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Old 04-14-2025, 10:11 AM   #1
Rivet Master
 
2021 30' Globetrotter
Oviedo , Florida
Join Date: Jun 2021
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Multiple Water Problems

2024 Airstream Flying Cloud Bunk.
I've seen bits and pieces of problems like I'm having. I thought it would be useful to start a new thread before I start digging in.

We've always had issues with our water system. Especially getting enough pressure thru the hot water lines for on-demand hot water to work when using the kitchen sink. This happens when hooked up to city water and when not connected using the fresh water tank and water pump. The shower and lavatory sink usually work ok, but the hot water to the kitchen sink is very low flow. Sometimes we can trick the hot water into going on by running the lavatory sink and the kitchen sink at the same time, and then once the water heater lights, we can turn off the lavatory sink. But now it seems to be much worse. And when we turn on the water pump (either on or off city water and with 30%+ water in the fresh water tank), the water pump will not shut off until we turn the switch.

Taking it to the dealer is a pain, even once we get an appointment since we're in Orlando and the dealer we bought it from is in Tampa. I know there's a dealer here in Orlando, but I was quite unimpressed with them.

I'm fairly handy and can certainly do jobs like replace a water pump if that's required, but I still don't understand why the water flow is so low. I have a new pressure regulator, but have not replaced it yet since it seems they've made the attachment almost impossible to get to unless you do it from the inside.

Looking for other possibilities. A kinked water line? Is there a tank accumulator and or bypass valve that may be the culprit?
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Old 04-15-2025, 09:26 AM   #2
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Maybe not much help at all, but if the pump keeps running the system isn't pressurizing, so there might be a leak. I'd address this problem first. This happened to me and one of the low point drains was open. You can also have a issue with the pump pressure switch. If you're getting water flowing back into the fresh tank then there's a valve in the pump that's defective. I replaced the pump or you can get a kit like this (before I figured out the low point drain problem). Also, clean out the pump trap.
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Old 04-15-2025, 09:32 AM   #3
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Remove the aerator from the kitchen sink and check that it isn't plugged.. Run the faucet with the aerator removed and see if you get enough flow. My aerator plugs up all the time from the scale in the water heater.


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Old 04-15-2025, 09:44 AM   #4
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Make sure the selector at the pump itself is not switched to winterize or stuck halfway. This will require removing the panel to gain access to the pump. The panel is to the left bottom by the cooktop/oven. Pulls off and in that rats nest of stuff is a clear hose, follow to the source and make sure it's adjusted correctly. Also make sure the low side water valves are both closed under the trailer and in that same compartment by the pump is another small valve, make sure that is closed. To tell if they are closed (both the low point drains by the axle and small one on the floor near the pump), there should be no water coming out under the trailer. If no water, then suspect the pump valve may be in winterize or 1/2 way between.

Look at page 8-16

https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...nual-Rev02.pdf

If none of those fix it, I'd start looking for water pooling up as there could be a leak. Even PEX fittings can work their way loose. I doubt the aerator or pump strainer are blocked on a 2024, but stranger things have happened.

Possible leak areas are under the rear bunk bed (location of the heater connections) and near the sinks. As an example, my pump on my 21' 30' bunk did turn off, but I found water coming from the wall where the shower and wall met. The PEX fitting on the shower got partially loose and water was puddling up on the floor.

...and dumb, but have to say it...make sure the water heater is fully off bypass and the sink valves are completely open...
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Old 04-15-2025, 10:43 AM   #5
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No dumb statements detected. When I got the trailer, a winterizing valve was open and every time I'd run the water it would shoot out the bottom. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sfranklin View Post
Make sure the selector at the pump itself is not switched to winterize or stuck halfway. This will require removing the panel to gain access to the pump. The panel is to the left bottom by the cooktop/oven. Pulls off and in that rats nest of stuff is a clear hose, follow to the source and make sure it's adjusted correctly. Also make sure the low side water valves are both closed under the trailer and in that same compartment by the pump is another small valve, make sure that is closed. To tell if they are closed (both the low point drains by the axle and small one on the floor near the pump), there should be no water coming out under the trailer. If no water, then suspect the pump valve may be in winterize or 1/2 way between.

Look at page 8-16

https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...nual-Rev02.pdf

If none of those fix it, I'd start looking for water pooling up as there could be a leak. Even PEX fittings can work their way loose. I doubt the aerator or pump strainer are blocked on a 2024, but stranger things have happened.

Possible leak areas are under the rear bunk bed (location of the heater connections) and near the sinks. As an example, my pump on my 21' 30' bunk did turn off, but I found water coming from the wall where the shower and wall met. The PEX fitting on the shower got partially loose and water was puddling up on the floor.

...and dumb, but have to say it...make sure the water heater is fully off bypass and the sink valves are completely open...
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Old 04-19-2025, 10:45 AM   #6
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Update: I finally had some time to work on the GT. As far as the water pump running on and on, it appears it was a combination of an empty fresh water tank (the gauge read 15%) and the system needing to be purged of air by opening the low point valves and then all the faucets. Good water pressure after that when using the pump. Then I hooked it up to city water and the pressure was dismal (no pump used), especially at the kitchen faucet. I already had a new pressure regulator but I recalled it was a real pain to replace. I looked again and realized it just screws right off. So I changed it out and now everything works great!

2 caveats: First, I don’t know if I did this on purpose or not, but the new regulator is a 65 psi model as opposed the the 55 psi original. I doubt this is a huge thing. If the system can’t tolerate a 10 psi difference, it must be really lame. The second issue is the new regulator did not come with a gasket that goes between the assembly and the skin of the trailer. The old one won’t come off so I’ll have to cut a new gasket or use silicone or form a gasket. Hopefully this is the end of my pressure problems.
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Old 04-19-2025, 11:01 AM   #7
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Glad you sorted that out, lessons for all of us. The only possible concern may be the new regulator's pressure, and the on-demand water heater. I have an Alde, and it does not like anything over 41PSI, at least per the manual.

My long term plan is to upgrade to a stainless steel Airkrafters nLet, and use my external regulator.
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Old 04-19-2025, 11:04 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jondrew55 View Post
2 caveats: First, I don’t know if I did this on purpose or not, but the new regulator is a 65 psi model as opposed the the 55 psi original.
I like living on the edge as much as the next guy, but if a plumbing connection fails it could be a huge disaster. Can you get a 55psi and see if the problem comes back?
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Old 04-19-2025, 11:09 AM   #9
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I share your concern, but that PEX and those household fixtures should handle 65PSI, that's my house pressure. The water heater, I don't know.
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Old 04-19-2025, 11:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BGClassic View Post
I share your concern, but that PEX and those household fixtures should handle 65PSI, that's my house pressure. The water heater, I don't know.
The water heater seemed to work fine. I actually don’t know what the pressure I was just using was. It’s important to note this plumbing system gets only occasional use. The 10 psi doesn’t concern me. The Aircrafters nLet idea is interesting. Use it with an external water pressure regulator. But they are out of stock and don’t seem to have a price listed.
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Old 04-19-2025, 12:13 PM   #11
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As for the inlet gasket, they never seem to supply one. I made mine with butyl tape and it's been working well for a year. I also look forward to Airkrafters inlet when it's available. As for the 65 psi PEX pipe and fittings are rated for more than that, I don't remember exactly what I think 150. RV parts who knows.
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Old 04-19-2025, 01:08 PM   #12
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I've been on the waiting list for the Airkrafters piece for months. I like it because it's not plastic.
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Old 06-04-2025, 12:01 AM   #13
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I overheard a little bird saying something about nLET and this Friday.. ��
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