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Biggmixx · 08-31-2020, 08:33 PM

I am now an owner of a 22 footer. Its one of those rare rear single axle models. Tongue weight is off the charts but the good news is you can't put too much weight on the back. But really its going to get about 2 feet shorter once I free the rest from the axle plates. I one picture you can see a pile of rusty metal that has come off the trailer. The side rails are sitting off to the right...have to recover some outriggers for reuse.

The cross members are welded in on the front half and primered for when the rain eventually falls again. One mistake I made was forgetting to drill a hole for brake wiring in one of the cross members. The front plate is just sitting there for when I go back.

A question I have regarding this large piece of about 1/2 inch thick c channel in the back. It comes after a regular cross member that was corroded out. I am thinking it was a temporary fix added in some time before I owned it. The other picture is with the corroded cross member removed. I could be wrong and it something structural Airstream added but the material is so different than everything else used. It's reusable but I don't think its necessary. What do you think is it original or an aftermarket?

Axles are ordered and should be here in 4-6 weeks. The F250 is with the mechanic getting fixed. Will order the second gray water tank mostly likely tomorrow. Had to do several final measurements before I cut the back end off. I need to cut notches for the levelers. I also need to cut an opening for the gray tank. Airstream cut a 1'x6" opening which is way too big and just makes a place for critters to get in. I will have to talk with Inca to find out what my options are.

Biggmixx · 09-02-2020, 10:12 PM

It was a struggle but I got the axle plate loose without damaging it. There was a lot of rust between the frame rail and the axle plate. Grinder and wire wheel made short work of it. Plate bowed out to the left in a slight arc. Lots of spot welding and clamps to hold everything in place while matching up. I noticed when setting the rails that there was a problem. The rail was level with the rest of the trailer. But the axle plate which had been consistent in it height along the old rail was now off by an inch. I had the second axle out so maybe the plate had collapse at the axle mount. Checked the opening and it wasn't the problem. I remembered taking the shell off that the rear end came apart with a little force of its own. I figured at the time it was due to end separation. I used c clamps to try to lift the plate but it was solid. In the end I preloaded the back rail by 1/8 and inch over 2 feet. The level is pretty close to right on. The last thing I will do it weld the lower "drag plate" at the bumper end, place a jack on that end and then weld the plate on the axle plate under the load. Don't know if it will make much of a difference but I don't think it will hurt.

My trailer was briefly down to 18 feet but has now returned to it 30 (actually 28 7/8). I still have to finish welding in the street side and remove the old rail from the curb side. I have figured out how to get the rails off the plates easier so it shouldn't take as long.

No ideas on the thick C channel in the back? I spent some computer time searching pictures but haven't seen anything like it. Maybe I will repurposed as a super anti-rear separation device. Since my rear plate fell out when I was lifting the shell. I could attach the belly pan to it since I am redesigning the rear trunk anyways. I'll figure it out when I get to it.

Dave

Biggmixx · 09-06-2020, 09:44 PM

The second rail is welded in and soaking in zinc. Everything came out the way it was suppose to. I am glad for the practice at the front cross members because the welds came out nice without a lot of regrinding. Sometimes I am my own worst enemy. I be welding along laying out a great bead and figure lets keep going around the bend and get it done all in one shot. It would then blow out because I overheated the metal and mess up the work. I remember the time I was in the service and the dock workers would weld a small bit and take a break. As a fire watch I though gosh these guys take a lot of breaks. I would like to apologize to them now for thinking they were slacking union guys.

Next is more cross members. Once I square up the back section then I will remove the last old cross member. Then I will box the area I welded the frames together for added strength.

Dave

Biggmixx · 09-21-2020, 09:38 PM

I am still here and working away. Had some delays. The wildfires here in Washington burned down my mother's barn, well house and killed 6 of her 7 horses. I went to help her for a bit. When I came back the smoke was so bad that I didn't work outside for a few days.

I did get all the cross members welded in. I kept 1 original cross member at the center. It was in good shape but I did notice that it was 1/2 inch off. Drove me crazy thinking I made a mistake somewhere. But no, it was crooked from the factory. The old frame could be shimmied from side to side. The new frame is much stiffer.

The channel coat came in and I soaked the A frame and box channels. The stuff is as bad as Por 15. Very messy but it did a great job coating. I primered the frame to prevent rusting at the weld joints. The center stringers are next. Got to cut the notches in the cross members and weld the tubing in place.

Dave

Krek · 09-22-2020, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biggmixx

The other thing that popped into my mind was this trailer has lasted for 42 years the way it was built. If I do this right it would last another 40 or so which will put me in my 90s.

We are of a similar vintage and mindset.. I figure I have a 20 year window to enjoy this camper and while we want to “do it right” I don’t want to spend the first five years of that window renovating instead of camping.

You’re doing a great job, looking forward to following your progress!

Biggmixx · 09-29-2020, 08:58 PM

Thanks Krek. Compared to your project...mine is a piece of cake. That trailer of yours is huge.

Not much new here. Got the center stringers in. Laying out the outriggers. Their paint job is so bad will probably have to strip them down and repaint them for better protection. Might be short an outrigger since one I had planned on reusing has rust cancer. Will see if I can scavenge one from my old frame rail. My axles should be arriving within the next 2 weeks.

I will Por 15 the frame after everything is welded on. Still a little more wire brushing to do around where the last axle is.

Dave

kevinkatz · 09-29-2020, 10:19 PM

watching you guys do this with great interest and admiration. doing a great job. i am about 9 months ahead of you on my 49 curtis wright. i saw a reference to 1/2" coosa board. i used coosa board and think that it is worth every penny but will throw out some tips. i used 3/4" and would recommend that for sure. it is flexible and the joints definitely have to be at a supporting cross member. i landed up welding in some 2x4 purlins that i laid flat so that they were 4" across. it supported the floor really well and has turned out to be excellent for screwing cabinets etc into a very sturdy material.
the other comment i have is that you may want to consider tanks deeper than 5" for obvious reasons. in all the new airstreams i see tanks hanging under the bellypan. going to a 7" tank gives you way more capacity especially if you arent exactly level.
just my thoughts and hope they help but dont offend because i see that y'all are true craftsmen.

MTDSilver71 · 10-01-2020, 06:18 AM

Hey Dave

I have been following your thread. Great work! I can only hope my efforts will be like yours. I will be renovating our 71 Safari over the next year or so, more than likely a full Monty.

I have been having a similar issue with Colin. You mentioned “six-robblies” as a source for axles that worked with you. How do I get in touch with them (or he or she) to get the process started?

Thanks. Looking forward to the rest of your renovation!

Ted

57Vintage · 10-01-2020, 08:45 AM

Six Robblees are on the west coast.

https://sixrobblees.com/locations

MTDSilver71 · 10-01-2020, 11:49 AM

Thank you 57Vintage!

Biggmixx · 10-01-2020, 06:31 PM

Greeting all. Nothing new to post. Been doing those other choirs like yard work, vehicle servicing, and jobs for my better half. That way I can play with my trailer on the weekend. Fall is coming and I want to try to get the frame back under the shell before the weather turns.

kevinkatz I am not an easy person to offend and I love input. Everything I have done so far is based on input from these forums. I have considered Coosa board during my planning phase. I researched it and found a local supplier. It is mainly the cost. With a 30 footer that 8 sheets of this stuff at a bit over $200 each. That is if I make no mistakes. I keep my trailer in a shop so the exposure is less than if it will be sitting in my driveway. It would be great to have a forever floor but my frame didn't last that long so I'd be tearing in out(in my 90s) anyways to fix the frame again. With your Curtis it makes sense with the tubular frame saving weight is important and worth it.
The tanks is my next big process. The cavity I have for it is 7 inches from channel rail to the bottom of the lower rail. I have to subtract 1 inch for the center stringers and probably another 1/4 to 1/2 for insulation and padding. I have been through Inca's catalogue looking for the best fit. I want to use as much space that I can to obtain the best volume. But I don't want my outlet pipes to be any closer to the ground than the bottom of the frame. I had problems hooking up with the pipe facing down and want to do a straight shot out with the new tank. I don't want to take anything out with a curb stop, stump or rock while backing up. Unfortunately I didn't measure where my black tank came out of the floor so I am still working out the alignment issue (why you can see my black tank sitting by the garage door in some pictures).

Ted I went to the Dexter site and found a local dealer. In my case it was Six Robblees. I would choose a local dealer closer to you in SC so you can pick them up instead of having dropped shipped to your house. The ordering of the axles wasn't too complicated. They sent me the standardized Dexter form used in ordering. You can pretty much get all the measurements you need while it is still on the trailer. You'll have to remove a set of wheels for the hub face measurement. I clamped some wood that extended past the drums and measured between them. I changed the axles from 2600 to 3500 to accommodate the added metal in the frame, tank and solar. The guys in the parts department helped with the last few questions I had. Now mind you I don't have the axles yet so I don't know if I messed something up...but I doubt it.

Dave

MTDSilver71 · 10-02-2020, 05:07 AM

Thanks Dave! Went to the Dexter site and found two dealers within an hours travel. I’ll be speaking with them today and requesting one of those order forms.

kevinkatz · 10-02-2020, 08:52 AM

I spoke to an engineer at Dexter. He sent me their order form filled out with all the exact details and information about clearances and heights. I took that form to a local dealer who ordered the axle for me. Worked out really well.

Biggmixx · 10-25-2020, 11:07 AM

Glad you all are able to easily source the axles near you. Seems like the hardest part so far of that process is waiting for them. Mines should be here on the week of the 2nd.

Now I am working around the weather. Hard to weld when its raining. The first picture I have installed the extra stringers above where the tanks will go. It was my largest unsupported gap between crossmembers. Since I am going to relocated batteries somewhere near there, I wanted the little bit extra just in case.

Next the frame is primed for the most part. There is an outrigger not primed. I replaced that a few years back. The shell was on then and I was worried I would set something on fire welding it in then. Now that everything is off, I can see that it is crooked and the weld could be better. It also had a notch at the top for some reason that I will have to seal up. But I have to take the last axle off to get at it. I will do that when I flip the frame. If you look at the door entering the shop you can see the wiring has arrived for the interior sitting on the floor.

The next picture is where I boxed the frame. It was where the new frame rails attached to the old frame. That pretty much completes the frame welding. There are some places I want to look at when the frame is flipped and the couple of surfaces the belly wraps connects to that still have to have metal welded on. There may also be some bracket welding for the new tank as well. Now that I type it all out it seems like I still have a lot of welding left to do.

The last picture is of the step. The step outriggers were welded in back when the shell was on a few years back. With the shell off I was able to level the whole step area and replace the outer riggers that had rusted. I was then able to weld on the upper still plate and space the step riggers so the step operates smoothly. When I flip the frame, I will run another weld on the step rigger to replace the previous weld.

The next step to take will be to Por 15 the frame. The weather is not cooperating by being too cold at the moment. When it warms up I will jump on that.

Dave

Biggmixx · 11-03-2020, 05:34 PM

Just a little update. My frame and I are Por 15ed. I am getting ready to flip the frame but it currently pouring down rain so I am waiting. I am trying to keep my gantries dry for the most part and re-store them while I work on the underside.

My axles are suppose to be here this week. Not ready to install them but it would be nice to have them waiting. That reminds me...where am I going to store them. Suppose I should use some of this time to clean the shop. So much easier to find tools that way.

Time to stop posting and get to cleaning.

Dave

Ky76Argosy · 11-05-2020, 07:37 AM

Labor of Love. Good to know big bro to my 76 Argosy 26 getting TLC and needed needed attention. Always know the oldies are the reason for such great AS ownership growth and followers. Plus Argosy are personalized. Be Safe.

Biggmixx · 11-08-2020, 07:16 PM

Hey Mitch why don't we stretch your 26 an extra 4 feet...I've got the tools.

So my axle order has turned into an adventure in itself. I ordered them from Six-Robblees. The parts guy who took my order went on vacation and it added in an extra 2 weeks. So the order went in and I was told due to covid might take a couple of extra weeks. No problem, should be here about the time I need them. The shipment shipped on Oct 23 and that I can expect to pick up on Nov 2. On Nov 3 I hadn't received a call so I called them. Oh the "can" hadn't arrived yet should be in within the next day or so. A couple of day later they were still missing the shipment and would call me to let me know what was up. The next day I called again and got a different guy so I told him about my 2 missing axles. He determined the shipment was still at the rail yard but it was only 1 axle...they only ordered 1. They are going to speed order the other one. Needless to say I still don't have any axles. Sigh...

Its not going to get me down. I've got other things to do. Its time for the flip. I broke the gantries out and set them up for a lift. I had welded that mystery I beam I mentioned a few post ago to the last 2 cross members. I took a piece of ABS pipe and slid it over the I beam. I then took a strap and placed it behind the tongue jack with a piece of wood to keep it from sliding off. I took off the last axle. My wife came out to help. I gave her a 2x4 and told her to push from the high side. I kept an eye on the chain falls. She pushed it over until I could catch it from the other side. Once leveled upside down, I put a couple of saw horses under to rest on.

The flip went easier than I thought it would. The only thing I noticed on pick up was the spot where the c clamps were at. In a earlier picture I had posted it as a buckle in the frame. It was only on the top part of the C channel. I had planned to box the area but had forgotten about it. Considered reminded. The shocks were in sad shape. I was going to drop the axle and remove the shocks from it. They snapped right off. The nuts were so rusted that the 3/4 nut pictured had rusted down to 1/2 inch. With a bit of work, I was able to remove the nuts without damaging the studs. The outrigger under it is the one I need to redo. The lower plate on the tongue jack is rusted to nothing. Going to have to replace that too.

Dave

Biggmixx · 11-15-2020, 05:01 PM

Not much new to post. I spend a lot of time dodging the weather. The last week has been pretty solid with the rain. In the gantry picture you can see my break in the weather which still leaves a lot to be desired. Welders and water don't mix.

I had to take the frame off the gantries. I pulled my welder cord out and found it lacking. I figured I could lower onto my vehicle dollies and move it back. But I discovered the front plate that I had welded in would be in the way. I finally figured I would put the axle back under the frame. Of course the axle plates and mounting bolts are on the top. So I used a couple of quick clamps to hook the axle brackets to the frame rail. I then rolled the frame back into welder cord range.

Spent the next few days welding the underside of stringers and crossmembers that still need to be welded. Dodging the rain to be safe. The last outrigger was cut off and rewelded properly. If you order the outriggers, the ones for the wheel wells have notches in them. On my the notches aren't necessary so I had to modify them to close the gap. If I was going to do this over again I would get the solid ones. They still need to be modified to clear the 1/4 inch axle plate but it much easier to remove than it is to add.

So now everything is primed up and I am waiting for a warmer day to paint the Por 15. The last 2 wedge shaped outriggers on the very far end are not installed yet. The new channel for the shell is different than the original. It wraps around the back deck. I want to position the last outriggers where they will be able to support the rear C channel(more like an F channel now).
Got to cut some holes for the brake wiring and get that run. And tanks are next on the horizon.

Dave

Biggmixx · 12-07-2020, 09:20 PM

Greeting again. Progress has slowed down a bit. The days have become really short and by the time I get off work I have just a hour and 1/2 of daylight. Waiting on parts but I got good news on that front...got my axles finally. They came fully assembled and even had the shock brackets welded on. Haven't had the chance to really check them out because its dark outside now.

So what have I've been doing in the mean time. Well I have welded the back flat metal for the belly pan mounting. I've welded in the metal angle that supports the inside of the rear banana wraps skin. Cut the hole for the old tank outlet. Had to remove a crossmember above the old tank because it had an inch interference with the old tank inlet. I decided to leave it off since it will be under the shower and sink area and won't be prone to someone stepping in the area. The frame is Por 15. The first coat went on fine and black as sin. When I applied the second coat near the end of the day it was getting colder. The next day when I checked it, it had a thin gray sheen on it. I can wipe it off and it would be black underneath and its dried hard and solid. So I will leave it since it will all be covered by the belly skins. Also I ran out of the paint. So the only thing I have left to frame paint is the tongue, the lower back rails and some pockets near the old axle. I have more paint and those areas will get sunlight exposure so I will top coat it when I paint them.

The first picture is just the old tank sitting in its void with its angle panel. I have been kicking around the idea of taking it out. The tank is about 12 gallons and is hardly worth the effort of mating it to the 33 gallon new tank. But then again I am greedy for gray tank capacity and can't really use the void for anything else since the axle is below it. Having 45 gallons would hold 2 full fresh water tanks. Will have to think on that more.

The second picture is of the 33 gallon gray tank. It sitting in the void it will occupy. The bottom of the tank is inside the lower rails which is what I wanted. The tank comes with tank level indicators which is something my trailer never had. My friends always seems to have trouble with theirs so I never put much stock into it. I have time to think on it some more. The parts are coming for the tank so I haven't tried to install anything yet. I figured it's easier to dry fit everything before I start drilling holes and making brackets. I also want to make the exit opening a bit of a better fit than what was there. I am sure that is how the skeleton rat got into the trailer to begin with. I want to make a better interface with the outside belly pan too. The old system was just a hack up belly pan with a flap that never closed. I am sure I can do better than that.

The last picture is of the new axles. I used the gantry to get them out of the truck and the body dollies to roll next to the frame. You can really see the shock brackets but they are there. It also seems like the mounting plate bracket is taller than the old one. Will check it against the old ones. I think I will start off mounting the front axle. That way I can square it against the hitch so the trailer tracks right.

Right now there is a solid stream of parts coming. Everything from wiring, grommets, sewage fittings, insulation, tongue plate, and fasteners. I use the down time to work on the other stuff around the house and do some Christmas shopping. It's also starting to get cold outside too. But there is still a lot to do before I can get it back inside.

Dave

Biggmixx · 01-11-2021, 09:05 PM

The holidays are over and the days are getting longer...now if it would stop raining and get a bit warmer. It did stop for a couple of days and I took advantage of getting the tank frame welded in. I figured when the tank was full it was almost 275 pounds. I didn't think a couple of bolts in the stringers would provide enough support so I made a frame. The tank slides in it nice and if ever I need to remove it, it would be possible. The short plates would bolt to the frame through the tank lip. The long angle piece will bolt to the angle brackets with a sheet of 1/4 styro between it and the tank.

The connection between the tanks required a bit of work. I wanted to use a rubber bushing going into the new tank. I cut the hole and put the bushing in. the tank started a curve on the bottom but I still had enough lip for it and it seemed to fit right in. I then inserted the pipe. It was very tight but I was able to work it in. I though it was slick and a pretty simple install and all I needed to do was test it for leaks. It leaked. It was a very slow leak but it leaked. I was able to get it to stop if I used gasket sealer but I figured with vibration sooner or later it would return. So I pulled it and patched it and started over with a ABS ring instead. No leaks. The old tank was a 2 inch pipe. I didn't run it to the new tank since the 1 1/2 barely fit on the tank wall. A rubber reducer was used which provides for a bit of flexibility at the joint. I used a 3 inch rubber bushing where the pipe passed through the crossmember. So now both tanks are in. The plumbing for the gray will require coordination with the black tank. I don't want to cut a 1 foot opening like airstream did originally. I'll need to look at the belly wrap too since it was hacked all up.

I did drill out the runs for the brake wiring and installed new grommets. The insulation is ready to put in but I want to make sure I can get it installed and covered. I read on the product that it was moisture resistant and not moisture proof so I don't want to install and then have it rained on.

The next dry days will see the tongue plate welded on. I need to remember to put in new ground points for the electrical because I can see me forgetting it. I want to align the new axle while the frame is upside down because I think it would be easier and a better job if it happen then. If it warms back up a bit more than I will Por the sunlight exposed areas of the skid frame and the wheel wells.

Dave