re-plumbed '67 Safari

[tod47d]

I just finished replacing all the copper plumping in our 67 Safari 22'. The old plumbing had many blown up pipes and splits and repairs so I pulled it and started from scratch using a diagram I made, and the old pipes as a template.
I wanted to pass on what I think is an innovative solution to easy reinstalling and testing.
I divided the rear plumbing into 4 segments
1. Cold water portsidea(inlet, regulator,toilet,pump/tank,cold shwr)
2. cold water starboard (WHtr,kitch,bath sink)
3. hot water portside (only feeding one 3/8" to Hot shower)
4. hot water starboard(from WHtr to kitch, bath sink)

I built each qadrant independently and soldered a 1/2" threaded fitting on each of the four. All major soldering was done outside our bauxite bisquit.
This made it real easy to pressure test each quadrant independently using a 1/2"to3/4" adapter and a water hose.
It also made installing each quadrant real easy as I used a 12"x1/2"x1/2" stainless braided line in between quadrants in the rear. (actually one 12" and one 20") as this method gives a lot of leeway for precision errors.
Headaches encountered centered around the industry standard of rating various pipes by I.D. And O.D. (inner and outer diameter) interchangeably. I used type "L" as this is thicker and the 1/2" ID is 5/8' OD. This is true for all sizes so sending Marlo to get pipe without a sample generated another trip to the "big box" store.
I can easily unscrew any quadrant for modifications without pulling the whole system or heating up 5/8" pipe in confined spaces. The 3/8" and 1/4" fittings heat up easily with a dish to deflect flame from plastic areas.
I added two cut off valves to isolate the WHtr for easy removal etc.. I used braided stainless to the faucetts as well for easy replacement when needed. Oh yeah, I used a big makita side angle grinder to remove (destroy) the bath faucett. It was rusted so hard at the bottom that I thought I would break the plastic sink with more force, So I ground it (brass) down to the nub from the top after I discovered the plastic is protected by big honkin' 3"x1/8" washers below the faucett assembly. It dropped down easily after my relentless rednek assault!

[Johndigbydog]

Do you have any pictures you can send or post with the new water system? Did you use all rigid copper and what did you do about all the funky complicated mess around the toilet? Also, what did you do about toilet replacement if you replaced it? Can you show how you attached the braided flex as well? Thanks John

[tod47d]

I had to remove a good bit of that belly pan area and used braided stainless to fittings that I soldered on, no picts and could not take any now that I have a digital, sorry. I used thick wall rigid, but I think soft copper or PEX would be fine., Sorry for late reply, we were at Rickey Rat's place in Orlando(Loved it!) todd in ATL---404

[tod47d]

Wow am just remembering how restrictive some of those areas were between plastic liner and shell. I did ALL soldering outside shell, mesured, added threaded couplings sometimes removing ,unsoldering , sanding fluxing soldering again untill it was right enough for the girls I go with!
The two couplings are near under starboard bed, pre made pipes shoved forward of the braided hose jucture pointwhich serves as a 12" or 18" margin of error or wigglle room. the aft pipe was shoved in from the stern. Then couplings are like hooking up a 2 ended garden hose (with pliers)
I removed tiolet and replaced floor (marine grade plywood) and reused old toilet during another furious redneck assault.
I thought about drawing a diagram but got cought up with more projects!

[tod47d]

Oh man, I did not remove my belly pan to get at supply plumbing, THAT was for my wacky wredneck assault on the tub-drain leak that I inherited at purchase. No need to remove belly pan for freshwater plumbing!