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Old 04-13-2009, 02:28 PM   #1
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1969 31' Sovereign
Madison , Wisconsin
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Red face pex plumbing question

My 69 Sovereign has a couple of copper water pipes that appear to be split/cracked I am assuming from not draining properly in the winter
It seems like favorite product used to repair is the pex product.

Does anyone know the recommended size used to connect to the original plumbing?
Do they make an easy connector to connect the copper pipe to the pex tubing.
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:44 PM   #2
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I used 1/2 inch size all the way through except on the water pump had to down size to 3/8 I believe it looks great to red and blue no making mistakes.
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:45 PM   #3
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Sea Tec fitting and all other quick connect/disconnect plastic fitting are made size for size with all other plumbing pipe sizes.

These fittings just slip over the copper pipe and seal with a O ring. You can disconnect them without tools. Just cut out the bad section of copper and slip in the new.

If you were redoing the complete trailer Pex might be the way to go but for small repairs you can't beat Sea Tec.

It took me longer to type this than it will take you to replace you problem.
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:45 PM   #4
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use the search function here

In the blue bar above....search..... there was a good discussion here last year Good luck....the crimp tool is expensive if you go that way.
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrcrowley View Post
I used 1/2 inch size all the way through except on the water pump had to down size to 3/8 I believe it looks great to red and blue no making mistakes.
The big buck items are the fittings not the PEX pipe so make sure you don't over do it .The great thing about pex is it connect's to copper very well make sure you clean the connection though. good luck
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:51 PM   #6
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Well PEX is great all around as far as temps go it expands and unless it is -30 below I beleive it won't split look through my images I did whole thing pex, waiting on pump now and RV-500 water heater then plumbing will be done.
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Old 06-09-2009, 09:39 PM   #7
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Most of the discussion is regarding Pex used in water lines. I need to shorten the line that leads to my propane tanks and discovered that the pipe that needs to be shortened is made of PEX. I spoke to the local hardware store regarding the fitting to connect to the flex rubber hose that goes to the propane tank to the PEX. He informed me that he didn't think it was legal to use PEX for a propane line in this county and that He usually recommended "shark bite" or something similar for water lines but would not recommend it for propane. Said I should be using black pipe or copper. All I need to do is shorten the pipe about a foot so I can attach a bracket to the A Frame for a new hitch. I just don't know anything about PEX and hope someone has some experience with this. jc
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:15 PM   #8
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Pex for gas lines?

Pex is a no-no for gas lines! Most RV's used copper pipe with flare fittings, and then an approved rubber hose to connect to the tank regulator. Make sure that line is not copper. A simple flare coupling would shorten the pipe. Otherwise replace with rolled soft copper of the right size with flare fittings.
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:16 PM   #9
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Your hardware store is right. Do not use Pex for a gas line -- it should only be used for hot or cold water. You should replace your gas line with copper or black pipe -- copper will be easier to work with.
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyrivet View Post
Most of the discussion is regarding Pex used in water lines. I need to shorten the line that leads to my propane tanks and discovered that the pipe that needs to be shortened is made of PEX. I spoke to the local hardware store regarding the fitting to connect to the flex rubber hose that goes to the propane tank to the PEX. He informed me that he didn't think it was legal to use PEX for a propane line in this county and that He usually recommended "shark bite" or something similar for water lines but would not recommend it for propane. Said I should be using black pipe or copper. All I need to do is shorten the pipe about a foot so I can attach a bracket to the A Frame for a new hitch. I just don't know anything about PEX and hope someone has some experience with this. jc
rustyrivet...Here is some information from page 9 of the the SharkBite PEX Installation Guide:

"Do not use with natural gas, propane, fuel oil or any other fluid, chemical or product. SharkBite PEX tubing (non oxygen barrier) is for use with potable water only and is not approved or intended for any other use"
http://www.cashacme.com/_images/pdf_...EX_Install.pdf
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:01 PM   #11
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Thank you all. This is very confusing. I bought my Airstream Safari used (2005 model). I have never had to change any of the pipes; water or propane. I assumed, perhaps incorrectly, that the PEX pipe to the propane tank was factory installed by Airstream. Some on the forum say they have replaced their systems with pex and others say it is a definite no-no. The quote by 2daBeach, from the SharkBite manual sounds very definitive. I may need to run an entirely new copper propane line. I am going to contact Airstream and see if PEX was factory installed for propane on 2005 Safari's.jc
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:12 PM   #12
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I would like to see pic's of PEX being used a LP line!!
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Old 06-15-2009, 07:26 PM   #13
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With regards to the original post in the thread...

Perhaps by now the job is already complete, but PEX is for sure the way to go. I recently had EXACTLY the same issue as you. My "burst" was under the tub area on my '74 Overlander. So, I cut the copper in the trunk and under the mid-gaucho. I bent and yanked until all came out the back. I installed the new stuff with sharkbite connectors. Yeah, a bit pricey, but extremely simple and easy.

The main pitfall and not at all related to PEX: the copper tubing in my trailer, at least the line that blew, was thin-wall copper. It's the stuff that you buy in coils rather than straight sections. Anyway, it had expanded a few times due to freezing apparently and wouldn't fit anything that's was a connector for 1/2" line. I ended up going to my local plumbing supply store with a chunk of the offending copper, they explained the likely scenario, and then we went to their copper storage area and just checked until we found a section of 1/2" copper that snugly fit the expanded chunk. So, I had to sweat on a short section of the 1/2" copper to each of the wrong-sized thin wall copper and then I was able to get the sharkbites to bite and then everything went together like a really easy jigsaw puzzle.
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Old 06-15-2009, 07:39 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyrivet View Post
Thank you all. This is very confusing. I bought my Airstream Safari used (2005 model). I have never had to change any of the pipes; water or propane. I assumed, perhaps incorrectly, that the PEX pipe to the propane tank was factory installed by Airstream. Some on the forum say they have replaced their systems with pex and others say it is a definite no-no. The quote by 2daBeach, from the SharkBite manual sounds very definitive. I may need to run an entirely new copper propane line. I am going to contact Airstream and see if PEX was factory installed for propane on 2005 Safari's.jc
rustyrivit....There is no "This is very confusing". The folks responding to this thread that indicated that they used PEX were referring to its use in the presurized water system of their Airstream. NONE of the folks responding to this thread indicated that PEX was to be used on the propane system. Its very clear, PEX IS NOT TO BE USED ON THE PROPANE SYSTEM. I'm sorry to be this direct. I don't want you walking away from this forum and end up with an unsafe trailer.
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Old 06-15-2009, 08:16 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyrivet View Post
Thank you all. This is very confusing. I bought my Airstream Safari used (2005 model). I have never had to change any of the pipes; water or propane. I assumed, perhaps incorrectly, that the PEX pipe to the propane tank was factory installed by Airstream. Some on the forum say they have replaced their systems with pex and others say it is a definite no-no. The quote by 2daBeach, from the SharkBite manual sounds very definitive. I may need to run an entirely new copper propane line. I am going to contact Airstream and see if PEX was factory installed for propane on 2005 Safari's.jc
PEX is for water only. Propane should be copper or in some cases black iron pipe. Copper preferred and it is what AS uses from the factory. There are a some rubber hoses used at the regulator (from the tanks to the regulator).

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Old 06-17-2009, 02:41 PM   #16
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Just received a response to an e-mail that I sent to the Airstream website regarding the use of Pex on the LP line in my Safari. They indicated that they surround copper pipe with the flexible water pipe (PEX) to protect it from rocks and other road debris. The propane is carried through the copper pipe. The Pex is simply for protection. I'm not sure when they started doing this but am relieved that I don't need to replace my LP lines. Thanks for all the advice. I feel safer already. jc
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Old 06-18-2009, 01:40 PM   #17
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Lowe's now sells a competing product they've cleverly named 'Gator Bite' if you can't find the Shark Bite product in your area. It works the same and connects your pex to coppor, butyl, pvc, etc.
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Old 06-18-2009, 01:44 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by rustyrivet View Post
Just received a response to an e-mail that I sent to the Airstream website regarding the use of Pex on the LP line in my Safari. They indicated that they surround copper pipe with the flexible water pipe (PEX) to protect it from rocks and other road debris. The propane is carried through the copper pipe. The Pex is simply for protection. I'm not sure when they started doing this but am relieved that I don't need to replace my LP lines. Thanks for all the advice. I feel safer already. jc
That's actually a really good idea, as the pex would give it quite a bit of protection. I think I'll do that as I'm about to run some new propane lines on my old Ambassador.

I seem to remember Andy @ InlandRV saying something about using foam insulation for the same purpose, but I'm not sure because he may have just been yelling at someone to replace their !@#$ axles and I ignored everything else (Just kidding Andy... I need axles and will be ordering them soon!).
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Old 06-18-2009, 05:46 PM   #19
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Be careful after the repair to check the lines with air. If it holds 40lbs pressure for 10 mins you're good to go.....

What we found was after fixing the obvious and hitting it with air pressure we had many more leaks that were in impossable place to reach.

Good luck to you
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Old 12-02-2009, 04:40 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Be careful after the repair to check the lines with air. If it holds 40lbs pressure for 10 mins you're good to go.....

What we found was after fixing the obvious and hitting it with air pressure we had many more leaks that were in impossable place to reach.

Good luck to you
Im in the process of replacing copper w/ all pex.
A few questions ... how do I set up for a pressure test? and does the hot water heater require 18" of copper befor the pex? Thank You!!
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