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Old 06-13-2010, 10:46 AM   #1
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1972 31' Sovereign
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Water Pump Sprung Leak...Need advice FAST

Opened the door this morning to have some coffee in the sun and noticed water running from the bellypan onto the ground under door/sink/watertank area. Think to myself "this can't be good." Finish coffee figuring a) I'll need it and b) been leaking who knows how long (though not when I went to bed last night) so five more minutes won't be the end of the world.

I do a quick visual of all interior plumbing starting back and moving front: shower, sink, toilet, water heater, plumbing to front under center bed, kitchen cabinet and kitchen sink--all dry. Then I slide open door to look at the water pump, which I don't really use much as I'm mostly connected to city water. Water is spewing from the side of the pump. And, of course it's Sunday and I'm nowhere convenient to an RV Supply (or at least one I like enough to do business with).

So here's my question: IS it possible (well, I know it's possible--would it be OK) to just cut out the water connections to and from the pump and just by-pass the thing altogether since the city water is pressurized. I could do this pretty quickly and easily with some PEX and compression fittings. Even if only for a few days till I could get a new pump to switch out the old one. Or, does the pump serve some real purpose I'm not aware of when connected to city water? I believe I already have a check valve on the city water inlet line back near the Watts Water Regulator. And I also use an external water regulator at the city inlet fitting.

Any input appreciated ASAP.

BTW, it's a 72 Sovereign.
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:08 AM   #2
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If you bypass the water pump, you will have a direct connection from the city water to the fresh water tank. A check valve in the pump prevents the back flow of water and filling and overfilling the tank. As a temporary fix you could just cap the line on the output side of the pump. If it is pex and you are going to replace it later, you could fold the output line of the pump over and clamp it with a pair of vice grips or something like that.
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:15 AM   #3
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See, this I did not know, which is exactly why I was hoping for some feedback before I get out the hacksaw a bit later. I def don't want the tank filling/overfilling. Seems like a ggod place for a ball valve. There are valves with compression fitting connections available...seems like that would be a possible way to go too, no? Then I can just keep the valve closed to prevent the tank from filling.
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:15 AM   #4
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oh, and mucho thanx for your quick response.
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Old 06-13-2010, 12:24 PM   #5
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Pics for clarification on waterpump



Here's a pic of the waterpump in question. The Red circles are from the freshwater tank to the pump (drawing water into the pump from the tank) and the Orange circles show the water flow out of the pump to the cold water (main) line. It appears there's only one access point to the main cold line at the T in the green rectangle. So if I were to cut out that T and replace that with a straight compression fitting, I should be able to both circumvent the water pump and prevent any water from the line getting back to the freshwater tank. And as long as I am connected at the city water inlet, I should still have water throughout the trailer as the sink, shower and water heater all seem to draw water off the cold line before it comes up to the kitchen area to the sink in the kitchen and the waterpump (this is a rear bath model trailer). Again, this would be a short term solution...I do plan to replace the pump in the long term. Would this work alright? Or am I still not getting something. I get there's a check valve in the pump, but if no water can get to the pump and that is the only connection to the freshwater tank, then eliminating the line to the pump also eliminates any access for water to fill the tank from the tank connection to the pump. Any input is greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-13-2010, 12:37 PM   #6
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Why don't you just disconnect the hoses from the leaking water pump and plug them? When you get an new water pump you can remove the plugs, hook up, and be done.
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Old 06-13-2010, 12:51 PM   #7
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Not sure that would work as it is the pump that is cracked and leaking, not the hoses or the copper.
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Old 06-13-2010, 12:54 PM   #8
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my short term goal is to just stop water from getting to the leaky pump (or back to the freshwater tank), but still be able to use water from the city water inlet for the next two days till I get home and can see about getting a new pump.
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Old 06-13-2010, 01:05 PM   #9
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Need to run to get some supplies and lunch.

Will check back in about an hour.

Still looking for any input...
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Old 06-13-2010, 01:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stonyfork View Post
Not sure that would work as it is the pump that is cracked and leaking, not the hoses or the copper.
Plug the hoses, not the pump. That takes the pump completely out. That is exactly the situation in my Trad Wind right now. I even have the same kind of pump with cracks in it.
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Old 06-14-2010, 12:20 PM   #11
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Just wanted to end the thread by showing the "fix" I used. After removing the rubber hose connecting the pump to the cold water line, I luckily found enough 1/2" pipe to cap it with a Sharkbite fitting. This removed the pump (and freshwater tank) from any water connection. It stopped the leak, which was the pump itself; now I have running water via the city water connection. And I can take all the time I want to find and install a replacement pump. Yay---another item on the list of things to get to...
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