water relief valve

[derf]

Has anyone rebuilt their pressure relief valve? Mine seems to be letting water pass periodically, sometimes without being connected to shore water. Any thoughts as to what may be happening!
Derf

[derf]

Ok so I answered my own question. I repacked the 2 valves with red handles in the trunk and the back pressure valve at the point of connection for city water connection and my drip seams to have abated.

[cwf]

Just saw your post! Glad you sorted it out!

[derf]

Ok, still having problems with the press relief valve passing water when connected to city water. Does anyone have the same issue? Is a PR valve necessary? Can I just cap it?

[cwf]

Derf... on my 1999, I replaced the 'City Water inlet'. It includes a 'pressure regulator' to keep too much pressure from getting into the system... but, there is no 'relief' valve, except on the Water Heater.

It was leaking when I was NOT connected to City water but had the 'onboard pump' running... so, the pressure fed back to the 'city water' device.

[nrgtrakr]

Perhaps I'm confused, but the only pressure relief valve I know of is on the hot water heater. If it has junk in it, it will leak, so a good blast of water should clean it. If it refuses to seat and continues to leak, it wants to be replaced with a valve of identical capacity. A pressure relief valve should NEVER be capped off or plugged.

The other thing you mention, a "back pressure valve" is also known as a one way check valve, allowing flow in only one direction, typically found at the domestic water inlet (which prevents water leaving when using the pump) and another at the pump for the fresh water tank (which prevents the fresh water tank from filling when connected to city water). These also may leak as evidenced by water dripping from the fresh water inlet when using the pump, or a full or overflowing fresh water tank when connected to a hose, requiring cleaning or replacement.

When I replumbed my 75, I replaced the check valves with ball valves.

[derf]

Per my 5/27/15 post I repacked the two drain valves in the back, and replaced the o-ring in the back pressure valve, it works fine. the relief valve has a rubber hose connected to it with a clamp and drains straight down through the belly pan. This is not the relief valve on the water heater. Water heater is nearly new and works properly. It is original equipment as shown on the water distribution plan in my manual.

[nrgtrakr]

Wonderful ... I think our difference in terminology confuses me.

[derf]

CWF, You may have too new an As to compare with mine, I have a pressure reducer just inside the skin, and appears to be OME, and seems to function properly. The relief valve I'm referring to is downstream from this P.R. a few inches and also appears to be OME and has is own hose/plastic tube that exits the belly pan straight down. It does't seem to make any difference how wide open I have the city water valve. Still Drips/runs!

[txdxrider]

Originally Posted by derf

CWF, You may have too new an As to compare with mine, I have a pressure reducer just inside the skin, and appears to be OME, and seems to function properly. The relief valve I'm referring to is downstream from this P.R. a few inches and also appears to be OME and has is own hose/plastic tube that exits the belly pan straight down. It does't seem to make any difference how wide open I have the city water valve. Still Drips/runs!

My original Bowen leaks- also heard about draining the tank and filling with compressed air then refilling as the pressure of the water heating up causes the valve to "open"...