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11-06-2011, 08:56 PM
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#301
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2 Rivet Member
1968 26' Overlander
West Richland
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 61
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Got it!! Thanks for the clarification - drain valve it is.
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11-19-2011, 03:22 PM
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#302
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,986
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The single biggest expenditure arrived on Thursday. We decided to order them now while Inland had them on sale. Axels, balancers, shocks, and 3 new rims (we bought 2 new rims 3 years ago when we picked her up). The axels surprised us by arriving well before Andy said they would even ship. Just in time too - it's snowing today. They are safely under a tarp for the winter.
Chris
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11-19-2011, 05:37 PM
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#303
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Rivet Master
1997 34' Limited
1970 27' Overlander
South of Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,709
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Wow
IWOWING just had a chance to catch up on your thread. Your work continually impresses me with both the quality and attention to detail. Little Girl is going to be fantastic when you finish her. Just incredible! Thank you for creating the thread.
__________________
Craig and Carol
1997 34' Excella 1000
1970 27' Overlander, International
2009 Ford F150 5.4L
ProPride hitch with 1400# bars
AIR 41028
TAC GA-8
WBCCI 10199
Past President Southeastern Camping Unit (12)
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02-05-2012, 03:52 PM
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#304
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,986
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Been a good weekend so far. For most of the winter, we have not been able to work on Little Girl, but we have been collecting parts. Things we've purchased over the winter include a range, stereo, 4000 lb electric jack, range hood, a solar powered fridge vent fan, and a full sized mattress. Pretty much we've been watching for things we need to go on sale, and then buying them. Everything is stored inside the front of the trailer for now (except for the mattress), while we wait for spring to arrive. The mattressis on order from the M attress Factory, and will be ready for pickup on Thursday. I think we're going to store it inside our son's Jayco for the rest of the winter since Little Girl is running out of storage room.
The reason it's been a good weekend is that I've been able to work on her again. I've spent the weekend building the medicine cabinet that will go above the sink in the bathroom. Right now, the final assembly is glued together and sitting in clamps in my workshop. I'll post pictures later today or tomorrow. This cabinet is hopefully the hardest one I need to build. Because even though it's fairly small, it's in a area that has compound curves, so the top and bottom are different, and the right and left sides are different. All different curves I mean. Plus, the middle shelf has a curve on the back of it too. Been fun though, even though I've spent a fair amount of time going back and forth between my workshop and the trailer. Thank goodness we have the furnace hooked. I've kept it relativity warm inside her today (30 degrees outside and 65 inside).
Chris
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02-06-2012, 10:23 AM
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#305
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4 Rivet Member
1974 31' Sovereign
Sunset Beach
, North Carolina
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 402
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Carpentry info
Chris,
I was reviewing your posts, and did not see any detail regarding your carpentry work for the vanity. How did you join the face components, pocket screws, wafers, etc? Are you building the door, or have you sourced it somewhere?
I think you made some nice choices for the wood types. It looks great.
Thanks
Mike
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02-06-2012, 11:15 AM
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#306
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,986
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Hi Mike,
Thanks! We like the look of the red alder too, and I really love how light it is (weight-wise) and easy to work with.
Maybe a bigger picture will help. I didn't re-size this one, so hopefully you can see more details. The face frame is put together using pocket screws. The rounded corner was made by cutting two lengths of red alder on a 45 degree angle, and then gluing them together using small biscuits. The size I use for this is an R3, which is a biscuit size intended for picture frames. I think they've kinda fallen out of favor, as they are getting harder to find. Anyway, once the corner has cured, I rout the corner using a 1/2" radius bit. The plywood side is glued into a dado as well as glued to the basswood frame on the side, which has been pocket screwed to the alder. I use pin nails (headless nails) to hold the plywood to the frame while the glue sets.
I will make the doors myself. The jury is still out on the exact style of door. I think I need to make an overlay door for the vanity because of the plumbing, which means the medicine cabinet will be an overlay door to match it. The galley may be flush doors. All will probably be a fairly simple shaker style, with a plywood panel instead of a raised panel to help save on weight.
Chris
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02-06-2012, 11:41 AM
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#307
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,986
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You didn't ask, but I thought maybe you or some other folks would like some more details on the counter top.
It's 3/4" BCX plywood (actually left over from the sub-floor). I cut the plywood to shape, and then used low VOC contact cement to glue the laminate on. After that set up for a couple of hours, I trimmed it using a flush-cutting router bit. I then cut out for the sink and faucet. A final step was to bend and install the metal trim around the edge. I wasn't 100% sure I could coax the trim into bending around the corner as it's a 2" radius if memory serves. But, with some careful bending, I was able to get it to go around the curve mostly ok. It did buckle just a bit on the top, but I was able to flatten that back out with a wooden mallet. That was followed by some light sanding, and final buff with 00 steel wool to restore the satin finish. Future rounded counter top corners will be a larger radius.
The trim is the 13/16" satin counter top trim from Vintage Trailer Supply.
Chris
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02-06-2012, 07:24 PM
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#308
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,986
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Here's the medicine cabinet, mostly completed.
I'm holding it in place over the bathroom sink to show you where it will be mounted and to give you an idea of how big it is. It's 22" wide, 15" tall, and about 6" deep at the widest point of the bottom. One of the main reasons for this cabinet is so I can hang a mirror over the sink. Because I want to hang a mirror on this cabinet, it will end up with a single door. Not sure how I want to hinge the door yet - on the left, the right, or at the top.
This is a top down look from the back. I have it sitting on the floor for this picture. Took this to show the curves of the shelves. Hard to see, but the left side has a different curve than the right side. While not difficult to build, it was a tad time consuming because of the compound curves.
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02-26-2012, 04:49 PM
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#309
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,986
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One of the problems I was having was cramming all the wires and an outlet into the small airstream style outlet boxes. The boxes I bought and used in the bathroom to add two new outlets are significantly smaller than the ones that were originally used in the airstream.
As you might be able to tell from this picture, the wires pretty much fill up the box, leaving little room for the outlet. These are 12/2 wires (20 amp). Maybe if I had used 14/2 instead, I would be able to fold them into the outlet box better, but I still think it would be a tight squeeze. So, as an experiment, I bought a surface mount box that's normally used to transition between an inside-the-wall-outlet to surface mount wire runs, and used just the outside cover to expand the outlet box size. Here's the results.
This works quite well! It provides plenty of extra room for the wires and the outlet, and I'll use it for the other bathroom outlet as well. In the spring, we'll paint the white box blue to match the wall and outlet cover.
I also finished building the medicine cabinet this afternoon. I added a top piece and a metal bar (aluminum of course) to hold things in the top shelf while traveling.
I installed it with 2 screws just to get a couple of pictures of it hanging on the wall. It’s back off and in my workshop to be varnished.
I also spent quite of bit of time today pondering the curves at the rear of the trailer and how the heck I’m going to build compound-curved cabinets around the back wall to hide the plumbing. Played with cardboard and ¼” plywood mock-ups, and came up with what I think will be a workable solution. Time will tell…
Chris
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02-26-2012, 09:19 PM
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#310
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minno
[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]One of the problems I was having was cramming all the wires and an outlet into the small airstream style outlet boxes...
Chris
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I saw the same issue on my '63...I ended up with 'splice boxes' containing 3-4 connections and outlet boxes with no more than 2 wires.
Fun, huh?
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04-02-2012, 11:08 AM
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#311
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,986
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With spring pretty much here, we're turning our attention to outside things, including outside stuff on the trailer.
Yesterday, we installed the bathroom sink the rest of the way. Siliconed the counter-top to the vanity, and hooked up the plumbing.
Installed the tub spout.
Hooked up the sensors on the black water tank.
We tested the drain on the bathtub and bathroom sink. Both drain just ducky into the rear gray water tank. Filled up the tank over half full we think, and no leaks at all.
We ran the sensor wire harness from the black tank at the rear of the trailer, forward past the gray tanks, and drilled a hole in the floor inside the kitchen cabinet area for to get the senor wire harness up to the monitor panel. Also ran a sensor wire for the fresh water tank. Need to connect the tank sensors to the wire harness, and pull the wire harness up through floor yet. But that's a good after work project.
We also ran the battery wire under the floor to connect the converter to the batteries. They will be installed inside the front of the trailer, centered under the front window. I'll build a table over the top of them which will end up in between the pair of recliners we'll be buying.
Last thing we did last night after it started getting dark was play with lights in the bathroom. We decided that a single overhead light fixture was not enough light, so we're going to install two of them. One by the sink and one in the opposite corner to give light for the shower/tub area. Plus at least one light for the mirror, which is still to be installed in an undecided location - either over the sink or directly behind the sink on the wall.
Chris
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04-08-2012, 07:24 PM
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#312
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,986
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04-09-2012, 04:33 PM
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#313
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3 Rivet Member
1984 31' Excella
1976 Argosy 24
Olsburg
, Kansas
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 128
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Well, I do remember reading this sometime ago. I am extremely impressed with your work. I look forward to seeing the completed project and more of your posts as you go forward.
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04-09-2012, 07:53 PM
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#314
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4 Rivet Member
1974 31' Sovereign
Sunset Beach
, North Carolina
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 402
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Chris, What is that ribbed, flexible tube that is coming out of the floor, under the fridge platform?
mike
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04-09-2012, 08:19 PM
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#315
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,986
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Hey Mike - that's the fresh water fill hose. The small tube is the vent for the fresh water tank. Both are disconnected from the fill inlet right now. We'll reconnect them once the fridge frame is bolted to the floor.
Chris
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04-14-2012, 05:25 PM
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#316
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,986
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Belly Pan!!!
Filled both gray tanks and the black tank today. No leaks, and the tank monitor works! It may never work again, but hey - nice to know it worked at least once! And the home made tanks work too. We did discover that the tub leaks around the drain. Apparently not enough plumbers' putty. Will address that another weekend.
The best part is, we were able to start installing the belly pan today! We cut and installed the front section between the fresh water tank and front of the trailer. Then we cut and installed the section behind the fresh water tank and over the axles to the forward gray water tank support. Drilled holes and installed grommets for the brake wires too.
The two pictures below show the front belly pan taken from under the a-frame, and then the belly pan over the axles. It feels really nice to get to this point!
Supposed to rain this evening and tomorrow, so we'll probably turn our attention to inside things (like the bed frame).
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04-14-2012, 07:20 PM
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#317
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2 Rivet Member
Commercial Member
1970 31' Sovereign
1978 31' Sovereign
1978 31' Sovereign
pinkenba
, QLD
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 32
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Hi Chris,
fantastic blog ..... love it ....
Quick questions, what material are the power inlet and water inlets? Where you get them from? We're in Aussie, The power inlet won't work here, but the water will ... just curious.
Thanks.
Erik
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04-14-2012, 07:52 PM
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#318
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,986
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Hi Erik,
the electric inlet is Marinco. I believe we bought it at camping world, but I'd have to check. The water inlet is Perko. Bought it on ebay, but many marine places carry Perko fittings. It's a through-the-deck angled water/fuel inlet with a vent. It came with the water emblem we used, plus gas and diesel emblems.
Thanks for the kind words! Nice to hear from all the folks that read our thread.
Chris
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04-15-2012, 12:01 AM
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#319
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2 Rivet Member
Commercial Member
1970 31' Sovereign
1978 31' Sovereign
1978 31' Sovereign
pinkenba
, QLD
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 32
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Chris, The Perco fittings are stainless are they? If they are, doesn't it affect the aluminium? Are they screwed in, or rivetted?
Thanks.
Erik
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04-15-2012, 08:26 AM
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#320
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,986
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Hi Erik,
The part of the Perko fitting that contacts the trailer is plastic, and the cap is chrome plated. It is screwed in place.
Kay
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