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Danny ONeill · 05-09-2015, 01:13 PM

I think I fried my fridge, which is original and working perfectly well

. Is there any fixing it or does one simply take it out and replace it? I plugged the trailer into a 220 volt by mistake. So far, everything else seems to be running fine.

Very, very sad.

PaulnGina · 05-09-2015, 01:21 PM

Awwww.... sorry to hear that.

bellastream · 05-09-2015, 01:32 PM

Fix it

mandolindave · 05-09-2015, 01:38 PM

I am thinking the only way to do that is if you were trying to make a 30 amp cable ( bought the wrong plug ) and hooked it up to 220 volt laundry dryer outlet

Secondly….Are you sure you hooked it up to 220 volts. It might have been 30 amp.

If everything else works…..you might just THINK your fridge is fried. ( they take a LONG time to start cooling, about a day to get cold) A thermometer is quicker better way to test if it is getting cooler than using your hand, which might not detect the slow process

IF you did hook up to a 220 line…could it be that you tripped a breaker?

IF the fridge is " fried " could just be a fuse or bridge capacitor section.

I'm not an electrician….but I play one on TV

mandolindave · 05-09-2015, 01:45 PM

It might still work on propane

The 110 volt electrical section isn't that complicated. It just heats the element…although you might have fried a board. Anyway don't freak out just yet. ( oddly RV fridges are powered by heat !!!!!!)

fridges cost from 800 to 1200 dollars..so yeah …fix it

bellastream · 05-09-2015, 01:46 PM

Yup worst case new board and heating element.

mandolindave · 05-09-2015, 01:59 PM

You can get an adaptor for your 30 amp plug so you can plug your trailer into a regular 15 or 20 amp house receptacle.

Mistakes are how you learn. Asking and or reading in this forum might be an easier way though. We already made the mistakes for your benefit..ha ha

Danny ONeill · 05-09-2015, 02:50 PM

Back to investigate; thank you all very much!

mandolindave · 05-09-2015, 05:12 PM

I just realized that your fridge is original on a 1979 trailer. Thirty five years for an ammonia gas filled fridge is cause for a watchful eye. Keep an eye out for a gold goo seeping from pipes an fittings. It's a harmful substance. Mine started to leak at 30 years, but would still freeze milk and eggs while set to 3.

My restoration guy insisted on taking it out whether I replaced it or not. Some may say I am an alarmist, and they have a 40 year old fridge that works fine. To this I say….things work until they don't. Then you have a toxic mess. Depending on how bad the leak, It would at least be inconvenient if it started to ooze on a long trip. Start saving for a new one. I wouldn't panic, but I would pay attention. I am guessing you have rust on the pipes. You see rust on ten year old fridges. At least read up on it.

AWCHIEF · 05-09-2015, 05:16 PM

Confused, I really do not see how you could of plugged into 220 using the trailer power cord. Plug would not fit.

NavyCorpsman · 05-09-2015, 05:50 PM

If that fridge is a Dometic RM 100, you will probably need to replace it. Look for the simple things first.
Clayton

TG Twinkie · 05-09-2015, 05:50 PM

There may not be a circuit board if the refer is original. Check out the heating element.
Make sure it works on gas before spending money on an element.

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overlander63 · 05-09-2015, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

Confused, I really do not see how you could of plugged into 220 using the trailer power cord. Plug would not fit.

My house's 240v dryer outlet is virtually identical to an RV plug.

TG Twinkie · 05-09-2015, 07:57 PM

If it is. It is the wrong receptacle. Modern day dryer receptacles are 4 wire. Not three like an RV.
In the old days a dryer receptacle was 3 wire with the neutral and ground bonded.
In an RV receptacle the neutral and ground are separate.

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AWCHIEF · 05-09-2015, 08:13 PM

My 240 dryer outlet. Not even close to a 120 outlet.

cwf · 05-10-2015, 01:43 PM

If you wired the "outlet" end of the cord properly, you "can" use your electric dryer outlet. I have done it myself and for friends.

In my case, each "phase" of the 220/240 AC fed half of the RV, which is 110/120AC. Each AC had its' own feed. The Galley on one and the water heater and converter on another.

However, the "ideal" is that all power coming to the RV be fed from the same "phase" from the panel...

AWCHIEF · 05-10-2015, 02:37 PM

I think that is one helpful tip I will pass on. More than a bit scary and not to any code.

overlander63 · 05-10-2015, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

I think that is one helpful tip I will pass on. More than a bit scary and not to any code.

Really, it's no different from the 50 amp splitter, that plugs into a 50 amp RV outlet, with a female 20 and female 30 amp outlet. Those are available from most RV supply places.

BFSSBN · 05-10-2015, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danny ONeill

I think I fried my fridge, which is original and working perfectly well

. Is there any fixing it or does one simply take it out and replace it? I plugged the trailer into a 220 volt by mistake. So far, everything else seems to be running fine.

Very, very sad.

I'm afraid to ask WHY?
But it sounds like you fried any circuitry and if your voltage regulator isn't melted yet it may very well be on the brink too and breakers overload. So far you are $1800. in the hole I suspect for a new frig. Suggest eliminating 220 or unless there is some reason to do that make a separate power source not cook the existing one even more.

AWCHIEF · 05-10-2015, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

Really, it's no different from the 50 amp splitter, that plugs into a 50 amp RV outlet, with a female 20 and female 30 amp outlet. Those are available from most RV supply places.

Ok, just my opinion.