1978 Sovereign Frame off

[wcronin4]

First layer of insulation (Reflectix) nearly done. The second layer of rock wool should go much faster, since I won’t have wires to restring. Today it was near 80 degrees F and, even though Reflectix w/o airspace has no insulation value, there is a noticeable difference in the heat coming from the skin.

My plan is to use spray adhesive to attach the rock wool to the Reflectix. I have no idea of how that will go. If that fails, I can put the insulation in as I put the inner skins back in place.

It is beautiful on the Florida coast right now. This is prime time, weather wise, to work on Faith. With the A/C being installed on the 16th, and all the insulation installed by the end of the month, I’ll be prepared for the hot, muggy weather to begin. Then I’ll want to be in Canada or Colorado.

[dbj216]

So glad you are working on Faith. Just read an article about Dr. James Allison, the scientist who help develop immunotherapy. T cells and "checkpoints". Nothing better than your own army to fight this dreaded disease. Keep the faith.

No humidity in Colorado. But that sun is intense in the summer. I've recorded 150f Airstream skin temps parked in the sun. Your insulation scheme will work well here.

Here is what you can look forward to in your visit to Colorado. No air conditioner needed.

David

[wcronin4]

With the A/C being installed next week, I’m trying to get the AC installed so I have something to power it with. User a Furrion receptacle below.

Wasn’t pleased with the old entrance cable.

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by wcronin4

With the A/C being installed next week, I’m trying to get the AC installed so I have something to power it with. User a Furrion receptacle below.



Wasn’t pleased with the old entrance cable.

Have a look at SmartPlug. Locks up tighter and is also easy to unplug. Don’t have the issues a twist-lock plug has. Much beefier.

[wcronin4]

Forgot to download the pic

[wcronin4]

In order to permanently mount the AC circuit breaker box to have power for new air conditioner, I had to install rock wool insulation and three of the inner skins.



To the right of the rear hatch door, the yellow romex indicates two new circuits that have been add, on for the hot water heater with AC/DC capability. Also I’m locating the new switches for the hot water heater in the bath. A lot going on in the back right corner. After the area was insulated with rock wool, that right hand bottom panel took a couple of hours to install with all the wiring to contend with.

So a couple of things happened today. First, I had the opportunity to see how the rock wool sticks to the Reflectix and how easy or difficult rock wool would be to work with. Second, these three inner skins, were my first experience reinstalling them.

Third, it was the first day that I really felt that I had begun the process of putting Faith back together again.


I could not be more pleased with the workability of rock wool. I was concerned that using spray adhesive that the rock wool would not adhere. Using 3M 90 spray adhesive from HD, the rock wool adhered to the Reflectix much better than I had hoped. The stuff is easy to work with, and can be cut easily with scissors.

The skins went back into their original rivet holes with no difficulty.

I ordered some space saver circuit breakers to replace the originals so that I could add circuits without having to buy a new breaker panel. I’m pleased with how all that came together.

While yesterday was filled with interruptions, wrong parts that had to be returned and disagreeably hot weather, today was productive, and reaffirming that the choices I made on insulation were good ones.

[dbj216]

Success! Happy to hear the insulation system is working out. And I must remember thin breakers might give enough room in the box for an additional circuit.

Hot weather seems so strange to me here in the frozen Rockies.

David

[Can of beans]

Thanks for the information about the Rockwool and the link, I think you've sold me on it.



I'm just about ready to insulate my trailer, and I had a couple questions. When I measure the rib height in my trailer I came up with a depth of 1.75" I see you used the bubblewrap, and that would probably take up the extra 1/4". I think I'm going to skip that step though, do you think if I ordered 2" thick Rockwool that it would compress the 1/4" or is that product dense enough to cause a problem?


I do plan to add a foam tape layer to my ribs, I was thinking 1/16" thick tape, but I could go to 1/8" to add just a bit more space. the previous plan was to compress 2x4 fiberglass insulation down before I read your comments. compressed it was going to be R6-6.6 according to the manufacturer, but the Rockwool AFB would be a higher R value. Did you end up ordering 16" wide batts or 24" my trailer is also a Sovereign, and I see you used 500sf roughly, I figure I might order 6 bags to be safe, and come out cheaper than buying fiberglass from the local big box store.

Thanks again for your posts.

[wcronin4]

Hey Can of Beans
You’ll find my answers to your questions imbedded below in red.

Thanks for the information about the Rockwool and the link, I think you've sold me on it.



I'm just about ready to insulate my trailer, and I had a couple questions. When I measure the rib height in my trailer I came up with a depth of 1.75" I see you used the bubblewrap, and that would probably take up the extra 1/4". I think I'm going to skip that step though, do you think if I ordered 2" thick Rockwool that it would compress the 1/4" or is that product dense enough to cause a problem?

Rockwool comes in various forms. If you get the AFB batts, it will compress easily.

I do plan to add a foam tape layer to my ribs, I was thinking 1/16" thick tape, but I could go to 1/8" to add just a bit more space. the previous plan was to compress 2x4 fiberglass insulation down before I read your comments. compressed it was going to be R6-6.6 according to the manufacturer, but the Rockwool AFB would be a higher R value. Did you end up ordering 16" wide batts or 24" my trailer is also a Sovereign, and I see you used 500sf roughly, I figure I might order 6 bags to be safe, and come out cheaper than buying fiberglass from the local big box store.

I ordered 16”. I’m finding that all the bays are a different widths and that the end caps must be pieced together. The 16” width bats have been very easy to work with. The cut easily with a pair of scissors.

Thanks again for your posts.

You’re welcome. Happy to help

[wcronin4]

Hard at it, insulating and installing inner skins as I go. Ran wiring for electric start AC/propane water heater, Omni directional TV and radio antenna, and a power for digital thermostat for the heat pump A/C.

Heat pump was temporarily installed so I could run air while working. I farmed that out because I heard getting the old Armstrong Air off was a bear, plus I would have had to rent a lift to remove the old and replace it with the new.

I opted for a Coleman Mach 15k A/C. I have Dometic products on my other camper and their customer service stinks and getting them to honor warranty is confrontational.

Even though the Mach is a high-capacity low-profile, the old Armstrong unit pumped out more and colder air. Having said that the Mach is a good replacement. The heat pump feature works great, but while in heat pump mode it takes more juice to cycle on. Running in Cool mode, it will run fine on a 15 amp circuit. In heat mode it will occasionally pop the 15 amp breaker on the house.

I really have to stay focused. There is so much to do it is easy to get sidetracked. And when I do, it really eats into productivity.

[dbj216]

Boy, you are hard at it. You've made a significant improvement with the new AC and heat pump appliance in Faith. She is really cool now.

Distraction errors are a common human fallacy. We all do it. Texting while driving comes to mind. It always was a concern in the factories I worked in. Sometimes it is hard for us humans to stay on task.

You are making very good progress. I like to read EAA Sport Aviation magazine. Today I read about a fellow who spent 18 years building his airplane. What a project that would be.

David

[wcronin4]

I’ve been held up on installing more of the interior skins as as finalize the lighting plan and make provisions for wire, updated lights and a new switch.

Also, before I can finish the interior skins, I have a MAXXFAN and TV antenna to install and two of the old AS vents to remove.

But improvements are progressing.

My AS had AMP brand electrical outlets that are both outlets and box in the same device. They used them I assume because the save space. I would like to avoid reusing them if I can, but I’m having trouble finding outlet boxes that are 1 3/4” deep. Anyone have any thoughts on how to replace them?

[Bubba L]

Bill, we used some of the 1-1/2” deep single gang plastic boxes from the box stores. After drilling a hole thru a rib for wire and placing a grommet, we riveted the box to the rib. Good luck

[57Vintage]

Bill I used some plastic wiremold boxes to add some more depth. I thought I got them at HD, which included the outlet and cover, but I don't see them on the website.

I wouldn't recommend the metal ones as they don't conform to our curved walls very well. Plus the plastic base is much easier to modify for deeper outlets such as GFCI.

Here's one I found on line at Grainger.

https://www.grainger.com/product/26Y...g!398785985693!

They're about 3/4" deep.

[wcronin4]

I was moving merrily along putting up interior skins when I realized that the bathroom ceiling cap has to go on before the top half of the interior skins.

So now I have to come to terms with the cracked cap and how I’m going to repair it and do something about the finish on the surface.

The pics below illustrates the issue.

I’m thinking about fiberglassing a four inch strip along the entire edge of the cap. In a test spot regular Bondo adhered well to the surface so I am assuming resin will, too.

Anyone have experience repairing the rear cap? I was thinking I could use bondo to fill the holes and cracks on the finish side but the finished side has a grainy surface and every repair will have a smooth surface from sanding.

I am also assuming from following Joyflee’s thread, that auto paint will work to give the plastic a newer look? Is this a good or bad assumption?

Before I boldly went where everyone else has already gone before, I thought I’d throw this out there for comments and input.

I’ve made a lot of progress on Faith lately but haven’t kept up with my post. Tomorrow I have my sixth and final bladder cancer treatment, so I thought I’d try to get caught up tomorrow.

[Bubba L]

Bill, Blue (Joyflea) is probably one of the leading authorities on reconditioning thermoplastics and the like. In our 66 we had the same issue. I fiberglassed cracks and holes on the back side to reinforce and resin on the front. After sanding the front, we sprayed with a plastic/fiberglass paint. Good luck

[wcronin4]

Bubba

How did the fiberglass hold?

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by wcronin4

Bubba

How did the fiberglass hold?

That was five years ago and holding well. I used the glass mat and resin on the back where it wasn’t seen and beefed it up. Ruffing it up a bit with sandpaper on the back for bonding purposes. PM Blue Jay and get his take.

[Bubba L]

Also, Kent (Islandtrader) there in Florida has experience with fiberglass.

[dbj216]

We used fiberglass repair kits on our bath parts where we had access to the back side of the plastic. It created a very strong feeling bond and has held up to the forces of pushing, pulling, and fitting the ill fitting bath parts.

I'd go for the fiberglass repair to those cracks.

David