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Old 05-28-2009, 09:31 AM   #1
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1978 31' Sovereign
Montverde , Florida
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 11
Sealing water leaks & other misc.

Up to 18 inches of rain in the last week. Found all the leaks possible on a 30+ year old AS. About 1/2 way done, going through alot of Parr Bond and Sika 221.

Under the bottom trim, it appears that the aluminum shell from under the trailer sits over the side aluminum. Is that correct? That would mean that it is imperative to have a good seal above the trim to prevent water intrusion. Am I seeing it correctly?

What is the proper/best window seal replacement for leaky windows? Where to buy? I have seen posts on earlier and later years, but wanted to be sure...

Have not been able to find replacement locks specifically for luggage/vent locks...Any suggestions?

This is the 31 rear bath. Front bed hardware has been removed, drawers are still there and in good shape. Is the hardware available to put original bed back, or is it going to be more economical to pull out the drawers and put in a futon?

Last one...Clearance and brake light look like they are not getting proper voltage...looks like they are experiencing a brownout, Is all the voltage supplied by the tow vehicle, or is it supplemented by the internal battery?

Thanks in advance for info & opinions.
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Old 05-28-2009, 09:59 AM   #2
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1975 Argosy 24
Malakoff , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 490
Brown out....Clean all the elect. ground connections...add a few...clean
shiney ground connections are VERY important!!! One at the front by the
cord and one at the back by the other cord and one very near the battery.
Super clean, tight and solid ground connections...12 volt Negitive ground that is
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Old 05-28-2009, 10:17 AM   #3
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1969 25' Tradewind
1971 18' Caravel
Berkeley Springs , West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 423
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Up to 18 inches of rain in the last week. Found all the leaks possible on a 30+ year old AS. About 1/2 way done, going through alot of Parr Bond and Sika 221.

I prefer Vulkem (available here Caulks & Sealants)
I cleaned the seams with a sharpen popsicle stick, acetone or paint thinner works well. Then the seam is masked (I use blue masking tape) to obtain a nice neat finished sealed seam. I do the same thing around the windows and doors.

Under the bottom trim, it appears that the aluminum shell from under the trailer sits over the side aluminum. Is that correct? That would mean that it is imperative to have a good seal above the trim to prevent water intrusion. Am I seeing it correctly?

Yes the bottom banana wrap is installed overlapping the side pieces (go figure). On my 69 there was Vulkem in the seam between the wrap and the sidewalls (that had deteriorated over the years).

What is the proper/best window seal replacement for leaky windows? Where to buy? I have seen posts on earlier and later years, but wanted to be sure...

Once again it can be obtained from different suppliers:
Windows

ODMRV , Out-of-Doors Mart

Inland RV Center - The Nations Leading Expert in Airstream Innovations


Have not been able to find replacement locks specifically for luggage/vent locks...Any suggestions?

Check with the same suppliers

This is the 31 rear bath. Front bed hardware has been removed, drawers are still there and in good shape. Is the hardware available to put original bed back, or is it going to be more economical to pull out the drawers and put in a futon?

Last one...Clearance and brake light look like they are not getting proper voltage...looks like they are experiencing a brownout, Is all the voltage supplied by the tow vehicle, or is it supplemented by the internal battery?

Corrosion and vibration are usual culprits for failed wiring problems (and previous owners). The early wiring used a single power lead for the lights and a chassis return for the DC power to the running lights, so any corrosion where the light is riveted to the chassis there will either be a partial or total power loss. Power for the running lights is normally supplied from the tow vehicle, although there are add-on devices which allow you to use the trailer battery system for lighting the external lights in an emergency when you may have to leave the trailer on the side of the road.

I hope this gives you some leads.

Tom
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Old 05-28-2009, 11:56 AM   #4
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2005 30' Classic
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennethowens View Post
Brown out....Clean all the elect. ground connections...add a few...clean
shiney ground connections are VERY important!!! One at the front by the
cord and one at the back by the other cord and one very near the battery.
Super clean, tight and solid ground connections...12 volt Negitive ground that is
Agree 100%. Every time I change a bulb - or if I am having problems - I scrape or file everything to bright brass and then apply a coat of dielectric grease to try to delay new corrosion.

Brian.
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2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
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