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Old 07-16-2010, 03:31 PM   #101
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And this Airstream needs to be ready to roll on 16 July...somebody just shoot me, please.

Zep
I feel your pain. Mine had to be done for the 1st! It is soooooo close now. I wish you luck Zep. I will post pics in my "Oh God, what have we done" thread when it is finished. Hopefully by monday!
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Old 02-19-2011, 02:20 PM   #102
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Eyebrow Cabinet

I've got to get ready for the Restoration Rally, so it's time to do the next major refurbs in the Sovereign. The first one is the eyebrow cabinet--man, that was one ugly hole in the front end! Not only that, but the thermoplastic dome is flimsy. NOTE: this is my third eyebrow cabinet and every one has had significant differences due to the shape of the cutout in the dome shroud. This shroud was the least structurally sound--no support at the rear of the cabinet (at the top of the window frame). It also has a curved front edge that is difficult to match in a cabinet, due to flat doors on the face of the cabinet.

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I wanted to get maximum depth on the cabinet for (1) putting 3-ring binders in and (2) to get close enough to the shell so I can get support on the top of the window. This made for a complicated cabinet shape--front and back faces had different slopes and the ends had to be trimmed to fit the curve of the shell. Previous cabinets weren't quite this wide, so the shell curve wasn't as big a factor. The cabinet also needed a decorative edge along the top to cover the ragged edge of the shroud. BTW, you can never have enough clamps...

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Once the cabinet was done, its weight began to concern me. I had decided to support it on the top of the window, but the more I thought about it the more I realized that every bump is going to impart forces that make it want to tilt down. So I set about to restrain the rotation of the cabinet (slight as it might be--I didn't want to crack the shroud any more than it already is). I thought the shell would be pretty stiff--wrong! Even small point loads on the shell, even along a joint, caused signifcant deflection. I decided I had to stiffen the shell and at the same time not change its outside appearance.

I took out five rivets, approximately around the top of the cabinet. I then formed two 7" pieces of 1" "L-channel" to fit the shell (love that shrinker!). Once those were installed I put a cross piece of heavy "U-channel" between them. The U-channel then could restrain a vertical piece of structure that was supported on the window frame. I also attached a long L-bracket to the inner face of the window frame to support the bottom of the cabinet.

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Once the main structure was in, I could put in the "wing" piece of L-shaped sheet that could both support the cabinet and restrain it from rotating forward.

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You can see below how the support interfaces with the inside of the radio compartment of the cabinet. That flat bracket to the left will support a terminal strip for the heavy ground and +12 wires. As you can see, the speaker wires are quite long, long enough to remove the radio and set it down on the couch below without disconnecting it.

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The end result is that the cabinet doesn't deflect the shell enough to notice--actually I think it doesn't deflect at all. The really happy news is that the modification isn't visible from outside or inside!

Zep

PS--This trailer will be at the Restoration Rally in Albuquerque in June and then at Burning Man in September. After that, it will be for sale.
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Old 02-19-2011, 03:44 PM   #103
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Looks great Zep.

If I understand correctly, the horizontal piece of AL with the two green arrows pointing at it was in stalled by you to supuport the bottom of the cabinet? Did you screw the cabinet to it, or just sit the wooden shelf on it?

Similar question for the top L-shaped piece of AL. The wing is a piece of wood you slid in, then screwed to the top of the AL "L", and also to the wood of your cabinet?

Last question: what are the two pieces of copper in the photo below for? I imagine they are original to the TT, or are they items you put in to hold that L-shaped piece?.
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Old 02-19-2011, 05:28 PM   #104
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they are Cleco's. A plier-like tool activates them. They hold your work together almost as good as rivets, so as you drill holes, you install them to keep eveything perfectly aligned. When it's time to rivet, they come right out. Google them. They are as cheap as $0.60 each and come in various diameters to match your rivet hole.

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Old 02-19-2011, 05:32 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage View Post
If I understand correctly, the horizontal piece of AL with the two green arrows pointing at it was in stalled by you to support the bottom of the cabinet? Did you screw the cabinet to it, or just sit the wooden shelf on it?.
The bottom shelf sits on it and is screwed to it.

Quote:
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Similar question for the top L-shaped piece of AL. The wing is a piece of wood you slid in, then screwed to the top of the AL "L", and also to the wood of your cabinet?
No, the "wing" is the L-shaped aluminum. The underside of the top of the cabinet sits on it and is screwed to it. It didn't require any piece of wood for shimming.

The "wing" was proabably more than enough support by itself.

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Old 02-19-2011, 05:32 PM   #106
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Of course, I've seen them in photos dozens of time, just didn't recognize them where I didn't expect to see them.

Thanks.
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Old 02-21-2011, 05:13 PM   #107
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For sale

See the classifieds for sale details. Here is a list of all the threads that describe the repairs and modifications made to this Sovereign. If not sold earlier, the trailer will be at the Restoration Rally in June and then around the loop to Salt Lake, Reno, and Vegas in Aug-Sep. If you want to take a look, I'd be happy to make small side trips to accomodate you.

General repairs and interior layout (this thread):
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...dux-23481.html

Removing the vista view windows (Overlander and Sovereign):
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f454...ews-32184.html

Fixing the Zip-Dee awning:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f442/zip-dee-modification-24676.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f442...ric-54609.html

Installation of a removable and flexible Olympic catalytic heater:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...ion-46720.html

How to repair bubbled solar film in a dual pane window:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f454...ilm-37422.html

Fixing the dump value:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f444...fix-33900.html

Replacing copper pipe with PEX:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...ign-23313.html

Repairing plastic tanks (Safari welded and Sovereign glued):
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f444...nks-38379.html

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Old 02-21-2011, 05:27 PM   #108
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Lots of great work Zep.
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Old 02-21-2011, 05:46 PM   #109
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Let's discuss icky stuff like price over in the classifieds. I want to negotiate with each potential buyer privately.

A couple of things I didn't mention in the classified ad:
  • The battery and converter are new
  • The water pump and water system are new
  • The microwave is a new addition
  • All the foam is new
  • The double pane windows have ben repaired--the solar window film has been replaced
  • New-ish brake plates--less than 12,000 miles on the brakes
  • New tires (second set since I picked her up 6 years ago)
There are some tasks that remain:
  • Axles, but they work great now
  • The over sink cabinet (it's currently a remnant)
  • A storage shelf above the rear bed
  • Put the side window back in, if you want it--all parts and window are available, might take an hour or two since the patch was designed to allow reinstallation quickly
  • Think about a new water heater. This trailer sat for 25 years, so there isn't much "time" on the appliances, but it's the one item I keep an eye on.
  • Probably needs some work on the window gaskets
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Old 02-21-2011, 06:33 PM   #110
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Is this an inventory reduction sale?
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Old 02-21-2011, 06:41 PM   #111
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Maybe a going out of business sale or are you making room for another project.
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:45 PM   #112
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You're both right. I've got to get to work on the Safari!

And I don't need a looooonnnnnggg trailer. I need one shorter than the Overlander and I sold the Caravel. Ergo, the pressure is on.

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Old 02-24-2011, 07:53 AM   #113
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Prospective buyers have asked for some interior views, so here's the first set (more later as finishing touches are applied):

the bathroom: the original shower pan is still used and in good shape. the sink and toilet layout are the same, but the plastic counter and sink have been replaced. the new aluminum sliding door for the bathroom is in shop getting riveted together today--you can see the closet door, which has similar construction, partially fabricated and leaning on the band saw in the picture below. The water heater cover, visible next to the toilet, is an easily removable aluminum shroud.

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the rear bedroom: there are three compartments under the bed that are accessible from inside and one long one along the shell accessible from outside. the mattress is 4" of firm foam topped with 2" of memory foam. man, that sucker is like a rock if it's cold, but within a few minutes of getting in bed, like 5, it's soft and comfy. with all that foam, this bed is toasty with just two quilts down to 35 degrees inside temp. the desk is designed so that you sit on the bed.

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cabinet upgrades: during the shakedown cruise I noticed that stuff moving around on the shelves allowed the bare aluminum to blacken everything it touched. I think this is the biggest downside to metal cabinets, so I'm coating all the interiors with enamel paint. I'm liking the way the pantry is turning out--maybe I'll make the other two shelves red... The shelves are being painted only where bottles and cans rub. the lower two shelves are sealed watertight so that fluids from any leaking jugs are contained within the pantry. I think you can get 4 gallons of water in the bottom shelf--I will check and report back.

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more photos coming over the next couple of weeks.

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Old 02-24-2011, 02:48 PM   #114
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Zep, Could you provide a little detail on how you built the tub surround, particularly the wall and trim material?

Thanks
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Old 02-24-2011, 05:20 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bauxter View Post
Zep, Could you provide a little detail on how you built the tub surround, particularly the wall and trim material?...
The surround is two pieces of 0.32 6061-H32 (durn, can't remember the hardness--maybe AEROWOOD will chime in here and remind me). Each piece has a 1" folded flange along the long edge and these two edges are riveted together to make the 90 degree vertical edge/corner on the hallway. The top and bottom edges of the panels have 3/4" channel riveted to them to provide a surface/bracket for screws to attach the panels to the floor and to the shell. The inside surface of each panel is FRP (stiff plastic with a bubble surface), which comes in 4x8 sheets at HD for around $25 each. It takes two sheets because each wall is like 28" wide. The FRP is under the "L" channel that runs around the edge of each panel (sandwiched between the sheet/panel and the L channel). At the joined corner, there is a 3/4" "L" channel running vertically and is exposed to the interior of the shower. This corner channel restrains the edges of both sheets of FRP as they come together in the corner. The rivets through the corner joint are proud (regular univeral rivet head) on the outside and inside they are flush to the 3/4" channel surface.

The vertical edge of the wall along the hall that the shower curtain abuts to was fairly complicated because it had to fit the shower pan and the original face piece along the shower opening. It also had to be stiff, provide a grip edge that wasn't sharp (thin), and prevent water from getting into that grip edge and subsequently promoting mold.

Note that the panel/wall along the hall is curved a bit because the shower pan is curved. This will be concealed by the sliding door, once it's in place. I could have made the wall flat with the use of two tapered shims, but at the time I didn't have time for that. Getting a good watertight seal was what I was after.

You can just barely see it in the photo, but the bottom of the hall wall has an access panel to allow access the J-trap and other plumbing under the shower pan. This little panel is a piece of skin attached with nutplates and screws.

Most of this can be assembled solo, but there are a couple of the joints that required two people (and a couple of times I wish I'd had three). It was assembled in place, since the countertop was already in and prevented good access down that side of the adjacent panel.

Zep
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Old 02-24-2011, 08:25 PM   #116
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Zep, Please entertain a few more questions.
1.) Is the plastic panel bonded to the aluminum, or did you just use rivets?
2.) Did you apply any water-proof material to the outside wall:: (inner skin)?
3.) Will the trailer be at the restoration rally, if not sold?
4.) If the panel goes all the way to the floor, how do you keep water from running down the wall, behind the tub, assuming the panel does not overlap the tub flange?

Thanks
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:25 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bauxter View Post
Zep, Please entertain a few more questions.
1.) Is the plastic panel bonded to the aluminum, or did you just use rivets?
Not bonded. The plastic is very stiff in compression, so if you control it's floppiness by restraining the edges, it will not sag. It's only attached to the panels at the edges. I have used the FRP in two other refurbs. In both cases I used silicone glue to bond the FRP to a plywood panel. This has worked for years (like 10) but in one case one of the edges is delaminating just a bit (curling up about 1/8" at the edge with about 3/4" width along the edge delaminated).

Quote:
2.) Did you apply any water-proof material to the outside wall:: (inner skin)?
No. The inner shell skin was the original outside (shell side) wall for the shower. The vinyl clad aluminum is fine with water.

Quote:
3.) Will the trailer be at the restoration rally, if not sold?
Yes

Quote:
4.) If the panel goes all the way to the floor, how do you keep water from running down the wall, behind the tub, assuming the panel does not overlap the tub flange?
The panel is riveted to the shower pan at the pan's top edge and sealed with an adhesive tub caulk. Basically, it's a simple butt joint. Obtaining this seal and making it stable was a bit of a trick, since the pan tends to crack when you put a pop rivet in it. This is the only bond/joint where I used pop rivets--all the others are bucked.

One variation on this joint would be to run the aluminum panel to the floor, but stop the plastic at the top edge of the shower pan and let it curve in a bit and overlap the pan, to provide a lapped shingle-like seal. This method would make a reliable drip edge, but now you're faced with the problem that the plastic isn't restrained flat on the panel.

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Old 02-26-2011, 11:57 PM   #118
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Photos for post #115

Even I can't follow the text in post #115, so here's some photos to help with the narrative:

The outside corner--it's not just a lap joint between the two panels. There is also a 1" "L" channel riveted on the outside. This edging copies the drawer front appearance.

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The inside corner--this 3/4" "L" channel provides a bed for the flush-bucked rivet tails and holds the FRP securely. You can see clearly here tht the wall to pan seal is a caulked butt joint. The pop rivet tails are basically flush with the surface of the pan. They retain the pan due to their expansion in the hole. You can see that the flange along the edge is NOT over the FRP--it's on the other side of the panel. The rivet heads are the only restraint for the top edge of the FRP. The post 115 is in error. You can see the flange along the shell in the photo above. I had considered making an "upside down lazy L" shaped reinforcing strip to run along the top edge of the pan and then rivet all the way through the panel, but so far that doesn't seem to be needed. The existing pop rivets can always be drilled out and the strip added later.

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The grip edge--the edge of the panel was folded into a "J" and then an "L" shape was riveted inside to close the J. Caulk provides the watertight joint. This joint is stiff, strong, and provides a very comfortable handhold. The wood grain in the right photo is looking out through the bathroom door to the the hallway floor.

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Old 02-27-2011, 06:52 AM   #119
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Zep, It looks like these corner pieces would require a long brake. Do you bend these, or is this a task that a local metal shop would do reasonably, I have seen some inexpensive 30" brakes, but they tend to get expensive above that. In addition, did you use a shrinker/stretcher on the ceiling piece?
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:18 AM   #120
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Zep, It looks like these corner pieces would require a long brake. ... In addition, did you use a shrinker/stretcher on the ceiling piece?
AEROWOOD up in Denver has access to a medium brake, I think it's 72" (why I can never remember this...). The partitions are 78", so I have to piece them together from two panels. You'll see in some earlier posts where I show how I pieced the refrigerator partitions together.

Yes, love my Harbor Freight shrinker-stretchers. It's amazing how many small projects are now possible that I never would have tackled previously. I use the shrinker most often and it's even handy when I do wooden partitions--I don't have to salvage the old extrusions, which don't work so well on 1/2" plywood.

Reporting back on post #113: 8 gallons. The lower shelf will hold those tall 1-gallon window deicer style bottles. The second shelf up will hold those squarish gallon milk/water style bottles, for a total of 8 bottles. Having bottled water is good any time, but having a lot of it in the winter is critical, since I run with the plumbing empty when it's cold.

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