hot water heater drain plug

[reelfastgreg]

so i just finished the winterizing. as a part of this, i pulled the hot water drain plug, nylon in a metal housing. it was bedded in plumbers putty which over time gets quite hard. so i cleaned things up and promptly cross threaded the plug. down to the local RV place where they just laughed and sold me a couple of replacements.

so i got it started, finger tight without too much trouble. but when i start to tighten it up, i get it in about half way and it stops. i am afraid to use too much wrench pressure for fear of breaking the plug.

got any suggestions??

[Kevin245]

I would dump the plastic plug and consider switching to a valve. We made the swap a few years ago and the process is much easier. See the linked post for details on our swap.

Hot Water Heater Plug Replacement - Airstream Forums

[Siegmann]

Maybe someone used a hardening pipe-thread compound (should have used the non-hardening variety) that is gumming up the threads. Try cleaning them with a piece of bent wire (dental picks work great for this) or carefully threading in and removing a properly sized brass fitting.

[6PackCharlie]

I have a brass plug on mine. Goes a couple of turns and then I have to use a wrench. About another 1/2 turn. I use Teflon tape on the plug. When I pressurize the water system, I check the plug and if it is dripping I give it another 1/4 turn. Has always worked for me.
Good luck.
Charles

[kscherzi]

I don't think the plastic plug needs to go in all the way to make a water tight fitting. Just tighten till it gets snug. I prefer to use Teflon tape instead of the putty as its much neater and aids with threading in.

[reelfastgreg]

Originally Posted by kscherzi

I don't think the plastic plug needs to go in all the way to make a water tight fitting. Just tighten till it gets snug. I prefer to use Teflon tape instead of the putty as its much neater and aids with threading in.

well i used a round wire brush on the threads and came up with nothing. then i used a sort of dental pick but i could do this again, i guess, again without seeing anything rejected.

the plug has a single turn of teflon tape and it easily goes in a bit more than half way. i have no idea how much torque this plastic plug can withstand so i am hesitant to apply too much pressure. anyone have a torque number to suggest??

i suspect that nothing is going to leak with the tape in place, but it would be nice and tidy to get the plug in all the way.

[nrgtrakr]

The T&P valve is brass, replace the plug with a brass valve.
Since the advent of teflon tape, I've never met a plumber who uses anything else on threads.

[woodfox45]

If you are winterizing why are you putting the plug back in ? You should by pass the hot water heater . I leave the plug out and push in a piece of window screen to keep the bugs out until spring .

[CRH]

If it doesn't leak, it is in tight enough and far enough.

[Siegmann]

Originally Posted by nrgtrakr

The T&P valve is brass, replace the plug with a brass valve.
Since the advent of teflon tape, I've never met a plumber who uses anything else on threads.

While searching for advice on a professional plumbers forum I learned that many like to apply teflon tape, then pipe thread compound over that. Never leaks, they say.

[aftermath]

Originally Posted by woodfox45

If you are winterizing why are you putting the plug back in ? You should by pass the hot water heater . I leave the plug out and push in a piece of window screen to keep the bugs out until spring .

1. to keep the threads from rusting

2. to keep bugs out (you are doing this)

3. to keep from losing the plug

[TG Twinkie]

I installed a boiler cock made of brass. The pressure relief valve is brass. Why not a brass boiler cock. Turn the handle and the job is done. No wrenches required.


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[kscherzi]

I've never put my plastic plug in all the way and don't think you should try. Just tighten till snug. Pipe threads are made so they get larger further in. Tighten and forget. It it leaks tighten next spring another quarter turn.

[idroba]

I find the plastic plug is so soft it seals well without even using any tape. I think that is why they use if from the Atwood factory. Just screw it in until it feels right and does not turn anymore easily.

I have used miles of teflon tape over the years, but find that a can of Rector Seal is sometimes easier and it always seals, I mean always, every time. So, if I have a difficult joint to make it is my first choice. And I have never found Rector Seal to harden over time. But again on the plastic drain plug, I use nothing at all.

[TG Twinkie]

X2 on Rector Seal.


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[nrgtrakr]

Originally Posted by Siegmann

While searching for advice on a professional plumbers forum I learned that many like to apply teflon tape, then pipe thread compound over that. Never leaks, they say.

Interesting ...
I'm a stationary engineer - plumbing for water, steam, combustables (liquid and gas), chemicals. There are actually two versions of white teflon tape, the thin one is junk, the thicker one preferred, and the plumbers liked 3 wraps of teflon tape for new pipe and fittings, 5-7 for old, and never any goop of any sort. I followed that and never had any leaks no matter what was getting plumbed. The old stuff would harden up so firm it took a torch or heat to break it loose.

[ChuckFeldt]

My plastic plug was cross threaded from the factory. I went to Home Depot purchase a 1/2" mpt (male pipe thread) brass plug and Teflon tape. Screw in finger tight, then tighten 1/4-3/4 turn more. Tough under the regulator tube. Do not over tighten, mpt are taper threads, can strip the aluminum tank threads or crack the boss. Good luck. I have salvaged a sheared plug by using a saw blade to carefully cut the remaining plastic ring into segments and carefully break a segment out releasing tension allowing me to turn out the rest with needle nose pliers.

[Will_Brule]

I have the same model as you do. Wonder where the putty came from? Mine never had any and I don't use any. I tighten mine about 1/4 turn after finger tight. Never leaks. If you replace it with a metal plug or valve, you may cause problems because of dissimilar metals. Speaking with a tech at Jackson Center, he told me that the nylon plug is also an extra safety blowout feature in case the pressure relief valve malfunctions. Again, I have never had a problem with mine.

[TopGeorge]

I second what crh said. Plus, Teflon tape is not required if using a nylon plug. i drain the water heater (after disconnecting the water supply) everytime I break camp. It snugs up at half way in, finger tight. Never a leak. It's the original plug, its eight years old and going strong, probably because its never had a wrench or pliers, tape or any kind of goop used on it.

[Kamiak]

In my experience, the nylon plugs tended to deflect too easily when trying to remove them...perhaps I put them in too tightly, dunno, and the awkward location of the plug vis-a-vis other water heater parts accentuates the problem. When one broke off inside, I decided something better was needed, and started using a 1/2" pvc plug, along with a little teflon tape, along with a little "Magic Lube", or "Leslies Pool & Spa Lube" on the threads. Those products are non-hardening, teflon-impregnated silicone gel. I use it on all "O"-rings too. It makes for an easy installation and removal, and there's no need to ratchet it down very far. I realize that pvc pipe is not made for hot water, but I've never been able to locate cpvc 1/2" plugs. Ultimately the plug will deteriorate, but that takes many years. I've been using the same one for several years, but you could change it annually if you're concerned, all for less than a dollar, and they're widely available.