1975 Sovereign Total Overhaul

[Poptarte]

This is definitely a turning point for us, since it feels like we are finally starting to build up instead of tearing down. This airstream is going to look so good I can hardly stand it!

[wcronin4]

Poptarte

That is the thing that keeps you going, the thought about how cool it will look when your done.

[Poptarte]

Let the flipping commence! Jared and his dad have the trailer all rigged up and flipped over! The tanks are on, and the belly pan and axles are next. I wasn't there when they flipped, but I was told that they were in "full clench mode" when they started pulling the chain falls, haha

We've been busy getting the house fixed up to sell, so Jare has been a busy man! He's also has his truck all decked out with new tires, a lift kit, and fender flairs that he SWEARS are a necessity for towing the Airstream. Hmmmm....

[Poptarte]

We didn't get the tanks spin welded (spun weld?), so Jared and his dad have been working in their plumbing plans too.

[dbj216]

You don't need to spin weld them. I've used rubber grommets successfully on 4 renovation projects using 7 new tanks. I used to work in a rotomolding shop that made all kinds of fuel and hydraulic tanks, as well as water tanks, but not for RVs. We used a lot of rubber grommets for connections. We also did spin welding, but that process was a little problem-matic.

Here is a photo of the rubber grommets. Vintage Trailer Supply and others sell them. You simply use the correct size hole saw to drill a hole in the tank just where you want it, and then squeeze in the grommet. Then insert the drain pipe which is also a press fit. They have never leaked on me.

I run the drain pipe and toilet flange location. Then I drill the holes in the subfloor. Then I position the tank where it will be mounted. Then I mark the tank through the hole in the floor. Then I find the center, and drill a hole in the tank. You gotta be sure, as it is difficult, but not impossible, to rework a big hole in the tank.

David

[wcronin4]

Jared

I used grommets as well. They’re fast and easy to install and I’ve had no leaks either.

Bill

[aaryno]

Originally Posted by wcronin4

Jared



I used grommets as well. They’re fast and easy to install and I’ve had no leaks either.



Bill

i don’t understand the grommets. they are just hand pressed up to the bottom of the tank? nothing holding them except their own compression around the outside of the down pipe?

[wcronin4]

Aaryno

With grommets, they rely on the inserted pipe to tighten the seal. I also used sealant around the grommets before inserting them in the hole I drilled to the specified size.

I admit I was a little apprehensive drilling holes in my new tanks without ever having used grommets.

But for me they worked well.

Good luck!


Bill

[aaryno]

Originally Posted by wcronin4

Aaryno



With grommets, they rely on the inserted pipe to tighten the seal. I also used sealant around the grommets before inserting them in the hole I drilled to the specified size.



I admit I was a little apprehensive drilling holes in my new tanks without ever having used grommets.



But for me they worked well.



Good luck!





Bill

i tried plastic welding a fitting on but it failed, now i’ve got a shower flange that i’m going to bolt down with sealant under and small 10/32 screws — it’s a 3” hole that used to have a toilet flange and i’m plumbing 1.5” urine diverted from the composting toilet. if this doesn’t work i’ll try what you’re doing. can you point out links to the parts online?

[wcronin4]

Colorado Dave

I can’t remember who made our tanks and supplied grommets. Still on our trip and don’t have records with me. Can you help?

A - if your tanks are ABS, I’ve found ABS to be particularly difficult to weld. I know it can be done, but even with a welding kit I did not have success.

If we don’t reach Colorado Dave, I’ll be back home in a couple of days and I’ll get the info I have

Bill

[dbj216]

Here I am. We've been out traveling in the 86 Limited 34' for the last three weeks.

Inca Plastics in California made our tanks. They have a big catalog of tanks. They have been making RV tanks for decades. They mold them from polyethylene, which is a stronger material than ABS. They invented the spin weld process. They are the ones who recommend the rubber grommets to me, and sold them to me. The grommets are also available from Vintage Trailer Supply and others I'm sure.

I have never used the grommets on the bottom of the tank. The grommets protrude about an inch inside the tank, which would make complete draining impossible. Not good.

David

[Poptarte]

Heyo, it's been a quick minute since we posted. We ended up putting our house on the market and it took a solid month of work to get it all fixed up and ready to go. We also had to help the parents with some big projects, so we are finally getting freed up to work.

We are taking today to try to envision what needs to be done before the belly skin goes on, and how to put the skins on, where the wiring may need to go, how to frame the new tanks in their new spots, yadda yadda. We also had to spend nearly 2 days getting rhe barn cleaned up. It's crazy how fast a working space can become a disaster...

Fingers crossed we will have some new pictures up shortly!

[krmtrains]

I'm blown away by your project! We recently bought a '76 Sovereign with the mid bath layout. I hope I never have to do to it what you are doing to yours! Anyway, thanks for sharing your work; it looks awesome! Good luck, and I'll keep following.

[SotR]

We're not dead, just busy selling our house!
I got the belly skins and side skirts on, added the stabilizer jacks, and I am water testing the tanks at the moment. Have a photo for your patience!

[SotR]

Also, If any of you are on Instagram, follow @Silverbird_Airstream for more pictures!

[SotR]

Well, it's been a lot of work, but we got the shell sitting back on the frame. However, we (as usual) have a new problem to sort out.
We had a gap at the front left of the trailer, between the skin and the front bow. We rigged up a few eye bolts, a ratchet strap, and a bottle jack and got that gap closed up.
However, as with everything on these trailers, changing one thing (closing the gap) meant that we crated another problem: The gap has appeared at the back right corner now.
I'm wracking my brain trying to figure out the best way to either close that particular gap without making others, or to get an equal gap all the way around and call it good.

For the record, I ended up removing the lift kit, as it was too high with the combination of 30* axles. I also used strapping tape (the kind with fiberglass strands in it) to secure the belly skins to the channels, which let us easily keep the belly skins UNDER the shell, which is the proper way for water-tightness.

[DremStremer]

My Airstream had a similar gap at the rear corner. Which I believe was there when the trailer was built. What Airstream did was cut a strip of aluminum to match the curve and big enough to cover the gap. Then they sandwiched this between the C channel and plywood. Probably not the best way to fill the gap but something for you to consider.

[SotR]

Howdy, Airstreamers!
We got the gaps sorted with some gentle lovin' with the bodywork hammer, and using small machine screws instead of clecos.
I've patched a bunch of the old holes that will no longer be used, which I'll upload pics of when I have actual wi-fi instead of a crappy phone hotspot.
In the meantime, I need your help.
I've reattached the rear trunk and side access doors, and they seem to have WAY too much slop.
I've flipped the latch the other way, and then it won't close.
I stuffed some foam in to simulate the actual weather seal, and the door seems too pushed out. With no foam, the door flops inward.

What does the latch contact? I can't seem to figure this out.

Thanks in advance!!

[Burnside Bob]

Originally Posted by SotR

What does the latch contact?

Thanks in advance!!

Well Howdy back at you!

Doing awesome work.

To answer your question about the door latch, the latch catches the inside skin and lip of door seal. My seal looks funny because the skin doesn't properly contact the door frame all the way around--the seal lip, which has metal clips molded into it, couldn't handle the gap between inner skin and frame all the way around the door opening on the inside. But hopefully the photo illustrates things well enough.

Burnside

[SotR]

Thank you! got some of the seal lip ordered, hopefully will be the right stuff. Aiming to have it waterproof enough to park outside over the winter