How to empty black water tank

[tnich1]

We have a 2010 Flying Cloud 30 and I can never seem to completely empty my black water tank, at the end of our last trip I ran the water flush for a long time until I got clear water and waited for the flow to stop. I spent extra time because in the past I always had more in the tank later when I opened the drain to my surprise. This happened again this week when I winterized the trailer, fortunately it was relatively clear water.
Does anyone have a tip for me to solve this problem or should I just assume it will always happen and poor in antifreeze during the winter?

[xrvr]

Tilt the trailer.

[Wingeezer]

I think it often happens just due to slight side to side differences between the last place you dumped the tank, and the next place where you take the drain cap off.

I just lived with that minor annoyance for years, but eventually bought a third slide valve that I use at the main combined outlet from black and grey water where the cap normally goes. I don't open that slide valve until I have the sewer hose hooked up at the new location.

I suppose it would always serve a valuable temporary purpose as well if one of the two main valves were to get stuck in the open position - though probably that is a rare thing, more likely you would experience a stuck valve that won't open because the handle has pulled out from the valve blade - then the real fun starts, especially if it is the black tank as I'm sure it would inevitably be with my luck!

Brian

[DaveFL]

Originally Posted by Wingeezer

bought a third slide valve that I use at the main combined outlet from black and grey water where the cap normally goes.

I suppose it would always serve a valuable temporary purpose as well if one of the two main valves were to get stuck in the open position - though probably that is a rare thing,

Brian

Not a rare thing, sticking valves or jammed slides happened often enough for me to install the extra gate at the end of the run. I have since semifixed the continuing problem of sticking valve by drilling a small hole, tapping a screw to close, on the endplate where the handle comes out. Also installed an elbow with clear plastic to make viewing the effluent while using the flush AS instlled in the black tank.

[Phoenix]

Quote: "I have since semifixed the continuing problem of sticking valve by drilling a small hole, tapping a screw to close, on the endplate where the handle comes out."

Could you please explain a little further? Also, a photo would be helpful.

--Thanks!

[splintair]

We flush til clrear water runs, drain as much as possible and then close valve and add antifreeze. Anti freeze will help lube and keep valve seal from drying out

[Wingeezer]

Originally Posted by DaveFL

Not a rare thing, sticking valves or jammed slides happened often enough for me to install the extra gate at the end of the run. I have since semifixed the continuing problem of sticking valve by drilling a small hole, tapping a screw to close, on the endplate where the handle comes out. Also installed an elbow with clear plastic to make viewing the effluent while using the flush AS instlled in the black tank.

Interesting - you mean that the blade is sticking in the open position? I would have expected the problem more likely to be that the handle pulls out of the blade leaving the blade in place and the tank closed & full of waste water that you cannot release.

I have often wondered what I would ever do if that happened - I have some ideas but don't know if they would work!

If you are drilling a hole for a screw in the same endplate where the handle comes out, what does that allow you to do?

Do you then insert a rod and lightly tap with a hammer directly on the end of the blade to free it and get it to close?

If so, couldn't you just do that by using a hammer directly on the end of the normal operating rod?

Maybe I misunderstand - and you are talking about a valve that is stuck closed and maybe the handle has pulled free from the blade making it impossible to dump teh tank?

It does make we wonder if what you describe, but drilling the hole on the sllde end plate at the OPPOSITE end of the slide, away from the operating rod/handle end could then allow you to insert a rod and tap open a stuck slide where the handle had pulled out of the blade leaving the blade stuck in place.

IE in order to be able to dump the tank and then work on replacing the defective valve.

I haven't looked closely enough at one of the valves to know if that might work.


Brian