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Old 11-30-2003, 06:38 AM   #1
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Estimates from Jackson Center?

How does one get an estimate for body work from Jackson Center? Because we live in Tucson, it is not convenient to "drop-in" to the factory for an estimate.

Will the replacement of the passenger rear upper and lower panels and the replacement of the front corners and center section require taking the inside apart? I think I read on this forum that the factory can fix things without taking the insides apart.....maybe it was just wishful thinking.

The rear dent is not much of a dent; Dillons in Apache Junction did their best for $300 and it is not as noticeable as it was--it was right at the belt-line. We were in a hail storm north of Flagstaff this last summer and I can see some slight indentations--Brenda, of course, cannot see them.

Dents/imperfections really bother me; I am beginning to wonder if Airstream's aluminium is a "fit" for my phobia.
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Old 11-30-2003, 06:51 AM   #2
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The best way to get an estimate without actually traveling to Jackson Center would be by taking photos of the damage and emailing them to the service center. I would suggest you call the service center first as, in some cases, you will be able to provide them with enough "graphic" information over the phone for an estimate.

Body work can be done without dismantling the interior. This is done using olympic rivets. For my recent body work, I opted for the other rivet option -- buck rivets -- which meant my interior had to be partially dismantled so the technician could gain access to both sides of the panel. My Airstream was still under warranty so I wanted the original rivets.

Good luck!
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Old 11-30-2003, 08:13 AM   #3
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Kistler - I am wondering why you went to Dillon's in Mesa when you live in the same city as Oasis? I have not heard the best results from the service department at Dillon's. Did you get an estimate from Oasis?

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Old 11-30-2003, 10:32 AM   #4
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Thank you for the replies. I would also like the rivets to match the originals, like you preferred, so I guess that answers that question.

I went to Dillons since I purchased the tt from them. Oasis did my dual cam but I went back to Dillons for the step (warranty work) and while it was there had them work on the dent. I felt guilty asking Oasis to do warranty work when I didn't buy from them.

Oasis does not take trade-in motorhomes; they wished to sell our Jamboree on consignment. Dillons traded the "traditional" way.

Anyone care to give me a "ball park" guess on what my body work will cost?

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Old 11-30-2003, 12:18 PM   #5
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Kistler.

Ball park estimates in most states, create a field day for attorneys, because of the liability.

If the estimate was, as an example, low because of poor pictures or shading, a customer can refuse to pay the difference.

I would be surprised if Jackson Ceneter provided a detailed estimate.

Back to the repairs.

If you want the buck rivets installed, the inside must be removed.
If olympic rivets are used, the inside does not have to be touched.

I don't know of any insurance company that will pay the huge difference between the two repairs, not even on a brand new coach.

As long as the factory, (Jackson Center) has approved the olympic rivet method of repair, then the insurance companies will opt for that method.

Of course, you can still have the buck riveting done, but at your additional expense.

A word of caution as to what dealer you may choose. Make sure that they have the proper tools, parts and the expertice to do the metal work. A beginning point would be to ask them "exactly how, where, when, and with what materials do you use to reseal the coach?

Also how do you support the trailer, when large sheets of metal are removed?

If they use the word "silicone" at all, don't run, "BUT FLY" to someone else.

The vulkem sealer, as an example, should be injected between the two seams of metal, before riveting. That method is superior to the original construction, which only covers the seam on the backside.

Jacks are placed underneath the trailer so that the side that the sheetmetal will be replaced on, cannot move, "PRIOR TO ANY DRILLING." Also what size drill bits will be used, namely number 30 and 21.

If your not positive, ask first. Asking afterward, is "TOO LATE."

Andy
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Old 11-30-2003, 12:25 PM   #6
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Thank you, Andy......does Inland RV do this type of body repair--new panels?

Corona is much more accessible for me than Jackson Center. Insurance would not be paying for any of the repairs; it is elective repair/surgery.

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Old 11-30-2003, 12:49 PM   #7
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Kistler.

We repair, modify, refurbish, make longer, shorter, wider, taller, change floor plans, on any Airstream trailer ever built.

Visit our web site, inlandrv.com

Click on articles and photo's.

Visitors usually can't believe what they see when they visit our shop. We always have units in various stages of tear down, stripped, to being reassembled.

Andy
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Old 11-30-2003, 02:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by Inland RV Center, In

I would be surprised if Jackson Ceneter provided a detailed estimate.
Jackson Center does provide somewhat detailed quotes -- I know cause I've been there and done that.
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Old 11-30-2003, 02:25 PM   #9
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Question Did you

yukionna
Did you just return from Ohio?
If so, how was the drive out there..?
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Old 11-30-2003, 03:50 PM   #10
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Oasis RV does body work. Joe Pershing worked at the factory in California and is more than capable of making the repairs. Ask him for an estimate.
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Old 11-30-2003, 06:20 PM   #11
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Re: Did you

Quote:
Originally posted by 53FlyingCloud
yukionna
Did you just return from Ohio?
If so, how was the drive out there..?
No, I stayed behind for this trip...hubby took the A/S out to the factory over the Thanksgiving holiday. He started out on Wednesday night around 11pm and drove through the night. He indicated traffic was light -- mostly truckers. Thursday was busy though with all the day-trippers on the road. On Friday morning, he drove the better part of 3 hours north of Jackson Center in a snow storm! All in all the trip went well. Now we keep our fingers crossed that the factory does their thing...correctly!

I say "correctly" because they messed up on two out of the 5 things they fixed the last time we went out there! The Mass-to-Ohio trip is getting old fast!
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Old 12-01-2003, 01:02 AM   #12
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Yukionna

What exactly did they mess up?

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Old 12-01-2003, 04:39 AM   #13
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Exclamation Ouch

yukionna

I hear you about the trip, especially since it sounds like he took the Northern route.
I've seen their QC issues as well myself. Of late, all the reports coming back indicate:Airstream is working very hard to overcome these QC issues before they leave the plant.
btw..
You'll have snow today to play in..


ciao
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Old 12-01-2003, 08:03 AM   #14
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You gotta Buck-it, baby! Much better to have solid, one piece rivet with a nice manufactured head, and a solid, bucked shop head on the inside. No working of the rivet in the hole, no sealing problems where the stem of the "pop-rivet" may come loose later on...... and it's original fabrication.

Great stuff on the sealing, Andy. Make sure the rivets get a nice coating of it before sliding them in, too.... and what do they do about oversize holes? Do they, as a rule, go with an oversize rivet for the job? Or do you end up with rivet heads of differing sizes~ no one's perfect, sooner or later someone key-holes a rivet removal.

Hey, Andy..... got any aircraft metal bangers in your shop? Just curious, I run a small warbird restoration hangar in Vegas. Really small. Like just me, right now. Restoring a T-28 right now. Fly the family (employer) Yak-52 as they need. We're in and out of Corona from time to time, love to share trade secrets. Sounds like we do the same thing, sorta. Ok, I have to worry about using flush rivets for speed. Probably not a concern, huh?

I'm getting ready to change the right rear center, upper and lower panels after a really bad tree snuck up on me in a parking lot, and was followed up by a nice present from the tow truck driver who needed new glasses. Too bad I was on the other side of the country at the time of the tow, and they got off scott free. Oh well... at least it was right with the other dings.


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Old 12-01-2003, 10:43 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by qqq
Yukionna

What exactly did they mess up?

Hart
The issues were QA issues that should have been corrected:

1) When they fixed the bathroom door hinge, the technician split the moulding alongside the hinge in one place and pierced the moulding in a second place with the end of the screw. Poor workmanship.

2) When they upgraded the black tank they had to remove the bed mattress and plywood base. During the removal or put-back-together process, the technician ripped a curtain. Could have been an oversight but I still want a new curtain.
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Old 12-03-2003, 03:24 PM   #16
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Contact C&G Trailer Service in Bellflower, CA. They have been in business 40 years only working on Airstreams. The founders of the business worked for Airstream for many years after WWII.

They have an excellent reputation and are highly recommended all over the nation. Email is CGTrailer@aol.com.
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Old 12-03-2003, 07:49 PM   #17
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My estimate

I PM'd Will Henshall about where to go for body work up here in Northern California, and he suggested the guys who repaired his 345 in San Jose. It cost the ins. co. about $8000.00 to fix a hit and run dent!

Does anybody else know of a place for estimates up here? I'm in Santa Rosa, about an hour north of San Francisco.
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Old 12-03-2003, 09:52 PM   #18
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Estimates

This may be way over your budget, but the greatest aluminum bender in the western hemisphere is less than an hour from Santa Rosa. Check the 'tinman' in Nevada City. Tinman
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Old 12-15-2003, 01:14 PM   #19
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Thumbs up

I had some major body work done at Toscano's RV in Los Banos, CA after a hitting a low limb on a big street. They did an awesome job as far as I can tell. They replaced two end panels and cut into the large side panel. I thought it would never look the same but it looks great. Overall, very impressed.
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