry, sprayed with npropyl alchol let dry, rubbed with tack rag. Sprayed self etching primer (the grey). Filled any small dents with body filler. Sanded filler smooth and repeated step one. Sprayed fillable primer (red) over the self etching primer. Block sanded body with 400 grit and repeated step one. Sprayed single stage polyurethane white. Still have to buff it just to even out a spot or two.

I'm still getting everything reassembled but I'm really excited with the results so far.
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Old 11-15-2017, 09:28 PM   #4
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Have no clue why this thing post my pics the way it does. Sorry
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Old 11-15-2017, 09:29 PM   #5
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Nice work
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Old 11-15-2017, 09:39 PM   #6
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Chemical strip first. Sanded bare body with 320 grit. Im going to call this step one from here out, washed with soap and water let dry, sprayed with npropyl alchol let dry, rubbed with tack rag. Sprayed self etching primer (the grey). Filled any small dents with body filler. Sanded filler smooth and repeated step one. Sprayed fillable primer (red) over the self etching primer. Block sanded body with 400 grit and repeated step one. Sprayed single stage polyurethane white. Still have to buff it just to even out a spot or two.

I'm still getting everything reassembled but I'm really excited with the results so far.
So impressed. How did you learn to do all these steps? Maybe I need to read the paint section on this forum a little closer.

Regarding chemical strip, if paint has beem dried out from sitting in sun for 20yrs, can I go straight to sanding? The paint kind of comes right off when I rub hand ovee it.

My window seals are all dried and cracked. I think I may need to reseal all windows and door before paint job.
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Old 11-15-2017, 09:54 PM   #7
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Just what a good diy`er does.... Google is one of my best friends. This was my first time using hvlp spray equipment.

If your paint is already thin you can skip the chemical strip portion but make sure you remove all of the old paint. It may still come in handy around your rain gutters and underneath plaques, trim pieces and generally hard to sand spots.

After painstakingly digging all of the old caulk and sealants from around the windows, door, and hatches we used an automotive seam sealer to seal everything back up. It was paintable so all of my gaps are now just body color.
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Old 11-15-2017, 10:25 PM   #8
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New paint job

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Originally Posted by 1973Argosy View Post
Just what a good diy`er does.... Google is one of my best friends. This was my first time using hvlp spray equipment.

If your paint is already thin you can skip the chemical strip portion but make sure you remove all of the old paint. It may still come in handy around your rain gutters and underneath plaques, trim pieces and generally hard to sand spots.

After painstakingly digging all of the old caulk and sealants from around the windows, door, and hatches we used an automotive seam sealer to seal everything back up. It was paintable so all of my gaps are now just body color.


1. HVLP sprayer - which one did you go with?
2. Stripper - is it the $200 for 5 gallons from Vintage Trailer Supply? Not sure if Iíll need enough all 5gal to justify such a purchase
3. Caulk and seal removal - amen, that stuff is time consuming. Where did you buy yours? Seems like too many choices on Vintage Trailer Supply, not sure which one is the right one. Cool that you didnít have to tape your gaps and just painted over it.
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Old 11-15-2017, 10:40 PM   #9
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I bought the devilbiss two gun set from ebay. Used dynatron ms-550 seam sealer on recommendation from a body shop friend. The striper was jasco brand bought in gallon containers from lowes. Think we wound up using around 4.5 gallons but we removing a previous roll on application that we did 10+ years ago.
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Old 11-16-2017, 06:08 AM   #10
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Have no clue why this thing post my pics the way it does. Sorry
I thought that was on purpose so the paint wouldn't drip.
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Old 11-16-2017, 10:45 AM   #11
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Old 11-16-2017, 10:48 AM   #12
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We decided to delete the midline trim. The worst of it was welding up and sanding all of the holes from where it was mounted. We think it gave the old girl a much more modern look. Trying to get the belt line and awning back on her today.
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Old 11-17-2017, 12:31 AM   #13
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Can you share details of that antenna upgrade? I still have the bulky original on top of mine and I'd like to replace it with the type similar to yours.

Sounds brave to remove that midline altogether, I do not have welding experience whatsoever so I'll leave it alone. I kind of like having the option to make an accent trim with that line.
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We decided to delete the midline trim. The worst of it was welding up and sanding all of the holes from where it was mounted. We think it gave the old girl a much more modern look. Trying to get the belt line and awning back on her today.
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Old 11-17-2017, 04:29 AM   #14
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It's a king jack digital. No more crank up but does rotate, it has a signal meter for aiming. The worst of it was pulling the new coax to replace the original flat 2 wire. Thought I could pull using the old wire but it must be tied in multiple locations. Wound up strategically drilling rivets to manipulate the inner skin and still fought with the fish tape (wire puller) for an hour or so to get the coax into place. It picks up signal very well.

Part of my repaint aim was to match the exterior of my tow vehicle. I was pleasantly surprised how straight the body panels and rivet lines were once the trim was off. If my measurements are correct the pinstripe we used for accent trim will be in line with the same pinstripe on my tow vehicle.
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Old 11-17-2017, 08:37 AM   #15
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It's a king jack digital. No more crank up but does rotate, it has a signal meter for aiming. The worst of it was pulling the new coax to replace the original flat 2 wire. Thought I could pull using the old wire but it must be tied in multiple locations. Wound up strategically drilling rivets to manipulate the inner skin and still fought with the fish tape (wire puller) for an hour or so to get the coax into place. It picks up signal very well.

Part of my repaint aim was to match the exterior of my tow vehicle. I was pleasantly surprised how straight the body panels and rivet lines were once the trim was off. If my measurements are correct the pinstripe we used for accent trim will be in line with the same pinstripe on my tow vehicle.


Thatís impressive attention to detail on pinstripe alignment, DIY expert level 10! Meanwhile, I am not even sure of how to paint over that mid-section...

The antenna coaxle sounds painful...maybe Iíll do without antenna altogether.

New questions:

1. Axles: Did you ever replace axles on yours? The ones on mine have sat as is for 20yrs...wondering if I need full replacement vs. pack bearings, check brakes, lube and attach new tires.

2. Lug nuts torque: I am taking wheels off and bringing to tire shop to put new tires while trailer sits on storage lot. What is the torque I need to set for the nuts when I put new tires on?

3. 7 pin trailer connector: looks like itís round on the Argo and flat on the new trucks, do you recommend replacing just connector or the whole cords and box of trailerís 7 pin? Still need to find where that box is in the trailer.

These are my basic questions to get it off storage lot to do work at home, or else I can only do bits and pieces at a time at the lot.

Thanks so much for sharing your experience with this newbie.
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Old 11-20-2017, 10:10 AM   #16
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Thatís impressive attention to detail on pinstripe alignment, DIY expert level 10! Meanwhile, I am not even sure of how to paint over that mid-section...

The antenna coaxle sounds painful...maybe Iíll do without antenna altogether.

New questions:

1. Axles: Did you ever replace axles on yours? The ones on mine have sat as is for 20yrs...wondering if I need full replacement vs. pack bearings, check brakes, lube and attach new tires.

2. Lug nuts torque: I am taking wheels off and bringing to tire shop to put new tires while trailer sits on storage lot. What is the torque I need to set for the nuts when I put new tires on?

3. 7 pin trailer connector: looks like itís round on the Argo and flat on the new trucks, do you recommend replacing just connector or the whole cords and box of trailerís 7 pin? Still need to find where that box is in the trailer.

These are my basic questions to get it off storage lot to do work at home, or else I can only do bits and pieces at a time at the lot.

Thanks so much for sharing your experience with this newbie.
Sorry, had the family available to help get everything finished on our trailer over the weekend and didn't get on the internet.

1. Replaced our axles almost 15 years ago. Mine have about 2" of travel left. Check your axle condition by putting a board in front and then behind of the tire on each axle. Have someone pull the trailer or back the trailer onto the board one tire at a time. When you pull on to the board is the tire in front or behind of the tire on the board still on the ground? If so you still have some axle travel. If you can spin the tire the axles are gone with no travel left. For short trips you can still pull with a bad axle. Just go slow and let 10psi out of your tires, this will supply a little cushion for the trip. I would not tow long distance with this setup. You can bet if the trailer has set for 20 years that you need axles.

2. Assuming you have steel wheels not aluminum you should torque to 120lbs.

3. The seven way plug on the trailer is correct. You will need to have a 7 way installed on the truck along with a brake controller. The brake controller will control the trailer brakes and keep them under control of the truck.
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Old 11-20-2017, 10:12 AM   #17
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Old 11-20-2017, 04:33 PM   #18
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Looks fantastic!
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Old 11-20-2017, 10:01 PM   #19
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Looks fantastic!
Thanks! I'm feeling like I've gotten a new trailer. Every time I walk into my kitchen (overlooks my trailer) I'm drawn to the windows. The wife is doing new curtains and we are making the front gaucho more of a bed so even the interior is getting a spruce up.
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Old 11-21-2017, 11:40 PM   #20
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Sorry, had the family available to help get everything finished on our trailer over the weekend and didn't get on the internet.

1. Replaced our axles almost 15 years ago. Mine have about 2" of travel left. Check your axle condition by putting a board in front and then behind of the tire on each axle. Have someone pull the trailer or back the trailer onto the board one tire at a time. When you pull on to the board is the tire in front or behind of the tire on the board still on the ground? If so you still have some axle travel. If you can spin the tire the axles are gone with no travel left. For short trips you can still pull with a bad axle. Just go slow and let 10psi out of your tires, this will supply a little cushion for the trip. I would not tow long distance with this setup. You can bet if the trailer has set for 20 years that you need axles.

2. Assuming you have steel wheels not aluminum you should torque to 120lbs.

3. The seven way plug on the trailer is correct. You will need to have a 7 way installed on the truck along with a brake controller. The brake controller will control the trailer brakes and keep them under control of the truck.


Thanks for answering, totally understand busy family time of year.

1. Yes, will set some $ aside for axle replacement. Good tip on board test, will try that on my 2008 AS. A supply center in CA offers fully built axles in 10Ē or 12Ē, do you know what size is on the 1974?

2. Thanks. Seems like there are all kinds of #s being thrown around, wasnít sure about where to look for definitive guide on such figures.

3. I bought 7round to 7flat adapter to avoid cutting/rewiring from trailer, hopefully adapter will solve that headache.

I love the beautiful white, goes well with your TV. Would love to see more of interior pics, likely just as amazing as exterior.

First things first, axles and wheels for me.
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