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Old 07-31-2014, 10:11 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
The worst hinderance of workflow of first timers is stopping because of the fear of making a mistake....

Well mistakes are going to happen, but short of a person getting hurt all mistakes on a project like this can be fixed .

Keep moving forward. When a mistake is made fix it and try not to do it again.

Sometimes a mistake just means a change of plans or a new direction ....


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J Morgan. Thanks for the encouragement. I have been terribly afraid of making a mistake. I'm going to just keep plowing ahead.


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Old 07-31-2014, 10:16 PM   #62
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J Morgan. Thanks for the encouragement. I have been terribly afraid of making a mistake. I'm going to just keep plowing ahead.


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Plow on!
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:20 PM   #63
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Chris. Just reread your rivet descriptions. Thanks. It's starting to make sense bit by bit. Got one side of my lower sides off today. Huge feeling of accomplishment. Goal for the next three days is to get entire shell unattached from the frame.


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Old 08-01-2014, 11:56 AM   #64
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Did you ever get an answer to your shell removal question and the c-channel?

While we did not do a shell off, from what I've read and seen on other posts, you would drill out all the rivets that hold the shell to the c-channel, leaving the plywood floor connected to both the frame and c-channel. Then lift the shell. You can then use the plywood and where the c-channel attaches to it and the frame as templates and guides for cutting new plywood and attaching it to the frame again. Take lots of pictures and get lots of measurements so you can put it all back together.

To put it back together, attach the plywood to the frame, then bolt the c-channel to the plywood and outriggers, and then drop the shell back in place. The holes in the side c-channels will line up with the holes in the outriggers, so it will go back together without being out of alignment. The end (curved) c-channels are a big more difficult to get in alignment, especially if you don't have the old plywood to use as a template because it's gone or rotted away, but once you get the shell partly attached to the side channels, the ends will line up as well.

Do you have a good supply of Cleco's? They will hold the shell in place on the c-channel while you tweak it into position. And you can use them to hold the shell in place on the c-channel until you're ready to re-install the belly pan.

Be sure to pay attention to the notch in the plywood at the door frame. If you forget that notch, the door frame will never go back into place. Voice of experience speaking here... But, I did get a new tool out of that mistake.

Chris
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Old 08-02-2014, 08:35 AM   #65
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Chris.
Never have worked with Clecos before. What size and type and qty would you suggest?

Any idea how much the shell only weighs approx.? I want to make sure my roof joists can handle it.

I'm pretty sure I've got all the channel free from the shell. I could remove the shell next week once I find some hoists.
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Old 08-02-2014, 08:46 AM   #66
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Axle

Quote:
Originally Posted by aquinob View Post
I've never dealt with Colin, but haven't heard a negative comment about him, hence my recommendation.
I bought a new axle for our '66 Safari from Colin Hyde back in May. Smooth transaction from start to finish, including much coaching to help me understand the installation process. He even helped expedite the shipping so I could make a scheduled camping trip with the grandkids.

The new axle fit as the old one had, with the exception of drilling out a few new bolt holes.
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Old 08-02-2014, 09:34 AM   #67
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Check this web page out for clecos and the 3 sizes you'll need. Spring Clecos

You can find them on other websites as well. We bought 1 box of each, which seemed to work ok for how we did things. There were a couple of time I wished I'd had more of each size though, so if I had to to do it again, I'd buy 2 boxes of each. If you want to firmly re-attach the shell to the c-channel with clecos, I'd buy 3 or 4 boxes of the 5/32" size. Or maybe even more. Typically, I used one cleco every second or third rivet hole, but if I were leaving the shell attached just by clecos for an extended period of time, I think I'd put a cleco in every hole that attaches the shell to the c-channel. At least every other hole, instead of every 3rd hole.

Make sure you buy at least one set of cleco pliers.

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Old 08-03-2014, 09:29 AM   #68
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Chris:
I think I've got the shell free for the lift. I'm a bit concerned about the rear though. I can't fully tell if I'm clear. I'm thinking that I might just remove the bolts that hold the rear c clamp together so it comes up with the lift too. Not sure if these pictures show well enough to see. Attachment 218124Attachment 218125Attachment 218126

Any way there seems to be a metal brace along the rear by where the cargo door is. I just can't tell if the shell is attached there or not.

Also do I have to remove door frame prior to lift. It doesn't look attached anywhere. But seems like it would/should be.

PS. Nice work on the MN emblem and blue light.


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Old 08-03-2014, 09:53 AM   #69
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Tim,

Your pictures didn't come through.

Yes, there is a brace of angle aluminum that goes underneath the rear cargo door. It's attached to the floor under the rear c-channel, and then riveted to the shell under the cargo door. If you drill out the rivets under the cargo door, you will release the shell from the rear c-channel and the brace.

The door frame is bolted to the floor and two outriggers trough the bottom of the frame (aka, the threshold). You'll need to remove those two bolts to free the door frame from the floor. After removing the bolts, the bottom of the door frame should slide outward, clearing the floor plywood so you can lift the shell. No need to remove the door frame from the shell - in fact, I would recommend that you NOT remove the door frame. It will keep that side of the shell in alignment while you make the lift.

Once you free the door frame and slide it out beyond the edge of the plywood, you'll see the notch in the plywood I mentioned before.

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Old 08-03-2014, 09:54 AM   #70
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I've been searching but can't seem to find an approx weight of a 31' AS shell only. Anyone have a good notion? Safe to say under 1000 lbs?


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Old 08-03-2014, 10:00 AM   #71
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Hopefully they came through this time. But your explanation helped. I think I'm all free from the frame. Will try to complete lift this week.


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Old 08-04-2014, 08:05 PM   #72
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Awesome work keep it up!


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Old 08-05-2014, 05:43 AM   #73
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Shell only 750 to 850 pounds without ac, or any of the interior skins!
Cliff


Yes I said that! Or did I?
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Old 08-05-2014, 06:45 AM   #74
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Thanks Cliff. I'm off to harbor freight today to buy hoists and some chains.


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Old 08-05-2014, 07:56 PM   #75
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Ahhh it's like déjà vu! I think you are catching up to me


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Old 08-06-2014, 10:45 AM   #76
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Lift Off!

Completed a monumental step today. Lift off. After getting the A/C off the top and rigging with hoists to roof joists I was able to get the shell off.

No bracing thanks to suggestions by various members. I just used some 4 x 6 lumber through the fore and aft vent holes. There were some hidden rivets here and there that I had to pop but it came free pretty easily.

The fore and aft c-channel came up with the lift; the side channel stayed attached to the trailer.

Next step frame repairs and subfloor replacement. Think I will go with standard plywood or marine grade if not too expensive.
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:02 AM   #77
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Nice!

Go with at least exterior grade plywood. We used BCX. Paint each sheet before you install it with a couple of coats of good exterior primer, and seal the edges with epoxy or multiple coats of the primer. We used primer, but many folks use epoxy to seal the edges. Do not paint the plywood sheets where the gussets are going to be glued under the seams to reinforce them, but paint the underside of the gussets before you install them. Touch up any missed areas around the gussets after the floor is installed.

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Old 08-06-2014, 01:31 PM   #78
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Mine lifted crooked like yours due to the awning, hopefully it won't complicate dropping it back on too much.


Great job! You have made a ton of progress. Now strip it down to the frame and let's see what you have to work with. Hoping for the best for ya!


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Old 08-06-2014, 11:41 PM   #79
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Can't do anything on Paulie for a couple of weeks due to family wedding and getting kids off to school. (bittersweet)

I feel like I already screwed up by not making a luan template of the rear subfloor before taking off the shell.

So before I start ripping off the subfloor I am going to measure carefully the rest of the floor.

Any other tips I should remember to do?

Also thanks for your quick replies. I find myself energized by the support and I am addicted to AS Forums.....


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Old 08-07-2014, 07:40 AM   #80
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Wedding huh? Those are always fun! Congrats!

You said the end c-channels are still attached to the shell, right? Have a helper or two hold the luan up underneath the shell & c-channel and use that to draw the curve for the end of the plywood. Then use the plywood floor to size the laun template front to back. If it's like ours, the rear piece of plywood was a full 4 feet sheet. I think the front piece was less than 4 feet, but I don't remember by how much. Every other sheet will be the full 4 feet width. None of them are 8 ft wide though. If memory serves, we cut just about 4 inches off each sheet. Those 4 inch cutoffs become the gussets under the seams.

I've mentioned this before, but don't forget the notch for the door frame.

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