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Old 01-22-2012, 10:29 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumatic View Post
Yeah, the Suburban furnaces innards are mounted on a track. There is a screw that secures the workings from the shell. Remove the screw and slide the furnace out on the track. Even though I have seen some dumb things I would be surprised if Airstream did not have some method of working on the furnace other than taking the trailer apart.

This is not the case for Airstream refrigerators which you really do have to take out the cabinetry and umpteen screws.
I think that the innards HAVE to slide out, to access some of the screws that hold the case down. The innards are pretty much the same width as the case, though, and much longer than the space between the mouth of the case and the cabinet door frame.

My initial thought was to remove the center post as you suggested earlier, which would make this relatively easy. The 4 rivets at the top that are backed by the 4"-deep tray are the real problem (and even without the tray, I'd probably have to remove the sink to have a shot at drilling the upper two anyway, even if I were willing to destroy that tray.
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Old 01-22-2012, 11:54 AM   #22
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icocbw, since you have the new furnace in your hand, and I don't, but the specs here say that it's smaller....

the specs on the 30 and 40 series here say that those units are the size you're quoting.
In fact, putting the tape to the case itself, it's in between the various numbers. The body of the case matches the dimensions of the "Q" series you linked, but there's a flange at the inboard end (the one with the removable cover, not the combustion intake/exhaust) and that end measures just under 11" on a side. In any event, it'll easily fit through the cabinet door.

Mine is an NT20S manufactured in 2010, so perhaps the new "Q" models don't have the flange at the end?
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:55 PM   #23
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Well, i was hoping that I would be able to provide some sort of helpful info since we just pulled ours out...but nope. i had hubby go out to our furnace thats lying in the grass, and see if there is any way to dismantle it while under the cabinet. sorry...no dice. He said ours was held in by 2 (yes 2) screws to the outside vent. But other than that, he had to destroy the cabinet to get it out. Hopefully, you dont have to DESTROY.
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:57 PM   #24
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How's this project going?
You need me to bring my arsenal of tools up there and help you out?
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:33 PM   #25
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How's this project going?
You need me to bring my arsenal of tools up there and help you out?
You are welcome to visit here anytime you like, with or without arsenal. This furnace project, however, is probably going to wait a while. I want to camp in February and March, and the likely February destination (Dinosaur Valley State Park) and the definite March destination (Region 9 rally in Mineola) have electric hookups, so my little ceramic heater will do the trick.

I picked up a big plastic bin for the new furnace to live in for a while... it'll keep it dry and protected in the "garage" until I have the stomach for removing the cabinetry.
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Old 01-28-2012, 05:03 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKB_SATX

You are welcome to visit here anytime you like, with or without arsenal. This furnace project, however, is probably going to wait a while. I want to camp in February and March, and the likely February destination (Dinosaur Valley State Park) and the definite March destination (Region 9 rally in Mineola) have electric hookups, so my little ceramic heater will do the trick.

I picked up a big plastic bin for the new furnace to live in for a while... it'll keep it dry and protected in the "garage" until I have the stomach for removing the cabinetry.
Thanks for the warm welcome.
Well I'm glad you aren't cutting yourself short on camping.
With Mrs S in school I'll have loads of free time this year and by the time your done with all of your spring camping I'll be in idle mode so if you need some help just let me know.
If yall would like a change of scenery you would be more than welcome to visit us in the piney woods as well, we have more than enough room to accommodate you and we have high speed wifi in the event you might need it for work.
We could easily knock that job out in a weekend. ( If all went well)
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:08 PM   #27
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DKB, don't feel bad. Today I was in our Argosy, looking at the increasingly cracking 35-yr-old plastic refrigerator exhaust cover. (It's exposed in the Minuet, rather than nicely buried in a cabinet.) Hmmm. Fixing that means taking out the overhead cabinet and the countertop...

Maybe next year.

Tom
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:29 PM   #28
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Take a look at my blog. I covered the refer vent without losing a lot of counter top space.
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:20 AM   #29
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Apologies for the brief diversion...

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Take a look at my blog. I covered the refer vent without losing a lot of counter top space.
Excellent idea. Thanks!

Tom
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:52 PM   #30
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In days of old (the 1960's and 1970's) this was the known as The Airstream Curse among owners of Boles Aero, Avion, Silver Streak and Streamline trailers:

The case of the killer NT22C is 14" wide. The opening of the cabinet door is 13 1/2" wide. I cursed enough that the designer's grandkids' ears were probably burning. The center post between the cabinet doors is riveted in, and those are DOUBLE-blind rivets... pop rivets in where I need a mirror to see them, and the upper 4 have a 4" deep tray blocking drill access from the back.

At this point, it looks to me like this will require removing the entire lower galley . . . .


And why, right through the 1990's my parents were having to re-assure RV techs that their 28' Silver Streak was not an Airstream. Some wouldn't even show up due to this mistaken identity problem.

Bummer, brother. I do truly hope some piece falls into (or out of) place to make this easier.

.
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:47 AM   #31
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Any progress?
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:38 AM   #32
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Cutting torch or better yet a plasma cutter. Put some wet towles around the unit and have a fire extinquisher near by. A plasma cutter produces a clean cut with not much overspray. I bet you a local body shop would do it for you.

Perry
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Old 02-24-2012, 05:37 PM   #33
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Cutting torch or better yet a plasma cutter. Put some wet towles around the unit and have a fire extinquisher near by. A plasma cutter produces a clean cut with not much overspray. I bet you a local body shop would do it for you.

Perry
and video. from outside. with the fire extinguishers.
(actually, I'd do this)
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:28 PM   #34
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Hmmm... I like the idea of cutting it up somehow, but I do think I'd feel like I was punished for taking the easy way out if the floor or cabinetry got burned. Remember, my cabinetry has that plastic woodgrain on it... it wouldn't take much heat to ruin the way that looks, I'm sure. It was 80 degrees here yesterday, it sure is easy to pretend it's never going to get cold again!
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Old 05-11-2012, 06:06 AM   #35
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Aggie has started a thread on removing the furnace from his.
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