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Creampuff · 01-06-2006, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGED52

You Can Get Gasket That Is A (Correct Dimentionally, And Is New But Old Style) Replacement For The Dryrotted Seal On Your Window Frames From Andy At Inland Rv In California. They Sell It By The Foot On Line At Inlandrv.com,and I Understand It Is The Exact Replica Of The Original Seal. Perhaps Andy Or Diane Could Tell You How Good It Really Is... Ed

I found that the repro. gasket does not form well around the corners. The OEM gasket made the curvature better. I have done both of my Safari's with Inland's product and if I could find something else that did the job better I would buy it. The gasket curls up when you close the window and you have to run something flat like a knife blade around the corners between the glass and rubber to get it to lay down and seal prperly. This does not seem to improve with time .

pinkflamingoes · 01-07-2006, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reynolds431

so with all this talk of glass replacment, who has used what seals for their 65-68 trailer
i am replacing a 17" soon and want to also replace many of the gasgets
any suggestions on what i should buy from VTS.com
thanks
matt reynolds

I'm replacing gasket on all of my windows. I'm using the gasket I got from Inland RV for 1967's, part #45295. I think VTS carries it too. It works. It just proved itself on my one window that is completely done. (That means I scraped off old gasket and correctly installed new gasket; other windows I'm still removing old window tint before I put the new gasket in). It's very weird to install, I did it more than once on my front window but finally got it right and did it correctly the first try on a side window. It just poured down rain here for days on end, as your probably read in the news. I went outside and there are no leaks in that cleaned, finished, and sealed window. Other leaks elsewhere, but that's because there's no gasket on those.

I'm also trying to finally put in the front windowpane but that's another story. I have faith in the gasket I installed and I recommend the 1967 style gasket for yours too.

reynolds431 · 01-09-2006, 12:53 PM

thanks everyone for the tips
is everybody using the 3m glue for the seals?

reynolds431 · 02-01-2006, 05:04 PM

are the clips at the bottom of the windows hard to find?

Creampuff · 02-01-2006, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reynolds431

are the clips at the bottom of the windows hard to find?

Orig. ones are. Repros. are available at Inland RV but I only recommend them for 'framed' windows. If you hold tight for awhile I believe Steve at Vintage Trailer Supply may be manufacturing some.

clancy_boy · 02-01-2006, 07:54 PM

What do you mean by "framed window"? Do you mean there is an AL frame around the glass? My original (66 Caravel) glass is "frameless" and the clips are stuck to the edge of the glass. I was planning to order some replacement clips but now you have me questioning my decision. I need to replace the 4 clips that are missing. What is wrong with the ones from Inland RV?

Mike

till · 02-01-2006, 08:16 PM

What Murry means is the 1968 version of the curved corning windows. In 1968 Airstream and the window maker added a stainless steel edging to the curved glass to help strengthen it. The clips that Inland sells are for these type of window. The clip is wider to slip over the edging wich is thicker than just the plain glass of the 1966/67 version of these cool windows....

The Inland ones can be squeezed down before installation but I have heard that they don not look the same. I have been trying to get some tooling made at work to make the thinner version, but work keeps getting in the way.

Forrest · 02-01-2006, 08:20 PM

Some of these questions are addressed in the current issue of Airstream Life. However, Steve's VintageTrailersupply.com, has glass that you can order for years '66 through '68. For year 1969 and on Airstream Inc. will replace the glass for those windows, including the years Corning glass was used, 1969 to 1972 (or '73). The clips on the bottoms of the windows is spring steel and that is the material that should be used for any replacements. Occasionally, these will come up for sale on e-Bay, but at a premium price. A good metal fabrication shop can produce duplicates if they have a pattern of one to copy. Any steel other than spring steel will eventually, if not quickly, lose its shape and grip on the glass.

Forrest · 02-01-2006, 08:24 PM

Till, is correct. Inland's are way too fat to fit properly as they are made to fit over the Stainless steel trim he sells to go with his plastic replacement windows. The original Stainless steel trim on '68 windows was cut out to provide an opening for the clips. So in those instances the clips did not have to fit over the trim. If it were not designed this way then there would be a noticable bulge from the combination of clip and trim and you would not get a good seal on the gasket.

clancy_boy · 02-02-2006, 09:59 AM

Thanks,

I have been compiling a list of small things to buy from many parts houses and 4 of these clips were part of that list. Shipping can kill you on small orders as you all know so I am trying to get all the stuff I need at one time as I go through my Caravel.

Mike

reynolds431 · 02-03-2006, 03:42 PM

i just recently replaced the galley window with glass from vts but while i still have the steel trim but the clips have gone missing i stole the clips frome the vanity window because that window is lexan and will be replaced soon enough
...on a not quite seprate note but after installing the glass from vts when the window is closed it does not close evely at the bottom once i crank the bottom clips in the window will seal but with out them it would not

pinkflamingoes · 02-04-2006, 11:30 AM

you can cut and bend a piece of metal to make a window clip. It's not hard, and they fit the frameless glass nicely. Just use a vise and a pair of pliers.

TomW · 02-04-2006, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes

you can cut and bend a piece of metal to make a window clip...

Yes, but as Forrest pointed out, it needs to be spring steel, which is not a cake walk to work with. And, if you want it to last more than a couple of seasons, it needs to be some flavor of stainless steel.

If Andy's clips had been the right size for frameless windows, I would have bought many. As it is, JBWelded scabs of steel are holding a few of my clips together.

Every season sees them getting an anti-rust touchup.

Tom

eubank · 02-05-2006, 09:06 AM

Oh, boy, I just found out that our 67 has the type 3 window attachment mechanism! (It's about time I found this out. Bought the new windows nearly a year ago and still hadn't found the time to install them!)

Lynn

BIGED52 · 02-05-2006, 09:53 AM

Lynn, Don't forget the bedding tape! I am still waiting for VTS to stock window clips in the right size for my new windows. The ones I bought from Andy at Inland work but don't look right. Ed

eubank · 02-05-2006, 10:49 AM

Yep, I did an open search for "glazing tape" and found it to be fairly common. I'll see if they don't have it at the local hardware store tomorrow ...

Lynn

reynolds431 · 02-05-2006, 06:16 PM

steve at vts told me that i did not need to use bedding tape but rather a high grade silicone sealent/adheasive. it seams to have worked well. i have type 3 windows and i have to say that instlation was a snap. i did take a few days to prep every thing ie cleaning off the old bedding tape and silicone. but window instlation is just about a two person job. most everything can be done by one person but you may need some one to hold the glass while you put in the screwes. i did dry fit a few times to make sure that i under stood what i was going to need to do and when. also i used a dry erase marker to mark the how much of the glass was in the window bar and where to put the masking tape to make the silicone have a nice clean edge. i also taped the window six ways to sunday so that the silicone could set before i wanted it to support the weight of the glass.

BIGED52 · 02-07-2006, 12:40 PM

The main concern with silicone adhesives is they tend not to stay stuck to the aluminum after a while. (Check out sealing roof vents and openings with silicone). When you factor in UV exposure, vibration of the trailer going down the road, and the cost of replacement glass.... bedding tape would sure seem the safe way to grip the glass and insure against premature loss of a window. I believe from what I've seen on 66,67, and 68 trailers that bedding tape was factory installed and has held windows in, pretty good, for almost 40 years. It comes down to personal preference in the end but, I'll go with what holds the window tighter in the hinge/clamp. Ed

eubank · 02-07-2006, 04:29 PM

Welllll, that does it. Bedding tape (apparently AKA glazing tape) is what I'll use. Not that it makes a lot of difference to plans here: I still have to drive to Taos to get anything at all.

Lynn

BIGED52 · 02-07-2006, 05:38 PM

Lynn, Wait a few days and Ingrid (PINKFLAMINGOES) will tell us how the tape works on her window installs. I think using the tape allows for a better grip on the glass and aluminum hinge/clamp. It also requires no set-up time as adhesives do and a lot less mess to cleanup later, and as I said earlier in this thread it really comes down to personal preference... but if it was good from the factory for 30 to 40 years why take any chances. I know there are new adhesives out there but when the glass shop also recommends bedding tape I think I'll... stick...with that! (PUN INTENDED) Ed