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Old 06-20-2022, 04:19 PM   #1
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2006 30' Classic S/O
Stanton , Michigan
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Hotwater Tank Release Valve

I am sure this has been touched on before, but just not finding the help I need. I know it must be my search ability!
The hot water tank release valve is over releasing and putting out my pilot or gas feed. I am assuming something is wrong as I've not had this happen before. It would drip but it is suppose to from time to time.

Not much of a diy person on AS, it's a bit intimidating to me even though I am a diy in other areas of my life.

2006 Classic 30' Airstream.

Any guidance on this would be so appreciated. Only repair service available to us would be a trip to JC later this fall.


Thanks all.
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Old 06-20-2022, 11:05 PM   #2
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I had a similar problem, in my case the temperature switch which is attached to the side of the water heater had jarred loose, I clipped it back into place and have not had an issue since.
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Old 06-21-2022, 03:35 AM   #3
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Not sure if I understand exactly what the problem is, but I'll give a try...

Sounds like you're talking about the pressure relief valve leaking and sending water into places it shouldn't be, which is interfering with the flame. If this is the case, then the valve can be replaced.

You can get a replacement in any good hardware store or plumbing supply house. Much easier if you bring the old one in with you. You can also get one online, but then you'll have to make sure to get one with the exact dimensions and temp/pressure settings (they're printed on the ring under the lever.)

There is a special tool used to remove the old one which looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-10552-U...ps%2C74&sr=8-2

The water heater doesn't have a pilot light though, so not exactly sure if I've got your problem understood. There should be an ignitor sitting inside the flame tube, and it's controlled by a few easily replaceable parts. If the problem is that your ignitor isn't lighting the gas, then that would be different.
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Old 06-21-2022, 04:28 AM   #4
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Have you noticed that the water temp is higher than normal? Normal for a home water heater is in the 120 degree range but this RV heater runs hotter. Kitchen thermometer can get you a good idea of operating temp of heater.

Gary
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Old 06-21-2022, 04:57 AM   #5
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Lewes , Delaware
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Valve has 2 basic conditions for release (generally); 150 psi or 210 degrees. If the tank was not filled (and burped) correctly, then pressure can build excessively.

The tank should be filled with the pressure relief valve open UNTIL water comes out the valveóno more, and then the valve is closed.

You might want to try burping the tank before declaring failure.
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Old 06-21-2022, 09:35 AM   #6
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Talking Temperature Switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Dog View Post
I had a similar problem, in my case the temperature switch which is attached to the side of the water heater had jarred loose, I clipped it back into place and have not had an issue since.

Is this located outside w/flaming tube or inside w/how water tank. Not quite sure what I am looking for. Thanks.
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Old 06-21-2022, 10:29 AM   #7
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On the outside just above the gas solenoid valve, do you see some wires coning in and out, four spade terminal connections (two each on ECO and Tstat sensors) covered by a piece of black foam.

This pic shows after solenoid removal for a failed gas seal, leaking gas.
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Old 06-21-2022, 05:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
On the outside just above the gas solenoid valve, do you see some wires coning in and out, four spade terminal connections (two each on ECO and Tstat sensors) covered by a piece of black foam.

This pic shows after solenoid removal for a failed gas seal, leaking gas.
You seem to know what you are doing so another question. Is it hard to switch out wires? Mine don't look healthy. And is there an actual thermostat that could be bad? I'm thinking there are several items that may need replacing? I mean it is all original equipment. My heater has both gas and electrical capabilities.
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Old 06-21-2022, 06:01 PM   #9
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Silver Gypsy,

Me know what Iím doing? Debatable.

Can you post a pic of your wiring concern please.

There is lots of diagnostic info available but hereís a brief sequence of events on gas operation.

In order to fire the burner the thermal link ( encapsulated in plastic sleeve ) the TSTAT and ECO must all conduct the voltage from the control board to the gas solenoid to fire the burner.

The thermal link is in the plastic tube and in the path of a flame outside of the burner tube think major obstruction. It melts like a solder link a one time device to prevent uncontrolled fire.

Tstat opens at hot tank temp and closes when tank temp is cold enough.

The ECO Emergency Cut Off opens if tstat fails and before the dilithium crystals are ready to blow. Preventing big damage.

The operating temp of the tank might be interesting via kitchen thermometer and it is possible that the T&P temp & pressure relief valve has a leaking seal etc. aka kaput. R&R would be removing in the way pieces as necessary then best wrench access, bandaids and patience. Itís a plumber type job. And no pressure in system for replacement.

If youíd like I could look closer at mine tomorrow am and prescribe what size and type hammer to R&R the T&P would be my choice etc.

Gary
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Old 06-21-2022, 06:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
Silver Gypsy,

Me know what Iím doing? Debatable.

Can you post a pic of your wiring concern please.

There is lots of diagnostic info available but hereís a brief sequence of events on gas operation.

In order to fire the burner the thermal link ( encapsulated in plastic sleeve ) the TSTAT and ECO must all conduct the voltage from the control board to the gas solenoid to fire the burner.

The thermal link is in the plastic tube and in the path of a flame outside of the burner tube think major obstruction. It melts like a solder link a one time device to prevent uncontrolled fire.

Tstat opens at hot tank temp and closes when tank temp is cold enough.

The ECO Emergency Cut Off opens if tstat fails and before the dilithium crystals are ready to blow. Preventing big damage.

The operating temp of the tank might be interesting via kitchen thermometer and it is possible that the T&P temp & pressure relief valve has a leaking seal etc. aka kaput. R&R would be removing in the way pieces as necessary then best wrench access, bandaids and patience. Itís a plumber type job. And no pressure in system for replacement.

If youíd like I could look closer at mine tomorrow am and prescribe what size and type hammer to R&R the T&P would be my choice etc.

Gary
Thanks for your help. From your very precise explanation it sounds like it might be above my skill set. Plumbing is not my expertise at all & far from my Hubby's!

I have pics but not sure how to get them here. They are on my computer and the pic insert asks for URL. Sorry for being so lame.
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Old 06-22-2022, 04:49 AM   #11
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Might be above or within your skillset with a little what's up info.

I just took this pic of my unit. Looks like if you remove the exhaust system, (the metal box in the top left corner) just a couple of sheet metal screws you'll have very good access for a pipe wrench or Channel Lock type pliers. Just stay away from the connections to the control board etc. Or a trip to a good hardware store, find the plumbing guy and ask if they have the special wrench to R&R the T&P relief valve and this might go to easypeasyville.

If you haven't created a folder for PDF's of manuals go to https://myrvworks.com/manuals/ and search away and download. They also have a large library of YouTube videos for fixing many appliance issues and more. Granted not Airstream trailers but an Atwood furnace is an Atwood furnace etc.

Pics can be added as an attachment and I just open the pic in Paint and resize them smaller. When you (on a PC) open the Manage Attachments you will see the file size for various docs. Other programs exist to resize also.

And an Atwood doc detailing the Direct Spark Ignition DSI sequence of events to run the heater.
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Old 06-24-2022, 03:21 PM   #12
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The thermostats I was speaking of in a previous post, are behind this foam. Carefully peal back the foam and ensure both are properly seated.
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