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Old 09-07-2020, 09:57 PM   #1
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1992 29' Excella
PLANO , TX
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way to reconnect pipe to valve

Airstream is 1976 27' rear bath overlander. I just discovered one of the cold and hot water copper pipe was broken near hot and cold water combine valve. My question is what is the way to reconnect the pipe to the valve?
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Old 09-08-2020, 03:27 AM   #2
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
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Welcome to the forum!

The failure of your old copper pipe suggests [IMO] that it may be time to start replacing the copper with PEX, and to replace that valve while you are at it.

https://www.google.com/search?q=PEX+...=airforums.com

Many threads in these search results concern vintage Airstreams like yours.

Good luck,
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Old 09-08-2020, 11:22 AM   #3
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Fitchburg , Wisconsin
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Xin Li I hope you enjoy your Airstream. I have a ‘76 trailer too and had several breaks in the copper pipes because of freezing during a previous owner. I changed all the piping to pex which wasn’t too hard.
Dennis
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Old 09-09-2020, 08:00 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by dennis3751 View Post
Xin Li I hope you enjoy your Airstream. I have a ‘76 trailer too and had several breaks in the copper pipes because of freezing during a previous owner. I changed all the piping to pex which wasn’t too hard.
Dennis
Thanks. Is yours rear bath? Did you have to remove everything in rear bath to change all the piping to pex? Could you share how you did it?
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Old 09-09-2020, 08:17 AM   #5
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Tampa , Florida
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I've had good luck with rubber couplings.
I had a repetitive crack between an ABS drain pipe and brass shower drain. After replacing it a couple times, I added the rubber coupling. No more problems.
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Old 09-09-2020, 09:25 AM   #6
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1976 31' Excella 500
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That's a bad solder joint where the pipe was inserted into the shower valve. I just had to re-solder one of mine last week. Google soldering copper pipe. IT's really easy. REMOVE THE CARTRIDGE SO IT WON'T MELT INSIDE THE VALVE.
Clean the joint surface inside the valve and clean outside the pipe with sand paper or Emory cloth,
add flux to inside of socket and outside of pipe,
insert pipe completely,
slowly heat pipe first with your propane torch, then move flame to valve socket keeping it facing toward the pipe,
add solder slowly until it's drawn in all the way around, Done.

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Old 09-09-2020, 01:14 PM   #7
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1970 23' Safari
Torrance , California
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The couple shown in the post above is NOT for PRESSURIZED CONNECTIONS. It is a NOHUB Coupler used for waste and vent lines only. It will NOT hold pressure. Best bet is to solder as others indicated
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Old 09-09-2020, 01:27 PM   #8
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Greetings from Colorado. I have a 75 Overlander 27 twin bed rear bath. I had many freeze splits in the copper plumbing that had been repaired with hoses and clamps. Not good. I replaced all the plumbing with modern PEX. Soldering copper tubing is a skilled trade that takes some practice. I've done it, but I'm not good at it.

Some shower valves come with threaded connections. I don't know what that reducing fitting is sticking out of your valve where the copper tube had been cut. Maybe it will unthread.

Some Forum members will cringe at this idea. I have had good luck with "Shark bite" fittings. They are very handy for "solderless" repairs. Maybe that is a possibility. I have 3 of them in my wife's Airstream and 10 years, no leaks.

Knowing our trailers, there isn't much room for plumbing work back there. Some "disassembly" required.

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Old 09-09-2020, 03:12 PM   #9
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That can be soldered, that is a reduction coupler should be an easy fix. Put a wet rag on the valve body to protect it. However I would start replacing with PEX. When and where ever you can get at it.
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Old 09-09-2020, 03:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis3751 View Post
Xin Li I hope you enjoy your Airstream. I have a ‘76 trailer too and had several breaks in the copper pipes because of freezing during a previous owner. I changed all the piping to pex which wasn’t too hard.
Dennis


Sorry for the late response. I changed out the valve but it was fairly difficult. The bottom of the cabinet lifts out to give you a little access. Also you can get to some of this area through the low rear “trunk” door over the bumper. Most of the piping going forward to the kitchen and fresh water tank is easy to get to under the curb side bed.
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Old 09-09-2020, 09:03 PM   #11
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1992 29' Excella
PLANO , TX
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Thanks for all your reply. I had to taken out the shell from the cabinet. Only my head can get in. There is very little room to do solder. Hard to solder it correctly.

I think I have to remove bathroom to redo all plumbing with pex.

Another question is how to remove toilet? where are the screws to fasten toiler to the floor?
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Old 09-09-2020, 10:37 PM   #12
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They are tricky to get to, try using a mirror so you can see inside from the back, the flange unscrews from the tank, if you need to remove that as well
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Old 09-10-2020, 09:10 AM   #13
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1992 29' Excella
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis3751 View Post
Xin Li I hope you enjoy your Airstream. I have a ‘76 trailer too and had several breaks in the copper pipes because of freezing during a previous owner. I changed all the piping to pex which wasn’t too hard.
Dennis
Hi Dennis, what fittings you used when you replaced all piping with pex? I read some where they said Sharkbites fittings is not good for RV.
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Old 09-10-2020, 10:37 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xin Li View Post
Hi Dennis, what fittings you used when you replaced all piping with pex? I read some where they said Sharkbites fittings is not good for RV.


Xin
I used Sharkbite fittings since I couldn’t find a crimping tool under $200. They have worked for me but I do check things each season. I also bought red and blue tubing so it is easy to identify the hot and cold water.
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