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Old 01-23-2013, 01:18 PM   #21
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1967 22' Safari
West Fork , Arkansas
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missing window part

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Originally Posted by TouringDan View Post
I really like your guest/storage shed. It looks like a great design. Nice location and view too.

You might show a photo of your rear window so others can see what parts you need.

Dan
Dan,
Thanks for asking for photo. Attached are 2 shots, 1 of rear window with the missing glass bar and another window with both hinge and glass bar. As far as I can tell, this is a Type 2 system as used on late '66 and '67 models until April '67.
Jim
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:47 AM   #22
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Parts contact

Jim,

Try, Ryan @ RvRevive.com they are located in Waterloo< Ia and have been in the rv service arena for 32 years+. They show loads of Airstream trailers and MoHo's on there web site. Give them a call and if you have no luck on the parts you need let me know. Hope this helps, Ed
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:14 PM   #23
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Thumbs up Rear Window Found!

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Originally Posted by BIGED52 View Post
Jim,

Try, Ryan @ RvRevive.com they are located in Waterloo< Ia and have been in the rv service arena for 32 years+. They show loads of Airstream trailers and MoHo's on there web site. Give them a call and if you have no luck on the parts you need let me know. Hope this helps, Ed
Ed,
Following your advice I contacted Ryan and by coincidence they were taking apart a '67 Safari today and will be shipping the whole window to me including Corning glass. I told him you had recommended him.
Jim
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:44 PM   #24
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Great!

Jim, So glad I was able to help you in your search. Now since he was parting out a '67 what other parts do you need. Also, think about what parts that he may have that you want to add to your trailer. Perhaps awnings, or a scare/flood light. You may want a few spares such as the Phillips latches that close the windows to the body of the trailer. These are hard to get and are like finding hens teeth. Lots of things to consider! Keep us up to date on your updates and restore. Lots of pictures are required. Inquiring minds want to know. Happy Trails, Ed
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Old 01-26-2013, 03:36 PM   #25
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Folks,
As of today I have removed the 3/8" second subfloor and bath fixtures---except for one thing. The tub/shower is disconnected and moved out of that room but it has a minimum dimension of 27" and the exterior doorway frame is 26 1/4" maximum. How have others have solved this issue? If it requires removing the door frame, I might pursue phasing the subfloor replacement with bath area first, refinish the tub in the "living room" and then reinstall.

One surprise to me is that the original construction had a pocket bath door. Was that typical?
Your advice would be appreciated as always.
Jim
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:06 PM   #26
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Quote:
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Folks,
As of today I have removed the 3/8" second subfloor and bath fixtures---except for one thing. The tub/shower is disconnected and moved out of that room but it has a minimum dimension of 27" and the exterior doorway frame is 26 1/4" maximum. How have others have solved this issue? If it requires removing the door frame, I might pursue phasing the subfloor replacement with bath area first, refinish the tub in the "living room" and then reinstall.

One surprise to me is that the original construction had a pocket bath door. Was that typical?
Your advice would be appreciated as always.
Jim
Jim, Yes the pocket door was the original divider for the bath area to the living area/kitchen galley area. Are any of the parts still with the trailer? If not call Ryan back and see if he has the components you need to put it back the way it was. As far as the Tub removal you will have to gently work it thru the door by tipping it and flexing it around and thru the doorway. The key here is using some pads and lightly use force enough and extra people to very gently flex and work the assembly thru the door. Also, some times items will fit thru the front or rear window openings easier than thru the door. Take your time and you will be able to get it out of the trailer without doing any damage to it. Be careful not to twist/flex it too much as you don't want to crack or split the material. Hope this helps. Ed
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Old 01-27-2013, 04:30 PM   #27
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Demo Progress

Attached shows progress to this point. Let's just say the second sub-floor of 3/8" ply was well screwed. With that removed several rat holes were revealed and at some of the elevator bolts the ply is dust. Still moving backwards and more demo to go until the original sub-floor could be removed.

I'm thinking that new sub-floor could be 5/8" BCX plywood secured with McFeely's self tapping SS, 1 7/8" square drive, trailer deck screws.

Water supply will be replaced with the Pex + Sea Tech fittings and 120V AC electric will be mostly rewired with a new distribution box for 4 - 15 amp breakers versus 2 - 20 amp original. Other items TBD.
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Old 02-10-2013, 04:39 PM   #28
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demo continues

Slow demo progress continues as evidenced by photo of naked bath area.
With help from Steve Hingtgen of VTS I think we can get the dump valve to function again even though a PO put flange bolts in backward and then cemented the flange in place. Now the issue is how to remove the toilet flange so the new Sealand Lite Low toilet can be installed. The ABS flange seems to have been screwed into a black flange or gasket but did the PO cement it too? So far I have not budged it and am considering using a 4" hole saw. See pics. Suggestions?
Jim
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:05 PM   #29
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Flange removal

Jim, Try using some heat from a high volume hair dryer to heat up the flange. Before heating it up place a pipe wrench on the flange that has a long enough handle that will give you some extra leverage. Apply some adhesive remover to the top of the threads and let it soak in for about 15 minutes. Once it is heated up gently apply pressure counter clockwise and see if it begins to unscrew. If it moves slightly continue to apply heat and more adhesive remover as it unscrews. Continue to unscrew a little at a time. Don't get in a hurry as you don't want it to break off or damage the tank itself. Ed
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:13 PM   #30
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Thanks!
I have brushed out the gasket joint, sprayed silicone, applied heat with a heat gun and tried various means to grip it for turning but so far no adhesive remover. I'll get some of that next.
I found a shade tree sheet metal guy to make a new SS pan for the BW tank for not much $.
Jim
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:54 PM   #31
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slow progress = better than none

I've been sidetracked with other priorities for several months.

Today I tested the repaired blackwater tank valve and no leaks. I found the original repair kit on eBay for the same price as originally marked. The old toilet flange came out easily when we filled the tank with hot water. The photo shows it in the new SS pan with repaired insulation. Yeah!

The sheet metal guy also fabricated a SS countertop, inside wheel well covers and replacements for the back part of the belly pan. My brother repaired the damaged bumper.

My question for today is if the axle is original equipment. I suspect it is. The axle nameplate has no date but reads", as far as i could tell "Airstream Dura-Torque Axle,, Axle Rating 5000 lbs, Pat No 2-712-742, Mfg by Henchen Ind. Corp. Jackson Center, O" It has a shock absorber on each side.
Jim
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:37 PM   #32
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Yes that is original, just like the one I took out
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:35 PM   #33
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Axle...

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Originally Posted by JRF0st3r View Post
I've been sidetracked with other priorities for several months.

Today I tested the repaired blackwater tank valve and no leaks. I found the original repair kit on eBay for the same price as originally marked. The old toilet flange came out easily when we filled the tank with hot water. The photo shows it in the new SS pan with repaired insulation. Yeah!

The sheet metal guy also fabricated a SS countertop, inside wheel well covers and replacements for the back part of the belly pan. My brother repaired the damaged bumper.

My question for today is if the axle is original equipment. I suspect it is. The axle nameplate has no date but reads", as far as i could tell "Airstream Dura-Torque Axle,, Axle Rating 5000 lbs, Pat No 2-712-742, Mfg by Henchen Ind. Corp. Jackson Center, O" It has a shock absorber on each side.
Jim

Jim, Yeah that is the original axle and yeah it needs to be replaced. Call InlandRv with your model/year and vin# and they will quote you the price to replace it with one that will bolt right up. I think you may be able to pick the new axle up as a will call from the axle plant in Jackson Center, Ohio if they still allow that. Not sure if Henchen is still in business but I'm sure someone here will know. If not Inland will ship you a replacement axle for their shipping fees. Ed
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Old 10-14-2013, 11:47 AM   #34
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update 10-14-13

We are still on the butt end but about ready to install insulation and that first sub-floor panel. See pics. In addition to fabricating a replacement pan for the black water tank, we also replaced the belly pan beneath it and the support angles. We've begun the polishing process to install new rear lights. That's the replacement rear window in the pic from the source suggested by BIGED52. Perfect!
In the bumper trunk sheet metal floor still needs the hole for drain hose before it is riveted in place. Most mouse holes have been closed in this area but what should I do around the dump valve?
Also, the notch for shore power cable in the rear hatch could give mice access. Is this the original solution? Have you found a better way?
Thanks as always,
Jim
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Old 11-03-2013, 04:44 PM   #35
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rear subfloor install

Today I installed the first sheet of subfloor. I cut it into 3 pieces, put on some plywood splices to stitch it back together, then slipped the sides into position first, see photos. My idea was to get at least 1 1/4" of subfloor beneath the perimeter aluminum channels.
After some adjusting of cuts made for utilities, I set the middle panel into place.
I painted both sides with a high quality acrylic primer with mildew prevention added. Also drew the frame and black water tank on the face to help with later bolting down, etc.
Although I really tried not to damage the pipes coming from the tank, the vent pipe broke off. Yikes! Is there a way to repair?
Jim
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Old 01-25-2014, 08:18 PM   #36
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rear end progress

We had a new rear hatch panel made by one of the better known dealers but even after sending the first one back for wrong size, they sent back someone's slightly smaller bent reject made from aluminum, not Alclad. Oh well...
We did rework the incoming AC power to come through the bottom of this service area to avoid cutting a notch in the access panel. This allowed enough room to install power conditioning system. If we were smarter we might not have put the conditioning system behind the license plate but then it does have remote readout. The new distribution box has 4 - 15 amp breakers.
Jim
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:26 AM   #37
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Update

Jim, Your lic. plate actually should be mounted to the rear service center hatch cover. Not the best design A/S ever came up with due to the fact that if the hatch was lost while traveling so was your state tag! If you are interested I may know someone that could still have an original rear hatch cover. PM me if you wish to try that route. Ed
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Old 10-19-2014, 04:28 PM   #38
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Small steps but it's progress!

This May I attended the Vintage Trailer Academy in Albuquerque and learned a bunch from some folks with lots of experience. Until recently though my consulting obligations plus normal chores on our farmstead have conflicted with AS rehab.

We area about ready to install insulation below subfloor for the second plywood sheet. Using mineral fiber (Roxul) because it has excellent R value, won't burn, won't mildew and vermin hate it. We will cut the plywood for assembly in two pieces with a below floor splice. The rear sheet required 3 pieces and 2 splices to slip beneath the perimeter shell frame.

Question of the day is how should PEX water supply line be routed from rear to front storage tank? I knew it comes in on top of the rear subfloor panel and all of the fixtures are connected to above floor lines concealed behind cabinets, etc. I am putting the storage tank where it was originally so one cold water line needs to get to it. I could run it on top of insulation below subfloor but is there an advantage to keeping it above? If above, should it be placed between inner and outer wheel well covers?
Jim
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Old 10-19-2014, 05:08 PM   #39
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All the water lines in our '66 Safari run above the plywood floor. The line from front to rear runs along the street side of the trailer along the edge of the floor--including a u-shape that follows the lower edge of the wheel well. It's all inside--not between anything. It's all under cabinets or gauchos so it doesn't show.

The advantage to having all the water lines inside the trailer is protection from freezing. If you stay warm, the water lines will also.
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:35 PM   #40
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I agree with mimi. Installing them above the floor allows access for installation and maintenance also. All the pex lines in my TW are installed above the floor in cabinets or behind floor trim.

Dan
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