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Old 01-31-2021, 07:54 AM   #1
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1986 31' Sovereign
Ancaster , Ontario
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1986 Sovereign 31' Renovation - Eloise

Hi Everyone,

We purchase a 1986 Sovereign 31' center bath in September of 2020....we named her Eloise.

The forum has been a great resource in finding information and advice on the best ways to go about repairing the problems we've found and getting her ready for many more adventures with her new family.

To date we've found all of the usual problems for an airstream of this age. Water damage and subfloor rot at the rear street side. The same at the entry door next to the galley, and the floor around the toilet flange....well there really wasn't one. I think I'll put it back as part of the reno.

Our plan is to use a mix of the original Airstream parts along with some that we'll build on our own. The interior will get a fresh coat of paint along with the cabinets, tambours etc. New banquette with the pedestal drop table and walnut counters through out.

The renovations have begun already and although the cold weather here is slowing down the outdoor work, we have the better part of an entire trailer interior in the basement.

Here are a few pictures of the 'before' condition.

Thanks for reading!

Jason & Lori

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Old 01-31-2021, 06:27 PM   #2
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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Greetings from Colorado and welcome to the Airstream owner's community. Your 86 Sovereign 31 looks quite nice. I hear you on the floor rot issues. I bet your trailer has an OSB subfloor which turns to oatmeal when wet.

We have an 86 Limited 34' with twin beds in the rear and a mid bath. I've done a lot of fixing through the years, including repairing holes in the OSB subfloor. Here is a photo just for fun.

I think Airstream found mid baths a more desirable layout. Build what the people want. I know bath location was a big deal in the early 80s. The Excella of the late 70s had a mid bath rear bed option in the 27', 29', and 31' "long" trailers. Big rear bathrooms were popular in the 60s and 70s. But the waste water tanks end up back there too and dumping them gets problematic, as well as getting adequate tank size. With a rear bath, you gotta walk through the bedroom to get to the bathroom.

Read all about your 86 Sovereign here on Airstream Trailer Forums. You will learn a lot.

David
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Old 01-31-2021, 07:03 PM   #3
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I owned the exact same model from 2004 until March of 2020. Towed it some 80000 miles, spent at least 2400 nights in it.

Mine also had floor rot here and there as previous owners had slacked off on the exterior maintenance. Got it watertight, fixed the floors and enjoyed the heck out of it.

Keep an eye on the plumbing — it is polybutylene and can spontaneously leak, especially at the 90 deg fittings. If you have the skill set, you might want to replumb it with PEX.

I have some hardware and stuff in my garage at home. If you want to PM me, I’ll send you a list of things I have. I am on the road right now but will be home before long...
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Old 02-01-2021, 06:33 PM   #4
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Hi: I forgot about the polybutylene plumbing. Maybe it was a precursor to PEX, but it is not as strong. My low point drain fittings were rubbing against the frame and developed a leak. Our trailer is one where Airstream ran the plumbing lines above the fresh water tank. I had a big job replacing the galley plumbing runs that ran under the subfloor and above the tank. I had to drop the fresh water tank. I haven't forgiven Airstream for that one yet. But the PEX lines work great.

David
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Old 02-01-2021, 08:02 PM   #5
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1986 31' Sovereign
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HI David and n2916s...sorry, there's no other name in the message. Ha!

We're in Ontario, Canada, although it may already say that in our information beside the post.

I'm knee deep in the reno right now, and I'll be posting more photos of the progress as time allows. So far we've rebuilt the furnace (the combustion chamber, fan motor and gas valve were still good, so it made sense just to replace the other electrical components and rewire it). Cleaned up and made the original Magic Chef work again, although this is on the future replacement list. I've removed all of the furniture, twin beds, overhead cabinets, cabinet doors, galley shower, vanity and half the bathroom walls mostly to get at the sections of floor that I know need to be replaced. Most of the bad floor has also been cut out and just needs to be pried out of the C channel. The replacement floor will have to wait until things warm up a bit and I can finish sealing the obvious areas that need it.

The general plan is to fix the floor where it needs it and not have this go shell off. I know that line will give everyone on the forum a giggle. So far every piece of frame that has been uncovered has been in great condition, and most of the time without even surface rust. The two rear outriggers on the street side could stand to be replaced, but I'm going to wait until the belly pan and side wraps are off to see if anything else needs replacing.

David, we read the 'Faith' renovation thread from start to finish and all of the advice and information you gave to wcronin4 was fantastic. We both hope that Faith is back on the road again soon. Also hoping that our reno isn't a two year odyssey like his project. The amount of work he's put in to restore that trailer is admirable.

N2916s, the PEX upgrade is a great idea, and is something I can do while it's cold outside too. Almost all of the supply plumbing is exposed right now, although I'll have to check on the routing of the water line from the pump over to the curb side. That wasn't on my radar yet, so I don't know how easy that will be to replace with the belly pan in place.

I'm hoping to be able to do all of the repairs myself. I'm an electrician, and a woodworker which covers a lot of what I'll need to do to get our trailer back in shape. We're hoping to use this for many years, and if possible not have to do anything twice. Hmmm...more giggling from the forum.
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Old 02-01-2021, 08:12 PM   #6
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1986 31' Sovereign
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Some of the reno/demolition work to date.

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Old 02-02-2021, 08:57 AM   #7
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1986 31' Sovereign
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Sounds like you have an excellent plan! I had to do the front 4’ or so of subfloor on mine as the leak was at the belt line above the A frame. It was tedious but beat a shell-off...

The polybutylene drove me crazy on a regular basis. Replumbing with PEX is the #1 thing I would recommend.

Good luck with the renovation!

Mike
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Old 02-02-2021, 07:21 PM   #8
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You're really going at it. Yep, Faith's renovation took a long time, but every square inch of Bill's trailer was addressed. He kept at it and will be enjoying it this summer. It takes much longer to put the trailer back together again than it does to tear it down.

I found the frame under my 86 in good shape also. Funny how the 70s trailers have such frame rust problems where the 80s are better. Maybe steel selection, or paint selection. There was a lot of improvements made to automobiles about that time to help prevent rust. Powder coat paint came along about that time and is very durable.

Here is a photo of the front part of the frame under the 86 Limited. I replaced the belly pan and under floor insulation. I didn't find any subfloor holes during this endeavour.

David
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Old 02-02-2021, 09:55 PM   #9
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Hi Mike,

I ordered some PEX pipe and a crimper today. They'll be handy for finishing the basement in the house after the airstream is done, so it's worth the purchase of 100' spools. This is definitely the best time to replace all of that plumbing. Thanks again for the suggestion!

All of the ABS drains look good, but I'll probably replace the traps when I put things back. All the sinks are being replaced as well so hopefully all of this will take care of any plumbing issues I might have.

Hi David,

The parts of my frame that I've uncovered look very similar to yours in the photo. Just some surface rust next the belly pan. The area under the shower between the fresh and gray tank looks like it just left the factory.

I did find two out riggers... Closest to the rotten floor that someone had previously welded angle iron to for reinforcement. I'll be replacing those with new ones. The rear shell is still firmly bolted to the frame with 3/8" bolts that are in good enough shape to be undone with a socket.

It's curious about the difference in the trailers from the 70's to the 80's and whether the difference is in the materials and finishes or whether they just had another decade worth of leaks. Since this is the only airstream we've owned I only know a little about how it's frame is built. I know some of the earlier models had C channel main frames as opposed to rectangular tube. You must have seen some interesting things in restoring all of the different years that you have. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-03-2021, 05:34 PM   #10
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1986 31' Sovereign
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When we purchased the trailer, the running tires were relatively new with lots of tread on them... This was good. I'd like to change the wheel discs out for something nicer or go to alloy rims at some point, but that's more of a want than a need at this point.

I got around to checking the spare today... It's in slightly less 'pristine' condition! Ha.

We also have some interior parts that we aren't going to put back that others may want for a restoration. The curtains and rails are going along with the over the fridge and microwave cabinet, over the bathroom sink cabinet and other random items. If there are things that someone can use, they are yours for the cost of shipping.

I don't know exactly how year specific these parts might be, so I'm putting this here rather than in the general classifieds section. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-03-2021, 06:45 PM   #11
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My former 66 Trade Wind frame was in good shape, no repairs needed. It was a Minnesota trailer. The son's 69 Globetrotter 21' frame was also in good condition. But my 75 Overlander 27' had rear end separation, rusty outriggers, and rusted away rear cross member. See photo. My friends 76 Sovereign frame was even worse with rear end separation, buckled frame, and 9 rusted out outriggers. Once the body becomes detached from the rear cross member, the frame rails bounce around like diving boards.

The reason for this rust damage isn't all clear. Certainly the poor rear body to frame seal allowing rain water to seep into the end cut of the plywood floor is one major reason.

All I know for sure there is a difference between 60s trailer and 80s trailers.

Nice spare tire you got there.

David
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Old 02-05-2021, 02:28 PM   #12
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That rotted crossmember...is it underneath where the grey tank would have gone? I know the waste tanks were also at the back of the rear bath models, where ours are almost over the axles.

I'd like to drop the tanks if for no other reason that to get new steel pans made for them. The ones on our trailer are still solid, but have rust starting. I also have a valve to check on the black tank, as the handle is stuck in the open position right now. Those sound like projects for closer to spring.

On your 86, did you strip the clear coat and polish? I've heard the older Alclad models polished to more of a mirror finish than the newer models because of the aluminum content, but that's a mighty shiny trailer.

Jason
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Old 02-05-2021, 05:43 PM   #13
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We has our trailer stripped and re “plasticoated” right after we bought it in 2004, It looked good fro ten years then got :male pattern baldness”.

Since you can’t get plasticoat anymore, you choices are to strip it and polish it to shiny and presentable or get crazy and go for “mirror-like”. I chose presentable as I am too old to wrestle with a cyclo machine for 31’...

I stripped the clear coat with Citristrip and then polished where it had oxidized with plain old Meguires Chrome and Aluminum polish.
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Old 02-05-2021, 05:44 PM   #14
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We had our trailer stripped and re “plasticoated” right after we bought it in 2004, It looked good for ten years then got “male pattern baldness”.

Since you can’t get plasticoat anymore, your choices are to strip it and polish it to shiny and presentable or get crazy and go for “mirror-like”. I chose presentable as I am too old to wrestle with a cyclo machine for 31’...

I stripped the clear coat with Citristrip and then polished where it had oxidized with plain old Meguires Chrome and Aluminum polish.
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Old 02-05-2021, 06:27 PM   #15
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Yes, I stripped the 86 of the weathered and splochy clear coat. I then spent many, many hours polishing the trailer. It took me two summers of now and then polishing when I had some spare time. I used the Nuvite process using the wool bonnet compounding and then the cyclo dual orbital to remove the swirl marks. Then it rained and got water spots, then I towed it and it got bug splattered, and then the birds pooped on it. Finally, I pulled it over Vail Pass in a snow shower and the road deicer really corroded it. I have to start all over again.

The pre about 71 trailers were made with Alclad, which has a thin layer of pure aluminum cast on the surface. This pure aluminum really polishes up nice. The 70s trailers were made with 6061 aluminum without the pure aluminum coating on top. I'm having trouble polishing my 75 Overlander. I'm going to experiment with the buffing method next.

No doubt vintage Airstreams garner a lot of attention when polished (distracted by something shinny). But it is work to keep it that way.

David
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Old 02-05-2021, 06:42 PM   #16
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Waste Water Tanks

Our 86 is a mid bath with the grey tank and black tank just behind the rear axle. My black tank valve started leaking so I had to replace the blade valve. I had to drop the tank pan to gain access to the valve. I replaced both grey and black blade valves. It is work, but doable. Photos for reference.

The Overlander rear bath has tanks at the rear of the trailer. The tanks were too small in my view, like 15 gallons for the grey tank. My tank pan was rusted through. So I kinda started over with new tanks and a new tank cover.

David
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Old 02-06-2021, 07:18 PM   #17
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I think I'll be leaning towards the 'presentable' polish. I may feel differently on the other side of the reno, but for now just cleaning up some of the splotchy clearcoat. The full polish looks great, but I'm not sure I want to commit that much work yet. Said the guy who's trailer is in pieces in our basement! Ha.

Were the original gate valves at the black and gray tanks glue on? I haven't really looked at the combined valve at the edge of the trailer. We'll be looking at the tanks once the weather gets warmer and I can work under the trailer without freezing.

We've been working in the basement on a lot of the parts that we've removed and are going to reuse. The furnace (NT-30) has been rebuilt and we've gotten one of the rear bedroom overhead cabinets disassembled, cleaned, painted and reassembled. Hopefully one of the Twin bed cabinets will go back together tomorrow.


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Old 02-07-2021, 07:08 PM   #18
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Hello from freezing Colorado: Winter, ain't it grand? The waste tank drain manifold is made from 3" ABS pipe. The drain boss on the tanks is molded with the tank and allows the 3" ABS to slip fit inside. A little butyl caulk is applied, and then a simple hose clamp. No glue involved. The valves can be disassembled and removed without removing the pipes from the tanks if you like. I replaced my leaky Thetford valves with the more basic Valterra ones. I think Valterra has a better seal design.

Your overhead cabinets look good in the photos. We painted our tambour doors on the 76 Sovereign I helped with last winter.

David
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Old 03-22-2021, 08:23 PM   #19
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Ok, so here's a long overdue update on our progress.

We've gotten some warmer weather and the floor removal went into high gear. The floor was in need of replacement all across the back of the trailer and in a narrow band up the sides from the rear to the wheel well on the curb side and the rear to the access hatch on the curb side. So that's been cut out and the belly wraps and banana wraps on both sides of the rear were removed as well. The banana wraps will be reused after a clean and paint. The belly wraps were in rough shape where the connected to the frame and outriggers.

We also found a few surprises when taking out more floor and the belly wraps.

I knew that the rear two street side outriggers were bad and had been reinforced in the past with angle iron, but interestingly, I don't think they were original either. They appear to be meant as wheel well outriggers and only one was meant to be street side. Also, the rear three outriggers on the curb side will need to be replaced as well.

The main frame member on the curb side has some holes that were hidden by the banana wrap and an angle iron that held up the edge of the belly wrap. I'm thinking that I can weld a plate over that whole section to reinforce it, but some of you have more experience with welding than I do, so any thoughts would be appreciated. The top, bottom and other side of the frame steel appear to have surface rust only. Click image for larger version

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Old 03-22-2021, 08:24 PM   #20
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Sorry for the photo formatting.

It seems if I post from my phone the photos all load that way.

I'll post from my laptop for the next part.
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