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Old 02-25-2011, 03:59 PM   #1
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1968 22' Safari
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Weather stripping

we need to replace the stripping on the overhead vents, the door & outside hatches... does anyone have a good recommendation of who to go to for said item? we'd like to do it ourselves, just need the supplies
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Old 02-25-2011, 04:02 PM   #2
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try Inland RV. that's where I got most of my stuff.
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Old 02-25-2011, 05:30 PM   #3
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try Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies! great products great service
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Old 02-25-2011, 09:41 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by 2vets View Post
I second this opinion. They're East Coast too, so shipping to you should be less moolah. I bought my gaskets from them and they worked so very well. I live amongst the perpetual rain, and now my Airstream doors are more waterproof than my house. And now my trailer door closes properly. Soooo happy!

p.s. they're pretty good at guiding you to the right gasket for each model year of trailer.
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Old 02-26-2011, 07:34 AM   #5
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1968 Rubber Seals

Your entry door and windows originally used the same weatherstrip. It is a double finned black rubber seal. All Airstream dealers sell this part. You can call any of them to have them send it to you. Or you can walk in to one and have them sell it to you for carry out. It is Airstream PN 682520.

Many dealers do not know that it was original equipment on 1968 trailers, but I believe it was for doors and windows. The version Airstream now sells is slightly different from the original. Many 1968 Airstream owners have switched their window seals to easier to use stuff like what we sell with a peel-off adhesive backing. The same can be said for door seals, but we do not currently offer a door seal we recommend. So we recommend Airstream dealers for that.

As for baggage compartment seals... This gets a little tricky. 1968 Airstreams have rectangular (no radius) hinge-less hollow core baggage doors. They are normally framed with a unique extrusion (which we offer) that holds the two aluminum panels and also has a slot on the back of it for a small gray bulb shaped weather seal. No adhesive is used because a T on the bulb seal slides into the channel. We have that part but it is not in our regular catalog. I'm not sure if Airstream dealers still offer that seal. You might check.

Although 1966 to 1968 trailers are considered to be the same for most purposes, this is not true for baggage doors. In 1966 and 1967, the factory just formed the doors using a sheet of Alclad 2024-T0 (not -T3) as the front panel, wrapping it back so that the front of the door has no fasteners in it. I'm guessing this was a pain in the you-know-what and for 1968 they developed the extrusion as a labor saver so they could continue to build sleek doors with no fasteners on the exterior.
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:14 AM   #6
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My 67

Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageRV View Post
Your entry door and windows originally used the same weatherstrip. It is a double finned black rubber seal. All Airstream dealers sell this part. You can call any of them to have them send it to you. Or you can walk in to one and have them sell it to you for carry out. It is Airstream PN 682520.

Many dealers do not know that it was original equipment on 1968 trailers, but I believe it was for doors and windows. The version Airstream now sells is slightly different from the original. Many 1968 Airstream owners have switched their window seals to easier to use stuff like what we sell with a peel-off adhesive backing. The same can be said for door seals, but we do not currently offer a door seal we recommend. So we recommend Airstream dealers for that.

As for baggage compartment seals... This gets a little tricky. 1968 Airstreams have rectangular (no radius) hinge-less hollow core baggage doors. They are normally framed with a unique extrusion (which we offer) that holds the two aluminum panels and also has a slot on the back of it for a small gray bulb shaped weather seal. No adhesive is used because a T on the bulb seal slides into the channel. We have that part but it is not in our regular catalog. I'm not sure if Airstream dealers still offer that seal. You might check.

Although 1966 to 1968 trailers are considered to be the same for most purposes, this is not true for baggage doors. In 1966 and 1967, the factory just formed the doors using a sheet of Alclad 2024-T0 (not -T3) as the front panel, wrapping it back so that the front of the door has no fasteners in it. I'm guessing this was a pain in the you-know-what and for 1968 they developed the extrusion as a labor saver so they could continue to build sleek doors with no fasteners on the exterior.
Steve,

My 67 has baggage doors more like you describe for a 68. Maybe mine was late in the model year. I need to check a little closer about the channel that the bulb seal slides into though, I don't believe mine have it. looking through my pics....now.
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:22 AM   #7
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Rear compartment pic

Not the greatest pic but here is what my 67 looks like. This is a pic of the rear compartment and all mine are built this way.
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:56 AM   #8
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Just went out to take a pic of the compartment door, but was unable to remove any of them right now as they are frozen shut.
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverHoot View Post
Not the greatest pic but here is what my 67 looks like. This is a pic of the rear compartment and all mine are built this way.
Be sure you are looking the frame around the door, not the frame around the door opening. What changed was the door, itself, not the way the opening is framed.
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Old 03-01-2011, 11:36 AM   #10
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Door

Steve,

Here's a pic of one of my doors. Does this look like what you described?
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Old 03-01-2011, 01:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverHoot View Post
Steve,

Here's a pic of one of my doors. Does this look like what you described?

Oooh, that looks as bad as mine. I had a 1/4 strip of some sort of soft foam on mine. I saw very few leak damage in my small doors, and their locations did not look like they would cause me a lot of problems, but would like to seal as much as possible. Rained heavy last night and I found out just how much these things can leak.

Steve from VTS - do you have a skylight foam you can recommend?
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:36 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverHoot
Steve,

Here's a pic of one of my doors. Does this look like what you described?
very similar, yes.
it's those, the door & the 3 roof hatches... all will need new weatherstripping... but Vintage gave me the item# to get it @ my Airstream dealer... I'll re-post later in the month when we are doing it as I'm sure we'll have more ?'s... TY TO ALL for the help
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:31 AM   #13
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Hoot, that pic shows a classic 1966 to 1967 door. They are different in 1968.

The door you show from your 1967 does not have an extruded frame around it. So the weather seal for that can be any low profile quality rubber or foam that is glued on or has an adhesive backing. If using foam, we recommend EPDM because it holds up so well, but you could get by with other closed cell products.

I don't have a measurement of the min/max dimensions you could use so I can't recommend anything in particular, but the generic D seals we sell (for roof vents) might work fine. Try to determine how wide and how thick you can tolerate in that location and then go shopping.
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:36 AM   #14
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Roof hatches are different. If you are shopping for a seal for a late 1960s 14" square (with radiused corners) or rectangular (with radiused corners) roof vent, you'll first need to decide whether you want your gasket on the vent opening or on the lid. Opinions vary as to which is best.

The vent opening has a ledge of about 3/8" width. You could adhere a D seal there. The lids from that era can take a wider D seal... something around 5/8" is ideal if you adhere it there. Again, self-stick is great if you use an acrylic PSA on an EPDM strip.
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Old 07-05-2011, 05:48 AM   #15
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we will hopefully get seals next weekend along w/leveling blocks & stabilizers... our roof vents didn't even leak during yesterday's storms even though their seals are gone... crazy... they just don't make them like they used too... so happy to own a vintage... although we may attach hinges to outside compartments since they are not the greatest design
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Old 07-05-2011, 08:15 AM   #16
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Quote:
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we will hopefully get seals next weekend along w/leveling blocks & stabilizers... our roof vents didn't even leak during yesterday's storms even though their seals are gone... crazy... they just don't make them like they used too... so happy to own a vintage... although we may attach hinges to outside compartments since they are not the greatest design
If you wish to install hinges on your 68 doors, you will need to shorten the heighth of them first.

They all fit in a groove at the top.

Also the "D" shaped gasket has proven far superior to the old double flanged gasket.

Andy
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Old 07-05-2011, 10:44 AM   #17
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Andy,
What size "D" gasket is best for 69 Globetrotter entry door? I like that gasket better as well.
Thanks,
Rick
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Old 07-05-2011, 05:10 PM   #18
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Andy,
What size "D" gasket is best for 69 Globetrotter entry door? I like that gasket better as well.
Thanks,
Rick
Rick.

The same one that's used on the windows.

Andy
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Old 11-06-2011, 03:12 AM   #19
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Bumping this thread

I am so glad to find this thread! I've been puzzling over how I would be able to affordably replace two missing compartment doors. I want to follow up on a couple of posts, and add my $.02 experience.

SilverHoot:
"Steve,

Here's a pic of one of my doors. Does this look like what you described?"

Steve:
"Hoot, that pic shows a classic 1966 to 1967 door. They are different in 1968.

The door you show from your 1967 does not have an extruded frame around it. So the weather seal for that can be any low profile quality rubber or foam that is glued on or has an adhesive backing. If using foam, we recommend EPDM because it holds up so well, but you could get by with other closed cell products.

I don't have a measurement of the min/max dimensions you could use so I can't recommend anything in particular, but the generic D seals we sell (for roof vents) might work fine. Try to determine how wide and how thick you can tolerate in that location and then go shopping."

Anne:
Actually, the compartment doors on my 1968 Trade Wind are like the one SilverHoot shows. I have an album on Picasa with pictures of the street-side compartment door for the hatch under the dinette gaucho on that side, the hatch opening frame, the refrigerator compartment missing its door, and the now-missing rear door.

I just tried to order the extrusions for the hingeless compartment door construction, but VTS is currently sold out.

I am trying to find used compartment doors from 66, 67, 68 Airstreams being parted out. If I can't find them, and/or afford them, I will try to build replacements. The VTS extrusions are crucial to this option.

Click here to see my album of compartment door photos.
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Old 11-06-2011, 11:18 AM   #20
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I am thinking I might be able to make the box frame and edges from stock available at the big DIY stores, and i already have the right skin aluminum for a wheel well area repair I need to make. I will give it a try and if I succeed, I will post pics.

I am learning the Ipad version, i hope this pic shows.

Maybe I should start a new thread?

https://picasaweb.google.com/1155617...treamTradeWind
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