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Old 01-01-2009, 06:35 AM   #21
1972 Travelux Princess 25
 
Cobourg , Ontario
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Originally Posted by 86Scotty View Post
I wish you luck burping your fridge, and it has worked for some, but it didn't for me. I tried MANY methods/combinations to no avail, but i'd still love to hear that it worked for yet another person. I recently found some pure ammonia that i had put in a spray bottle a few years ago in the back of a cabinet. I should've taken a picture to post of what ammonia looks like when it sits still for a few years! It's a gummy/scaly, colorful mess that everyone should see.

eric
Could you try shaking it up or heating it? Would be interesting to know if there was a way to liquify old ammonia in a fridge.
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Old 01-01-2009, 09:24 AM   #22
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There's a ton of info that i found on the forums on this, but not sure if i heard anything like that. What you'll find if you have one that's not working is that the tubes on the back will heat up and if you feel along them, you'll find a place somewhere between the top and bottom where the tubes turn cold, and as i understand it, that's where the flow of ammonia ceases (where the clog is).

I tried tapping around gently on that area with a mallet and still had no luck freeing it up.
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Old 01-01-2009, 10:15 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by 86Scotty View Post
There's a ton of info that i found on the forums on this, but not sure if i heard anything like that. What you'll find if you have one that's not working is that the tubes on the back will heat up and if you feel along them, you'll find a place somewhere between the top and bottom where the tubes turn cold, and as i understand it, that's where the flow of ammonia ceases (where the clog is).

I tried tapping around gently on that area with a mallet and still had no luck freeing it up.
Burping, seldom works for the long haul.

What causes the problem, is a flake of rust or two, clogs up an internal orifice, restricting the flow of the liquid. Hence, improper cooling.

Banging on the coils, agravates the problem.

Should burping work, those flakes of rust will still be flowing around with the liguid.

Unfortunately, the reefer will fail again.

When will it fail, is always the gamble.

Typically, when burping has cured the problem, it was because of a different type of internal problem.

If you run the reefer enough off level, when parked, especially on a hot day, you can cause a "vapor lock."

A vapor lock usually can be corrected by allowing the reefer cooling unit to cool down, removing it, and turn it upside down a few times, and then leaving it upside down for a couple of more days. Then right side the reefer, and leave it set for a couple of more days. If the problem was vapor lock, you probably just fixed it.

But, a simpler way to correct a vapor lock, is to allow the reefer to cool down for a few days.

Then simply hook up the trailer and take it on a bouncy, zig zag trip for a few miles. That method can provide the same results, with a ton of "less" effort.

Andy
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Old 01-02-2009, 05:41 AM   #24
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Look at the pink mush. This is what I found under my front belly skin. Have a look at my blog for other pics.

What I did at this point is get all the remaining insulation out scraping and hosing it out of the frame.

Then painted the whole frame with POR 15, I didn't reinsulate from the bottom, I left it all open to air out and drain.

Then I covered the floor with a 6 oz fiberglass cloth with resin, that solves the floor issues forever cost about $125.

Then I put the Prodex 1/4" foil insulation on the floor covered with pergo etc.

Two years alls well and warm, I can walk barefoot in 20 degrees.

As for the fridge I went thru that, waste of time, bought a brand new one on ebay $600.
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Old 01-02-2009, 05:59 AM   #25
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Old 01-02-2009, 08:16 AM   #26
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I'm hoping to look like that by the end of the weekend. Took a couple of days off for the new year

I'm not thinking that I'll be re-insulating the bottom. For the parts of the floor that I'm not going to have to replace, I'm going to use a mildew remover/inhibitor and then seal the floor with something like Kilz to rid the wood of the smell.

Did you seal the underneath as well?
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Old 01-03-2009, 08:30 PM   #27
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Hey Bob, thanks for that idea. I am really considering that option for the floor. I just don't like the idea of having all that pink insulation sitting in the bottom of my rig. And with the rodent disaster that I've found in mine, I don't want to give them a brand new home when I'm done. I've got some pretty rotten floors in the front and rear of mine, so I'm going to have to replace them. Once I get the bottom all opened up, I'll be taking a pick to the edges all around to see if there's any more rotting. I ordered some POR-15 yesterday to test on my front A frame. I'm a little scared to look at the rear frame at this point It'll probably not happen until next weekend due to the weather here.

Have a look at my blog for all of my findings and progress today!!
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Old 01-10-2009, 10:38 AM   #28
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Well, the weather down here in the southeast sure hasn't been nice to me over the last week. Haven't been able to do anything with the rain. I did start ordering some supplies some replacement parts, window/compartment seals and a trial box of POR-15.....oh and my new weight distribution hitch. Ended up getting a Curt hitch with 1000lb round bars/10000 tow weight and an anti-sway device. I was hoping to hook it up this weekend and take the trailer for a small road trip to get use to the hitch. After reading some posts in the tow/hitch forum, I'm thinking that maybe my bars might be a little too much(stiff), in which case, I might have to add some tongue weight after all is said and done. Once I complete my repairs/remodel, I'll get her up to the CAT scales and get my weights and such, but according to the owner's/service manual, by tongue weight is approx 490lbs. I hope I didn't buy the wrong hitch

But like I said, I can always add some weight up front to counter this and with my remodel, I'll likely have some more weight up front anyways. I plan to add a dinette up front instead of the goucho that use to be there.

I'm also interested it anyone has re-finished the interior of their trailer using wood veneer over the interior skins. I've contact a veneer manufacturer up in Michigan for some suggestions and recommendations for applying it, i.e. type of glue with a combination of rivets. I'm looking at birch veneer to match the cabiets that I'll be making. The biggest concern that I have is wether the veneer will warp or shrink with the normal use of the trailer. If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. My other option is painting, but I really want the natural wood look.

Also, I meant to put this in my earlier post. I have quite a bit of '75 airstream parts lying around my yard right now and would like to offer them up to any who needs. Most of the tambour doors are still intact and lots of trim pieces.

Well, if the rain ever stops today, I'll get out and do some work. Can always work on the interior, as I still have a bit to do in there.

I'll keep you all posted........HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!!!!
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Old 01-10-2009, 10:45 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by CrzyCorpsman View Post
Well, the weather down here in the southeast sure hasn't been nice to me over the last week. Haven't been able to do anything with the rain. I did start ordering some supplies some replacement parts, window/compartment seals and a trial box of POR-15.....oh and my new weight distribution hitch. Ended up getting a Curt hitch with 1000lb round bars/10000 tow weight and an anti-sway device. I was hoping to hook it up this weekend and take the trailer for a small road trip to get use to the hitch. After reading some posts in the tow/hitch forum, I'm thinking that maybe my bars might be a little too much(stiff), in which case, I might have to add some tongue weight after all is said and done. Once I complete my repairs/remodel, I'll get her up to the CAT scales and get my weights and such, but according to the owner's/service manual, by tongue weight is approx 490lbs. I hope I didn't buy the wrong hitch

But like I said, I can always add some weight up front to counter this and with my remodel, I'll likely have some more weight up front anyways. I plan to add a dinette up front instead of the goucho that use to be there.

I'm also interested it anyone has re-finished the interior of their trailer using wood veneer over the interior skins. I've contact a veneer manufacturer up in Michigan for some suggestions and recommendations for applying it, i.e. type of glue with a combination of rivets. I'm looking at birch veneer to match the cabiets that I'll be making. The biggest concern that I have is wether the veneer will warp or shrink with the normal use of the trailer. If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. My other option is painting, but I really want the natural wood look.

Well, if the rain ever stops today, I'll get out and do some work. Can always work on the interior, as I still have a bit to do in there.

I'll keep you all posted........HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!!!!
Rember that the shell twists and tweaks. That puts severe stress on the interior and exterior shell.

Screws will work loose. Rivets will cause the holes in the wood to wallow out.

Adhesive can work, BUT the correct one must be used, and only after extensive preparation of the vinyl-clad walls.

Painting the vinyl-clad is easier and less risky. But, once again, proper preparation of the vinyl-clad walls is an absolute "MUST." If not, the paint, in time, will peel.

Adding some weight to the A-frame is Ok. But, the A-frame does have it's limits.

A combination of a heavy duty tow vehicle, excessive rated bars, and a lot of tongue weight, "WILL" cause the A-frame to snap in half.
That combination places excessive stresses on the A-frame, forcing it to bend more than it's intended design. Result, is metal fatigue, that can fail in the course of one right bounce, down the road.

We have had coaches come in on flat beds, because the A-frame separated.

However, it's still your trailer, where you can do whatever you may choose.

Andy
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Old 01-10-2009, 12:48 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by CrzyCorpsman View Post

I'm also interested it anyone has re-finished the interior of their trailer using wood veneer over the interior skins. I've contact a veneer manufacturer up in Michigan for some suggestions and recommendations for applying it, i.e. type of glue with a combination of rivets. I'm looking at birch veneer to match the cabinets that I'll be making. The biggest concern that I have is whether the veneer will warp or shrink with the normal use of the trailer. If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. My other option is painting, but I really want the natural wood look.
I have been looking into this as well, and after some research have decided to change directions. The Basic problem is the different expansion rates of the aluminum and thin veneer skins with temperature change. I talked to Timeless Trailers, which do this all the time, and they told me that applying veneer directly to the skin was a complete failure with the veneer bubbling up and delaminating. In order to get around the problem they flush rivet thin ply onto the aluminum and then adhere the veneer to the ply.
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Old 01-10-2009, 01:18 PM   #31
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Brian,

I would really be interested in the tambour and the plastic end pieces they fit into to make them roll up. This would complete my cabinets back to original. If there is a shipping expense or anything else, please PM me.
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Old 01-10-2009, 09:03 PM   #32
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Andy and Aerowood,

Thanks for the advice!! That's exactly what I was hoping to get I think that that pretty much makes up my mind on NOT using wood veneer. I'm sure that I can get a similar color of paint to accent the wood cabinets.

Andy..... Like I said in my earlier post, I have researched the posts for the w/d hitch, but what size bars should I be using, something in the 600-700 # range. Really the only reason that I went with this size is during gutting my trailer, I found the set of Equalizer bars that one of the previous owners used and they were rated the same as the ones that I bought......maybe I should have asked first. My TV is a 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 and the trailer sags the rear end of my truck pretty low, but nothing too extreme.

Also, as far as my axles are concerned, after reading many of your posts, I'm thinking that I'm in a need for them. I'm considering doing the axle change myself and my nearest A/S shop is a state away. I plan to replace the entire axle, running gears, brakes....pretty much everything!!!!

Alumin8...I sent you a pm regarding the tambour
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:14 PM   #33
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Andy and Aerowood,

Thanks for the advice!! That's exactly what I was hoping to get I think that that pretty much makes up my mind on NOT using wood veneer. I'm sure that I can get a similar color of paint to accent the wood cabinets.

Andy..... Like I said in my earlier post, I have researched the posts for the w/d hitch, but what size bars should I be using, something in the 600-700 # range. Really the only reason that I went with this size is during gutting my trailer, I found the set of Equalizer bars that one of the previous owners used and they were rated the same as the ones that I bought......maybe I should have asked first. My TV is a 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 and the trailer sags the rear end of my truck pretty low, but nothing too extreme.

Also, as far as my axles are concerned, after reading many of your posts, I'm thinking that I'm in a need for them. I'm considering doing the axle change myself and my nearest A/S shop is a state away. I plan to replace the entire axle, running gears, brakes....pretty much everything!!!!

Alumin8...I sent you a pm regarding the tambour
You will be Ok with the hitch bar rating you stated.

You can replace the axles yourself, with a helper.

Would take about 4 hours for both axles, shocks, etc.

Andy
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Old 01-18-2009, 05:43 PM   #34
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Almost to the fun part

Well, made a little progress this weekend on my TV and my A/S!!! Finally got the new functional ram air hood on my truck yesterday and for today, I got all of the interior street side panels off and begun to work on the floor up front. I was able to remove the front floor panel. It took a little cutting here and there, but was at least able to save the shape for a template. The c channel bolts were completely rusted through (at least the two that were there). Don't know if there were suppose to be more than two up from, besides the two large bolts under the front window.

Right now, I'm really contemplating re-flooring the entire trailer. I found another rot spot under were the refer use to be. I think that I could do a shell on floor replacement if I do it in sections. I just do not have the know how to completely remove the shell and what I mean by that is building a support frame for the shell. I know that there are many threads on how to do it, but living down here in Mississippi and approaching the hurricane season, I would hate for my shell to end up in the neighbors yard, upside down and destroyed!!

So, if I do the shell on floor replacement, I'll guessing that I'll slide the wood in the channel, leaving enough of an opening in the center of the trailer so it will easily slide in, then put in the center flooring. There will likely be alot of seams that I'll have to even up, but I think that it will work.

When I pulled up the front floor, I did notice that there is another 1/2" piece of plywood under the floor, running along the cross-member. Is this normal?? or something that a PO put in because of floor sagging? I'll snap a picture of it tomorrow to show you what I mean.

I was very happy to see the condition of the frame up front. There was just some surface rust on the frame and the outriggers up front look the same. I'm going to wire brush all the rust off, then treat it with POR-15 once I get it.

Well, that's it for today and dinner is almost ready. Got the day off tomorrow, so I'll probably get the rest of the interior paneling off and maybe even go buy some new flooring!!!! It's starting to get fun!!!
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Old 01-20-2009, 05:58 AM   #35
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yes, it's normal. Mine has that too. Some frame cross members are lower than others, by design, and they used strips of ply across the frame. Once you get more of the floor up, back to the fresh water tank/fridge area, you'll see that they wedged all sorts of ply pieces around it to keep it in place.

eric
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Old 01-20-2009, 07:45 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by CrzyCorpsman View Post
Well, made a little progress this weekend on my TV and my A/S!!! Finally got the new functional ram air hood on my truck yesterday and for today, I got all of the interior street side panels off and begun to work on the floor up front. I was able to remove the front floor panel. It took a little cutting here and there, but was at least able to save the shape for a template. The c channel bolts were completely rusted through (at least the two that were there). Don't know if there were suppose to be more than two up from, besides the two large bolts under the front window.

Right now, I'm really contemplating re-flooring the entire trailer. I found another rot spot under were the refer use to be. I think that I could do a shell on floor replacement if I do it in sections. I just do not have the know how to completely remove the shell and what I mean by that is building a support frame for the shell. I know that there are many threads on how to do it, but living down here in Mississippi and approaching the hurricane season, I would hate for my shell to end up in the neighbors yard, upside down and destroyed!!

So, if I do the shell on floor replacement, I'll guessing that I'll slide the wood in the channel, leaving enough of an opening in the center of the trailer so it will easily slide in, then put in the center flooring. There will likely be alot of seams that I'll have to even up, but I think that it will work.

When I pulled up the front floor, I did notice that there is another 1/2" piece of plywood under the floor, running along the cross-member. Is this normal?? or something that a PO put in because of floor sagging? I'll snap a picture of it tomorrow to show you what I mean.

I was very happy to see the condition of the frame up front. There was just some surface rust on the frame and the outriggers up front look the same. I'm going to wire brush all the rust off, then treat it with POR-15 once I get it.

Well, that's it for today and dinner is almost ready. Got the day off tomorrow, so I'll probably get the rest of the interior paneling off and maybe even go buy some new flooring!!!! It's starting to get fun!!!
The floor is made up of several pieces of plywood, that are 4 feet wide. At each seam, Airstream installed a "joiner strip" to hold those sections together. The cross members for the seam area, is shorter to take care of the extra thickness.

CAUTION:

Airstreams shell, which includes the floor is semi-monocoque. Splicing the floor throughout, weakens that structure, which in turn, will allow more twisting than the original design.

That extra twisting, will be death on the furniture mountings.

You can get away with a small section, but not the entire floor.

Raising the shell off the floor and chassis, is not a big deal.

Andy
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Old 01-20-2009, 09:38 AM   #37
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We have a 1974 25 foot Tradewinds Landyacht. Where is the drain on the fresh water tank? We have the same problem as you did. Our pump is not hooked up correctly. My husband has looked and looked, but he cannot find the drain, even when looking at the manual.
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Old 01-20-2009, 12:42 PM   #38
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We have a 1974 25 foot Tradewinds Landyacht. Where is the drain on the fresh water tank? We have the same problem as you did. Our pump is not hooked up correctly. My husband has looked and looked, but he cannot find the drain, even when looking at the manual.
maybe it's like in my 1977 Safari. Look for a square steel plate in the middle of the belly pan, with a bolt in the center. This plate holds up the center of the fresh tank, via a post that sticks down from the upper frame. Take the bolt out and it will reveal a "T" in the water line. Undo the cap on that "T". That's the drain on my Safari.

Really pee poor. Took me a couple days to figure that out.

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Old 01-20-2009, 07:27 PM   #39
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Thanks again, Andy for keeping me in check. I will reconsider doing a shell off floor replacement. I'll talk to one of my Seabee builder friends to help me construct a structure to support the shell. I think, maybe then, that I could pull out the frame from underneath and make applying the POR-15 that much easier and also let me get a good look at all the outriggers and such......and give me MUCH easier access when I replace the axles

For anyone that has did a shell off floor replacement, should three supports on each wall and one on each end cap be enough to support the weight of the shell without warping??
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:15 PM   #40
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Doc,

Check out these threads for good info on Shell Off replacement.

Slow Floor Replacement

Step by Step Shell Off Floor Replacement


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