Argosy Redo

[rugjenkins]

Finished installing ceiling lights, maxx fan trims, ac shroud. Also placed flooring underpayment.

[rugjenkins]

Placed new sheet vinyl flooring.

[DDickey]

You're moving right along, I like it!

[chrisetmike]

Originally Posted by rugjenkins

Placed new sheet vinyl flooring. Attachment 309533

I really like your floor lol. Great minds think alike, it looks like the exact same floor we have on our Overlander. We haven't put ours in yet. My husband has decided he wanted to polish interior skins.

[rugjenkins]

Chrisetmike,
I've been following your thread and your doing a great job. Stripping and polishing the interior skins is a major job. I looks awesome!

DDickey,
Thanks for the encouragement! I'm going to make mine look as amazing as yours. My wife likes new too. [emoji12]

[A-squared]

Hi. New follower. Great posts! Redoing our Argosy like you and seem to be following a parallel journey, but have a quick question.

We are about to reinstall the interior panels after rewiring and new insulation. At the base c-channel of the exterior panels there appears to be drain holes at specific intervals. Should I caulk the shut or are these still required or are they predrilled at time of manufacturing for connections to the base frame?

We have completely sealed the exterior panels. So virtually to moisture could conceivably enter the walls.

Any thoughts?

Adam

[rugjenkins]

They are there to help with condensation that can occur when it's hot or cold outside and you have the air conditioner or heater on. It's the same phenomenon that happens when drinking a cold soda in 90 weather. Unless you spray foamed for insulation you may want to leave them. Some have plugged them with epoxy then drilled out so they are waterproof.

[A-squared]

I agree. Most are plugged so clearing at least one per cavity should do the trick.

Thks.

Adam

[rugjenkins]

I'm ready to start the interior build out. My beautiful, encouraging and skilled wife has finished staining the endcaps. We (she) must have stained 2 dozen or more sample pieces to get the right color we wanted. We choose a light grey that brings out the grain and complements the floor. Waiting on her to poly the caps before I install them. We have taken a few weeks off to go camping with friends.[emoji33] I spent a week finishing off a punch list on the pop up! Everything I have learned about rebuilding a camper, I learned on the pop up![emoji41][emoji106]

[dhbinkley]

Hey Matt,
When you welded the tube steel where the U channel was, how did you support the plywood floor? Thinking of doing the same or something close and am lying in bed thinking of the best way to do it..

David

[rugjenkins]

The plywood sits inside of the perimeter band. Attached with elevator bolts and nylon nuts. The plywood mounts the same way if the u channel was still there, just 1 1/2 inch to the inside. Now I can remove my floor without lifting the shell. The only drawback is, I add about 300 pounds. I think it's worth it.

[my3sonsdad]

If your shell sits 3” higher, how did you address this when you did the interior skins? Doesn’t it leave the original skins 3” short? I like the water shedding design and definitely makes sense.

Did you fabricate new banana wraps that were 3” longer as well or just use longer sheets side to side for the bellypan?

[rugjenkins]

For the interior skins, I had to add the 3 inches to the original skins.
On the belly wraps I used new aluminum riveted under the shell to shed water. Then extended to the frame rails.
The banana wraps I tried to fabricate new ones that looked like the airstream exterior endcaps. It didn't work. I have since learned how to make a seamer/stretcher and could make some. I ended up patching and smoothing the originals . I add a strip of aluminum to the top. They came out great. I had a hole on each front banana wrap so one side got an Alabama patch and the other a Texas . I painted them gloss black. They look good and you have to look for the patches. I keep coming up with awesome and cool ideas and decided if I was going to finish this camper I needed to reuse some stuff.[emoji12] not much but some[emoji41]

[my3sonsdad]

What happened to your natural wood end caps?

[rugjenkins]

See post 169. My wife has stained and polyurethaned them. I'll install them next week.

[rugjenkins]

Endcaps are done. I wanted a little more protection on the back side so I Thompson water sealed them. I installed the front.

I also had a a leak near the front I was having a hard time finding, so I did a diy pressure test. I tape all the windows and door. I used masking tape. I wanted a tape that would not leave lots of residue to clean up. It worked great.
I had no leaks on the roof. My leaks were not where I thought they would be. The center tail lights leaked. The rear window edges need sealed and the belly wraps near the tops need sealing. That where my leak was near the front. Pretty easy to setup and find.

[dhbinkley]

Hey Matt, how much Por-15 did you use on the frame...getting ready to do mine and with the cost don't want to order to much.

Thanks ahead of time
David

[rugjenkins]

Buy the small 4oz cans. I used 1 1/2 pints if my memory is correct.

[chrisetmike]

I love your end cap. It looks really good. Can't wait to see your progress.

Now is where I sound like a complete newbie, can you explain how you do a pressure test? Does the pressure test show any unsealed rivets too? And at what stage of reno should it be done? Are we too far along for this step?

Thanks
Chris

[rugjenkins]

Originally Posted by chrisetmike

I love your end cap. It looks really good. Can't wait to see your progress.

Now is where I sound like a complete newbie, can you explain how you do a pressure test? Does the pressure test show any unsealed rivets too? And at what stage of reno should it be done? Are we too far along for this step?

Thanks
Chris

Thank you for the encouragement. I'm ready for the interior build out. Purchased an amazing vintage refrigerator-1955 General Electric. It's the perfect size, 24w x25d x55h. It's heavy though. 250 to 300 pounds. We want to paint all the appliances robin egg blue or turquoise.

For the pressure test: I sealed all the windows, hatches and door with masking tape. I had already installed maxair fans so I just closed them. I left one hatch off but taped a plastic garage bag over it. Then cut a small hole in the center and stuck my vacuum/blower through the trash bag. Turn it on. Works instantly. Make a bucket of soapy water. I used a soft car wash brush and washed it down. Yes it does reveal loose rivets. I was surprised where my leaks were. I had already sealed leaking rivets on top.

Works great. I had all the interior skins, endcaps and flooring installed. I used spray foam which does seal well but it is not 100% waterproof. The point is, if you have a leak even with your interior in it should find it. Harbor freight does sell a heavy duty fan/blower that would work well for this application if you don't have a big enough blower.

I have noticed that my these campers expand and contract with the different seasons. I have been sealing everything. I also may do the pressure test once a year during bath time.

Your camper looks amazing. I love the shiny aluminum with wood tones and vintage colors.