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Old 06-26-2014, 01:36 PM   #1
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1971 31' Sovereign
Lake Minnetonka , Minnesota
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 42
The money pit

hey eeerrrrybody,
I had started a intro thread when i first joined, but now its time to take things to the next level with a full thread. I'm fixing up a 71 sovereign to live in when I move from MN to GA for the next year starting in August. So I have a lot to do in the next month to make the trip possible, and to make living comfortable. I have a hit list that need to happen before I leave MN, here she is.
1. Rear end separation
2. Grey tanks and waste drain
3. New Flooring
4. Window seals and Gaskets
5. Paint
6. Countertops
7. Axles (ordered, starting angle 32 Deg.)
8. Install new 45 amp converter
9. Troubleshoot refrigerator
10. Troubleshoot Central Control panel

Long term goals
1. Spit shine all 31'
2. Reface all existing veneer/laminate cabinets
3. Solar panels with Invert.
4. Pex Plumbing
5. Front window rock guards
6. Fix existing awning
7. New AC
8. Find Original Bumper


Got all the existing carpet out




Floor going in, I painted the walls Khaki Tan with Krylon fusion. I dont like it as much as i thought, I think i'm going to repaint in white.




I knew she had rear end separation when I bought it, luckily the frame is in tact with the cross members in good shape, as well as the outriggers. What i didnt relize when i bought it was that someone had removed the original bumper and welded one on so they could add another tow hitch


Stupid fake bumper



In the process of ripping out the bathroom, and dropping the belly pan.







Once I have the floor out I need some help on the configuration to add a grey tank, in front of the black tank, then plumb the two together to one drain valve out the side of the frame in the picture above, I will be cleaning up the city water supply inlet so it's pretty.
I've also installed a new gas regulator, and have the original tanks which i need to bring in to have converted to new valves.

Any input is greatly appreciated, right now this is a one man operation, and I have a pretty tight time line to get this thing in working order.
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Old 06-26-2014, 01:55 PM   #2
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Nice work.

I lived in Georgia for a while. Minnesota is better.

Leave the A/C alone if it works, fix it if it doesn't. That's all the advice I have.
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Old 06-26-2014, 02:07 PM   #3
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1971 31' Sovereign
Lake Minnetonka , Minnesota
Join Date: May 2014
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Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
Nice work.

I lived in Georgia for a while. Minnesota is better.

Leave the A/C alone if it works, fix it if it doesn't. That's all the advice I have.

AC does work, I have a feeling it's gonna take a dump on me in the brutal Georgia heat


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Old 06-26-2014, 02:46 PM   #4
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Trailer hitch was probably a major cause of your rear end problems. Jim
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Old 06-26-2014, 02:56 PM   #5
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You do sound motivated and you have purpose and goal so let's see how it goes! Remember as long as it is safe and dry everything else is cosmetic except maybe the crapper! Keep us posted and you can do it! Also lose the bumper!
Cliff
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Old 06-26-2014, 02:58 PM   #6
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1971 31' Sovereign
Lake Minnetonka , Minnesota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigzagguzzi View Post
Trailer hitch was probably a major cause of your rear end problems. Jim

I thought so at first, but the water damage in the belly pan has me thinking otherwise. The frame is good so far, and I think the PO did some reinforcement welding when they put that on. Just the black water tank mount is heavily corroded, I'll know more when I get that floor up!


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Old 06-26-2014, 03:02 PM   #7
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1971 31' Sovereign
Lake Minnetonka , Minnesota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RM66caravel View Post
You do sound motivated and you have purpose and goal so let's see how it goes! Remember as long as it is safe and dry everything else is cosmetic except maybe the crapper! Keep us posted and you can do it! Also lose the bumper!
Cliff

Oh I'm motivated! I have a empty house here that I have to sell in the mean time, so my motivation comes from trying not to go bankrupt
Bumper has gotta go, stat.


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Old 06-26-2014, 03:11 PM   #8
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Subscribed... Best of luck with your project. I love your initiative and Can Do spirit!

Poppy
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Old 06-26-2014, 03:16 PM   #9
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1971 31' Sovereign
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Subscribed... Best of luck with your project. I love your initiative and Can Do spirit!

Poppy
Thanks!
I baited the GF into doing some work, painting seemed legit, but she wants to use a paint sprayer so what is the best method and equipment for paint spraying guns, IE Air compressor and gun?
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:19 PM   #10
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Hey Bakes..trailer looks great already

You said that you will be living in the trailer. Will you be traveling with it as well?

I saw a guy with a home window air conditioner. He had it on a stand about a foot away from the trailer, with flexible duct work hooked up to an open window in the trailer. It was quieter than the built AC units.

Another idea for southern climates. Shade the trailer under one of those metal pipe and tarp shelters. A buddy of mine says it makes is trailer 10 to 20 degrees cooler

I don't think that I would want to spray paint inside such a small area. I would worry about overspray, unless you masked EVERYTHING!
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:15 PM   #11
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It does not look too bad from a rust standpoint. I think the rear end was overloaded. If you pull the inside rear skins, you will be able to see what the bolts look like on the inside and if they pulled through the c-channel. Is the hold down plate still connected to anything. Have you removed the rub rail?

Never mind, I can see the hold down plate was ripped from the back of the trailer and a chunk of skin went with it. That is an overloading injury. Take that hitch off there.

Perry
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Old 06-26-2014, 08:05 PM   #12
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Remove the bumper first then work on the separation! Shoot us some pictures of the rear section under the pan please.
Cliff
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:11 PM   #13
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I'm not listing it for sale but shout at me when you get ready for a rear bumper. I have a new one I picked up several years ago and it is still wrapped up in the shop. Also have a set of aluminum folding steps.

Regards,

Kevin


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Old 06-27-2014, 10:23 AM   #14
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1971 31' Sovereign
Lake Minnetonka , Minnesota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
It does not look too bad from a rust standpoint. I think the rear end was overloaded. If you pull the inside rear skins, you will be able to see what the bolts look like on the inside and if they pulled through the c-channel. Is the hold down plate still connected to anything. Have you removed the rub rail?

Never mind, I can see the hold down plate was ripped from the back of the trailer and a chunk of skin went with it. That is an overloading injury. Take that hitch off there.

Perry
Will do, I was planning on doing it later down the road, but if thats what caused the separation it needs to move up in the list.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RM66caravel View Post
Remove the bumper first then work on the separation! Shoot us some pictures of the rear section under the pan please.
Cliff
Sure will, I got side tracked by seals and gaskets last night and didnt make any progress on the rear bath removal, I have the belly pan pulled back to the first outrigger, for some reason I stopped there. I'll throw up some pictures of the Belly pan and how it was configured, should I be prepared for replacement of the whole pan?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandolindave View Post
You said that you will be living in the trailer. Will you be traveling with it as well?

I saw a guy with a home window air conditioner. He had it on a stand about a foot away from the trailer, with flexible duct work hooked up to an open window in the trailer. It was quieter than the built AC units.

Another idea for southern climates. Shade the trailer under one of those metal pipe and tarp shelters. A buddy of mine says it makes is trailer 10 to 20 degrees cooler

I don't think that I would want to spray paint inside such a small area. I would worry about overspray, unless you masked EVERYTHING!
I really dont want to have to go that route with the ac, my extended stay down there will most likely be at one of the local RV parks, I dont think they would allow me to put up a tent like that, that really makes sense though. I dont know if i'm going to do the spray gun thing yet, makes more sense to do rollers, but all the bathroom pieces would look much nicer if they were gunned i think. would it be worth it to paint them myself and then bring them in to have gel coated? has anyone done that before?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin245 View Post
I'm not listing it for sale but shout at me when you get ready for a rear bumper. I have a new one I picked up several years ago and it is still wrapped up in the shop. Also have a set of aluminum folding steps.

Regards,

Kevin


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Kevin to the rescue with the bumper! I'll shoot you a PM. I'm good on the steps I think, anyone know how to replace the black tough pad thats on there?
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Old 06-27-2014, 11:58 AM   #15
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The belly pan replacement all depends on the condition of the aluminum once you have dropped it and your personal preference and wallet! Not ripped put it back up using the large flange rivets from VTS.
Cliff
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Old 06-27-2014, 12:18 PM   #16
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Hidden Window Unit - ECONOMY FIX!

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...t-41052-2.html

I thought Rideair's idea was a great way of preserving the roof line appearance on a vintage unit. For those in the baking southern weather - it's a great second Air conditioner - Looks like an hour or two work to fit it initially and 3 minute setup every time you put it in the window. Best thing? The "awning" pretty much hides it from view.

Next best thing - cheaper than a roof unit.
Third best thing - you can use it somewhere else when you're not in the Airstream.

Paula
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Old 06-27-2014, 07:20 PM   #17
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1971 31' Sovereign
Lake Minnetonka , Minnesota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RM66caravel View Post
The belly pan replacement all depends on the condition of the aluminum once you have dropped it and your personal preference and wallet! Not ripped put it back up using the large flange rivets from VTS.
Cliff

After further review I'm only going to replace the very rear section of aluminum, the rest of the belly pan is in good shape

Quote:
Originally Posted by Foiled Again View Post
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...t-41052-2.html



I thought Rideair's idea was a great way of preserving the roof line appearance on a vintage unit. For those in the baking southern weather - it's a great second Air conditioner - Looks like an hour or two work to fit it initially and 3 minute setup every time you put it in the window. Best thing? The "awning" pretty much hides it from view.



Next best thing - cheaper than a roof unit.

Third best thing - you can use it somewhere else when you're not in the Airstream.



Paula

That is pretty slick, might need that down the road


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Old 06-28-2014, 08:06 PM   #18
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Start in the bathroom. It will take most of your month and it will be sooo much less convenient to do it when you're living in it.

We did it and it took way longer than anticipated.
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Old 07-01-2014, 11:10 AM   #19
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1971 31' Sovereign
Lake Minnetonka , Minnesota
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Originally Posted by NJtoNC View Post
Start in the bathroom. It will take most of your month and it will be sooo much less convenient to do it when you're living in it.

We did it and it took way longer than anticipated.

Exactly what i'm doing, I won't have the means of doing it when i'm down south. So I need to pick your guys brains a little here so i'm not just chopping everything out and scratching my head later. Is this the correct C channel for my replacement, because the current one is toast correct?
Bow Lower Window-Narrow Body Trailer 104343 [104343] - $114.95 : Out-of-Doors Mart!, More Airstream Parts on-line than anyone!

Picture for reference.


More questions, where is the best place to cut my PVC tubing to make reinstall easier when i put her back together (Exhibit 1)
I would like to change my valve location while i have the floor out (exhibit 2) I have the original black tank, can anyone tell me what fittings TOP used in his application here, and how i would reroute the drain from (exhibit 1)
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...tml#post974154



I'm unsure if i'm going to add a gray tank at this point, I dont think its in the budget and timeframe.

One more question, Im about to pull the trigger on the new water heater. I pulled out the original (dont remember the name just that its 9.9) the outside drain plug was heavily corroded so I would imagine the inner tank is in rough shape. i'm thinking about the LP/ 110, is this the exact replacement? Its around the price that i'm willing to pay. I'd probably do the manual light because i cant justify $250 for a button that lights it.
10 Gallon Atwood Water Heaters
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Old 07-01-2014, 03:49 PM   #20
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If the c channel in the picture is what you are talking about replacing then repair it with a piece of aluminum in the bottom of the channel because it actually looks really good so to speak! Once you have removed the buck rivets for that section it will be easy to remove and repair as for the valve call top and ask or go to 62overlander and ask frank you can go to his blog site and get his phone number.
Cliff


Yes I said that! Or did I?
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