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Old 08-26-2022, 09:23 PM   #1
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1963 16' Bambi
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Water pump plumbing diagram.

Hey everyone, I can’t find the plumbing section of the forum, so I’ll post here.

I’m running the water lines and want to know if this all looks correct.

The new water pump I ordered is:
Self priming
Auto start stop
3.5GPM

Is the pump strong enough to maintain pressure across the kitchen sink, toilet and shower?

This is how I plan to run the water line.

Pump inlet from water tank
Pump outlet goes to a T fitting- 1 side of the t fitting goes to a shut off valve which then goes to the exterior water hook up. Other side of the T continues to a second T.

The second T goes to the kitchen sink and then to another T.

The finally T goes to the shower and toilet.

The shut off valve between the pump and water hook is is used to shut the water hook up if I am dry camping.
If I have access to a shore water(I think that’s what it’s called), I’ll open the valve and run the trailer water system from the shore water.

Any issues with shore water putting pressure against the pump outlet?



As I ask this question, should I add a second shut off valve from the water hook up going to the water tank? This would be used to fill the water tank if water is low and wouldn’t be a need to disconnect the water hose from the water hook up and walk it around to the tank fill hole…?

I’ve added 2 diagrams that I drew really quick.
I like the second digram as it will make filling the tank a lot easier.

Any advice or direction on how to do it is appreciated!
Thanks.

Edit: The photos came out blurry but hopefully it makes sense.
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Old 08-26-2022, 09:48 PM   #2
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Any issues with shore water putting pressure against the pump outlet?

That is the normal installation, though some people have added a manual valve or anti-back flow valve between pump and rest of system since a very small amount of debris can cause the anti-back flow operation of the pump to fail and then overflow the fresh tank.

Everything else looks good, if you add in the fill system you should open the tank while filling, you may cause damage if you overfill the tank if the fill is closed.
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Old 08-26-2022, 10:02 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wazbro View Post
Any issues with shore water putting pressure against the pump outlet?

That is the normal installation, though some people have added a manual valve or anti-back flow valve between pump and rest of system since a very small amount of debris can cause the anti-back flow operation of the pump to fail and then overflow the fresh tank.

Everything else looks good, if you add in the fill system you should open the tank while filling, you may cause damage if you overfill the tank if the fill is closed.
Great! Thank you. So I just need to add a valve between the pump outlet before the rest of the system?
I’ve added the new shut off valve to the digram.
It will all work as it’s shown?
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Old 08-26-2022, 10:36 PM   #4
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Water pump plumbing diagram.

You probably have thought of this and it’s just not included in your diagram.
1. A shut off should be included between the pump and the water tank, for winterizing so you can blow air and isolate your water tank.

2. A drain is needed for the water tank.

3. How will you fill your water tank, from city water inlet? An overflow is needed, serves two functions, 1. Unless your going to visually fill your tank, you won’t know when it’s full. 2. If water were to back flow from the city water inlet, your coach could flood.

4.Shut off valves are important at each fixture to avoid shutting down the whole system for a leak.

5.No hot water system? Maybe that’s not in the plan.
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Old 08-26-2022, 11:00 PM   #5
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Hey thanks for the reply, I didn’t think of the shut off valve between the tank and the pump.
I did however think of how I would purge the lines of water when not in use. I just figured that’s how people ran them.
So it is recommended to add a shut off valve there?
Does that valve have to come off when I blow air through the lines? Or do I attach it to a T fitting and allow the left over water to spray out of the T fitting?

The tank does have a drain, it’s leaking so I’m going to replace the components on it.

The tank is on the opposite side of the city/shore water hook up, so the main tank fill hole is also on the side of the tank.
It’s just a 1.5 hole on the side of the trailer with a hose connecting it to the tank. I just pop a water hose in there from the house and it fills up.
It has a breather hole which also goes up near the fill hole. When filling up, I can look at the water gauge or wait until water starts coming out of the breather hole or fill hole.

As for actual water hook up when at a camp ground, it’s a standard female water hose inlet.
The plan is to run that water hook up line to the system with the shut off valve and open the valve when I’m hooked up.

I hadn’t thought about leaks from the city/shore water. I am assuming all my connections will be tight and strong enough to hold that water pressure.
Since that water pressure is directly from the ground and not the tank, I see no way of bypassing it if it starts to leak.


I was planning on using those “copper shark bite” fittings and plastic lines because of the curves the lines will need to make.

I am using a tankless propane water heater for the shower only. It would be attached in my digram where it just says shower.

The sink will just have to be what we temperature the city water or my tank water is.
I still need to look at water filters to see if any water from the kitchen sink can be used for drinking water.

Which brings another question.
I installed a new faucet. The faucet has 2 inlets (hot/cold) I want to put a T between the faucet and the water feed line, that way no matter which way the faucet is turned on, it will have water.
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Old 08-26-2022, 11:09 PM   #6
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This is the pump I have.
RVGUARD Fresh Water Pump, 12V DC Self Priming Diaghram Water Pump, 3.5 GMP with Strainer Filter, Adapters, for RV, Yacht, Garden, Camper https://a.co/d/gm5a08U

It has the butterfly wing nuts. I suppose I could just unscrew the pump from the lines, and blow air through the system?
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Old 08-27-2022, 05:30 AM   #7
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Water pump plumbing diagram.

I found this schematic useful to understand common RV plumbing systems.

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I ended up deviating from it to a degree but not significantly. Here is an annotated photograph of what works for my plumbing near the water pump.

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Here is another angle that shows the freshwater tank fittings better.

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Old 08-27-2022, 08:52 AM   #8
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For the valve between tank and pump, rather then a shut-off valve many people use a valve that can switch between the tank and a hose that can go into a jug of RV anti-freeze.

Also a good idea to attach flexible hoses to each side of pump to reduce vibration/noise.
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Old 08-27-2022, 12:46 PM   #9
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I have done all the above plus adding an electric on/off valve and placed the control switch in a convenient place. When filing the fresh water tank be sure an remove the filler cap so the air can escape. Also, cycle the switch when blowing out the water line or adding antifreeze.
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Old 08-27-2022, 02:58 PM   #10
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Atomic_13, your plumbing looks like what I am describing.
You’re using a relay for the pump?
I was just going to wire the pump to a switch panel and turn it on/off as needed.

Wazbro, so a Y type fitting between the pump inlet and the tank?
I’m not sure if I’ll try to source a filter that will make the water drinkable. Does such filter exist?
The antifreeze is a good idea for winter time, but contaminate the system.?

Guskmg, where did you place the electric valve and what is it used for?
When I blow air through the system, I think the best way would be to disconnect the pump outlet, open any valves in the system and blow air from the water/city hook up.


Is there a minimum diameter required for the water lines? The copper lines on the faucet are probably 3/8”. I’m going to try to go buy all the hardware needed later today.

Thanks all.
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Old 08-27-2022, 04:30 PM   #11
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Wazbro, so a Y type fitting between the pump inlet and the tank?
Yes many RV places sell them as/in winterizing kits.

I’m not sure if I’ll try to source a filter that will make the water drinkable. Does such filter exist?
Very hard to find a filter that will make water drinkable that isn't drinkable. Most people just get one to make drinkable water better, also a good idea to at least use a cheap hose filter for all water entering your plumbing to keep as much debris out as possible. You should also have a regulator for you city water connection.

The antifreeze is a good idea for winter time, but contaminate the system.?
Keep the RV antifreeze out of the fresh tank and it will be fine just run each faucet for a couple minutes after they look clear.(must be RV antifreeze not for cars)

Is there a minimum diameter required for the water lines? The copper lines on the faucet are probably 3/8”. I’m going to try to go buy all the hardware needed later today.
Most people use 1/2" some use 3/8", smaller diameter adds restriction with length. With a 16' trailer the runs may be short enough to not matter. It is a good idea to use only one size so you can carry less spare parts and 1/2" fittings seem to be the most common/easiest to find anywhere that has any size fittings. Valves that go from 1/2" PEX or 1/2" SharkBite to 3/8" compression are easy to find, then common hoses to go from them to fixtures.
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Old 08-27-2022, 06:13 PM   #12
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Great, I’ll look for a Y fitting with valve to attach before the pump.

Is there any filters to recommend to clean the water from the city water?
I’ll carry packs of water bottles, but in the off chance I need to drink water from the tank, might be good to look into some filters.

Is this a filter that could be used to keep debris out of the system?

Twinkle Star Sediment Filter Attachment Line Water Hose Filter with 100 Mesh and 40 Mesh Screen, 2Pcs O-Ring, Garden Hose Filter Pressure Washer Inlet for RV Camping Car Wash Water Hose https://a.co/d/46qQafo

Or something like this?
Twinkle Star Sediment Filter Attachment Line Water Hose Filter with 100 Mesh and 40 Mesh Screen, 2Pcs O-Ring, Garden Hose Filter Pressure Washer Inlet for RV Camping Car Wash Water Hose https://a.co/d/dpiZGC7

The pump came with its own strainer so I’ll use that on the pump side.

This regulator looks good.
What is a good pressure to set it at?
Limited-time deal: RVGUARD RV Water Pressure Regulator Valve, Brass Lead-Free Adjustable Water Pressure Reducer with Gauge and Inlet Screen Filter for RV Camper Travel Trailer https://a.co/d/7d6bdZ7
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Old 08-27-2022, 08:39 PM   #13
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That regulator looks good, the max pressure you should set it for is 60psi, some say as low as 35psi that seems too low to me.

A filter like this one is fairly popular.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-TastePU...s%2C124&sr=8-5
Not sure if the one you linked is safe for drinking water.
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Old 08-27-2022, 11:44 PM   #14
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The water pump I got is preset to 45 psi. Should I turn it up to 60 psi?

Thanks for the link on the filter.
The filter would go between the pump/city water hook up and the rest of the system correct?


I went to go look at plumbing hardware. It was about $150. I wasn’t expecting that for a small 8ft trailer.
It was PEX tubing, shark bite Ts and valves.

One issue I ran into, the 1/2” PEX tube does not slide over the barbed fitting on the water pump outlet/inlet.
They are the same OD size.

Any idea how to bridge the 2?


Thanks.
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Old 08-28-2022, 02:23 AM   #15
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Another small thing I’ve forgotten!
The original water hook up is about a 3/8
I need to figure out how to hook it up or find a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter.
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Old 08-28-2022, 03:24 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serf27 View Post
Atomic_13, your plumbing looks like what I am describing.
You’re using a relay for the pump?
I was just going to wire the pump to a switch panel and turn it on/off as needed.

Yes. Most do use a relay. The pumps draw quite a few amps. You’ll want a switch to turn on the water pump in the bathroom and by the kitchen sink. Small gauge wire and simple switches can be used if you use a relay. Otherwise you’ll be using much larger and more costly wire and switches for the wire runs to these areas to prevent voltage drop.
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Old 08-28-2022, 04:06 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serf27 View Post
The water pump I got is preset to 45 psi. Should I turn it up to 60 psi?

Thanks for the link on the filter.
The filter would go between the pump/city water hook up and the rest of the system correct?


I went to go look at plumbing hardware. It was about $150. I wasn’t expecting that for a small 8ft trailer.
It was PEX tubing, shark bite Ts and valves.

One issue I ran into, the 1/2” PEX tube does not slide over the barbed fitting on the water pump outlet/inlet.
They are the same OD size.

Any idea how to bridge the 2?


Thanks.
Seems like 45 psi should be fine. Water flow is as important as water pressure to a good shower.

I would suggest you don't connect the PEX tubing directly to your water pump. It's too stiff and will transmit all the vibrations from the pump to your trailer. Many people use flexible tubing to make the transition between the pump and the main plumbing - a loop about 10-12" in diameter of nylon-reinforced tubing should do the trick. This will also solve your problem getting the PEX to fit your pump.
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Old 08-28-2022, 08:43 AM   #18
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The filter I linked goes on the hose outside the trailer.

45 should be fine, 60 is the max to not go over.

Those SharBite connectors are quite expensive, check prices on PEX connectors and a PEX tool, might be cheaper. I use the PEX stainless steel crimp rings and a small ratcheting tool. There are cheaper tools you can use that aren't as compact.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 08-28-2022, 11:27 PM   #19
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Atomic_13, I’ve got the needed wiring already ran for the pump. I should be fine with no relay then.

Richard, I will look for that style line sold by the foot. The store only had a precut spool. I know I’ve seen it on those reels where you buy what you need.

Wazbro, So I should also connect that filter to the water hose when I fill up the water tank from the main fill hole then too?

Thanks for the help all.


I bought most of the supplies today.
I went with the PEX barbed fittings.
I added some elbows to the mix, fittings for the PEX line connection to the faucet, and a fitting for the city water hook up to the PEX line.
$110 for 1/2” parts. With the new parts added, I’m sure I would’ve gone over $200 if I got the sharkbite style.

I’m going to order the clamps and tool from Amazon.

One part I couldn’t find, the 3 way valve to switch between the water tank and the antifreeze.
Antifreeze and blowing air through the lines has been discussed. Am I to blow air and then pump antifreeze after? Or is it one or the other?

I’m also looking at the outlet for the tank.
ANPTGHT 1/2" Female ABS Bulkhead Fitting, Plastic Water Tank Connector Adapter Fitting with Plugs for Outdoor rain Barrel Garden Hose Adapter Spigot kit Water Tank Gallon Drain Bucket(Set of 2) https://a.co/d/bgtBbpD

The inner thread diameter is shown as 20 mm/.78”
Would a 3/4 fitting screw into this? A 3/4” fitting with a 1/2” barbed fitting on the other end. This way I can hook the tank up to the pump.

And this piece for the tank drain.
Van Enterprises 3/4" Drain Valve Plug Kit for Rain Barrels, Tuff Stuff, Rubbermaid Water Tanks, Behrens Steel Tanks, Tubs, Pools https://a.co/d/4iDpAY3

This is what I could find, if there’s better options, please let me know.

Thanks.
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Old 08-29-2022, 10:54 AM   #20
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Wazbro, So I should also connect that filter to the water hose when I fill up the water tank from the main fill hole then too?
Yes, it is a good idea to keep debris out of the tank.

This is a kit with the valve.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-C...85&sr=8-3&th=1
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