1978 30' Argosy Remodel - Here we go!

[Markeyro]

Russ, sounds good, i'll send you some pics of what i've got if and i'd be happy to part those out to you. Off the top of my head, bathtub, sink, toilet, cabinets etc. I'll work on pics.
Feel free to PM with an email that's good to catch you at. Glad you caught me before i destroyed anything!

As a side note, got the seller down to 400 bucks on this unit, I was pretty psyched!

Thanks,
mark

[Russ G]

My email is rgerber@hotmail.com

[Markeyro]

Question about my fridge.

Hey there all, question about my Dometic RM100 gas/electric fridge. She no workey.

Won't fire up electric, and I'm assuming not with propane either. She is in rough shape inside which i'm confident that I could correct with some cleaning, paint and love. So I'm not concerned about that. But I do need her to work.

So first question: to repair or not to repair? Clearly these new gas/electric fridges are CRAZY expensive!!! Anyone have any leads on a cheap supplier for these guys? If not and I am looking to repair, any leads along those lines would be appreciated too. I am in Indiana and I know that shipping / delivery become issues with these not small items, like fridges.

Thoughts would be appreciated. Also some shots are attached.

Thanks, mark

[crispyboy]

You have quite a project ahead of you but it should be a lot of fun.

If your going to change the interior I would study some of the old Airstream floor plans for some ideas on where the bathroom should be located and placement of the 3 tanks.
On my 94 - 30' trailer the fresh water is between the axles, black tank is just behind axles, and the gray tank was behind the black tank. I had an 89 - 29' trailer where the black and gray tank were just the opposite.
Definitely use the BAL jacks.
When you start replacing the floor you will need to take the lower belt line loose and aluminum panel below that. This is also a good time to take care of rust on the frame and put in new insulation. There is a good chance some out riggers may need to be replaced. How are your welding skills?
Since your in Muncie, Indiana I would do some research on the RV salvage yards and other places near Elkhart that may have some new appliances. You can probably get these at a decent price in that area. At this point it probably not worth the trouble or expense to rehab the old ones unless your trying to remain original. Been there, done that.
When your building the cabinets, think along the lines of lightweight yet sturdy. When you get finished inside the trailer I would take it somewhere and have it weighed. Your going to need new axles and you may need to upgrade the weight rating of the axles. Airstream seemed to use about a combined axle rating of about 90% of the GVW figuring about 10% as tongue weight. Leave enough weight rating for at least 1500 lbs of camping gear, water, propane etc.... over and above the dry weight of the trailer. My guess is that you will probably be in the neighborhood of 3600 lb axles, could be a little higher when your finished..

[DKB_SATX]

Regarding the refrigerator specifically: You say it doesn't "fire up" on electrical power. Have you determined whether or not the electric heating element is getting hot? If that heating element is working but the refrigerator isn't cooling, your best option is likely a replacement fridge. If you have electric power to the fridge but that heating element isn't heating, it's POSSIBLE that a relatively cheap fix will get you going.

[Markeyro]

Crispyboy and DKB_SATX,

Thanks for the response and the feedback. Yeah, lots and lots to do. I'm about a third done stripping back all the interior and hope to finish that out here in the coming 2 days. Found someone who is interested in the old bathroom so that should help us both out.

I will be replacing my outriggers, totally rusted out, and was looking at the BAL jacks and had one question. I've found the telescoping BAL jacks that are like the originals, individuals, but also found some BAL jacks that come as a pair mounted on one long "frame". So they come as a set of 2 and I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with these. Here is a link:

BAL Telescopic Stabilizing Jack, 24" Leg - BAL 24830 - Stabilizing Jacks - Camping World

vs. the singles:
4 Long Shank Stabilizing BAL Jack 400093 [400093] - $297.20 : Out-of-Doors Mart!, More Airstream Parts on-line than anyone!

In regard to the placement of the remodeled bath, i've received differing opinions ( shocker i know). I would kind of like to move the bath midships, but realize that this would necessitate moving some tanks which I'm not sure I even want to mess with. I'm a 6'3" dude, and the corner shower location is a little more than inconvenient for me. I just don't fit into that corner standing up. There are some things I could do to make it work in the rear configuration, but wonder if anyone could speak to the foolishness of attempting to move that baby to the middle and either doing a split bath option or simply one bathroom roughly over the axles.

Sounds like I've got some searching to do as it relates to my fridge options. Will do. I'll get it pulled out here in the next couple days and see what I can / can't get it to do.

New axles for sure, but I'm waiting till I get a little closer to the end so that I don't have new axles sitting in my driveway for a year before I'm ready to roll.

I've got some good cabinet ideas and am excited to build and engineer those guys, should be fun. It'll be good to look around the forums and see what I can see.

Thanks for all the input, I hope to post several other questions tonight along the lines of some electrical questions and then also some plumbing/fresh water tank questions.

Appreciate the feedback,
mark

[DKB_SATX]

The special thing about the long-shank BAL stabilizers for Airstreams is that the end of the rod is accessible without crawling under the trailer. It's easy to put a drill motor on it and crank down the stabilizers.

Re: moving to a mid bath: Remember that the shower will still be at the side, so the ceiling will still encroach on headroom somewhat. Putting in all that effort and finding out that the gain was negligible might be frustrating. See if you can find a narrowbody trailer with a mid bath to see if the shower headroom is improved enough to be worth it for you. Don't compare to a widebody mid-bath, because the widebodies have a different radius on that upper curve.

[Markeyro]

Yeah I've done some "standing around" and I think it's the back and side getting me at the back versus just the side curve. You're right, lots to weigh as to if it's worth it or not. Probably not in the long run. But I'm also dealing with thinking about how we'll actually use the trailer with our kids while we're out... Lots to consider.

[GeocamperAS]

I took my 28' rear bath center bunks and turned it into a center bath rear queen. I also kept one center bunk. Between the queen, the bunk and the dinette/queen, I can sleep six.
I have not posted any pix yet because it is only 95 percent done. However this may be a good time for me to do that.
I did a complete shell off floor replacement so "gutted it to the studs". Although found little evidence of mice before the gut, I found major evidence in the wall insulation. Also all new wiring, plumbing, gas lines and insulation. Put the original coated aluminum skin back on the inside for rigidity but covered with something else where exposed. Also used all LED lighting as to use less battery when boondocking

Any questions PM me or I will watch this post so others may benefit from this good or bad. Yes there are a few things I would have done differently.

[Markeyro]

Tiger, Thanks a ton for sharing those pics!! You did a great job on that!

I must say that I'm somewhat anxious to see the condition of the frame once I get the floor stripped back in some places and take a look from underneath. I am somewhat intimidated by a full on shell off restoration, but realize that it might possibly be necessary. In some ways I'd really like to be able to replace the floors full on and start fresh with a well sealed frame, etc., but at the same time don't know if I'm up for that (or if my wife is ). Anyways great work.

Also thanks for the example of moving that bath to the middle. Good to know it can be done.

I'm also somewhat intrigued with pulling my skins of the interior just to be able to start from scratch, especially as it relates to wiring, but again have been discouraged from doing that. Understandable, lots of work, but I'll just have to see what I get into...

I'm getting ready to post some recent pics and questions along several different lines. If you have the time I'd love your feedback and again, really fabulous job!

Thanks,
mark

[Markeyro]

Okay I wanted to share a few images of where I'm at and ask some related questions to make sure I'm on the right track.
1. Refrigerator - Dometic RM100 - covered this in a previous post, but will be pulling the fridge tomorrow, plugging in to see if the electric heater is even working at all. Will post some follow up pictures to seek more feedback if necessary and will be calling some places to see about getting it restored. New fridges seem just crazy expensive!!


2. Fresh water tank - So I found my freshwater tank. Located at the very front of the camper under what was the sofa. Sofa is now gone But the tank remains. I'm fine to keep it there, unless I have a good reason to move it, but would like to know a bit more about it. Here are some pics of it, one overview shot, and a closeup of the stamp on top and the inlets and the outlet. Primarily interested in the capacity of the tank. If it's too puney, I'd consider putting in a bigger new tank in the belly somewhere. Thoughts or leads on identifying the capacity?









3. Found some electrical - So right next to the tank I found some electrical goodies. You can see the pics below. I have no idea what this stuff is yet, and frankly haven't tried to figure it out yet. Working hard now on just emptying the trailer! Any ideas on what I'm looking at here. Obviously my old water pump here that I'll be replacing when I replumb this thing with PEX.

One electrical question I'd like to ask, and have been looking for feedback from elsewhere in previous forum posts is regarding electrical location. I would really love to locate all my electrical gear in one space/cabinet. Breaker / Panel / Converter / Inverter. I was planning on a midship cabinet at a level that is easy for me to work with. I'm not sure where I'll be locating batteries yet, so that would inform that decision, but again, thoughts are very welcome!









4- Not too much else to say about the rest of it other than I'm hoping to finish the "GUT" tomorrow. It seems to go pretty fast. I'm saving pieces that seem like I could use them as the repairs come along, but most of it has been severely abused and is going to the dump sadly. The stove I fear is beyond rehabilitation, even with a new top and door, but I haven't lost all hope on it and will be looking for replacement parts for it later tonight. Here is a shot looking rear.



many thanks,
mark

[GeocamperAS]

Your fresh water tank looks to be the same size as mine. 30 gal. According to my book. Also gray tank located under bathroom floor is 10 gal. And black tank 12 gal is above bathroom floor. The toilet sits on one half and the other half goes into the sink cabinet. We conserve water use as to not overflow gray and black tanks so 30 gal. has been enough. I left mine where it was mainly because I did not want to mess with relocating the fill door. I noticed your drain valve is pointed sideways. I went straight down through the floor and belly pan for better drainage. I left about 2 inches of hose sticking through the belly ban.
My 1974 refrigerator still worked. I cleaned up the inside, took off the front frame sanded the paint rust off and repainted. Took out the wood inserts on the doors and put on stainless with cardboard backing for a spacer. Knowing it is a1974, I installed it so I could remove it easily if it needed to be fixed or replaced. I did check and there is a replacement the same dimensions.
My stove was working and the inside was in good shape. My stove top was painted buy the PO. I striped it and sanded it. It looks ok. My door is originally stainless. Otherwise the door might have a framed panel. The panel could be replaced.
I housed my 120 breakers, 12v fuses, battery switch, converter and water pump in the base cabinet between the dinette and refrigerator.
I made a covered battery box out of aluminum to hold 2 batteries and put it on the tongue between the LP tanks and the shell.

[GeocamperAS]

I know you are very excited and want to do as much as you can as soon as you can. I was the same way. But if I may offer one bit of advise....the best thing I did was googled airstream and argosy images as well as looked at all the photos by members on Airforums. Then once I had it gutted, I measured the empty trailer where windows, vents, hatches, wheel wells were and planned it all out on paper first.

[Markeyro]

Appreciate the advice. I've already got it sketched up with those specifics, and am mulling some stuff over. Don't worry, i've dove into one too many projects without realizing the water was a little deeper than I figured. I've grown to be more of a slow and steady kind of fella. My mind on the other hand can get all over the place. Right now just kind of fun dreaming, planning, and exploring what's all out there.

Again, I appreciate the thoughts,
mark

[GeocamperAS]

The electrical you show in the pix next to the tank. That is where my 7 pin umbilical cord came out. I did not have those black square things (removed by PO) but I believe they are fuse links. I went with current style car fuses that are readily available.

[DKB_SATX]

30 gallons of freshwater has been enough for us so far. As has been pointed out already, the limiting factor is the gray tank on the original setup, you can double the gray capacity and still barely empty the fresh tank between the waste tanks. The fresh fill already being in place makes it easy to leave the tank up front if you can work your new floorplan around it.

[rogerdodger]

Here is a pic. I wanted my living area open, since a PO had gutted and then built a water tank cover. So I moved the tank to the curb side under the new bed frame. I installed inspection covers on the tank, so I can clean it after use. FYI the tank never drains completely, and mine had black algae,so a good cleaning in order. I fill it from a valve bypassing the pump, adding fresh water,or I can bring a hose in thru the storage door by the pump. I have no drain on it, because I pump it out with the pump, open the inspection cover, and wipe it dry with a clean bath towel. I also had to repair a leak in the tank. It now looks and smells new inside. Just another idea.

[crispyboy]

The size of the tanks alone in your Argosy would push me into changing the floor plan. The floor plans from our previous trailer (89-29') and present trailer (94-classic 30), both narrow body trailers, are very usable in my opinion. I would think about these when designing the bathrooms. The gray tank in both trailers are the same. 30 gallon gray, 35 gallon black and 50 gallon fresh. This capacity gives my wife, daughter and myself three full days of normal living (daily showers, 3 meal/day dish washing and commode) without needing hookups and eliminates the need for bringing a tote tank for waste. Of these two floor plans our we like the split bathroom of the 30 better. There is more room for both drying off after the shower and using the commode. The shower will still be tight for a guy with your height because the base is elevated a few inches to make room for the plumbing. The shower gooseneck partially penetrates the floor.

Excella 25' 29' 32' Floor Plans.pdf

trailer floorplans.pdf

[Markeyro]

Steve thanks so much for the reply. It was good to review those plans. I need to take some of these to my drawings and see what I can work out. Part of what I need to see too is what things are looking like under my floor and what I can afford to buy in the way of tanks. I appreciate your feedback, it's helpful.

Hopefully tonight I can still get the rest of my argosy stripped down and cleaned out! Then to the dump tomorrow,
Thanks,
mark

[Markeyro]

Isn't it funny how these projects move so slow

I'm 90% stripped out in the argosy, but am trying to carefully remove the bathroom to sell to another Argosy guy here in Ft. Wayne. So I'm trying not to destroy it, should be interesting.

I did get my first big load of interior to the dump. It was kind of a shame that it was in such rough shape as I'm sure others could have used parts. So soon I should be down to bare floor and interior skins.

Some questions and thoughts:
1. The floor. So I'll be bringing the floor up in some places where there is water damage and checking out my frame and tanks from above. I guess I'll just see what I'm into once I pull it back in some places and go from there, but I'm really tempted to just redo the whole floor and have a solid base to work from. Definitely need to check out that frame though. Along these lines. I do have the back 2 belly skins that are trashed and I'll be pulling off to redo. This will give me a good look at the tanks and the frame back there which maybe will be enough of a look.

What do people think, should I pull off the rest of the skins to give a thorough inspection to the rest of the frame from underneath? Or would it suffice to check things out from above, maybe redo the floor and add some insulation all from above leaving the skins well enough alone?

2. Tanks and Bathroom. So I think that I am going to relocate the bathroom/shower to the side of the trailer and move a sleeping quarter into the rear. As such, I would like to relocate and increase our graywater and blackwater tank capacity. Seeing as the axles are surface mounted to the bottom of the trailer, I'd like to look at moving new tanks over the axles or close to over the axles. I'll provide some shots of my floorplans here shortly. I'm working it all up in google sketchup, which is a great tool, but due to the complex nature of of the argosy "curves" it's not super easy

So thoughts on floor / belly skin / frame inspection? Bathroom and tank relocations...

And go!! Thanks in advance for your input,
mark