Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-08-2020, 03:58 PM   #1
3 Rivet Member
 
2019 30' Flying Cloud
Onekama , Michigan
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 108
Low Flow and won't heat

Have read through several threads on Low Flow on the hot water side whether on city water or pump. Nothing so far, fixes my problem.

Had JC insert a Winterizing bypass ahead of the pump and have not touched unit since then. I asked them to redo the pex (upstream and downstream of the pump) because installing the bypass with existing pipe would have forced contortions and possible mis-threading. By installing new lengths of pipe the it should thread more easily. Wondering if they mis-piped something.

2019 30 FC Twin
2nd spring owning the trailer and second opening. Last year, no problems.

First sanitized system following the owners manual and newbie book process. Bleached water is still in the system and is the water moving through the system as I try to diagnose the problem. Also hooked up to city water and trying both.

Plugged the Hot water heater to get started.
Hooked up city water connection.
Turned on bathroom hot water
Turned on city water - eventually bathroom stopped spitting but hot water flow was very low. Cold flow was great.

Removed air from hot cold spickets in bath, kitchen, shower, outside shower.
Cold flow great at all outlets. Hot flow very slow.

Drained HW Tank. Redid the process with low pressure from city water hose. Another thread suggested high pressure might stir stuff up.

Same complete air purges process. Same problem

Turned HW Bypass to winterize position. Same problem. Seems to me to be a blockage of some sort.

Took a hammer and tapped on bypass and the other two metal pieces, downstream of bypass. Pic attached. If it was metal, I tapped it.

Emptied HW Tank, hooked up winterizing blow out attachment and set compressor to 50psi. Removed sink strainers in kitchen and bath and both shower heads. Blew out each line individually with HW bypass in winter position.
Closed all spickets, opened HW bypass and blew out HW Tank.

But the way, nothing nasty comes out of the tank whenever I empty it. It's clean water. There was something that has dried up in the cavity of the drain plug over the winter. When I tapped it out is was light brown and turned to dust. (So I guess there could be some buildup, but absolutely no grit comes out ever.

In the attached image, the prominent metal piece downstream of the bypass (when in winter position) and upstream of the red pipe, I'm guessing is the mixing valve. Based on another thread I unscrewed red fitting and the black supply fitting (to the bypass) to see if there was a washer problem. All seemed fine.

Other:

Fired up the heater after several flushes and refills, using propane, and the burners ran continuously for 15 minutes. But I can only get a barely noticable look warm trickle. Wierdly it seems like the lookwarm gets cold as the pump cycles.

When I leave the trailer for 20 minutes, (pump on) and return to turn on the bath HW spicket, it is fast, then slows. Pump does not cycle fast, like it does with cold water. Turned off the HW heater for fear of damaging.

The one thing that I have not done it load the sytem up with vinegar. Only two years old with only a two 54 gallon fills in those two years with good city water. Also sanitized last year between the two fills.
At such a dramatic difference between hot and cold flow. I don't think it is build up. But I could be wrong. Also the problem happens with both bypass on and off, city or pump.

I did not check the in line filter because that is ahead of the pump. JC put in a new basket in the filter in October when they added the bypass. Besides, it is upstream of the pump and the problem seems to be somewhere in the hot water leg.

Sorry for all the detail but having been through other threads all day long, I'm trying to keep from rehashing suggestions I have tried. But I'm all ears if you've got hints. This may be a stupid newbie thing that I've done wrong but I think I'm following the steps as directed.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2319.jpg
Views:	58
Size:	237.8 KB
ID:	365211  
bickp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2020, 04:11 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
Re-Pete's Avatar

 
1992 29' Excella
Virginia Beach , Virginia
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 747
I'm not trying to be insulting by any means, but have made certain your water heater bypass is fully open?
__________________
Pete
Virginia Beach, VA
1992 29' Excella Classic
TV 2006 Dodge Ram 2500
Mega Cab Diesel 4x4
Re-Pete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2020, 04:13 PM   #3
Rivet Master
 
Re-Pete's Avatar

 
1992 29' Excella
Virginia Beach , Virginia
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 747
Or closed depending on how you look at it.
__________________
Pete
Virginia Beach, VA
1992 29' Excella Classic
TV 2006 Dodge Ram 2500
Mega Cab Diesel 4x4
Re-Pete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2020, 04:35 PM   #4
3 Rivet Member
 
2019 30' Flying Cloud
Onekama , Michigan
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 108
Quote:
Originally Posted by Re-Pete View Post
I'm not trying to be insulting by any means, but have made certain your water heater bypass is fully open?
Don't worry about insults, that is the least of my worries. Yea, it's open. As a new trailer the damn thing is very difficult to open, particularly reaching through the little hole. So I took the cover off the dining room seat. I've turned in off and on a half dozen times today as I work through this.
It's actually moving more freely having been open and closed more today than since it was built.
bickp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2020, 04:49 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
Kensington , Maryland
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 554
Sounds very similar to a issue I've just resolved...twice (don't ask).
Your HW mixing valve is bad or has a blocked junk screen.
You posted a picture of it (attached to your HW tank).
Amazon delivers these all day long. It is not a bad job to replace.
At this point I imagine your HW tank is flushed of sediment so you can skip that prior to restarting.
__________________
2019 26' U FC RBT "Buck"
Subforum dedicated to Airstreams and riding bicycles:
https://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f62/
Too tall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2020, 05:06 PM   #6
3 Rivet Member
 
2019 30' Flying Cloud
Onekama , Michigan
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 108
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too tall View Post
Sounds very similar to a issue I've just resolved...twice (don't ask).
Your HW mixing valve is bad or has a blocked junk screen.
You posted a picture of it (attached to your HW tank).
Amazon delivers these all day long. It is not a bad job to replace.
At this point I imagine your HW tank is flushed of sediment so you can skip that prior to restarting.
Thanks Too Tall: Can you be a bit more detailed for me. I'm a novice to this.

In the pick is the HW bypass. That piece I know. Downstream of it, seemingly going right into the tank is another metal piece.

Also, right in the foreground is another metal piece, with the red pipe immediately downstream.

Which of those is the mixing valve? Also, on Amazon what the key to getting the right one? I'll take a pic of the model etc. but if there's a secret search term that would help. My initial search on "mixing valve for dometic hot water heater' wasnt too productive.

Thanks
bickp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2020, 05:56 PM   #7
Rivet Master
 
Kensington , Maryland
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 554
Here you go
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	mixingvalve.jpg
Views:	42
Size:	231.8 KB
ID:	365232  
__________________
2019 26' U FC RBT "Buck"
Subforum dedicated to Airstreams and riding bicycles:
https://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f62/
Too tall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2020, 07:47 PM   #8
Rivet Master
 
2018 25' International
Slidell , Louisiana
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 3,725
I agree with too tall's assessment. I suspect the hot portion of the mixer is stopped up, either the screen or the valve. If you are handy with tools, take the mixer out and soak it in vinegar with a few teaspoons of salt or if you find it obviously plugged with scale use CLR or Lime Away. Then rinse it and blow in both inlets to make sure it is no longer plugged. Alternatively replace it. Good luck!
BayouBiker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2020, 09:56 PM   #9
4 Rivet Member
 
2018 19' Flying Cloud
Newport , Washington
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 347
If you do a search on "Mixer Valve" you will find numerous threads on the subject. I think pretty much all of us have gone through this. It would have been nice if Atwood had made the strainer easier to get to and to remove.
__________________
Dale & Jane

2018 Flying Cloud 19
2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab Diesel
KelloggKid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2020, 10:51 AM   #10
Rivet Master
 
bibbs's Avatar
 
1977 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
1973 21' Globetrotter
1975 26' Argosy 26
Vista , California
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 589
Yes mixing valve. Remove clean or replace, or just remove and bypass,
bibbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2020, 12:43 PM   #11
Rivet Master
 
2018 25' International
Slidell , Louisiana
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 3,725
FYI, It's not safe to bypass or remove the mixing valve on these modern water heaters, the tank water is above 170 F which will nearly instantly give you a nasty burn, the mixing valve brings it down to a more safe but still scalding 130F (@ 10 seconds or so).
BayouBiker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2020, 01:14 PM   #12
3 Rivet Member
 
2019 30' Flying Cloud
Onekama , Michigan
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 108
Thanks everyone. I've got a plan

Ordered the replacement valve. Will put that in next week and do the cleaning process on the old one as a spare.

By the way, last night when putting tools away, the flow got significantly better.
Still not adequate but much better than it was all day yesterday. I had emptied all the bleached, sanitizing water through sinks and shower to the gray and black tank, emptied those tanks then refilled the fresh water tank.

All of a sudden the flow got better. I guess all of the agitating with the tank flushes, tapping, and constant running (bleached) water must have shaken things up. It's not good but usable, so I'll move forward with the replacement.

Thanks for the responses.
bickp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2020, 01:59 PM   #13
Rivet Master
 
Kensington , Maryland
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 554
bickp FWIIW I soaked my old one in hot vinegar and re-installed. Nuhguht. If you are going to try and unclog it and think it is good than consider using that as your replacement instead of using the new one. I did that with best of intentions, it was still not working thusly. Sorry if that sounds overly protective of your sanity.
__________________
2019 26' U FC RBT "Buck"
Subforum dedicated to Airstreams and riding bicycles:
https://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f62/
Too tall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2020, 11:21 AM   #14
2 Rivet Member
 
TKCamper's Avatar
 
2018 30' Flying Cloud
2020 30' Classic
Hubbard , Oregon
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 37
I was having the same issues. I removed the mixer valve and it made all the difference. The water is now as hot as you want with double the flow. It was an easy bypass.
TKCamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2020, 12:35 PM   #15
2 Rivet Member
 
2017 30' International
Middletown , Ohio
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 74
Water heater mixing valve

We too experienced your exact symptoms after we de-winterized in a campground with warm temps on the way to Florida from Ohio in late February. After a lot of work trying to purge lines and assure valves properly opened, I finally disassembled dinette seat and took off the mixing valve. Access to the inlet screen requires care to disassemble and reassemble, but the inlet screen from the tank was mostly blocked. Used lime away to dissolve and clear, but while that greatly improved the flow, the temp at outlets was still cold. Took off the mixing valve and rinsed with vinegar and inspected to see any issues but could find none. Still no heat to outlets. Tried to adjust the mixing valve and only had a small increase in water temperature. Determined the mixing valve was stuck and would not move substantially. Ended up using vice grips on the flexible cold water line into the mixing valve, which reduced the amount fo cold water into the mix valve. That worked and kept us in hot water on our trip thru the end of March when we returned home. Ohio is shut down still, so I will replace with a new one when we are able to get out.
RJKSr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2020, 04:29 PM   #16
Rivet Master
 
2013 Interstate Coach
Waterloo , Iowa
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,598
I soaked my mixing valve in CLR for a few hours and it worked fine afterward. The problem occurred just after de-winterizing. I suspect that in rapidly filling the water heater I may have stirred up debris and plugged the mixing valve.

I see the Atwood mixing valve is $120 and other mixers are ~30. In addition to being far cheaper they are also adjustable. Connections are laid out a bit differently so they may be difficult to install. But perhaps worth a try for the price difference.
Titus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2020, 05:50 AM   #17
1 Rivet Member
 
1999 19' Bambi
Morrison , Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 15
Warm water at best

Just had this same problem on my 2015 flying cloud. Tried everything nothing worked. Then removed the mixing valve. Soaked it in a bowl of CLR for an hour, rinsed and reinstalled. Works fine now. Turn the bypass valve, I drained the hot water tank.
One port on the mixing valve screws into threads on the tank. The other two lines connect to the water lines. I cleaned up the threads on the old one, put standard pipe thread compound on the threads and reinstalled. I did not use thread tape. Why buy a new one,? As I recall, they are pricey.
Rich
Pruckles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2020, 06:34 AM   #18
Site Team
 
Hans627's Avatar

 
2009 25' FB International
2018 27' Globetrotter
Tavares , Florida
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,654
I had to replace the mixing valve but was fortunate that it was covered by warranty.

Someone in my local unit of the AS Club recommended that I make sure the hot water tank was carefully rinsed when winterizing because when the water is turned on in the spring it will cause debris/scale to float and get into the valve. They recommended I purchase one of these (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Camco-RV...E&gclsrc=aw.ds), although I bought it at Camping World. I've been using it every year with success. I was amazed how much scale and other debris was rinsed out of the tank the first time I used it.

FWIW
Hans627 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2020, 06:13 PM   #19
2 Rivet Member
 
2002 34' Classic S/O
sault sainte marie , Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 91
Quote:
Originally Posted by bibbs View Post
Yes mixing valve. Remove clean or replace, or just remove and bypass,

I think I might be the dope here, but I have never heard of a mixing valve in my RV. The pics make it appear to be near or part of the water heater. I hope someone can enlighten me. Is it a thermostatically (mechanical thermostat) controlled anti-scald device? I hope someone can help me understand this valve and get removed from dope status.
bartzstream2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2020, 07:15 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
sheriff1's Avatar
 
2012 27' FB Eddie Bauer
Sparks , Nevada
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,116
It is attached to the hot water heater. Usually just needs removal and cleaning to restore hot water flow, not replacement.
sheriff1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Low Gas Pressure: Low stove flame, hot water heater won’t ignite. tjwoods1 LP Gas, Piping, Tanks & Regulators 16 10-19-2018 02:56 PM
Water won't flow into RV. Help ? MHH 1981 - 1983 Excella 4 08-29-2016 05:16 AM
Please Help! Magic Chef Countertop stove low flow blazeff13 LP Gas, Piping, Tanks & Regulators 4 08-26-2011 09:55 PM
Shur-Flow Won't Quit jdalrymple Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 2 09-15-2008 06:27 PM
city water won't flow..help! AirSpleen Fresh Water Systems 9 08-20-2006 05:39 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:35 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.