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GPurcell · 10-08-2020, 06:57 AM

My girlfriend's father was able to score a few more floor screws for me from his work.

I couldn't get them shipped fast enough direct so thank the Lord he was able to get them

Krek · 10-08-2020, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GPurcell

I can't wait! Too bad I have to get all new interior skins.

Us too. Looking forward to watching you blaze that trail so we can follow, lol.

GPurcell · 10-10-2020, 02:18 PM

Today has been relatively productive. The shell saw sun for the first time in over a year

The rear of this shell is a total basket case. Actually - both end caps are basket cases. Not too sure how to properly fix all the holes.

There's no way these patches didn't leak. Which is probably why the original floor was so bad in the rear. I believe this trailer met a tree at one point.

Anyways - started pulling patches off

That big patch was used to just cover a dent... no tears in the aluminum but now there are all the extra holes from attaching it. You can see by all the dirt that the patch was also poorly done.

While I was up there I removed the original plumbing vent.

With how mine will be plumbed, I need to move it to a different location. But nice to know I can reuse the original one.

Honestly getting overwhelmed by how much body work this thing needs. Taking a step back for the rest of the day. On the flip side, seeing this from the porch was AWESOME.

kidjedi · 10-10-2020, 03:31 PM

That roof spot is a tough call. If you're not going to replace the whole panel (which would be a LOT of work and a LOT of materials), I would consider doing what the PO did, but doing it right. Use a slightly larger patch than the previous one, but use fewer rivets to attach it. Be sure to seal up the previous rivet holes with TremPro before attaching the patch, and use butyl tape around the perimeter of the new patch when attaching. Also, slightly round the corners of your patch.

Or... put in a rear vista vue!

kidjedi · 10-10-2020, 03:34 PM

I'm assuming the original aluminum is stretched beyond recovery, otherwise you could roll out the dents that were under the patch and use a smaller patch (a strip) over all those rivet holes.

GPurcell · 10-10-2020, 04:05 PM

I reaalllyyy don't want to replace the whole panel.

This is where I have a very base knowledge on what to do. For a dent like that, if the best thing is to have a patch then that's what I'll do.

I'm not looking for a show-winner, I just want something that doesn't leak

Iansk · 10-11-2020, 07:32 AM

I think if you put more thought into a big patch then the PO did you’d be fine. Namely:
- Make the patch butt up against the roof panel
- mimic the spacing used everywhere else on the exterior
- and for the love of Wally, use buck rivets

If you think ahead, have you thought about doing a BusKote type of roof paint? It makes a huge difference in the heat transfer from the roof and also seals up the roof real nice.

Remove all pop rivets, don’t replace with anything but bucked rivets. If you aren’t confident about bucking rivets, pick up a simple kit from VTS and I’ll give you a lesson over FaceTime or something. It’s really easy once you get the hang of it. Plus, you’ll need to do it in other areas and now is the time to do it. Without the skins in. Speaking of which, just holler when you want to borrow mine...

Ian

Iansk · 10-11-2020, 07:35 AM

PS - those screws in your front hold down plate aren’t going to cut it. You should absolutely buck that area. There is a lot of stress there, hence all the rivets.

Ian

GPurcell · 10-11-2020, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iansk

PS - those screws in your front hold down plate aren’t going to cut it. You should absolutely buck that area. There is a lot of stress there, hence all the rivets.

Ian

Thanks for all the info! Those screws are only temporary. Needed to hold the alignment in place.

GPurcell · 10-11-2020, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iansk

I think if you put more thought into a big patch then the PO did you’d be fine. Namely:
- Make the patch butt up against the roof panel
- mimic the spacing used everywhere else on the exterior
- and for the love of Wally, use buck rivets

If you think ahead, have you thought about doing a BusKote type of roof paint? It makes a huge difference in the heat transfer from the roof and also seals up the roof real nice.

Remove all pop rivets, don’t replace with anything but bucked rivets. If you aren’t confident about bucking rivets, pick up a simple kit from VTS and I’ll give you a lesson over FaceTime or something. It’s really easy once you get the hang of it. Plus, you’ll need to do it in other areas and now is the time to do it. Without the skins in. Speaking of which, just holler when you want to borrow mine...

Ian

Bucking rivets is definitely something I need to learn to do. I have to pick up a kit first though.

I have thought about some sort of coating for the roof to help with heat transfer. I may also coat the inside of the shell completely (don't know what) to combat all possible leaks.

After seeing what it looks like back together - I do know that I will be scrapping the idea of coating the whole outside of the trailer.

truckasaurus · 10-11-2020, 09:52 AM

That's quite the piece of work. I'd get it all cleaned up and look at the bow in case it got tweaked. If you go with a patch consider cutting the mangled skin away first as you may get away with a much slimmer repair once the damage is gone and it won't trap moisture. The repair would be pretty straightforward and if you want the scoop just ask.

GPurcell · 10-11-2020, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

That's quite the piece of work. I'd get it all cleaned up and look at the bow in case it got tweaked. If you go with a patch consider cutting the mangled skin away first as you may get away with a much slimmer repair once the damage is gone and it won't trap moisture. The repair would be pretty straightforward and if you want the scoop just ask.

I need to get a picture of it but one of my rear bows are torn... so highly likely that one or two of them are tweaked under that dent.

GPurcell · 10-11-2020, 01:16 PM

Started removing access panels that I will not be keeping. Battery boxes included.

Found a stress crack as well...

GPurcell · 10-11-2020, 01:18 PM

Is there a market for some of these pieces I have?

Some banana wrap, a bunch of trim, rear bumper, bumper "garage" hatch door, etc.

Aerowood · 10-11-2020, 04:27 PM

Yes there is..

kidjedi · 10-11-2020, 07:17 PM

Any reason you're not keeping the hatches? Being able to store stuff without dragging it through the interior is EXTREMELY beneficial. I usually add as many exterior hatches as feasible.

Also, you might consider still doing the underbelly wrap even if you aren't enclosing the underbelly. The trailer just looks much more like an Airstream "should" look (like a bullet) with that little extra curve at the bottom edge.

Finally, looking at your scraps... are you not venting your fridge? Even if you go with a compressor fridge (vs. a two or three way), it will be creating quite a bit of heat inside the trailer.

Krek · 10-11-2020, 07:49 PM

We could use the rear bumper and the fridge vents for sure.

GPurcell · 10-12-2020, 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kidjedi

Any reason you're not keeping the hatches? Being able to store stuff without dragging it through the interior is EXTREMELY beneficial. I usually add as many exterior hatches as feasible.

Also, you might consider still doing the underbelly wrap even if you aren't enclosing the underbelly. The trailer just looks much more like an Airstream "should" look (like a bullet) with that little extra curve at the bottom edge.

Finally, looking at your scraps... are you not venting your fridge? Even if you go with a compressor fridge (vs. a two or three way), it will be creating quite a bit of heat inside the trailer.

Oh I'm still keeping a bunch of the hatches. The way I will have the trailer set up however, there won't be enough room to have any feasible space to keep those two on the sides. I will, however, keep a fairly large space for the rear hatch and the two towards the front.

When you say fridge vent"s" - I'm guessing you're referring to the one from the roof and the second one that also resembles a hatch? That one was actually for the hot water heater. The fridge will stay vented.

GPurcell · 10-14-2020, 01:39 PM

Should be getting a package from Airkrafters this Friday...

Built in generator being added to this project.

GPurcell · 10-18-2020, 02:24 PM

Giving some updates to this thread. Not much work was accomplished but looking around and getting a game plan for proper patch work.

I will have to order four pre-formed panels to replace. The front passenger panel next to the wing window, both rear lower panels, and the upper rear passenger panel where the trailer met a tree.

On top of that, will be getting my hands on some sheet aluminum to patch various holes, cover that massive dent properly, and also a few more areas that will need work.

Ordered a buck riveting kit from Eastwood. Includes clecos as well.

For actual work, took apart the door to see what I am working with. At some point, the door got tweaked towards the bottom and is slightly bent so will not totally seal. Should be easy to tweak it back and also patch where the residential lock was added. Will replace the handle with one that actually works and locks.