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Old 10-20-2014, 10:54 PM   #41
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1952 25' Cruiser
1967 22' Safari
1969 18' Caravel
Palo Alto , California
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Ours are also all on the inside. We re did a '67 Safari-not a shell off though, the floor was ok for the most part. In the blog, you can see the new axle we got from inland rv. We installed all new tanks. We ended up putting a bumper on it from a '48 cadillac. You can check it out at: (just ignore the dollhouse stuff and click on Safari on the top right)

theweetinker.blospot.com
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:47 AM   #42
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1967 22' Safari
West Fork , Arkansas
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Mark & Denise,
You have a great blog documenting your excellent Safari adaptation and rehab work. We like your dinette revisions and having drawers instead of hangers in the closet.
Jim & Jane
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Old 10-22-2014, 01:11 AM   #43
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1952 25' Cruiser
1967 22' Safari
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Thanks Jim & Jane-it looks as if you guys are well on your way. I wish we had an Airstream school out here. Our Safari is only for two people because our kids are out of the house so the layout works for us. You could also make the table a drop down kind so you could have a bed where the gaucho used to be.

Denise
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Old 10-22-2014, 11:07 AM   #44
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Woodstock , Georgia
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The license plate n my 66 is mounted just like yours with the light over it.
Great trailer.
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AIR #005
Please visit our blogs and web pages:
OUR AIRSTREAM PASSION! BLOG
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Old 10-23-2014, 04:38 PM   #45
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1967 22' Safari
West Fork , Arkansas
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Progress pics

Great blog links can be found in the replies from MarkDenise & AlanSD.

Just to share some pics, attached shows insulation installed and then covered with the second plywood panel. Today I removed the next 1.5 pieces of subfloor, revealing similar conditions of rust and destroyed fiberglass insulation as discovered before. Some of the frame by the door is so rusted it has evaporated. I wish I were a welder! The PO's apparently loved mice based on all the openings in the belly pan. I'm closing them and re-securing belly pan to frame.
Jim
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Old 10-23-2014, 05:06 PM   #46
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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Hello Jim,

My folks lived in Eureka Springs for 15 years in their retirement. We visited often. NW Arkansas is lovely.

I believe you can learn to weld fairly quickly. It takes practice, like running a smooth caulk bead or bucking a rivet with just the right clamp. I'm not a welder either, but I want to learn. I don't think it is that difficult.

Your 67 Safari frame looks like my 66 Trade Wind frame. Although I did not have anything more than surface rust on mine. I did have rear floor rot and had to replace the last four feet of subfloor under the bath.

I'm enjoying your thread.

David
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Old 11-14-2014, 10:24 AM   #47
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1967 22' Safari
West Fork , Arkansas
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Onward

Thanks David!

We have now installed 3 of 5 sub-floor plywood sheets and removed the last of old sub-floor, see pics. One step that was different on sheet 3 is that after the plywood was in place, we put a strap through door opening and refrigerator access panel, put it under the belly pan and then pulled it tight with a wench. This made it easier to get the bottom wall track on top of the flooring.

For the deteriorated frame at the door, after cleaning and grinding, rust converter and enamel spray, a steel angle was placed beneath the existing steel with SS rivets to hold in place. Then I used a sheet of steel on top of existing frame under the threshold, bent down on the other 3 edges for strength and secured with self tapping screws. It's not as good as what a skilled welder could do but it seems to work.

Before removing the remaining subf-floor, patterns were drawn and a full size paper pattern scribed for the curved end. There is still some old sub-floor to dig out around the curved portion. Next I'll work on that and start cleaning up the rusty steel.
Jim
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Old 11-14-2014, 06:30 PM   #48
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Very nice. You're getting the subfloor replaced without lifting the shell. I figured it could be done, although maybe more work.

Interesting to see how the end cap ribs don't reach the C channel. Airstream must have done this on purpose for some reason. It appears the side wall ribs reach the C channel.

David
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Old 11-15-2014, 10:33 AM   #49
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Replacing sub-floor with shell seemed easier to me but it requires at least one splice where sub-floor is beneath walls. It is essential to structural integrity that floor goes back beneath perimeter wall channel. Those who do shell off projects are going first class.
It is strange that some vertical channels do not go to the bottom track.
Jim
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Old 11-15-2014, 11:24 AM   #50
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1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
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I replaced the subfloor, shell on, without splicing the floorboards, it's very easy and I did It in a very short time. You just have to think outside of the box


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Old 11-17-2014, 01:00 PM   #51
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[QUOTE=Aerowood;1540888]I replaced the subfloor, shell on, without splicing the floorboards, it's very easy and I did It in a very short time. You just have to think outside of the box


A great thing about Air Forums is learning of alternate routes to a successful restoration. From looking at your thread, did you do this by removing some of the exterior aluminum below the bottom wall track and slipping plywood in from the outside?
Jim
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Old 11-17-2014, 01:46 PM   #52
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No, I disconnected all the sidewall to floor connections on both sides of the trailer, the sidewalls then flexed out ward enough to install the one piece floor. You just have to remember to support the rear of the shell while sliding in the most aft sheet. The front is supported by the front hold down plate. None of the shell was bolted back down until all the floor panels were installed. It was nice to be able to jack the shell up in places to install new "C" channel. I was then able to clamp long straight edges to the inside ribs and then drill all the new shell to frame attachment holes. I used a long extruded aluminum "I" beam for the straight edge.
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Old 11-17-2014, 02:00 PM   #53
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If you look far enough into my thread you will see that I also attached the ribs to the "C" channels and tied the ribs to the stringers, this made a huge difference into the overall structural integrity of the shell.
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Old 12-31-2014, 10:32 AM   #54
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1967 22' Safari
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New Deadbolt & Hatch Doors

With my skilled brother-in-law here for the holidays, we tackled two improvements from VTS, a custom deadbolt and replacement small hatches.
Installing the deadbolt required care in measuring and cutting but this VTS jamb installed deadbolt minimized damage to door frame. We added wood blocking for support. Now it's the best looking and most effective hardware on our much abused doorway. See photos.

We also used the VTS perimeter extrusions and locks to fabricate two small hatch doors. VTS markets this product for the baggage door but since the framed opening for smaller doors is the same profile, it works just as well. Cutting miters required wood blocking during the cut to avoid deforming the aluminum. We found that the 1 1/8" lock cylinder was just barely long enough. Try to find the next size up if you do this. See photos.
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Old 12-31-2014, 10:47 AM   #55
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Roof frame exposed

This week we removed two ceiling panels to reveal conditions. Some of the insulation was OK but about half revealed water or rodent damage. I was surprised to find two sheets of aluminum below the frame, probably to hold insulation in place. It was shocking to find how the AC installation chopped through framing with no perimeter reinforcement. Some of the exterior rivets had popped and skin separated from frame. See photos.

I'll repair the frame first, then deal with insulation and wiring. Also hope to find a way to drain the AC by piping within a wall rather than continue to let condensate run down the skin. The AC is a Coleman Mach that shows it has a small drain pan.

Rear exterior also looks a bit better now. All the tow truck to trailer wiring checks out but axle and brakes are not yet replaced.
Jim
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Old 12-31-2014, 06:48 PM   #56
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Happy New Year Jim. I don't see any snow on the ground around your Airstream. That's not like Minnesota.

What did you use for sealing gaskets for your new cargo doors? I simply rebuilt mine as the lock had oblonged the mounting holes and there was silicone all over it to keep it from leaking. Both the rear door and the rear curb side door have T handle locks on them. The fridge pilot light door has just a key lock on it. The rear ones were probably changed sometime in the past.

I notice these doors are made with a tapered edge, and they seem to fit rather tight when the lock is twisted shut. Mine do not have any sealing gasket, and it doesn't look like there was one there before I got the trailer.

David
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Old 01-01-2015, 10:18 AM   #57
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1967 22' Safari
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hatch doors

David,
No snow around here but we might see some freezing rain today. Yuck!

The aluminum perimeter extrusions are Vintage Trailer Supply item 869, $19.99 for 46" stick. These come with a 1/4" rubber gasket that snaps into a perimeter groove. Cam or other type of lock and aluminum sheet are additional parts required. Of course I put 3/4" rigid insulation between.
Happy 2015!
Jim
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Old 01-01-2015, 04:58 PM   #58
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Thank you Jim. Appreciate the info. It's really neat the way VTS has found suppliers for this old stuff. I have spent way too many dollars at VTS, but they have stuff I need. Looks like I'll be spending some more.

My folks lived in Eureka Springs for 15 years during their retirement. They loved every day of it! Beautiful country, but more importantly the folks were so friendly there. Southern hospitality in spades! We visited them many times.

But the dog gone ice storms were tough. Maybe worse than the snow storms we get up here.

David
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Old 01-23-2015, 08:21 PM   #59
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1967 22' Safari
West Fork , Arkansas
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Smile clear coat off

Jane & I stripped the remainder of the original clear coat off in the past week. Previously we had removed only the butt end coating. We used the gallon of RemovAll purchased a couple of years ago. First we washed, then power-washed and brushed on the RemovAll, let it sit overnight as instructions recommend and then spent a frustrating half day power-spraying to get the crap off. The next two days we reapplied RemovAll to the dried on chemical and then hand scrubbed it off. In the end, not bad!
A side benefit to washing allowed us to check and mark leaks once more.

There is a temporary platform on top so I can add one Fantastic Fan and try to get the AC condensate drain to go through tubing within the wall rather than across the outer skin.

The rear (bathroom) shell is off now so I can repair a crude hole by PO for a vent, rewire and try for better insulation. It isn't obvious but I've framed around the AC roof opening, added aluminum angles where the wall framing had been damaged on the street side and added aluminum angles in the wall at the front end for securing our bed. For the dining table support, I'm planning to add a second layer of aluminum sheet with top and bottom edges folded inward for greater rigidity.


Jim
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Old 01-23-2015, 09:00 PM   #60
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Looks nice, keep up the good work.


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