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Old 03-07-2020, 12:25 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57Vintage View Post
An automotive seam sealer (can not a tube) can be brushed on easily.

That sounds like a pretty straightforward process. I thought I would have un-rivet the whole outer skin and buck rivet it back together to reseal seams and rivets. That would be kinda crazy right?

So, I replace all the missing buck rivets, and seal the inside seams. Not to hard.

Not quite sure about the process of reslealing outside rivet heads and seams. Sounds like I have some research to do... Haha, I notice I'm saying that phrase a lot these days...
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Old 03-07-2020, 02:18 PM   #22
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I dug around on the internet and found this video of a guy sealing the seams on a silver streak. Is this the correct way of doing things? I like the use of painters tape. I've seen some pictures on the net of some messy looking sealing jobs so I'm definitely taping.

I'm seeing differing opinions on the sealant to use here, TremPro 635 is the one I see the most but it looks hard to source. Any opinions on alternatives or is TremPro 635 the go-to? ....I probably should order some from VTS soon.

Appreciate everyone's feedback.
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Old 03-07-2020, 04:52 PM   #23
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Z-S, in listening to the VAP, we followed Colinís suggestion of using Parbond. He said they get good enough where they donít need painterís tape. We cleaned the joints of any old caulk we could get to. Then we used Captain Tolleyís to wick into the seam. Lastly we taped the joint and used Parbond. Sounds like a lot of work but wasnít that bad. No leaks that Iím aware of.
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Old 03-07-2020, 05:46 PM   #24
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A drop of Capt Tolley's on the outside edge of each bucked rivet can seal those tiny leaks invisibly. If it forms a circle around the edge, the rivet is tight, when it disappears down the shaft, wait 5 to 10 minutes and reapply. Do not sing "one little, two little, three little rivets" when other people are nearby or they will know you've lost it. Mark the leakers with a Postit or painter's tape so they are easy to find on the second application.
Also look out for Olympic rivets and consider replacing them while you have the inner skins down. They are basically pop rivets that can loosen or leak.
While you have so much of the subflooring and interior out, be aware that high winds can grab your shell and take your whole project into the dumper. Extra true if you go "shell off" with the subfloor replacement. Make sure you have some kind of temporary bracing that ties the shell ribs to the frame. Of course that will now make you want a 40 x 20 steel building... aluminitis is a progressive disease.
What are your plans for patching or disguising the slash? Some people do decorative patches. I have seen a star or two, an outhouse moon, and a maple leaf on a Canadian Airstream.
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Old 03-07-2020, 06:52 PM   #25
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Iím crazy then, because I opened every seam, removed every window frame, then cleaned, resealed, and shot every thing back together.
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Old 03-07-2020, 09:34 PM   #26
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Aerowood, yeah but you are crazy good not just crazy.

If it's all open (and it likely never will be again) and easy to get to. Seal it up.
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Old 03-08-2020, 09:32 AM   #27
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You definitely want to get everything sealed BEFORE you replace that floor or do any construction on the interior. Sitting in the trailer in a rainstorm or simulated rainstorm (via hose or pressure washer) is a very good idea before you start reconstruction.
And, yes, Aerowood is crazy good!

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Old 03-15-2020, 02:06 AM   #28
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Looking forward to following along with your build. Iíll be starting the rebuild of my Ď62 Ambassador as soon as the ground firms up enough to move it. Itís mud season in Vermont.

Regarding seam sealing, I used Eastwood Automotive Seam Sealer on all visible interior seams and rivet heads before I put up the insulation in my Safari. First I removed the original black sealer with a wire brush chucked in a 4Ē grinder. Dirty nasty job. The sealer is a little pricey, but appears to be some tough resilient stuff. -Mark
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