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Old 06-01-2011, 10:55 AM   #1
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1960 18' Traveler
1975 27' Overlander
La Honda , California
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Question PVC as an upgrade?

I've got a 1960 Traveler, 18' long. I'm slowly redoing all the original gaskets that have dried out. I got a new leak from a black steel pipe elbow joint near the drain line so I'm going to have to take that apart. As I stared at it, I wondered if changing the original steel pipe fittings to PVC is a good idea. It seems like it would be lighter (not that it matters to my F350) but would the plastic be more susceptible to cracking and leaking due to the trailer movement?

Any thoughts? I plan to have this trailer a long time. Actually my wife will probably let me go before she lets the traveler get away.
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:08 PM   #2
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Are there still Pranksters in La Honda?

In my 59, I removed all the rusty iron pipes. They are so very heavy, and while it might not make a difference to your towing vehicle, it might make a difference to the wear and tear of your beautiful trailer - but most likely not.

I replaced the plumbing lines with PEX and the drain lines with a combo of ABS and PVC. ABS and PVC are fairly indestructible, easy to work with, and cheap/convenient to replace if necessary in the future.

Always best to travel light!
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:39 PM   #3
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Current production trailers use ABS, which is somewhat lighter than PVC, a little easier to work with, and maybe a little cheaper.
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:41 PM   #4
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second the motion for full replacement. PEX is wonderful to work with. can get the crimper and fittings at Lowes and HD.
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Old 06-04-2011, 01:14 PM   #5
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Excellent feedback. I'm jammed until after the 4th of July but will look at a full changeover after that.

Thanks,
Bob
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Old 06-04-2011, 02:50 PM   #6
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For fresh water lines, I'd stick to PEX - no need for solvents in the water you drink/cook and shower in. Drainlines can be whatever works - and in tight places, the flexible stuff they make for marine use is very handy indeed.

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Old 06-14-2011, 03:01 PM   #7
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Good thought on the potable water lines. I'll do that.
Unfortunately, I just took a dive on my bike, broke my elbow and dislocated my shoulder so my AS rehab time will be pushed back until I have two hands. I'm at least 7-8 weeks out before I'll be able to really put force through the bones.
Harumph.
Oh well, it gives me lots of time to plan the job.

Thanks for the input.

Bob
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Old 06-14-2011, 03:51 PM   #8
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PEX is the modern way on water lines. It is flexible, so you don't have a lot of 90˚ and 45˚ corners and resists freezing better. Don't use PVC on hot water lines should you decide to not use PEX; you have to use CPVC for hot water. ABS is commonly used on drains now because it is so cheap. Make sure you use the right glue and clean the ABS completely before gluing with cleaner for it. Do not use purple primer on ABS—it dissolves it too much. Purple primer is for PVC and CPVC.

Sorry to hear about your fall. You can now spend all your time on the Forum.

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Old 06-14-2011, 05:24 PM   #9
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I will chime in with PEX for water lines, I plan to use red and blue so I know what is which...assuming I plumb it correctly.

ABS for drain lines, ABS is a bit softer than PVC and less susceptible to cracking in something that moves. Cheap too and extremely easy to work with compared to cast iron, all you need is a white marker, a tape measure and a hacksaw and you will be a plumber

And while you are happily planning re-plumbing don't forget to consider the LP lines. On my 1975 they are located on the underside of the belly pan, I plan to replace all of them for safety's sake. After 35+ years of exposure to god only knows what, I figure they are over due. Also some of my shut offs don't work.

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Old 06-14-2011, 07:09 PM   #10
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If you don't want to spend the extra cash on red and blue PEX, you can just use clear and put red electrical tape on the hot water lines.

And ABS is the standard for RV drain/vent lines, but for me it was really hard to find the fittings I needed, so I just used PVC. You can go back and forth between the two if you use the universal solvent that works on both.

Good luck!

-Marcus
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Old 06-15-2011, 10:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utee94 View Post
If you don't want to spend the extra cash on red and blue PEX, you can just use clear and put red electrical tape on the hot water lines.
I did this as well, and then put some insulation foam tubing on the PEX. I did all this before the last freeze of the year - I tend to get impatient - and the PEX didn't leak or burst. There was still water in the plumbing lines and an icicle hanging out of the kitchen faucet. After the thaw, no problems. Except I think the O-rings in my kitchen spray-nozzle blew out in the freeze, so now it leaks. Overall, a $15 replacement part at Home Depot is almost like getting away scott-free!

Thanks Crawford Gene for the tip about the purple primer. Good to know. Methyl ethyl deathyl is probably not good to drink consistently.

Woodywhite that sounds like quite a dive. I hope you heal quickly and have the use of both wings soon!
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Old 06-15-2011, 11:21 AM   #12
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Our kitchen sprayer cracked. It looks almost like pot metal and is obviously the cheapest part they could find. It didn't help that I forgot to drain all the water out of it one winterizing session.

You can use purple primer in PVC and CPVC—it etches the plastic so the plastic bonds better. I haven't tried it as a drink however. The important thing with gluing plastic pipes is to get them absolutely clean and if you get that right, they hardly ever leak.

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Old 06-18-2011, 03:34 PM   #13
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Thanks for the encouragement on the arm. It's a real nuisance having only one hand available. I see the surgeon next Tuesday (2 weeks post-op) so hope I'll get the OK to start therapy (actually, I'm a physical therapist, so it means I'll be seeing myself for therapy) And you were right about having more time on the forum. I've learned so much just cruising through the various forums. Amazing body of knowledge. I love it.

This morning my wife said, "did you know there is a leak under the sink"? So there I was crawling under the sink with one arm to check it out. It turned out to be from where I had disconnected the water heater after it decided to leak at every seam. My cap had a bit of a drip which for the moment will have to go into a cottage cheese container. It did however get me further into the planning stage.

I will also need a new water heater (I'll start a separate thread with photos of the ancient heater for this) but it made me think about future repairs after I've redone the plumbing. Have any of you plumbed ball valves or other shut off devices inline? Or, is the PEX soft enough to just clamp it shut while I do the work?

Thanks again,

Bob
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