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Old 07-05-2011, 07:21 PM   #41
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Your water tank looks like ours did. That nice lovely green color! We attempted to clean ours and denture cleaning tablets were quite promising in my last experiment, so you could try it if you want (go with about 3 boxes of denture tabs to start). We ended up buying a new tank from Inland RV - just couldn't quite get around the gunk build up we could see inside. We drink our water so we do want a clean tank! The tank doesn't ever completely drain because of where the drain is at - in the side not the bottom of the tank. There's about a quarter inch or so of water that never drains. We plan on redoing the drain in our new tank so it drains out the bottom. Good luck wtih it!

Kay
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Old 07-06-2011, 06:01 AM   #42
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Tanks a lot

Kay, Did you buy the exact replacement, or some other configuration? If I could find a reasonably priced tank, that would fit in the space, I would probably jump on it, without a second thought. Since I am in the frame restoration/design phase, adding a gray tank would be a bonus, and the right time to attempt it. The location of the black tank also bothered me.

Decisions, decisions...
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:12 AM   #43
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Great looking work...I also ended up needing 1/2" rivets on the same day as you...VTS and 2 day shipping...hoping they arrive before Friday!
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Old 07-06-2011, 05:02 PM   #44
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We did buy an exact replacement, and they are NOT cheap! On the other hand, it's not green... Chris is building the grey and black water tanks we're adding out of ABS plastic. Much cheaper option than having them specialty built or buying something we don't like. We hadn't found anything pre-made that doesn't hang below the belly pan and has the capacity we want. Check our Little Girl Refurb thread for some details. Chris didn't make any frame changes, but is putting the grey tanks ganged together behind the fresh tank one above and one behind the rear axle. Black is staying in back. Black tank needs to be below the toilet, as in directly below, so if you move your tank then you're moving your toilet too. We did a shell on floor replacement, so you're at an advantage if you can get your new tanks in place before the floor and shell go back on. We're kind of at a stand still right now - family obligations, but hope to be forging ahead again soon.

Kay
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Old 07-07-2011, 05:57 AM   #45
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Kay, I have been watching that activity on a couple posts. I was waiting to see if leaks occurred after the trailers were moved/used. As you know, things in a moving trailer sometimes do unexpected things. I hope it works out for you, as we need a cheaper alternative to new tanks.
I would love to put a gray tank (currently none) directly behind the axles, and the black, right after the next cross-member. I have seen newer units like that, and really liked it . Since I am adding new axles, with the extended lift bracket, I could add an inch or so underneath for the tanks, but the 4" drain may require belly wrap changes.
I will have time to mull it over, my next step is new frame metal..a few cross-members, and a bunch of outriggers. I probably will need to decide before the POR15 goes on.
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Old 07-10-2011, 07:11 PM   #46
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Need welding advice

I have removed everything from the frame. I planned on just replacing a few cross-members and outriggers, but have run into an issue (imagine that!).
The picture with the arrow shows the spot on the main-rail that has the bottom part of the channel rusted through, as noted in the second picture. Since I have not ground this down yet, I am not sure how far the channel is compromised, but am guessing 3-4 inches in both directions. Please note that the hitch frame member is attached at that spot. I would think a great deal of load is carried at that point on the frame.
What to do, what to do...
Should this be addressed by a pro, or can me and my flux-core 115v welder handle this?
I was thinking of removing the outrigger, apply a 3 or 4 foot L channel to the outside. I would bore holes on the face of the L channel, and spot weld in those holes, as well as weld along the top and bottom.
Advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:16 AM   #47
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EEEk... Mine was the same way, the A frame on mine was thicker walled tube than the frame itself and that joint is super critical.. Any chance you can sand blast it - and then see what is left... then re-evaluate... You need to be looking at fresh metal to decide..

The frame is light enough for a 115v welder but the A frame connection will need better penetration.
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:09 AM   #48
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Dark, Thanks!

Have you started your frame yet? I don't see anything on your '72 thread. I am toying with pulling my frame over to a frame shop nearby, and have them sandblast and fix the rot. This would certainly speed up the process, gaurantee a safer result, and make the POR15 step that much easier....it all depends on the $$.

Mike
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:17 AM   #49
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I'm still sitting here waiting on the steel truck.... But soon!

That sounds like a good plan!
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:21 AM   #50
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Mike sorry for the delay but I got busy last night. I can't offer you much advice about welding. All that I know on that subject is that I was lucky to have a welder on site that did mine for "mate's rates". Mine was so badly damaged on the main frame rails that it was easier to make a whole new frame rather than trying to patch up the old one. It also gave me the chance to use larger guage steel and box it in at critical stress points.
I would think about replacing the frame rail in that section. You can't be sure how strong the steel is behind the A frame and I wouldn't want it to crack or bend in that location.
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:41 AM   #51
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Hey Bauxter,
Nice work you have going on there. Too bad you didn't make it to Albuquerque. It would have been nice to meet you. You would have enjoyed the rally for sure.
I recommend having an entirely new frame made as Wasaga Chris and others have done if you can find someone to fabricate it and afford the price they will charge. Your frame appears to be repairable from the pictures you have posted. A good sand blasting to bare metal will give you a better idea how much old rusted metal will need to be cut away and replaced with fresh steel. Keep it up! You are doing great work!
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Old 07-11-2011, 08:02 AM   #52
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The "C" Chanel 5" tall in a 6.7lb per foot weight makes a really nice frame and it is nice and strong without being overkill. Some will say that is too stiff for an AS. But not me
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Old 07-11-2011, 08:55 AM   #53
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Not a jab or attempt to hijack

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkspeed View Post
Having started doing the drawings for a new frame using the existing frame for a point of reference, and including the aluminum monocoque for strength.... Errrr it looks like the original frame was about 20% under engineered.

Is this correct?
Darkspeed,
Will this C 5x6.7 make up the 20% deficiency? I have been wondering about your post on this elsewhere for some time now. I'm just trying to understand how you came up with the 20%. When I made repairs on Abby, I was concerned about having enough additional support, but not adding too much useless weight.
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Old 07-11-2011, 09:58 AM   #54
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C5 @6.7 using the existing frame design is ( in my opinion ) a good choice for a replacement material and should be well within the required structure if welded correctly. The factory frame material ( inclusive of monocoque design ) was not adequate for the span in the design
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:07 AM   #55
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1/16 for the frame and 1/8 for the a frame on a 27' deck 3' A frame is not only under designed ( based on factory design ) it allows no factor for corrosion in a frame that was designed ( by the addition of the pink devil sponge ) to rust.
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:11 AM   #56
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Weigh your existing frame. ????lb

Measure the length in feet of the frame rails and cross members and multiply by 6.7lb

The difference is how much you will be adding to your trailers weight by building a new frame with C5 @6.7lb
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Old 07-11-2011, 01:35 PM   #57
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The steel channel 5 @6.7 looks to be 3/16. The info, below is from Metals Depot. I measured my main frame rail and was a little less than 1/8. I am wondering if the steel would have the same load capacity, if the thickness were the same? Could be softer? I am certainly no metal master, its just an observation.

C2567
A-36 Steel Channel5 X 1-3/4 X 3/16 (6.7#)
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Old 07-11-2011, 01:57 PM   #58
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That size profile is either A36 or A500 both are good for a frame. The factory frame was most likely A36

The C5 @6.7 is 3/16 in the web and even thicker in the corners
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Old 07-12-2011, 12:14 PM   #59
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By the way don't use metals depot as a price reference , the specialize in cut to order small items. A metal yard will charge around $0.60 per pound for new steel shapes and $0.30 per pound for rusty or used ( leftover ) shapes. So C5 @6.7lb would be in the $4 per foot range
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Old 07-17-2011, 09:58 PM   #60
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cross-members

Dark, do you see any issue with using the same dimensions as yours for the crossmenbers, but using 1/8 L instead of 3/16 L?
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