Argosy trailer help !

[Mudturtle13]

completely new to the site but already see tons of info . my grandpa gave me his old argosy camper and me and my wife has decided to remodel and restore it the best we can. I know when we parked it last year everything worked . I got in it today hooked the power up and only the outlets and air conditioner is workin. so I’m guessing it’s something with the dc system none of the lights or radio is working . can someone point me in the right direction to get started on fixing it ? Thanks!

[Foiled Again]

Use SEARCH with the keyword "comtemporizing"

After you've drooled over what can be done to modernize, try any other restoration threads.

Also google Airstream restoration and Argosy restoration.

Find rallies that have a vintage section.

Ask here. WANT to meet restorers in my area.

[Foiled Again]

Originally Posted by Foiled Again

Use SEARCH with the keyword "comtemporizing"

After you've drooled over what can be done to modernize, try any other restoration threads.

Also google Airstream restoration and Argosy restoration.

Find rallies that have a vintage section.

Ask here. WANT to meet restorers in my area.

Contemporizing.
Mmmmm fat finger fu(mble)

[TG Twinkie]

It probably has the original Uni Volt converter.
Check the fuses, usually located in the end of the converter. There may also be a fuse in the battery cable mounted on the inside wall of the coach.
Check to see If you have 120 volts AC to the coverter.
Make sure the battery cables are not shorting out. It is not necessary to have a battery. But the old converter is not well regulated.
If the converter is not humming it either has no AC power or it is shot.
Keep us posted.

[matthewsx]

Welcome to the forum. Most likely cause of no DC power is a tripped breaker. Might be a busted inverter too and that’s something you definitely will want to replace.

Just one thought about contemporizing (or whatever you want to call it). Try living with the layout for a while if you can. The factory had some pretty good ideas and changes should be well considered. I’m swapping my mid twins with the gaucho and adding a desk to the middle. I just cut down the twins for a dinette up front. That way I’m keeping the original stuff and preserving the vintage look. Have fun and let us know if you have any questions.

[OTRA15]

Did you find the owner's manual? A printed-to-order copy may be available here for a price:

https://store.airstream.com/product/...owner-manuals/

I don't see Argosy manuals listed on the Airstream.com site. Here is the 1977 Airstream manual:

https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...0003.0110i.pdf

. . . which does have a 21' floor plan on p. 48 [PDF p. 58/116], in case this helps. Item No. 22 on the illustration is the battery, which is located at the front, on the curb side. Not clear whether the access is from outside [typical] or inside, where the arrow is pointing.

Any luck locating the battery?

Good luck,

Peter

PS -- Previous thread is here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...et-180065.html

[A W Warn]

There is a two position switch that will disconnect the 12v power when the trailer is stored. It will be on the interior somewhere near the battery compartment. Make sure it is in the "USE" position not in the "STORE" position.


There are some documents are available for your Argosy that you might like to read:
https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...e18e1ebe44.pdf

https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...957758dfda.pdf

https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...4206bfe9d2.pdf

[TG Twinkie]

There is no INVERTER in your coach. Unless it was added.
The device is called an CONVERTER. It converts 120 volts AC to 12 volt DC.
The CONVERTER provides 12 volt DC power to the fuse panel which distributes that power thru fused branch circuits throught the coach. The fuse panel is connected to the battery thru large a fuse (30 amp or so).
The fuse panel is connected thru a fuse to the charge line from the TV.
As mentioned above. There may be a separate fuse in the negative side of the circuit. It may be mounted in a stand alone fuse holder typically mounted on the interior skin.
A meter typically called a VOM is a valuable tool you should learn how to use.

[Mudturtle13]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

It probably has the original Uni Volt converter.
Check the fuses, usually located in the end of the converter. There may also be a fuse in the battery cable mounted on the inside wall of the coach.
Check to see If you have 120 volts AC to the coverter.
Make sure the battery cables are not shorting out. It is not necessary to have a battery. But the old converter is not well regulated.
If the converter is not humming it either has no AC power or it is shot.
Keep us posted.

Ok will try that tomorrow I got the door open there’s no batterry but I know everything worked last year when I messed with it. What about updating the charging system is it worth messing with ?

[Mudturtle13]

Originally Posted by matthewsx

Welcome to the forum. Most likely cause of no DC power is a tripped breaker. Might be a busted inverter too and that’s something you definitely will want to replace.

Just one thought about contemporizing (or whatever you want to call it). Try living with the layout for a while if you can. The factory had some pretty good ideas and changes should be well considered. I’m swapping my mid twins with the gaucho and adding a desk to the middle. I just cut down the twins for a dinette up front. That way I’m keeping the original stuff and preserving the vintage look. Have fun and let us know if you have any questions.

Thanks for the response I think I’m gonna keep most of the original that I can except the shower I wanna do something a little different with it

[Mudturtle13]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Did you find the owner's manual? A printed-to-order copy may be available here for a price:

https://store.airstream.com/product/...owner-manuals/

I don't see Argosy manuals listed on the Airstream.com site. Here is the 1977 Airstream manual:

https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...0003.0110i.pdf

. . . which does have a 21' floor plan on p. 48 [PDF p. 58/116], in case this helps. Item No. 22 on the illustration is the battery, which is located at the front, on the curb side. Not clear whether the access is from outside [typical] or inside, where the arrow is pointing.

Any luck locating the battery?

Good luck,

Peter

PS -- Previous thread is here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...et-180065.html

I found where the battery cables are at but no battery, it was in the outside storage compartment . I’ll post some pics tomorrow of the electrical boxes that are in the bathroom closet

[Mudturtle13]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

There is no INVERTER in your coach. Unless it was added.
The device is called an CONVERTER. It converts 120 volts AC to 12 volt DC.
The CONVERTER provides 12 volt DC power to the fuse panel which distributes that power thru fused branch circuits throught the coach. The fuse panel is connected to the battery thru large a fuse (30 amp or so).
The fuse panel is connected thru a fuse to the charge line from the TV.
As mentioned above. There may be a separate fuse in the negative side of the circuit. It may be mounted in a stand alone fuse holder typically mounted on the interior skin.
A meter typically called a VOM is a valuable tool you should learn how to use.

I got a fluke I’ll test it Saturday and see what I come up with . I have been working 13 hour days haven’t had much time to really get into it yet . thanks for the response I’ll keep everyone posted I’m gonna take some more pictures so If I still can’t find the problem maybe someone else will see it.

[Mudturtle13]

Ok guys messed with it a little on my lunch break the univolt system does have power going to it so maybe I just need to replace it but now the question is back with the univolt or something else ?

[Mudturtle13]

Here is some more pictures !

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by Mudturtle13

Ok guys messed with it a little on my lunch break the univolt system does have power going to it so maybe I just need to replace it but now the question is back with the univolt or something else ?

Make sure the disconnected positive battery lead in the battery compartment is insulated from the trailer shell so it does not short out the output of the Univolt (if any output is there).

You can run without a battery for testing, but the Univolt or any other converter will certainly NOT like trying to run into a short circuit...

They tend to leak smoke somewhere in that case...and since electrical devices run on smoke, when it leaks out, they quit working.

[rugjenkins]

Progressive dynamics makes a great replacement for $200. I have thought he original univolt from mine if you want it but you have to pick it up[emoji56] I think it still works

[GM Airstream]

Hey sounds like a great little trailer... I'd keep the orginal floor plan... but update and replace things that don't work...

Indeed I would upgrade the charging /converter to one of the new 3 step ones.. that way when you do replace the bats...you won't over charge them like the old univolt system did... get one that will handle about 60 amps of 12 volts.. that way it also will power the units in the trailer...

While at it.. you won't be able to run the wireing through the walls of the trailer.. but, I would add a new ckt breaker box... sqr D is a nice one... with about 5 spaces for ckt breakers...
To which... I would add a elect water heater to the gas one.. either aftermarket or new water heater from dometic... and any other outlets you may need...

Currently it appears that you have one ckt bkr for the AC and the other for the general applicance plugs...

I would consider taking the trailer down and having it stripped and re-painted the gray silver id... that a lot of Airstreams also have gone to.

You will find that the end caps are steel... and have a coversion coating on them... but, check the rivets out well for corrosion.. as the rest is alu.. and steel and alu get along somewhat...but, new paint will keep it for years more..

... also a awning is a necessary option... so you might be able to hunt one down from zip dee.. but I think the argosys came with carefree awnings.. which in my opinion are much better...

You have a great little trailer... you granddad did well for you... and you should plan on handing it down to your kids later on... as a family thing...

You know I think I have a orginal sales book for you year trailer... showing all the stuff argosy had... (which by the way we think that they took blems off the AS line and converted them to argosys... painted over the blem... and sold it that way...)

[GM Airstream]

Mudturtle...

If I were you I check out the existing water heater... if its Ok... and not leaking then I would go for one of the aftermarket electric heaters that goes into the drain plug hole...

If you want to replace the water heater with a dual system then I would go with the Attwood 6 gal manual type... it has a electric element in it along with the old reliable non electronic ignition system for propane.

I would not go with a only electric type... as its a camping trailer and sometime you may want to go camping /boondocking... either way you will need the propane section of the water heater as once off the grid your best bet is the propane.

Also... I would stick with the dometic refrig that uses elect /propane... and just make sure the trailer is level at the refrig . No matter what the others say about the all electric compressor types... you won't be happy with it.. too much noise and while its electric.. again camping you may want to use the propane while your off the grid kinda thing.

... also... I would check out the dometic cermaic extended height toilet... them old tedfords were made from plastic... and prone to cracking and leaking as they get older... as well as the water valves kinda get issues...
I replaced mine with a new one and its so much better.. including the fact that its oval...made for us older guys.. grin... It too should fit right back in.. where the old one came out.. you just need to turn the base plate about 30 deg to get the new bolts to line up with the old plate. A simple matter of making a span'er wrench out of a old 2x4 and some bit screw bolts without the heads on them...

Going to LED lights also is a great way to improve the OLD trailers... but, its expensive... however it does cut back on the current usage so the bat last longer when not on the grid...

You will know best as to which way to go... for its the money you put back in that drives the issues...

Hope this helps...

G.M>

[Mudturtle13]

Originally Posted by GM Airstream

Mudturtle...

If I were you I check out the existing water heater... if its Ok... and not leaking then I would go for one of the aftermarket electric heaters that goes into the drain plug hole...

If you want to replace the water heater with a dual system then I would go with the Attwood 6 gal manual type... it has a electric element in it along with the old reliable non electronic ignition system for propane.

I would not go with a only electric type... as its a camping trailer and sometime you may want to go camping /boondocking... either way you will need the propane section of the water heater as once off the grid your best bet is the propane.

Also... I would stick with the dometic refrig that uses elect /propane... and just make sure the trailer is level at the refrig . No matter what the others say about the all electric compressor types... you won't be happy with it.. too much noise and while its electric.. again camping you may want to use the propane while your off the grid kinda thing.

... also... I would check out the dometic cermaic extended height toilet... them old tedfords were made from plastic... and prone to cracking and leaking as they get older... as well as the water valves kinda get issues...
I replaced mine with a new one and its so much better.. including the fact that its oval...made for us older guys.. grin... It too should fit right back in.. where the old one came out.. you just need to turn the base plate about 30 deg to get the new bolts to line up with the old plate. A simple matter of making a span'er wrench out of a old 2x4 and some bit screw bolts without the heads on them...

Going to LED lights also is a great way to improve the OLD trailers... but, its expensive... however it does cut back on the current usage so the bat last longer when not on the grid...

You will know best as to which way to go... for its the money you put back in that drives the issues...

Hope this helps...

G.M>

Thank you I really appreciate it helps a ton pointing me in the right direction I did find out it’s a 72 I had originally thought it was a 78 but I will check it all out this weekend and see what’s gotta be replace

[Shacksman]

Originally Posted by Mudturtle13

Thank you I really appreciate it helps a ton pointing me in the right direction I did find out it’s a 72 I had originally thought it was a 78 but I will check it all out this weekend and see what’s gotta be replace

Follow that heavy copper wire back to where it's connected to the trailer frame. Most time it's in the back bumper area. It's the ground for the 12 volt. Clean that connection. A bad connection there will stop all 12 volt items from working.