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Old 11-10-2010, 07:26 PM   #41
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Did it

I just did the lower left plan but added a sheet of aluminum under the L ,riveted but left loose and not attached to ply so if any gets under it will run off.I will seal the portion I trimmed to curve it and it will be covered by .63 aluminum lid w/ piano hinge
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Old 11-11-2010, 09:00 AM   #42
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The lower left option sure looks like the best to me. My only questions would be Where do the rivets go? and Will they compromise the water-tightness of that approach?

There sure is an end in sight - the back end of your Safari is probably appearing in your dreams by now. You've made huge progress and are close to finishing what is probably the single-most important repair for your Safari. Keep the water out and it'll last forever!
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Old 11-12-2010, 04:40 AM   #43
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rivets

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Originally Posted by Dag68 View Post
The lower left option sure looks like the best to me. My only questions would be Where do the rivets go? and Will they compromise the water-tightness of that approach?

There sure is an end in sight - the back end of your Safari is probably appearing in your dreams by now. You've made huge progress and are close to finishing what is probably the single-most important repair for your Safari. Keep the water out and it'll last forever!
I put the rivets through the added pieces and through the frame where it sits.I then reinstalled the beltline trim and sealed top of trim only.
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Old 11-12-2010, 06:28 AM   #44
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Great thread

BWH-

I haven't looked at this thread in a while -- great job!

I struggled with the rear flashing idea for a while and ended up doing the lower right, with plenty of vulkem. I don't think I have an issue after 2 years of use.

Another thought for you, originally an idea from CJohnson. If you do get moisture inside, you obviously need to allow air to move between the aluminum walls. Here's my version of his solution -- a hole right through the c-channel and ply with a 1" forstner bit, covered with screen. Should allow any condensation or leakage to dry out.

You were asking for more work, weren't you?

John
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Old 11-18-2010, 10:25 AM   #45
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It's Going Back Together !

At last ! It is a great new world.
I am finally putting her back together instead of constantly taking her apart.
The new floor is in, seems to fit nicely. My neighbor bent the aluminum strips I cut (post #39) into C-channel sections, and they are also in place.
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I used 5/16" stainless steel carriage bolts to attach the C-channel to the plywood around the outside. Where the bolts went through the frame I added steel plates (1" x 3/8" x 3" each) on top to spread the force across a greater portion of the C-channel (Andy's advice, post #37). To eliminate the bi-metal corrosion problem of putting the steel directly on top of the aluminum C-channel I put a piece of fiberglass (orange) in between the C-channel and the steel plate. The fiberglass was a scrap from broken sign post of some sort (1/8" x 1 1/4" x 5" each). It feels rock solid.

Here is a view from underneath.
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A thing of beauty, I tell ya. After all the dirty work cleaning it up (back in posts 31->34) this is truly a beautiful photo; at least to me. You can see the heads of a couple of the carriage bolts around the edge of the plywood. I still need to install the elevator bolts at the interior attachment points, they will be 5/16" as well. Then some new insulation, followed by sliding the new belly-skin up between the C-channel and the outer-skin. At that point I can rivet the outer-skin, belly-skin, and C-channel all together. One more weekend of work and I should be ready for winter.
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Old 11-18-2010, 02:20 PM   #46
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Bumper Box Flashing

Quote:
Originally Posted by bwaysteve View Post
I just did the lower left plan but added a sheet of aluminum under the L , riveted but left loose and not attached to ply so if any gets under it will run off. I will seal the portion I trimmed to curve it and it will be covered by .63 aluminum lid w/ piano hinge
Steve, thanks for the photo, it is always good to see that I am not way out in left field on my own.
I actually spent a bunch of time last weekend working on a design for this. The one I settled on has the cuts, that are required to go around the curved back of the trailer, on the vertical edge instead of the horizontal surface. I felt that would make it shed water better. Here is a proto-type I made to test the overall design concept and make sure I had the dimensions and curve-shape are correct.
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I was happy with the design concept, but quickly realized my dimensions were off slightly. The vertical tabs above were only 1" tall, the height of the C-channel, they need to be 1 1/2" tall the height of the plywood plus C-channel. Also, the shelf in the above proto-type is 1 1/2" wide, it only needs to be 1" wide. So here is the final design.
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The RED lines are cut-lines, the GREEN lines are fold-lines.
It requires a 4 3/4" wide strip of aluminum (I'll use 0.032 2024-T3 Allclad) that is 1" longer than the outside->outside width of the frame rails. That will allow 1/2" to be folded over the outside of the frame rails to encourage water drip off. The 1" shelf will be where the bumper-box lid hinge will be riveted on. Each rivet will be bedded in a glob of Vulcum. The vertical edge at the back of the flashing will force any water to drip off instead of flowing back under the trailer toward the plywood.
I sure hope it works. This is a job I only want to do once.
What do ya think?
BWH
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Old 11-23-2010, 04:50 PM   #47
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Dealing with the biggest leak

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The Project: 1965 Safari Double
The biggest issue is a leak where the shell meets the door along the top of the bumper that accesses the blackwater drain valve and sewer hose. This leak resulted in 8” to 10” of the plywood subfloor across the very back to be rotted away, the rest of the floor is solid no soft spots. The black-water tank is cracked and will need to be replaced. I also plan to replace all of the appliances (furnace, hot-water heater, stove and refrigerator).


BWH
How did you resolve the issue of the leaking door? It will be part of my project as well.
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Old 11-23-2010, 05:19 PM   #48
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Quote:
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How did you resolve the issue of the leaking door? It will be part of my project as well.
Unless I am mistaken, it's detailed in the post immediately preceding yours.
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Old 11-23-2010, 08:49 PM   #49
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looks great!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BWH-Utah View Post
Steve, thanks for the photo, it is always good to see that I am not way out in left field on my own.
I actually spent a bunch of time last weekend working on a design for this. The one I settled on has the cuts, that are required to go around the curved back of the trailer, on the vertical edge instead of the horizontal surface. I felt that would make it shed water better. Here is a proto-type I made to test the overall design concept and make sure I had the dimensions and curve-shape are correct.
Attachment 115468

I was happy with the design concept, but quickly realized my dimensions were off slightly. The vertical tabs above were only 1" tall, the height of the C-channel, they need to be 1 1/2" tall the height of the plywood plus C-channel. Also, the shelf in the above proto-type is 1 1/2" wide, it only needs to be 1" wide. So here is the final design.
Attachment 115469
The RED lines are cut-lines, the GREEN lines are fold-lines.
It requires a 4 3/4" wide strip of aluminum (I'll use 0.032 2024-T3 Allclad) that is 1" longer than the outside->outside width of the frame rails. That will allow 1/2" to be folded over the outside of the frame rails to encourage water drip off. The 1" shelf will be where the bumper-box lid hinge will be riveted on. Each rivet will be bedded in a glob of Vulcum. The vertical edge at the back of the flashing will force any water to drip off instead of flowing back under the trailer toward the plywood.
I sure hope it works. This is a job I only want to do once.
What do ya think?
BWH
This should work great.I would add ,my slits(kerfs) for the bend are on the bottom and yours are on top.I would seal yours well even though they will be between the skin.The way I got between the skin was by jacking up the loose shell under the back access door frame with a vet and horiz, 2x4s on my jack and having two people sit on both sides of the frame.I am hoping this works for both of us.
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Old 11-24-2010, 10:15 AM   #50
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Rear end leaks

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Dealing with the biggest leak
How did you resolve the issue of the leaking door? It will be part of my project as well.
Good question.
As Dag68 noted above a good portion of the problem is solved by redesigning the flashing to divert the water that runs down the outer skin away from the plywood (see posts #40 and #46). This combined with a better way to bolt the shell to the frame (see #37 and #45) should pretty much take care of the "rear-end-separation" water leak issue. This issue is also covered pretty extensively elsewhere on these forums.

What I discovered last weekend during a steady rain was that I had, (in addition to the flashing/rear-end-separation problem) two other pretty good leaks at the back of my trailer.

1) the worst of the two is those infernal 1965 tail lights. The plastic pieces of $#!*; I knew mine had some seemingly small cracks in them, what I was surprised at was how much water was coming in through the cracks! I will probably go after these with some fiberglass cloth and resin over the outside (to seal and strengthen the plastic) and Vulcum caulk where they are attached to the aluminum shell.

I have thought of completely removing them, covering the hole with a patch panel and then installing some surface mount tail lights like those used on the earlier and later 60's trailers. Not sure how that would look though. Any opinions on this approach?

2) I was also getting water in somewhere along the top of the rear window. The PO had done some caulking there with what appears to Parbond that has aged to the point that clearly needs to be redone. I put a piece of duct tape across the top window seam and that stopped that leak, for now. That should be a fairly easy fix, when I get to it.
BWH
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Old 11-25-2010, 01:15 AM   #51
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fabricated rear door

Your access door looks different than mine. Did you fabricate a new replacement one?
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Old 11-28-2010, 10:14 AM   #52
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Lookin good! I like the rear bumper fix, post pics.
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Old 01-08-2011, 06:01 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWH-Utah View Post
Steve, thanks for the photo, it is always good to see that I am not way out in left field on my own.
I actually spent a bunch of time last weekend working on a design for this. The one I settled on has the cuts, that are required to go around the curved back of the trailer, on the vertical edge instead of the horizontal surface. I felt that would make it shed water better. Here is a proto-type I made to test the overall design concept and make sure I had the dimensions and curve-shape are correct.
Attachment 115468

I was happy with the design concept, but quickly realized my dimensions were off slightly. The vertical tabs above were only 1" tall, the height of the C-channel, they need to be 1 1/2" tall the height of the plywood plus C-channel. Also, the shelf in the above proto-type is 1 1/2" wide, it only needs to be 1" wide. So here is the final design.
Attachment 115469
The RED lines are cut-lines, the GREEN lines are fold-lines.
It requires a 4 3/4" wide strip of aluminum (I'll use 0.032 2024-T3 Allclad) that is 1" longer than the outside->outside width of the frame rails. That will allow 1/2" to be folded over the outside of the frame rails to encourage water drip off. The 1" shelf will be where the bumper-box lid hinge will be riveted on. Each rivet will be bedded in a glob of Vulcum. The vertical edge at the back of the flashing will force any water to drip off instead of flowing back under the trailer toward the plywood.
I sure hope it works. This is a job I only want to do once.
What do ya think?
BWH
Excellent flashing. Thanks, I'm going to fab something very similar. Only suggestion might be to add a drip edge along that bottom edge... the water will have a tendency to travel back up on the underside without it
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Old 05-15-2011, 05:27 AM   #54
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Any new updates? I'm doing some quick repairs to my 65 as well.. I'll do alot more work in the fall when my time frees up. For now though, I'm just getting some of the basics working so I can use it for camping. I don't need the bathroom or kitchen working for my summer needs though.

C.
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:24 AM   #55
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Thumbs up Nice...

Taz,

thats a good looking trailer, and looks very similar to mine, what work do you have planned for the fall ?
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Old 05-17-2011, 04:55 PM   #56
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I do not think I want to do a full gut like alot of people here are doing. But for now most likely if I get myself a table saw I'll build a new kitchen seating area / futon and also a new front bed area. I just finished stripping out the front area yesterday, and now I'm thinking about painting the plywood floor for now, and putting in a temporary queen size bed platform. In the fall I'll make it more of a seating area along with being the bed. I've also noticed some sagging of the overheads that I may look at what it will take to perm fix that, versus temp fix it. I want to use it on memorial day. So other then that I need to check the wheels/bearings etc.. Alot to do! I have to work this weekend as well, so my free time is going away quickly..

C.
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:18 AM   #57
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Sounds we have similar projects, I did not gut mine either, but rather a " I will fix what is broke with parts that are readily available and as close to original as possible and make it usable...appraoch"

but what I am finding now, is that looking back, it might have been easier to gut it, and when I finish with the exterior, I might just go back and do it anyway, I will most likely have to replace the fridge, and the wife really wants a new floor, so its almost a no brainer...but as you say, its all a matter of time, and you have to work around actually wanting to use the camper....good times !!
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:42 AM   #58
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So true.. In my case I have several issues. First is time. I need it in 10 days to be at least sleep-able. Then I'll need it again in 2 more weeks, then another on the 4th of July. All are weekend events. After that I need it for 2 weeks in late August. But my work will take *all* my time in July/Aug/Sept. Literally we're talking 20 hour work days for months. After that I can do whatever I want to it. I wont need it until next year. Next in my case it's just me. I'm single. Another part of my needs are I can skip needing the kitchen and bathroom. Literally all I need is a box to sleep in. I will make an attempt at adding an AC though. I'll need to snake some wiring and a drain line to the vent though. Quick update.. 2011-05-18 Also check my thread... http://www.airforums.com/forums/f368...tml#post994577
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