...and her name is Lucy.

[Duff23]

Originally Posted by DEITZ645

While you have the tank out it will be easy to sanitize it and check the tank and trailer for leaks.

I will take the opportunity to clean the tank out properly. I'm thinking about installing some thin slats of wood along the floor to allow a little circulation between the water tank and the floor. Any thoughts on this idea? I imagine someone else has already thought of this at some point.

[DEITZ645]

Originally Posted by Duff23

I'm baffled about the moisture under the tank.

Duff,
Is there any soft spots under the tank? Have you discovered any leaks in the tank that would account for the moisture on the floor?

Originally Posted by Duff23

I will take the opportunity to clean the tank out properly. I'm thinking about installing some thin slats of wood along the floor to allow a little circulation between the water tank and the floor. Any thoughts on this idea? I imagine someone else has already thought of this at some point.

How about using some of the pink or green "R" board stuff under and around the tank. Or maybe even something like Tyvek house wrap. I know that the tanks in our '87 and '06 are encased in white styrafoam, I assume to help insulate in cold weather and reduce condensation in warm weather. Then again our tanks are under slung under the floor in the belly pan. Where are the tanks in the Argosy?

How close are you to having her camp ready and have you name her yet? Our '87 is Savannah and our '06 is Katarina.

[Duff23]

Originally Posted by DEITZ645

Duff,
Is there any soft spots under the tank? Have you discovered any leaks in the tank that would account for the moisture on the floor?

There is an isolated soft spot (10" x 10") under the water fill. No, I haven't looked for leaks yet.

Originally Posted by DEITZ645

Then again our tanks are under slung under the floor in the belly pan. Where are the tanks in the Argosy?

The fresh water tank is on top of the floor just forward of the gaucho.

Originally Posted by DEITZ645

How close are you to having her camp ready and have you name her yet? Our '87 is Savannah and our '06 is Katarina.

That's a good question. I have all the parts to fix the plumbing issues that I know of...I'm working that now.

I have all the parts to redo the windows except for the Super Weatherstrip Adhesive...I'll work the windows when I find the adhesive. Can anyone tell me where to get it locally. Home Depot did not have it.

I purchased two vent pipe covers from Inland...they're in the mail.

I purchased 24 lug studs and 24 lug nuts from Prestige Wheel...they're in the mail. I'll repack the wheel bearings when I do that job.

I found a suitable remnant for the gaucho for $4/yard. Then dropped it all off with the most reasonable upholsterer...I'll have that back on Friday.

The first camping trip is planned for next Saturday...I'm feeling the pinch.

Her name is Lucy, hence the title of this thread.

Thanks for asking.

[DEITZ645]

Originally Posted by Duff23

There is an isolated soft spot (10" x 10") under the water fill. No, I haven't looked for leaks yet.

Look at Minwax wood hardener, available at Home Depot; it stinks a lot, but works like a charm. The smell dissipates pretty quick.

Originally Posted by Duff23

The fresh water tank is on top of the floor just forward of the gaucho.

Take a look outside the trailer at the trim that covers where the trailer body meets the lower wrap. Make sure there are no gaps that may introduce water. The basic construction of Airstreams and Argosys are conducive to leaks. The body of the trailer is set on the floor and the belly pan and wrap are installed next and overlap the trailer body on the outside. So any water running down the trailer body will find a gap and end up inside the trailer or bellypan.

Originally Posted by Duff23

That's a good question. I have all the parts to fix the plumbing issues that I know of...I'm working that now.

Did you get a new pump, or are you rebuilding the original?

Originally Posted by Duff23

I have all the parts to redo the windows except for the Super Weatherstrip Adhesive...I'll work the windows when I find the adhesive. Can anyone tell me where to get it locally. Home Depot did not have it.

I purchased two vent pipe covers from Inland...they're in the mail.

I purchased 24 lug studs and 24 lug nuts from Prestige Wheel...they're in the mail. I'll repack the wheel bearings when I do that job.

I found a suitable remnant for the gaucho for $4/yard. Then dropped it all off with the most reasonable upholsterer...I'll have that back on Friday.

The first camping trip is planned for next Saturday...I'm feeling the pinch.

Well it looks like you have everything in line, now it is just a matter of finding the time, right?

Originally Posted by Duff23

Her name is Lucy, hence the title of this thread.

DOHHHH!!!!

Originally Posted by Duff23

Thanks for asking.

You're welcome.

[Duff23]

Originally Posted by DEITZ645

Look at Minwax wood hardener, available at Home Depot; it stinks a lot, but works like a charm. The smell dissipates pretty quick.

I'll pick it up tomorrow.

Originally Posted by DEITZ645

Take a look outside the trailer at the trim that covers where the trailer body meets the lower wrap. Make sure there are no gaps that may introduce water.

I see a gap that looks just partially filled with silicone and coincidentally right near the filler cap.

Originally Posted by DEITZ645

Did you get a new pump, or are you rebuilding the original?

I'm going to wait to get the plumbing back together to see if it works.

Originally Posted by DEITZ645

Well it looks like you have everything in line, now it is just a matter of finding the time, right?

Oh, and I need to get to DMV to get it registered.

What about the Super Weatherstip Adhesive...any leads?...or perhaps a Home Depot alternative?

[Argonaut20]

Try an auto supply store for the adhesive.

[DEITZ645]

Originally Posted by Duff23

I see a gap that looks just partially filled with silicone and coincidentally right near the filler cap.

Duff,
GET RID OF THE SILICONE!!! And replace with the correct sealant. Silicone seems to be a no-no on RV's. Do a Google search for...

silicone site:www.airforums.com

and you will find LOTS of threads cursing the stuff and the correct sealant to use...parbond / vulkem.

Good luck at the DMV.

[3Ms75Argosy]

My 2 cents... the moisture could be from the front window... driving through rain could force the water through, and sit under the freshwater tank? Other than a leak from the tank (which I think unlikely), the window is my thought... or, leaking from the fresh water intake hose which might be cracked?
Checking in from Europe! (No AS noted around here...)
Marc

[Duff23]

Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

My 2 cents... the moisture could be from the front window... driving through rain could force the water through, and sit under the freshwater tank? Other than a leak from the tank (which I think unlikely), the window is my thought... or, leaking from the fresh water intake hose which might be cracked?
Checking in from Europe! (No AS noted around here...)
Marc

...but again, it's been sitting under a carport for 4 weeks. In light of the DEITZ's silicone comment I went out and looked the trailer over for gaps and what they are filled with. It looks like I have a combination of silicone (which is easy to spot) and some other stuff which looks more yellowish and not spongy like silicone. Based on what I've read I need to remove all silicone and replace with Vulkem or Parr Bond...but based on the volume of sealing I'll be doing I'll probably choose the Vulkem (comes in big tube).

I also saw some silicone remover on the Vintage Trailer Parts website. Does anyone have experience with that?...or can I make do with something from Home Depot?

Thanks for checking in from across the pond! Remember...drink "bottled" water...I've learned that lesson twice already!

[vhord]

Originally Posted by Duff23

I also saw some silicone remover on the Vintage Trailer Parts website. Does anyone have experience with that?...or can I make do with something from Home Depot?

I haven't used the remover from VTS but what I stock in my hardware store does soften the silicone but you still have to scrape it off. That stuff a b*t*h!

[DEITZ645]

Duff,
Any status / progress update? I hope everything is going smoothly.

[Duff23]

Originally Posted by DEITZ645

Duff,
Any status / progress update? I hope everything is going smoothly.

Progess?...yes, albeit slow. I received the gaucho back from the upholsterer today, I think it looks great...I definitely maintained the retro feel of a vintage coach. I'll show that to you once I finish working the front floor.

I also applied the MinWax Floor Hardener to the soft areas of the floor today...we'll see how that feels once it cures.

I removed the kitchen window in preparation for new guides, fuzzy seal, and D-seal. I had forgotten that I gave my rivet gun to somebody a while back (never thought I'd need it) so I need to go get another one now that I have this project.

I've attached a picture of the sealant used above all six windows on my rig. I'm not sure what it is but it doesn't look like silicone.

I also attached a picture of the seam under the fresh water fill where I think rain water was getting in. I noticed that there is a popped rivet on the metal wrap (what are those metal wrap around bands called?) that's allowing the separation. I'm assuming the correct course of action is to replace the rivet and then seal with Vulkem or Parr Bond (both of which I happened to purchase from my local Airstream dealer in Waterbury, CT, last Friday).

[DEITZ645]

Looking Good

Originally Posted by Duff23

Progess?...yes, albeit slow. I received the gaucho back from the upholsterer today, I think it looks great...I definitely maintained the retro feel of a vintage coach. I'll show that to you once I finish working the front floor.

Can’t wait to see the pictures.

Originally Posted by Duff23

I also applied the MinWax Floor Hardener to the soft areas of the floor today...we'll see how that feels once it cures.

You may need two applications. I had a soft spot under the city water line in our ’87 about the size of a hard ball and I used two cans in the entire compartment and it is as hard as stone now.

Originally Posted by Duff23

I removed the kitchen window in preparation for new guides, fuzzy seal, and D-seal. I had forgotten that I gave my rivet gun to somebody a while back (never thought I'd need it) so I need to go get another one now that I have this project.

Never lend out tools

Originally Posted by Duff23

I've attached a picture of the sealant used above all six windows on my rig. I'm not sure what it is but it doesn't look like silicone.

That is the factory vulkem I believe. You can remove and re-seal them with new vulkem, but if they aren’t leaking then you may also want to leave them alone.

Originally Posted by Duff23

I also attached a picture of the seam under the fresh water fill where I think rain water was getting in. I noticed that there is a popped rivet on the metal wrap (what are those metal wrap around bands called?) that's allowing the separation. I'm assuming the correct course of action is to replace the rivet and then seal with Vulkem or Parr Bond (both of which I happened to purchase from my local Airstream dealer in Waterbury, CT, last Friday).

This is most definitely where you are getting water leakage. Get that rivet replaced and then seal the gap. The trim strip is called the lower rub strip. The corners are called banana wraps and curved sections under the rub strip are called the lower wrap which extend down to the belly pan.

[Duff23]

Hi all, just a quick question. The lug nuts I had ordered for my Argosy were backordered. At the time I thought it was prudent to buy the bulge type acorn nuts for the extra strength they provide. Now that they're backordered I'm wondering if I should find an alternate supplier for the bulge type nuts or just go with the standard conical seat acorn nut.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Duff

[DEITZ645]

Duff,
I think the conical lugs would be OK for Lucy.

I saw in another thread that you are dragging you heals on your project. Well this is you daily dose of encouragement to get out there and get Lucy into camping trim

[Duff23]

Whew!...it's been a while since I've touched this thing. I was away on vacation up on Campobello Island in Canada. It was supposed to be the inaugural trip with Lucy but that didn't materialize. I saw an endless number of SOB's during the drive (~1000 miles round trip) but not a single Airstream...not ONE! I find that amazing. Anyway, onto the task at hand.

What size rivets are used to fasten the rub strip? I have 1/8" and they don't seem to fit, but maybe the head popped off the rivet leaving the shank in the hole and I need to drill it out before fitting the rivet.

Has anyone experience with the replacement vent pipe covers? They are not the same size as the originals and am wondering what is the best way to proceed. Should I just a) fill in the old holes, b) center the new cover, c) mark the new holes, d) drill out new holes and e) install the new cover?

I finally fixed the copper lines under the kitchen sink and tried filling the lines with water. I had two geysers spewing from the water heater. I flipped the handle on one and it stopped but I couldn't budge the other little T-handle. I'm not familiar with the components of the water heater so I don't know how to describe it. I'll try to post a picture later.

[Argonaut20]

1/8 " rivets on the rub rail sounds right. If a 1/8" bit doesn't slide in, there is still part of the rivet there. Drill it out. Probably medium length for the rivet, too.

Sounds like a plan for the vent pipe covers.

Those little drain valves get corroded and hard to turn. Try a pair of pliers as a lever to get the handle to turn. If it is too stubborn, the valve can be removed by unscrewing it from the heater. Replacements can be found at a hardware store or an auto parts store (radiator drain valve).

[Duff23]

Originally Posted by Argonaut20

1/8 " rivets on the rub rail sounds right. If a 1/8" bit doesn't slide in, there is still part of the rivet there. Drill it out.

Thanks, I'll drill it.

Originally Posted by Argonaut20

Sounds like a plan for the vent pipe covers.

Yep, but you have to wonder why the designers didn't use the same hole pattern.

Originally Posted by Argonaut20

Those little drain valves get corroded and hard to turn. Try a pair of pliers as a lever to get the handle to turn. If it is too stubborn, the valve can be removed by unscrewing it from the heater. Replacements can be found at a hardware store or an auto parts store (radiator drain valve).

I'll try that tomorrow.

[Duff23]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

The screen fuzzy seal has been used by Airstream, for almost 40 years.

Considering the job it does, it's a lot better than any rubber product or plastic product, and is cheap, especially since is lasts 20 years or more, and makes a positive seal against flying insects.

Airstream used a plastic seal in 1969. At best, it was a joke, but did some what of a job.

What would you suggest as an improvement?

Andy

I finally finished a window...the fuzzy seal is great. I officially rescind my previous comment about it being an outdated design.

I also replaced a few rivets and ran a bead of Parr Bond along the rub rail on the front of the trailer. I don't think one of my rivets is doing anything...I couldn't apply enough pressure to compress the back side of the rub rail for the rivet to grab the skin of the trailer. What do you do when this happens?

Also, it looks like the rubber gasket on the outer edge of the front window has fallen in between the window and window frame in a couple of spots. This looks like a good place for water to get in. What should I fill this void with?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Duff23

I finally finished a window...the fuzzy seal is great. I officially rescind my previous comment about it being an outdated design.

I also replaced a few rivets and ran a bead of Parr Bond along the rub rail on the front of the trailer. I don't think one of my rivets is doing anything...I couldn't apply enough pressure to compress the back side of the rub rail for the rivet to grab the skin of the trailer. What do you do when this happens?

Also, it looks like the rubber gasket on the outer edge of the front window has fallen in between the window and window frame in a couple of spots. This looks like a good place for water to get in. What should I fill this void with?

Use longer rivets. If the rivet hole has been enlarged, then add rivets close to the problem rivet and then seal in place the rivet that won't stay.

Window gaskets, door gaskets, etc, should be replaced about every 15 to 20 years, depending on the climate.

Sewer vent pipe gaskets should be replaced about every 5 to 6 years.

Andy