Plumbing diagram for '73 Sovereign

[Atraveler]

took out all plumbing need diagram to replace. it was a major mess and fell apart with very little assistance. a lot of sweat tears and swearing but re-do is so worth it

[CanoeStream]

Atraveler? You did take digi-pics as you disassembled, didn't you?

You removed copper. You want to put it back in copper? PEX?

Any changes that you want to implement? Floorplan staying the same?

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Atraveler

took out all plumbing need diagram to replace. it was a major mess and fell apart with very little assistance. a lot of sweat tears and swearing but re-do is so worth it

Is it a rear bath or center bath? The plumbing is fairly straightforward, but there are obvious differences between the two.

[Atraveler]

no the traler sat for 15 years in guys yard so it didnt need much help cming apart most was just hanging rear bath toilet sink and tub seem fine someone ripped out shower stuff hot water heater crumbled pretty much

[Atraveler]

pex no more copper no majer changes trying to keep as much as we can the same except no carpet. wood floors going in
curtains were ruined by mice so i made new ones

[Jim & Susan]

AT, the shop manual for your camper is available from Airstream and Secretarial Services (a company authorized to reproduce them). Do a search here on the forms for their phone number. Runs somewhere around $80 plus shipping.

I bought one when I started restoring mine. It was nice to have it around to see how the factory did things half a lifetime ago. To add to what Terry and Bob said, tho, the plumbing really is pretty easy to figure out, so you may not need to spend the money on the manual. There are lots of posts here that show how others replumbed theirs.

Jim

[TG Twinkie]

Spend the money on parts. Get your answers here. You can print them and assemble your own manual.
I am sure you will get many ideas on whatever you ask and you can make your own decision based on the knowledge gained here.
There are many ways to improve the old system.
For example: And these are my ideas on improvements which I'm sure there will be some critique.
When I removed the old copper from our '74 Argosy 26'. I made the decision not to reinstall the drain valves. I felt they served no practical purpose. Unless they drain every bit of water from the system, which they don't. Why install 2 valves and put holes through the skin for something that doesn't work. The valves and fittings to install drains is an unnecessary expense and can cause problems in the future when they don't function as they should. In other words start to leak. Or you forget they are open and you are searching for the reason there is water running out the bottom of the trailer. No valves no memory required.
There is no pressure regulator in the internal plumbing system for the city water side, therefor the plumbing system does not have to be dismantled to replace a bad regulator. Just replace the one on the end of the hose.
There are 5 valves in my system. One for City water; One for house water; and the three required for the water heater for the built in bypass for winterizing. All Valves are in one location for easy access. All valves and their functions on a document posted in the compartment where the Valves are located. There are no fittings in hidden places. All are visible in order to make checking for leaks.
The pump is located under the dinette seat. Easy access to it as well as the drain valve for the fresh water tank. Also easy access for winterizing the system.
Nothing under some shelf in the back corner of a closet or some place where you have to be double jointed to gain access.
My advice is to keep the system as simple as possible with relatively easy access to the components.
Hope this helps.

[Atraveler]

thank you for all you help really appreciate it

[Lumatic]

Send me a fax number and I will fax the diagram