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Jack McAllis · 01-16-2012, 07:23 AM

Ed, back on page 3 of this thread series, Lee had sent me some wiring schematics from what I believe is his owners manual. One of those images is the low voltage panel. I printed that page and simply copied the layout 100%. I reused the 40 amp glass fuse holder from the old panel but everything else is new. I got new 20 amp LV circuit breakers at Camping World. They were around $5 ea. The only change I made was the wire color for power coming from the 7 way harness. My harness has that line as black instead of blue like Airstream the schematic shows. I mounted all of this on a 0.75" piece of painted furniture grade plywood. I used aluminum "L" to route the inbound and outbound circuits and installed rubber grommets at each location for safety. I will post better photos later this week. I'm in Las Vegas for a trade show until Thursday.
Jack

Jack McAllis · 01-20-2012, 05:56 PM

Ed,
Attached is an image of the wiring schematic for the low voltage panel. I copied this diagram 100%. If you can, print it on an 8.5"x11" sheet of paper and and it should be large enough to use for a working copy with all color and origin information.
Jack

Jack McAllis · 01-20-2012, 06:15 PM

Ed,
I enlarged and broke the photo of my LV panel into two pieces so you should be able to see the abels better. C-1, C-2, and C-3 are the 3 circuits that connect to the lights, fans, etc. circuits shown on the diagram and coincide with BRK-1, BRK-2, and BRK-3 (low voltage circuit breakers). Even though my original panel was a scary mess, the 3 circuits were connected to the old breakers correctly and when plugged in to a power source, the lights, etc. did work (through the old Univolt). All white wires are grounds from the different points.
Hope this helps.

Jack

BIGED52 · 01-20-2012, 11:09 PM

Jack, Thanks for the enlarged pics. Your panel looks to be just what I will update mine to! My new battery tray is Poly so no more rusted/corroded tiedowns or tray. Once I replace the missing ceiling fixture and repair the cone lights above the twin beds I can test the wiring upgrade and panel. What did you replace the Univolt with? I bought a converter from InlandRV but my Univolt was gone so I am confused about a fuse panel that Andy Rogozinski said was needed (from a Univolt) to hook it up. Ed

Jack McAllis · 01-22-2012, 02:31 PM

Ed, I may actually reuse my Univolt...it was working fine when I bought the Safari but my local travel trailer dealer does sell converters which I'm sure are more modern. I've studied the schematics a lot and am not sure what fuse panel Andy is referring to unless he's talking about the low voltage panel which has the 3 LV circuit breakers and two 40 AMP fuses on board. My electrics were scary looking when I acquired the Safari but surprisingly, everything worked when plugged in (both 12V and 120V circuits) and there was no fuse panel beyond what's in the schematics. The weather here in GA is still rotten (not cold but very wet) so I've now worked on and remade the 120V service entrance panel today. I'll post photos soon but it's pretty much like house wiring. I hope to have her legs (wheeels/hubs/brakes/etc.) back under her next week (didn't receive the grease seals this week). I'm then moving her to the concrete driveway to build scaffolding around her to clean and seal all the aluminum seams. Will also probably remove the OEM AC unit. I think that hole may become a skylight with blinds. I have a different plan for heat and A/C which I'll share later. The good thing about the massive rains we've had here in N. GA is that I now know it's like going into a shower inside the Safari when it's raining hard. I'm still running a full test on all elec circuits before putting the new floor down because I'm running new dedicated 120V circuits to the A/C, fridge, and micro under the new floor and reusing the other standard circuits. I'm not daunted by the leaks given her age. But before pulling new wire and installing a new subfloor, the plan is to clean and re-seal all the seams. Anyone have recommendations on what to use on the seams for waterproofing? Thanks for the visits and stay tuned...
Jack

kevinb · 01-23-2012, 08:07 AM

Jack

I really liked working w/sikaflex 221. It cleans up w/soap and water. Areas where you may have a lot of UV exposure like top of window frames use sikaflex 721. Got it in Cumming, GA

Kevin

Jack McAllis · 01-23-2012, 05:02 PM

Kevin, thanks. I'll look into Silkaflex for sure.

My "obsolete" grease seals arrived today and are correct (which I'm very happy about). These are the last parts needed to get her feet back under her. The rims are newly media blasted and painted gloss black with urethane paint. So, this weekend I hope to get the drums and wheels back on with the new bearings etc. Will post photos if the weather cooperates.
Jack

BIGED52 · 01-23-2012, 06:26 PM

Acryl=R is what many used for seams as it wicks into the small openings between the skins. Ed

Jack McAllis · 01-27-2012, 06:11 PM

I don't do it often but took a vacation day today and got her legs back under her. The axles are fully rebuilt with new bearing and seals and new brake system (not rebuilt). The original rims (including one for a spare) were media blasted and painted with industrial black enamel (I stated the paint incorrectly in a previous post as urethane). New Goodyear Marathons and baby Moons...
Moving her to the concrete this weekend for scaffolding to work on sealing the seams and removal of the old A/C system on the roof. Once she's water tight, the plan is to finish the internal wiring, test all circuits and reinstall the subfloor.

Ed and Kevin, thanks for imput on sealing the seams. I difinitely have challenges in that area.

Jack

BIGED52 · 01-28-2012, 12:52 PM

Jack, Axle and wheels look great! Keep up the good work and it will be ready to camp in real soon. Have you spoken with an AC repair shop about the AC unit? I was told to keep mine as it cools so much better than the newer units. So when I get to that point I will try to have it re-built. Ed

Jack McAllis · 01-30-2012, 06:30 PM

Ed, I haven't spoken to anyone about the AC unit. I did try to start it up when I first brought the Safari home last July. The PO said it was disconnected at the service entrance and I did mess with the wiring and put in new capacitors. Not even a hum out of it. I have some other ideas for heat and cooling so if I remove the old unit and you want it for parts, let me know. I think mine is shot though.

This past weekend beyond getting wheels back on , I pressure washed the naked interior. It was worth the effort as a lot of crud washed out the bottom. Now I feel better about pulling new wiring below the subfloor. I also removed the holding tank. I think my tank will be ok but the styrofoam it sits in is toast. I hope I can find something similar to put under the tank. I will post photos later but will be needing the Dometic grill that vents the OEM fridge. Mine is missing some of the louver fins and I do want to keep that vent/grill in use. I have the part number and some photos but I'm traveling again so I'll post those when I return home.

More to come.
Jack

BIGED52 · 01-30-2012, 07:49 PM

Jack, I have one back-up for parts but I appreciate the offer. When thinking alternate heating/cooling keep in mind that the old Suburban furnace is ducted into the box that surrounds the Black Tank. The reason of coarse is to help keep it from freezing up in cold weather. When you plan your Gray Water and Black Water Tanks you'll need to plan how to heat the spaces they will live in. Just a thought. Waiting to see what you come up with. Both Inland and VTS have some grills they stock. My issue with the refer is the vent chimney. I am still looking at what to do to repair/replace mine as a PO tried re-riveting it to the inner skin and it is very badly cracked on both edges. Ed

kevinb · 01-31-2012, 07:33 AM

Jack

We are pretty close, I may take you up on your a/c offer. Mine ran and was cooling for about 30min. then stopped cooling. I've got a buddy who is going to fix it for me in the spring so parts may come in handy. Or we can see if we can get yours going.
Also if you are not going to use your original shroud, I know Bruce was looking for one.
Kevin

Jack McAllis · 01-31-2012, 06:44 PM

Kevin,
I am not going to use the OEM AC. You can have it if you want...not sure when it will be removed. Bruce would be welcome to the shroud but it was not there when I bought the trailer...
Jack

Jack McAllis · 01-31-2012, 06:48 PM

I need the grille in the photos...Mine is missing a louver fin and a few more are almost to the breaking point. Will post on the classifieds but thought I'd ask.
Thanks,
Jack

BIGED52 · 01-31-2012, 10:32 PM

Jack, My trailer doesn't have a vent grill in the side of the trailer at all. Behind the refer there is an opening in the floor with wirecloth covering and matching wirecloth covered opening in the belly pan. Is your grill screwed to the outer skin? That is so strange that I am wondering if it was a factory change/update. What is your last 3 digits on your serial number (sequential production number)? Mine is 337 from Jackson Center. Perhaps yours came before or after mine and one of us has a factory change of venting required by Dometic. This is a Mystery! Ed

kevinb · 02-01-2012, 06:35 AM

My fridge is vented like Ed's. I do have a vent in the curbside for the bowen water heater. You might be able to find a water htr. vent or vent thru the bottom and look for an access door for that spot, which is what I have where your vent is located.

Kevin

I will pm you about the A/C.

BIGED52 · 02-01-2012, 11:11 AM

Kevin, Your trailer is the same as mine as I have an access door there too! I wonder if Jack has a factory upgrade or maybe some damaged was done to his trailer and the vent grill was used as a fix/repair?

Jack, Check to see if the belly skin has a 18"+ square "patch" in the skin or if your belly skin is solid. Ed

Jack McAllis · 02-01-2012, 07:24 PM

All,
I have the wire cloth in the floor but the vent (access door) is a Dometic part number and is totally aligned with where the OEM Fridge was and appeared to be for servicing or dealing with the gas/electrics. I can't detect that there was damage in this area of the trailer and the Dometic fridge was in it's original location and the PO said worked (I didn't try it though and it's long gone). At any rate, I'm interested in keeping the access door (but also making it presentable) for my new AC / Fridge plans...It will serve a few purposes. If I have to, I belive I can resotre mine to decent aesthetic condition. The louvers are functional and very cool (as in 60's hot rods). I'll share the AC plans/idea soon.
Jack