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Old 04-08-2020, 03:58 PM   #1
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2019 30' Flying Cloud
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Low Flow and won't heat

Have read through several threads on Low Flow on the hot water side whether on city water or pump. Nothing so far, fixes my problem.

Had JC insert a Winterizing bypass ahead of the pump and have not touched unit since then. I asked them to redo the pex (upstream and downstream of the pump) because installing the bypass with existing pipe would have forced contortions and possible mis-threading. By installing new lengths of pipe the it should thread more easily. Wondering if they mis-piped something.

2019 30 FC Twin
2nd spring owning the trailer and second opening. Last year, no problems.

First sanitized system following the owners manual and newbie book process. Bleached water is still in the system and is the water moving through the system as I try to diagnose the problem. Also hooked up to city water and trying both.

Plugged the Hot water heater to get started.
Hooked up city water connection.
Turned on bathroom hot water
Turned on city water - eventually bathroom stopped spitting but hot water flow was very low. Cold flow was great.

Removed air from hot cold spickets in bath, kitchen, shower, outside shower.
Cold flow great at all outlets. Hot flow very slow.

Drained HW Tank. Redid the process with low pressure from city water hose. Another thread suggested high pressure might stir stuff up.

Same complete air purges process. Same problem

Turned HW Bypass to winterize position. Same problem. Seems to me to be a blockage of some sort.

Took a hammer and tapped on bypass and the other two metal pieces, downstream of bypass. Pic attached. If it was metal, I tapped it.

Emptied HW Tank, hooked up winterizing blow out attachment and set compressor to 50psi. Removed sink strainers in kitchen and bath and both shower heads. Blew out each line individually with HW bypass in winter position.
Closed all spickets, opened HW bypass and blew out HW Tank.

But the way, nothing nasty comes out of the tank whenever I empty it. It's clean water. There was something that has dried up in the cavity of the drain plug over the winter. When I tapped it out is was light brown and turned to dust. (So I guess there could be some buildup, but absolutely no grit comes out ever.

In the attached image, the prominent metal piece downstream of the bypass (when in winter position) and upstream of the red pipe, I'm guessing is the mixing valve. Based on another thread I unscrewed red fitting and the black supply fitting (to the bypass) to see if there was a washer problem. All seemed fine.

Other:

Fired up the heater after several flushes and refills, using propane, and the burners ran continuously for 15 minutes. But I can only get a barely noticable look warm trickle. Wierdly it seems like the lookwarm gets cold as the pump cycles.

When I leave the trailer for 20 minutes, (pump on) and return to turn on the bath HW spicket, it is fast, then slows. Pump does not cycle fast, like it does with cold water. Turned off the HW heater for fear of damaging.

The one thing that I have not done it load the sytem up with vinegar. Only two years old with only a two 54 gallon fills in those two years with good city water. Also sanitized last year between the two fills.
At such a dramatic difference between hot and cold flow. I don't think it is build up. But I could be wrong. Also the problem happens with both bypass on and off, city or pump.

I did not check the in line filter because that is ahead of the pump. JC put in a new basket in the filter in October when they added the bypass. Besides, it is upstream of the pump and the problem seems to be somewhere in the hot water leg.

Sorry for all the detail but having been through other threads all day long, I'm trying to keep from rehashing suggestions I have tried. But I'm all ears if you've got hints. This may be a stupid newbie thing that I've done wrong but I think I'm following the steps as directed.
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Old 04-08-2020, 04:11 PM   #2
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I'm not trying to be insulting by any means, but have made certain your water heater bypass is fully open?
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Old 04-08-2020, 04:13 PM   #3
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Or closed depending on how you look at it.
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Old 04-08-2020, 04:35 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Re-Pete View Post
I'm not trying to be insulting by any means, but have made certain your water heater bypass is fully open?
Don't worry about insults, that is the least of my worries. Yea, it's open. As a new trailer the damn thing is very difficult to open, particularly reaching through the little hole. So I took the cover off the dining room seat. I've turned in off and on a half dozen times today as I work through this.
It's actually moving more freely having been open and closed more today than since it was built.
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Old 04-08-2020, 04:49 PM   #5
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Sounds very similar to a issue I've just resolved...twice (don't ask).
Your HW mixing valve is bad or has a blocked junk screen.
You posted a picture of it (attached to your HW tank).
Amazon delivers these all day long. It is not a bad job to replace.
At this point I imagine your HW tank is flushed of sediment so you can skip that prior to restarting.
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Old 04-08-2020, 05:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too tall View Post
Sounds very similar to a issue I've just resolved...twice (don't ask).
Your HW mixing valve is bad or has a blocked junk screen.
You posted a picture of it (attached to your HW tank).
Amazon delivers these all day long. It is not a bad job to replace.
At this point I imagine your HW tank is flushed of sediment so you can skip that prior to restarting.
Thanks Too Tall: Can you be a bit more detailed for me. I'm a novice to this.

In the pick is the HW bypass. That piece I know. Downstream of it, seemingly going right into the tank is another metal piece.

Also, right in the foreground is another metal piece, with the red pipe immediately downstream.

Which of those is the mixing valve? Also, on Amazon what the key to getting the right one? I'll take a pic of the model etc. but if there's a secret search term that would help. My initial search on "mixing valve for dometic hot water heater' wasnt too productive.

Thanks
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Old 04-08-2020, 05:56 PM   #7
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Here you go
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 04-08-2020, 07:47 PM   #8
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I agree with too tall's assessment. I suspect the hot portion of the mixer is stopped up, either the screen or the valve. If you are handy with tools, take the mixer out and soak it in vinegar with a few teaspoons of salt or if you find it obviously plugged with scale use CLR or Lime Away. Then rinse it and blow in both inlets to make sure it is no longer plugged. Alternatively replace it. Good luck!
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Old 04-08-2020, 09:56 PM   #9
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If you do a search on "Mixer Valve" you will find numerous threads on the subject. I think pretty much all of us have gone through this. It would have been nice if Atwood had made the strainer easier to get to and to remove.
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Old 04-09-2020, 10:51 AM   #10
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Yes mixing valve. Remove clean or replace, or just remove and bypass,
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Old 04-09-2020, 12:43 PM   #11
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FYI, It's not safe to bypass or remove the mixing valve on these modern water heaters, the tank water is above 170 F which will nearly instantly give you a nasty burn, the mixing valve brings it down to a more safe but still scalding 130F (@ 10 seconds or so).
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Old 04-09-2020, 01:14 PM   #12
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Thanks everyone. I've got a plan

Ordered the replacement valve. Will put that in next week and do the cleaning process on the old one as a spare.

By the way, last night when putting tools away, the flow got significantly better.
Still not adequate but much better than it was all day yesterday. I had emptied all the bleached, sanitizing water through sinks and shower to the gray and black tank, emptied those tanks then refilled the fresh water tank.

All of a sudden the flow got better. I guess all of the agitating with the tank flushes, tapping, and constant running (bleached) water must have shaken things up. It's not good but usable, so I'll move forward with the replacement.

Thanks for the responses.
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Old 04-09-2020, 01:59 PM   #13
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bickp FWIIW I soaked my old one in hot vinegar and re-installed. Nuhguht. If you are going to try and unclog it and think it is good than consider using that as your replacement instead of using the new one. I did that with best of intentions, it was still not working thusly. Sorry if that sounds overly protective of your sanity.
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Old 04-22-2020, 11:21 AM   #14
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I was having the same issues. I removed the mixer valve and it made all the difference. The water is now as hot as you want with double the flow. It was an easy bypass.
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Old 04-22-2020, 12:35 PM   #15
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Water heater mixing valve

We too experienced your exact symptoms after we de-winterized in a campground with warm temps on the way to Florida from Ohio in late February. After a lot of work trying to purge lines and assure valves properly opened, I finally disassembled dinette seat and took off the mixing valve. Access to the inlet screen requires care to disassemble and reassemble, but the inlet screen from the tank was mostly blocked. Used lime away to dissolve and clear, but while that greatly improved the flow, the temp at outlets was still cold. Took off the mixing valve and rinsed with vinegar and inspected to see any issues but could find none. Still no heat to outlets. Tried to adjust the mixing valve and only had a small increase in water temperature. Determined the mixing valve was stuck and would not move substantially. Ended up using vice grips on the flexible cold water line into the mixing valve, which reduced the amount fo cold water into the mix valve. That worked and kept us in hot water on our trip thru the end of March when we returned home. Ohio is shut down still, so I will replace with a new one when we are able to get out.
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Old 04-22-2020, 04:29 PM   #16
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I soaked my mixing valve in CLR for a few hours and it worked fine afterward. The problem occurred just after de-winterizing. I suspect that in rapidly filling the water heater I may have stirred up debris and plugged the mixing valve.

I see the Atwood mixing valve is $120 and other mixers are ~30. In addition to being far cheaper they are also adjustable. Connections are laid out a bit differently so they may be difficult to install. But perhaps worth a try for the price difference.
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Old 04-23-2020, 05:50 AM   #17
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Warm water at best

Just had this same problem on my 2015 flying cloud. Tried everything nothing worked. Then removed the mixing valve. Soaked it in a bowl of CLR for an hour, rinsed and reinstalled. Works fine now. Turn the bypass valve, I drained the hot water tank.
One port on the mixing valve screws into threads on the tank. The other two lines connect to the water lines. I cleaned up the threads on the old one, put standard pipe thread compound on the threads and reinstalled. I did not use thread tape. Why buy a new one,? As I recall, they are pricey.
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Old 04-23-2020, 06:34 AM   #18
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I had to replace the mixing valve but was fortunate that it was covered by warranty.

Someone in my local unit of the AS Club recommended that I make sure the hot water tank was carefully rinsed when winterizing because when the water is turned on in the spring it will cause debris/scale to float and get into the valve. They recommended I purchase one of these (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Camco-RV...E&gclsrc=aw.ds), although I bought it at Camping World. I've been using it every year with success. I was amazed how much scale and other debris was rinsed out of the tank the first time I used it.

FWIW
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Old 04-24-2020, 06:13 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bibbs View Post
Yes mixing valve. Remove clean or replace, or just remove and bypass,

I think I might be the dope here, but I have never heard of a mixing valve in my RV. The pics make it appear to be near or part of the water heater. I hope someone can enlighten me. Is it a thermostatically (mechanical thermostat) controlled anti-scald device? I hope someone can help me understand this valve and get removed from dope status.
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Old 04-24-2020, 07:15 PM   #20
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It is attached to the hot water heater. Usually just needs removal and cleaning to restore hot water flow, not replacement.
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